varaderoguy

In all honesty its hard to really say, but it does look like fresh transmission fluid. If that's the case, then the first and the second guy has mislead you. It needs to be properly fixed. If it has been properly fixed, some brake fluid sprayed on to get off all the old leaking residue would have lifted off the leaking fluid. My concern is that the pressure needed for the mechatronic system to operated properly will be reducing and ultimately you will loose transmission if you continue to loose DSG gearbox oil.

Depending on the car, spec and year you might have the speed limiter enabled for cruise control which would slow you down and stop you going any faster. If it's a fuel supply problem, then it will throw a code. Can you get a scan by by (genuine VCDS) or ODBeleven please and see if there is a fuel supply problem or other issue. PS... don't use E10 on the 1.2tsi engines. It's gives massive performance drops (IMHO and experience) plus it rots everything in sight.

Arh...the curse of the Bi-xenon's. I had enormous problems with the these headlights not pointing the correct direction and the beam alignment seeming to be out when driving. Only way around it was to "drive quicker" as the beam is meant to focus on your steering direction but never seems to quite get it right. You can alternatively switch off the beam direction system by manually selecting main beam and NOT auto.

Hello all, Life has been a bit up/down recently and our circumstances changed, so a replacement car was purchased for our previous 2020 Golf MK7.5. My husband Chris decided that he wanted another MK3 Octavia, so we hit the classifieds and eventually found what looked like a clean MK3 2015 Elegance TDI 2.0 4x4. It's in Blue Pacific (quite a rare colour) and has covered 118000 miles (that's the TDI just worn in by my books). It's been given the name Blu. I won't go into the purchasing experience...let's just say that a lot of these MK3's are now in the backstreet sellers lots and these sellers are quite an unscrupulous bunch. This one was located in Leeds, so we took a 4hr trip to go see it. It's a good car....tyres a little worn, but everything else is rock solid. Having stood in the backstreets of northern Leeds for many weeks/months, it then did a 200 mile trip back home and didn't miss a beat. My husband is thrilled to bits with it as it will be used as a project car as well as a reliable everyday workhorse. We will do the servicing on it, get new rubber on it and gradually improve it over the coming months / years. So far.... we've had to change out the battery - the factory OE battery having died at 53% capacity. The only problem I've got (all other fault cleared post battery change) is the High Beam Assist. Described at We have the dreaded b1168f2 fault - Control Module Faulty. Getting to it is the easy part (behind the mirror) but it's the module itself. Seems it's quite a known weakness/failure point on this generation of VAG cars (i.e.similar faults exist on Golf's, Leon's and Passats of this age). Lots of talk of the replacement modules (even brand new ones from Skoda) going faulty, so there is a problem with the electronics of the module. As I hate running cars with fault codes in them, I would really value everyone's views on how to fix this module (for good) and ideally a fix of the existing module would be fabulous.

Okay - I can probably help here. Engine P060C00 - this is not good at all. Basically, it means the ECU is extremely unhappy and is likely to fail. Usual recommendations are: replace the module. Sound System fault: Subwoofer....do you have a Canton system at all or not - and is your sub is the dashboard or in the boot (or somewhere else?). Electrically, its open circuit, so either the speaker needs checking (check the internal impedance of the speaker) or its a wiring fault. Gateway fault: This is caused probably by a webcam or third party accessory drawing too much current from the system. If its a cheap dashcam, please disconnect and replace it with something better (like OE spec GW322/422/522 nextbase system)

Probably the matrix needs taking apart....not an easy job, but not impossible either.

Not switches - motor flaps - part of the heater matrix box. I think there are two flaps - one in the fresh air intake and one that redirects airflow around the car. One of those has probably gone open-circuit and has ceased (although it should show up a code).

You are all good. The gearbox is intellegent to know that if you are on the brake - in D - it disengages the clutch enough not to drive forward. Modern DSG / auto-gearboxes are fine like that. If it makes you feel any better, try putting the car in neutral when you have your foot on the brake.

Its either going to be a blocked air intake (located in the windscreen valance) or the flap motor that switches between fresh air / recirculation air has failed (and its permanently on recirculation mode)

Yes, a cetane improver helps or super diesel.

P2563 is the code that gets thrown up if the turbo-vanes get stuck due to excessive carbon build up. I think you've got the Euro 5 engined car - and that its had its VW EA189 recall? Anyhow, a common misnoma - VAG engines like to be exercised. The turbo vanes become seized if the car is not worked hard enough. Its a TDI and TSI thing. Try manually working the turbo vanes by hand, then run a tank of super diesel through it and take the car on a long/fast/hard run - high revs - give it the BEANS - and do this as a regular thing. Keeps the engine working well.

I think I answered you in another posting.

Stupid question - how do you drive the car? VAG cars need plenty of right foot action, otherwise they start exhibiting performance issues like yours. Yes, crank pos.sensors do and can fail. I hope that a genuine OEM part was fitted. Check the oil level and I suggest a spirited drive - away from the bright lights of Soton into the New Forest (keeping to the speed limit of course) and take the car for a long/fast run. If its a manual, keep the car in a lower gear, keeps the revs up. You need a good fast run - consider a 80/100 mile round trip. Accelerate HARD - do several of those....work the turbo actuator. If you are feeling flush, a tank of Super Diesel would help out - get the cetane into the car and help keep the engine at best performance.

Yes Skoda / VW are notorious at not updating their MIB systems. They will do it, but charge you to do it. If you have a 2018 car, you vehicle will have the face lift MIB 2.5 system. Either Bolaro (basic - no sat nav), Amunsden (mid-spec - most common - with sat nav) or if posh, Columbus - larger screen - capacitive buttons down one side only. Take a photo of the system - the screen - we can usually determine the device from there. Once you have that, then its a case of updating the firmware to the latest. There are numerous different threads (both in this area - Octavia MK3 - as well as the section called Audio, Electronics and Security. You probably need to be on version 0480 (assuming a SOP4.x version) for Bolaro and Amunsden or P4526 for your Columbus system (correct at the time of writing - Nov 2024). Updated map info can be found in Audio, Electronics and Security section - usually pinned to the top of the group thread or you can update the maps via the Skoda Update Portal - you just need your car's VIN. https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ In terms of what you are running, start up the MIB system (car radio), wait for about 30 secs, press and hold the MENU button and wait until you get to the hidden menu. Press Software/versions and show photograph the subsequent information.

Absolutely none at all. I think we were talking about injectors and low fuel pressure. OP stated that copper washers were replaced on 2 of 4 cylinders. I am trying to state that using non-genuine parts (associated with thinking like injectors) means there is an extra gamble and we haven't ascertained this fact yet. As we don't yet have a full-scan, a lot of these are purely suggestions.

Depending on how well the engine has been maintained, you might want to get the existing engine checked. If its just the case the piston rings are worn (IMHO - usually caused by poor running in when new), then it would be cheaper to get new pistons rings fitted. However, there are caveats in all this. If you have cylinder wall scoring, then other than getting the engine lapped and oversized pistons installed, it would be cheaper for a second hand engine. Its also worth checking the crank and making sure all the journals are good too (if considering rebuilding the existing block).

I genuinely hope these were proper VAG parts (as non-genuine parts could potentially cause you problems). You can get devices to test the injectors and measure the pressure as well. So, if that's not the issue, then its going to be fuel pump or fuel regulator. At your mileage, I would also check the fuel lines, make sure they aren't rusted or leaking (again, would cause low pressure issues).

We really need a proper VCDS or ODBeleven scan of the car. Low fuel pressure could be a multitude of issues. Not likely to be injectors although depending on the mileage (120k miles plus) they should be done. Replace with OEM parts. Check the fuel pressure on VCDS/ODBeleven first and see if it's a pump or pressure regulator issue.

If you are going with a Skoda used warranty, they will wash their hands of the issue quicker than knife through butter if something goes wrong. However, with that said and done, it all depends on the mileage of the car you are looking at. Its also worth chatting with the servicing dealers and see if the work was done (check job cards etc) as it might have not been mentioned in the service invoice.

I would suggest there might be interference that is stopping the KESSY system from working properly. They operate in the 120 to 135 KHz frequency band and if all three stop working, then its going to be interference. Try parking your car in a slightly difference location and see if the problem still exists. Then try and figure out the source of the interference. You can look up the guide to frequency interference at OFCOM's website: https://static.ofcom.org.uk/static/spectrum/fat.html

Message to the new owner of this car. Well done on your new 188,000 mile purchase at just under £2000. I hope that you enjoy your new purchase and I hope you will share the adventures of this high mileage hero with us here on Briskoda!

If you had a non-FL (2013-2016) car, you can code out auto-stop-start. I know that this mod was not available on FL (2017-2020) cars though.....

I think you are referring to the trick front diff that some VRS245 and the VRS Cup Challenge cars have. They should be serviced every 20k-30k miles if I remember correctly. Its mainly to cope with the higher power output and also to deal with any torque steer that you might experience when hooning it down the road. I've never heard any issues with these, but obviously get it serviced. Its not an expensive service item.

First thing I would say is - don't use a generic scanner. You need more specialist kit. Try getting an ODBEleven dongle (https://obdeleven.com/products) That's never going to help. If the generic scanner is to be believed, this temperature sensor has gone Open Circuit (they do fail).