varaderoguy

Suggest petrol for those kind of mileages. A 1.4 or 1.5 tsi is perfectly okay. If you want high spec go for an SE-L. Nice example here: https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202101087777608?atmobcid=soc3

Ouch - that's not good. I would be wanting to get that investigated. Alternatively, get an oil change/filter done so you are starting with clean oil. My TDI engine on my 2000mile Scout started using a little oil, but since I've been gentle with the use of the engine, the consumption has stopped. I'm now on 28500 miles and oil levels are very good. However, I tend to change my oil early [about every 15k], so that probably helps. I use genuine VW/Skoda 504/507 Longlife oil. Never had any issues. Our previous TDI VRS did use a tiny amount of oil, but that was when it was 40C outside [trip to Czechia], so I'll forgive it that....only about 150ml needed to fix that problem.

If it just a occassional hobby interest, then you could do no worse that ODBeleven. More serious tinkering (changing settings) - consider VCDS. re: odderties about faults. Low batteries voltages will cause instabilities in the CANBUS network (which - for those old enough to remember is like the old Coaxial 10Base2 networks, although running at higher speeds). This will - in turn - come up with spurious errors as modules fail to report their status correct, because their voltage levels are low....anything less than 11.8V, your car will not really operate correctly [electrically]. Not always failing batteries - COVID means that the cars are standing idle for long periods of time; invest in a decent trickle battery charger.

Feel your pain; however the Octavia's HVAC system is not infaluable. I also had read not to switch on the AC button during winter, but then did some reading around this subject. A lot of cars now have pre-heaters in them, so the cooling part of the AC system won't kick in until the ambient temperature gets above a certain threshold (about 6 or 7C) to remove the moisture. My HVAC system had a challenge the other week when we got down to -15C here in Scotland (so I feel for you in the Arctic Circle). I know that @SashaGracetold me there is a mode which improves the HVAC system when it is hot, but is there a setting that can be changed to take into account the settings for extra cold parts of the world.

Earlier MIB1 systems do tend to suffer from screen moisture issues; might I suggest getting a Silica Car drying bag to see whether excess moisture can be mopped up first before going down the line of getting a new screen?

Unless you live on the Irish/Northern Ireland border, that is probably not going to happen. Suggest updating the maps as well as the firmware of the MIB2 radio itself.

You can get a wiring loom modification for your 1.6TDI 4x4; there are plenty of third parties who will sell you one. Worth asking your Skoda dealer as well to find out what they will quote you for a tow bar fitting kit and toe bar. DPF's are fine; generally as long as you take the car on long fast blast occasionally (once a week) and don't do too many short journeys you will be fine. DPF's do have a finite life-span, but it is worth finding out what the current state of the DPF is (indepedants or Skoda dealer can tell you). When you take it for a test drive, also see whether the auto-stop/start works (if that is an option in that car) after a long fast test drive. DPF's need heat and lots of it to make them work properly....there was somebody who kept on getting DPF issues on this forum; ignored it and took the car on a European tour (and forgot about the MPG etc)....DPF never gave him a moment's problem after that.

Yes, got the same message from @SashaGrace re: SD Card so I've started the process of downloading the maps.....will put together a How-To for doing this process. Thanks Max

Folks - I am speak with @SashaGrace, but wanted to try and move myself to the Columbus system from my Amunsden system. Keen to have a go myself; got my screen and MIB system. I've got my 4 Radio Removal keys - the only thing I think I am missing is a 32G Card for the Columbus system for the maps.....I've got a 32G card for the Amunsden systemm - can I use that card?? Hits and tips greatfully received.

Aka Split headlight arrangement (which actually still one unit but that's quite another story)

Hey Dara, The EA888 2.0TSI Engine is fairly bulletproof. The key thing is making sure keep on top of the oil/filter changes for the sake of the cam chain and the turbo. Other than that, enjoy the car. If the exhaust note is too loud then you can turn it down. Your car will probably have a Soundikator (artificial noise induction). It can be turned down (I have mine at 50%) either from the MIB system if you have that option or via VCDS.

I am SUPER SUPER Happy!!!! @pab567@SashaGrace A little while back, I spoke to @pab567 who organised me a reworked MIB2.5 Columbus system ( Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035021x (with DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) for my 2019 Octavia Scout. Trying to find a 9.2" screen for this system has proved to be EXTREMELY hard work. Forget ebay - bunch of half-broken screens.... My local Skoda dealer poo-poo'd my upgrade - told me not to bother....however, I have just come off the phone from Hortons Skoda in Lincoln [Matthew in the parts department] (theskodashop.co.uk) who have managed to organise me a NEW SCREEN for headunit. Part number for those who need it is: 5E0919606DBIO . I was struggling, because I was missing the last three characters. This is now FIXED - and a new screen will be send to me in the next couple of days. I am so SUPER happy about this - really want to see what my new system looks like......(kid in sweetshop). Cost of new screen - £703.44 + £5.95 for delivery

I suppose it all depends on whether you can live with the noise or whether you wish to put on the improved cam-chain tensioner/improve cam-chain and how long you want to keep the car for.

The issues seem to start at the mileage shown at your video too.

Timing chain noise..... See this article: https://www.pscautocentre.co.uk/products/2-0t-tsi-ea888-engine-timing-chain-tensioner-replacement-vw-audi-skoda-seat Its an issue with chain actually wearing (even though VW/Skoda say its lifetime - its not) - and that horrible rattle sounds at cold sounds like you have a failing timing chain (which is the noise before the oil gets onto the chain).

How did you do the coolant change? Did you also remove the Silica teabag in the header tank at the same time. You should be using G12evo or G13 ready mixed coolant (Red) for the car. If there is no heat from the heater, then you may have either a blocked matrix from the silica tea bag - or you have a failed thermostat (what is the car temperture doing?) You also might have a air lock (did you expel all the air from the cooling system??)

Failure of the electronic boot handle?

I think you are experiencing random errors associated with low battery levels. Try charging up your battery and see if that resolves your issue.

Folks, I wanted to talk about the weird world of crazy prices for the MK3 Octavia's at the moment. Good Second/Third hand Octavia are really expenses at the moment. As an owner of three of these lovely cars, I think I'm sitting pink, but in reality this is a market place of demand and supply. Supply is low and demand is high. Its hard to judge where prices are meant to be. The reason why I bring this up - is because of the crazy low pricing that VAG dealers are putting on our Octavias. I am assuming that everyone is looking at Glasses/Parkers guides, but the mark-up that dealers are making on used MK3's is crazy. As an example, my 33800m 2018 Octavia VRS (roughly 10k miles per year) - to find a similar specification, you are looking to pay £15 or £16k according to Autotrader. However, a dealer that I enquired to do a trade-in was only prepared to offer £9k for that car. I know that dealers have to have their mark-ups, but that's crazy crazy profit. I think I know why the prices are high - supplies of MK4's are very poor, plus COVID-19 means we have this odd pricing situation. My husband and myself thought about dropping a vehicle, but realised that this was going to cost us dear. I did even put the VRS onto the Classifieds here, but I've just withdrawn it, because I'm in no hurry to swap it and I think that MK3s prices are going to remain high. One thing for sure, I'm not planning to ship it or my Scout in anytime soon.

I had some odd electrical gremlins when it got down to -15C the other day here in Scotland on my Scout. Exactly the same, Windscreen washers just stopped working. I found my windscreen fluid was only ever good down to -10C. What is the dilution of your screen wash (because I imagine you want to make sure it is still fluid down to about -25C)? Suspect that maybe the windscreen washer is overloading due to blocked jet? Does this happen only when it is cold? What electronics did you have switched on at the time?

They all do that to some extent. Keeping the water channels clear and clean and making sure you use a Silica Rubber Lubricant for the rubber seals around the boot will lessen the problem.

Just come across this thread.....I'm going to try with my 2019 Scout and see how I get on. I have auto-dimming mirrors, so there is a cats whisker chance of getting it to work. If I'm feeling brave, I'll try on my husbands SE1.0 - and see how much mileage I get....getting "implausable mirror position" error message will probably mean no go....but if I get it to work, I'll post my config on here.

The idle of the diesels is higher in winter due to extra loads put on the electrical system so what is being reported is quite normal. Switch off the HVAC system and all the electrical toys and the idle should drop.

So far as I can tell, the whole thing about G13 vs G12evo (or plusplus) is that G13 is more environmentally friendly. G13 was probably meant to work with the Silica Tbags that have been removed by lots of folk (to keep a good level of Silica in the coolant system). G12evo has more silica in it, so that will do the same thing. They are compatible with each other. Agree its confusing. Basically gone back to the old recipe with added coolant protectants.

Yes - so here's a thing. Check Horton Skoda (because they aren't a million miles from you) that they have a Hunter 4 wheel alignment (which is the equipment used by some Skoda Garages). There is a particular line-up which is used by the Skoda Garages - that independant's don't have access to - which means that your alignment may not go to plan with independants. I had this issue with my local tyre dealer in Haddington, East Lothian(they could not align either my VRS or Scout properly). The set-up alignments for 4 wheel drive cars is different and you will need to get to a dealer with those profiles installed on their alignment systems.