varaderoguy

oooh - this one possibly?? https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202101198135829?make=SKODA&body-type=Estate&aggregatedTrim=Laurin %26 Klement&model=SUPERB&radius=1500&include-delivery-option=on&sort=price-desc&postcode=td145js&fuel-type=Diesel&advertising-location=at_cars&price-to=20000&onesearchad=New&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=Used&page=1&modal=photos

@SashaGrace - just being nosy here, but did I understand rightly that you were having issues with getting your lovely Dragon Green Superb? FYI - I had a look at this: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202012317523255?onesearchad=Used&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=New&body-type=Estate&fuel-type=Diesel&radius=1501&postcode=td145js&drivetrain=Four Wheel Drive&sort=relevance&make=SKODA&advertising-location=at_cars&model=SUPERB&transmission=Automatic&include-delivery-option=on&page=1&modal=photos It is a 2020 4x4 L&K with most of the bells/whisles on it - maybe not, but wanted to add it into the mix. They had it advertised it for £28k last week.

It should be 4 x 10w channels of audio. Canton systems have their own sound output.

I found that out when I had a courtesy car. The MIB3 system is NOT good. It will eventually be improved but it is a huge step back from the MIB2 and MIB2.5 system of the MK3's

nasty nibbly creatures. I can see a part no: 50508103509c on the label attached to the cable - but that comes back as a window switch - maybe we are missing part of that part number from the label.

It is recommended you let the car continue when it does its regen; a fast blast (2800rpm at a constant 20 or so miles will give you a nice clean DPF)....just drive normally, but one gear lower.

Regen's happen roughly every tank-full of fuel. High-idling at 1000 rpm (accompnied by fans and a burning smell from the car) means regen is happening. Falling back to 780-800rpm means standard idle. Unlike the TSI engines, TDI engines (Euro 6) don't generally utilise higher revs at cold - they might initially sound lumpy for the first minute whilst the ECU regulates the fuel/air mix to get the car warm.

If you look at a rear light cluster, there are bulbs that are on the outside of the cluster closest to the outside of the car and bulbs that are on the inside (closest to the boot). Reverse light is closest to the inside.

Only because the errors showing are extremely random. I do think an electrical short is probably your culprit and I suspect it will probably be in a location where there is movement in the cable loom (think the interface between chassis and doors) and a lot of these faults are probably spurious and will clear themselves up when the electrical short is discovered.

That's just saying there is an electrical failure of the HIGH canbus network - again a short-circuit. This car hasn't been involved in an accident has it?

There are actually two faults on this section: I agree an electrical short to ground for the interior light circuitary - and the second fault is ESP sensor failure (probably on the Front Right wheel) - which thinks the wheel is literally come off!

The only other way to try and see what faults are real or not - are to clear the logs, run the car and see what new faults get logged.

Okay - fair enough. If you have done this whilst the car is running, then those message will be flagged, but I would ask you to look at the other messages there: 4, 5 and 6 all mention electrical shorts/open circuits. Just out of interest, whats happening on 16 or 17? Showroom mode has been activated???? and component protection has been activated for your Radio?? on 17. Its either got itself in a major tissy or possibly there have been some modifications??? :-)

Yes; there is an obvious fault that seems to be registering and causing a lot of errors: Take number 7 from your list: 10506 Raw code: 00290A ECU: 09. Onboard supply control unit[Archive (inactive)] Status: Confirmed Skoda: B12BE15: Left tail lamp bulb Open circuit/short circuit to B Status bits: 1 Priority: 2 Frequency: 1 Unlearning index: 116 Odometer: 101192 km Date, time: 2021.01.08 20:20:33 There are similar faults being shown for 8, 12 and 13 in your list. Because there is an electrical short circuit or open circuit, this is having all kinds of odd reporting faults - effecting control circuits and the ECU is NOT a happy bunny. The fault you are experiencing is based on the fact that I think you are lost an earth. The current return is going back via a different route causing the interior light to operate randomly. Its auto-electrican time on this one I'm afraid. Keep those logs, show the auto-electrican and he will try and find either the electrical short or the open-circuit. Suspect it could be cable rub-through or a faulty earth.

In every vehicle I have *ever* used which has run on Shell fuels (both standard and premium fuels - whether it is diesel or petrol - performance or non-performance cars), you get an enormous flatspot on the power curve. Its pulpaple. The problem seems to be loss of torque on the power curve. From a Diesel perspective, the engine sounds rough and rattly. From a petrol perspective, a 'dulling' of power in low RPM ranges, which means loss of torque and you end up having to constantly press the accelerator for more power. The only upside of Shell's fuels are that MPG is higher. I suspect this is down to their formulation and that they use fuels with more bio or ethernol based additions to try and burn leaner. Put back in either Esso, BP or Gulf fuels, the problem goes away. Flat spots disappear. Engine sounds smoother.

It should sit square. Are you sure you have the right part for your car? Worth going back and speaking with the supplier. I suspect it is the mounting brackets that are out. Can you transpose the brackets onto the new radiator? Failing that....sorry, it will be back to original OEM equipment. Speak with the parts department at Horton Skoda in Lincoln, because they are super friendly and very knowledgeable and helpful. They are also used to wierd issues cropping up.

Fair enough - as long as it isn't standard Tesco 95RON, then you should be fine. The 99RON stuff from Tesco is rebranded "Greenergy" fuels anyhow.

Yes - avoid Shell fuels like the plague. You'll get a performance flatspot. The VRS will run like a dream on either Esso Supreme 99 or BP Ultimate.

Well - I am surprised - maybe the restrictions are around newbie members in that case. I notice that you are an establishment member, so maybe that gives you the option to post up some images. @ColinD what are the limits on uploading images depending on the membership or non-paid membership?

Good call - I would investigate putting money into your MK3 and upgrading parts as necessary. They are excellent cars.

A simple scanner will do just fine. Just don't clear the faults; because the dealers use them to read the fault codes. Post the fault code numbers on here and we'll try and assist.

Some photos of the problems would be helpful. There is also the concern that if you didn't go for OEM, then the parts may not fit correctly....

(this posting is goading poor MK4 Octy owners - so sorry in advance) You can always trade in your nice new MK4 for a equalily lovely MK3 FL model. All the same build quality, but none of the annoyance....things just....work :-)

Ive ordered the Alipay variant. Excellent.... double purple connector it is.....if I went with the OEM, what part number for the long co-axial?

Thanks @pab567. I've already got a connector plugged into the double white/pink connector. Is that connector used for GPS?