varaderoguy

Was the car scrabbling for traction at all? You will get traction control lights and your speedo etc will go a bit bonkers. If its a 2 wheel drive VRS, they can have issues with putting down the power sometimes (depending on the road surface). Tyres are everything with those cars. Not a massive issue, but you just have to be mindful of how you apply power to the wheels. The VRS diesels are 190bhp and whilst that isn't massive compared to the petrol versions (typically 230-250bhp and gets very exciting in the wet and loose stuff), its the torque you need to watch out for. Do you have a virtual dash or a standard dashboard?

I've seen this a couple of times before. I know this sounds like a strange fix, but It's worth making sure the battery capacity is good. Problematic batteries which are failing will trigger this issue. Get a CCA test done on your car battery and if it's 20% below capacity, then it's dying and needs replacing (and coding in)

The only way to get a zero or close to zero reading is to get the DPF professionally flushed out and then reset the counter. I'm also not a fan of low ash oil. Good regular oil changes will keep the car running as it should do and an occasional run of some super diesel through the vehicle and long fast runs will keep the EGR and DPF happy.

Keep a bottle of G12evo with you and make sure you aren't getting any leaks. It's worth getting yourself an ODBEleven dongle as you can get the car to perform the coolant purging process yourself.

Its a possibility that the AVRCP protocol is struggling here a little. I would personally do two things: 1) Make sure your MIB system is running on the latest available firmware (other postings can help you with that) 2) Lock down your AVRCP version to something like 1.3 or 1.4 - you have to enable this in Developer mode on your Android handset (latest is version 1.6).

Hello Tanel, I had a look at your video. All I'm hearing is the plastic and it might be that the steering wheel is slightly rubbing against the lower part of the plastics in the dash and causing a slight click. Failing that; get the car on the ramp and have a listen to the steering rack (possibly with a stethoscope). It might be that the rack itself is possibly making a slight noise - usually a sign of wear if nothing else. I can definately understand why you think its the clock spring; when they go, they make a more defined click.

Only in so much that a failing open thermostat will make the engine run cooler.

That would be going between SOP2.x and SOP4.x and this is not approved as an upgrade path (although others here will say you can, its not an approved path of upgrade)

You might want to give us your background / your car / what your MIB system is etc etc. What you describe could be numerous things.

Yes, that would be an option, although I haven't experienced their service before.

You might have more success in the Karoq section of the forum. Requesting this posting be moved over there... There is also a section called Audio, Electronics and Security that would probably assist you; there are also many postings on how to update your Amunsden/Columbus system as necessary. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/7-audio-electronics-and-security/

P2002 - its probably going to be the G450 pressure sensor in that case. Its easy to access and easy to replace. Make sure you get the latest variant of the sensor 076906051B. If that doesn't fix it, then I suggest an engine oil flush (to clear out any debris) and if that still doesn't fix it, then you will probably need to get the DPF cleaned out professionally. I'm not from Liverpool area, but these guys look reasonable: https://srcautomotive.co.uk/ - they are VAG specialists and also specialise in DPF issues.

oohh - super basic spec - respect! Our resident expert @pab567 can advise you on what you will need, although with a Swing system, it kind of depends on wiring you have to support any better systems. Face Lifted cars did have a Swing system with handled Android Auto / Apple Carplay which might be an easy Plug and Play option.

Yes, your information button won't do anything until you take out the "free" five year subscription. Every car (whether it gets used or not) gets that subscription. It was a function that was built into some FL cars that had it as a spec (it was a rare spec). I don't currently have a car with that functionality, but I think that Skoda will support the service for the forseable future, so its there if you need it.... As for not trusting yourself etc; I couldn't possibly comment :-) but you canny do anything stupid. The UI (user interface) is fairly simple to understand and you won't accidently remotely pocket unlock the car or anything stupid like that.

Yes, I am aware of the gear position sensor failure. It is a realtively common problem and can be resolved realtively easily.

Honestly - I don't suggest you do it - unless you want your image to be a slammed car....dodgy LED lights wired onto the battery and a loud exhaust. Its not cool. Muffler deletes will get you pulled over and will definitely fail an MOT.

You need to take out a subscription for the Skoda Connect service if you have a in-build SIM and the SOS/Information button in the car and that can be purchased through your MySkoda portal (use a regular computer to access that service). Unfortuntely, you get the remote locking and monitoring as part of that functionality. It does kind of work and I can assure you that it doesn't drain the battery.

That's all you need to know about Halfords. I would echo that, but also warn you that Viofo don't shutdown properly like a NextBase camera. This resulted in a Terminal 15 staying high error message due to the current draw when the car was switched off. I disconnected all that gubbins and the error went away.

Yes, instant failure if there are any warning lights on the dashboard. What is the error message and have you had a scan done on the car yet (ODBEleven or VCDS)?

Its hot; you wouldn't want it to go any higher. I would remove the windguard when it get warmer (above 8-10C)

No - G13 was still present until 2017/2018. It was removed from sale as it wasn't environmentally friendly, and eventually replaced by G12evo (which if you go to VAG, they will sell you G12ebvo as a part replacement for G13 coolant)

Okay - applogies - I did find your brief reference to having a Wabasto heater; it wasn't standard in your year, hence why I asked or suggested it. I'm not entirely sure why you wouldn't use the preheating system if its already installed in your car - its consumption is fairly minimal and why you wouldn't have the frost protection. Anyhow; this that aside; if the ambiant temperture is constantly low, you might want to see if you can find a themostat that opens at a lower temperature, but that is quite an extreme solution and you should need to replace it for the summer (when it warmer).

Coolant should be changed every five years - especially if you have removed the Silica teabag. I know that some 2015 cars were odd with having to have G13, but basically G12Evo will work up/down from G12-> G13 so you should be good to just use that setup.

I suggest that if you want your TDI to warm up quicker, you can go down one of two routes: 1) Get a Wabesto preheater installed. If you retrofit a genuine install, you can get the preheater to be timed and kick in 30 mins before you head off. 2) Have a look at Kopachek / SuperSkoda - https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/octavia-iii/octavia-iii-winter-grille-cover-in-great-oem-design-ki-r-glossy-black - this will fit the front of your car, but replacing the front grill is an absolute ars* of a job to do because getting out the existing grill is almost nye-on impossible without breaking the lugs of the grill. That option would work if you have two bonnets - a summer one and a winter one.

I think you need to take your car to a VAG specialist. Driving it until it gets worse when there is already a mechanical noise is not good. So - suspension components were replaced. Are they genuine OEM hardware or third party?