varaderoguy

The car is telling you that it is unable to complete locking and set the security. We really need a scan from ODBEleven or VCDS for us to provide any further details.

Where did you go to for that price? Have you phoned around other places to check out their pricing too? Don't just take the first price given to you...

Don't touch the fuses (unless one has blown - and in that case, some proper fault-finding needs to done). We need a scan on your car via ODBEleven or VCDS to find out where the real issue lies. Don't touch the fuses as that will cause more problem than fix.

The flap motors do also fail as well and it is probably to get the motor changed out. However, I still don't think the heater matrix itself has failed. By all means do a coolant flush to make sure there is no dirt in the matrix itself. One thing we are missing though - is a scan via ODBEleven or VCDS to confirm whether the motor flaps have failed or not.

ebay is probably not your friend in this instant. Try somewhere like National Tyres or Kwik Fit. You should have more luck there.

What happened with the current matrix? If its blowing cold, its usually a problem with the Silica teabag in the coolant header bottle having split. This will have put all the silica into the heater matrix and more worryingly potentially block up the coolant channels in the engine block. If this is the case, then you need to flush out the cooling system ASAP. You only need to replace the heat exhange matrix in the cabin if its leaking.

You should be able to go into most exhaust centres across the UK. The car is modern enough for this. If you want a genuine Skoda/VAG product, then yes, more expensive. Most exhaust centres use patented parts.

We really need a proper scan done of the car first. Good news....I'm just down the road just across the border if you want to make use of my VCDS/ODBEleven setup. I'll shout you a coffee if needed.

VRS's are always harsher on their tyres. Its down to the way the car is setup. However, I would recommend getting a 4 wheel alignment done. Most places only do two wheel alignment and that's a problem. Octavia's (especially the ones with independant rear sub-frame) - need the rear aligning. It makes a world of difference.

Sounds fine to me.....am I missing something here.

Duplicate posting - getting this removed.

Damn auto-correct - you are right of course.

Couple of things to check: 1) Sensors aren't too dirty. If they are, they will give false readings. 2) If the battery voltage is flucuating, it will cause the reversing sensors to fail. I've had this issue on three Octavia's. Get your battery CCA tested; if its below 20% of the total capacity, you should consider replacing the battery.

Hello @jam1. In your case, servicing is done on a time based process. It works out as either roughly 8000-10000 miles or 365 days - whichever occurs first. Inspection / Oil service is essentially the same these days - they only inspect the chassis to make sure that no rot has set in, otherwise its an oil/filter. For a basic service, I would expect a physical inspection of the car up on the ramp and an oil/filter change. Make sure whoever services your car uses good quality 0W30 oil VW504 Longlife 3. I personally do a oil/filter/air filter/cabin air filter for my more major service. Typically, things to consider: 1) Brake Fluid every 3-4 years or when the hygroscopic test fails when you have a high moisure level. 2) Remove the silicon bag in the header tank (if you have one) or replace the coolant header tank if its double walled. 3) Air Conditioning service every 2 years. Suggest you put something like an aircon cleaner through the car every 10-12 months and replace the cabin air filter every 2 years as well - sooner if there is mould/mildue around. 4) Remove the wheel arch liners and thoroughly clean the strut tops and behind the sponge of doom (between the wheel arch and door); they can rust from the inside out on the chassis rail if not cleaned. 5) Personally recommend getting the brakes service / cleaned as they can stick. On that subject, make sure you progressively use the brakes. Emergency brake once a week ideally. 6) Turbo vanes can stick if you aren't progresive in your driving. Take the car on the down the M74 for a trip and use plenty of right foot! A tank of Super Unleaded helps with keeping the car running well (I use Shell V-Power) So - go find a good independant. I can recommend Autohaus over in Edinburgh as they are good at what they need to do. There are other good independant VAG specialists over in Glasgow who I'm sure can help (MB Jarvie as one example).

Hard luck....Its a problem for anybody with a Right Hand Drive Skoda, but the Octavia MK3 has a definate issue there. I think that what happens is that the drivers door lock can be easily seized by lack of use/lubrication. Some WD40 in the lock would have probably brought it around. As above, get in through the drivers door, plug in a power pack into the 12V socket, unlock the doors, and then open up the bonnet of the car to gain access to the battery. Hope you got it sorted.

Usually a sign that the wiper motor is struggling. Generally (and in normal operation), the rear wiper is intermittent (about once every 5-10 seconds). However, its is only going once, and occassionally sticking is one position, then its a wiper motor failing (I think it means that the bushings are dry and are getting tight and the motor stalls). You can take the motor apart, apply lots of grease to the bearings etc. That would recover operation.

Thats fantastic to know - it was missing in action when they built my L&K (parts shortage etc).

G13 was replaced by G12evo by VAG. However, G13 standard is compliant with G12evo.

Couple of things to unpack here: 1) When you say the MIB2 system is dead, what happens or what doesn't happen. Can you give us more detail. 2) To reset the MIB2 system, press and hold the POWER button for over 8 secs and it should reset. 3) Your coolant is showing low. You need some G12evo in there and top it up to maximum. 4) Don't remove the battery connections. That's really extreme and will cause you more problems with random errors occuring. Can you show us the output from your VCDS please?

okay - this is the wrong forum for this post. It needs to go to the MK4 Octavia section.

The other option is to get a 16G card for your Amunsden system, then you can download all the maps and not have to bother with zones etc.

This is not a battery voltage issue - more a battery capacity problem. Its odd that when battery voltages start flucuating, you notice that odd things start happening with the reversing sensors. You need to do a CCA battery test on your car battery (engine off). Anything less than 20% of the CCA capacity and it need replacing. I had to replace two batterys on our Octavias. One is a MY19 and the other is a MY15. Getting 5 years from a battery is about right.

You need to remove the plastic trim inside the tailgate.

Two get two warnings with the failing water pump. You've just had the first one. Check the water pump and see if its leaking or wheeping. You will get one more fluation usually before the pump grenades itself and the car overheats. Time for a new waterpump (and probably a cambelt if you can)

That will be because the t-piece that splits the washer feed to the rear window and the reversing camera has split or has come off.