Monkhai

Assume intelligent was in double quotes because it’s clearly not, but it does have a parameter set.

On the mk3, it isn’t an issue as far as I saw. The other bits I mentioned like tyre pressures etc were reset, but the radio wasn’t for me. As for no recode… I wouldn’t, especially when even Halfords will do it included in their £20. It says you should and it resets the intelligent charging system, but you get the correct tech battery set. Why wouldn’t you?

The original design was IMHO far more resilient than the more familiar tea bag style design.

I don’t think it’s a new sump, but I’m only looking at a picture. Is the paint glossy and new or feels older? I don’t know how old the car is but it’s not an old sump either. The oil filter looks new and has 10/21 on it, so that’s something.

If you read the manual, the regen takes place at lower than 3000rpm (between 1800 and 2250 RPM IIRC). Perhaps take it for a 30 minute drive on an evening, on a quiet motorway up a couple of junctions and back. The forced regen you need to be careful of, because I believe you need to set fans and other things to make sure there is sufficient cooling on a static car.

2 miles is pretty normal for a diesel as they're much more efficient than a petrol car, so generate less excess heat. I'd give it a week or two before you go changing parts. If you're chaning the parts, change the header tank, just in case the silica bag/tube has split. It's so cheap it's not worth making a mess of a new matrix for the sake of the tank.

The same applies to the use of inappropriate terminology from the past too. I'm sure everyone knows how to take the edge off things without any further moderation being required should they choose to do so. 👍

There is the filter housing too, so it could be that. I’ve seen it crack in one before that allowed leaks in a different vehicle. I wouldn’t trust a bottle jack if I’m getting under the car, i suggest just sliding your camera under and recording a video. That’ll give you a good idea.

I’m sure they do, hence a post and comment in the thread rather than anything more.

Like I said I don’t think that oil is suitable and I’d get it changed. You manual will however confirm this. Rather than taking it back, I personally would get under the car with a camera to seek out new parts/see what was actually done. I would probably suggest you take it to a trusted garage so they can confirm what if anything has been done and what needs doing. Get them to write a report if they state anything beyond what you expect. It could be that they put the wrong part in the car, it can happen, but as they gave you a BMW part and used what looks like the wrong oil, I personally would give up taking it back due to risk of creating more problems. Perhaps some members in London can recommend a decent specialist garage.

As the post received reports to the moderators, I think we can safely assume some people thought otherwise. I’ve made a comment on thread to raise the point with the least mod intervention and I’m hoping that’s taken as intended.

FWIW the battery was off the car as it’s been replaced with the new one. 👍 Once off I fully charged it on the ctek to float, left it overnight 18 hours and put the tester on it this morning. Obviously I ignored the good/otherwise rating and percentage and it’s not accurate but it’s a reasonable indication that it has lost around a quarter of the cold grunt it had new. Probably more as it wasn’t that cold this morning although it had been left outside all night. I repeated the test about 3 times under the EN and DIN settings so at least the meter was consistent. I’d also got the 12.7 from a multimeter previously. So it whilst it isn’t totally dead, it’s no longer fit for turning over a cold diesel. Probably fine for a 1L petrol or a solar light system😂 At nearly 7 years old, plus CoVID lockdowns (even with charging) I was waiting for it to decide it was time to start going south 👍 As an aside, I charged the new battery on the ctek AGM program (14.7V max) before putting it in, so I know it is full when it went in.

Less of the rude comments at other users please. They’re not required or acceptable. FWIW leaving the glovebox open with nothing in it is indeed advice given by crime prevention in some higher risk areas.

Tbh that also looks like non vw 504/507 spec oil, I’d find a specialist or dealer and get the correct oil put in before you do some damage to the engine. Do you have a picture of the rear label, which lists the specs? That is certainly not a sump, although it could be another part that connects. I do agree it does look like a bmw logo higher up on the right of the first pic. Do you have a clear picture of that round logo and the part number nearby? Is this the oil? https://www.mannol.de/products/motor-oils-for-cars-and-transporters/synthetic-engine-oils/energy-premium If so that’s only vw 505.01 spec, so you need to check your manual, but it’s possibly not suitable.

Go to the local halfords/motor factors/large supermarket and buy a bottle of VW507 rated oil (Mobil 1/ castrol edge etc with it on the label) and give them the bottle. If you put in the wrong oil, you can badly contaminate the DPF in a very short period of time, so it's worth it. Belt wise, I'd not worry too much about the aux belt, but I'd definately get the cambelt inspected once you're closer to home/at a garage you trust.

That looks non-conductive, so probably the same issues as vaslene I imagine. I'm unsure if this sort of thing would be worth anything to be honest. https://www.amazon.co.uk/MG-Chemicals-Premium-Carbon-Conductive/dp/B00NB14C2C/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3XYF9V8SD3CAX1R4J28R In terms of the old battery, this was rated at 68A 380 DIN / 680 EN/SAE and the battery tester reported the state as good, but clearly not good enough for a diesel on a cold day that hasn't been started for a few days.

Are you sure it’s radweld and not a split silicate bag from the header tank?

I picked up the mxs7 rather than the 5 because on the 7 the initial stage pulsing is at 14.something volts rather than 15.something on the mxs 5. For AGM batteries the 15.8 is apparently bad and the 5 at the time did the same even on AGM mode. You however make the point about monthly instead of two weekly, which is definitely fair.

Interesting… Maybe I’ll stop using it in future, but I definitely removed plenty from the original factory fit battery/leads. Hence the dealer/factory comment.

I used a light smear of Vaseline to reduce corrosion on the terminals and leads whilst the battery is in the car. It’s something I was taught to do on old cars, so I’ve just carried it over. I’m of the opinion that it just makes things easier when it’s time to change again. As to if it’s essential I am not certain. My car had it on the factory battery, so either the factory or dealer clearly thought it was a good idea at some point. Edit: Silicon grease or some specialist grease might be better (or not) but it’s probably just to keep moisture etc out of the connection.

If i read the news correctly this morning, then there was a 10 second penalty (but no real penalty) for an effective brake test, including actually applying the brakes. IMHO (and I'm not a steward) it's not enough as it allows RB to go into the next race ahead, so if neither finish, Max wins. Bearing in mind that almost happened, then I'd say one point off, so Max had to finish the next race to win the championship would have been a suitable penalty. As it stands it's another (IMHO) dangerous move, which hasn't really had any penalty for it.

Thanks, I took your approach. The H6 size they mention, has the same dimensions as the 096AGM I fitted. I clearly got lucky having both the larger capacity and an AGM not EFB battery from the factory

Be interesting to see if there's a firmware update, as I wouldn't want to be behind one if they are actually causing issues. I'm sure pod-point is one of the Kia recommended suppliers too, so if it's taking out their chargers that's not ideal.

I personally think that some of the prices ECP quote as standard prices are in the realms of fiction. As you say however, regardless of price, getting the right battery and doing it correctly is the priority. £213 including swap and coding isn't any more than you'd pay to buy it yourself and pay a dealer to code it in, so not that bad. TBH the local dealer seemed quite reasonable too, just sadly the lead time to get it fitted was more than I could wait. Perhaps taking the battery off and clearing everything, resulted in the DSG losing it's learned characteristics, but I'm not the right person to answer that as I'm not a DSG person

So the rain stopped and I thought the thread was worth updating with an FYI (and title change), as it's now done. To do it on a 2.0TDI the following are needed: (This may vary depending on the car, so it is entirely at your own risk - if you're unsure of what you're doing/why or any safety issues, then don't do it and go to a garage). A new battery (Mine was an 096 AGM to replace the OEM 096 AGM) A 10mm spanner A 13mm socket with a long extension (to get to the bottom of the battery). Petrolium jelly or other similar protective lubricant (probably not required for modern cars) Pair of suitable nitrile etc gloves. Suitable Eye/body protection (The battery may be full of acid) Undo the black negative terminal and place it carefully out of the way (I placed it in a ziplock plastic bag to stop it touching anything). Undo the red positive teminal and place it carefully out of the way (Again I placed it in a ziplock plastic bag to stop it touching anything) Remove battery surround (Fabric type thing) by gently pulling upwards and wiggling etc as needed. If there is a protective cap over the negative terminal, pull the part attached to the battery upwards to remove. (It is in two holes) Use 13mm socket to undo the bolt at the front side of the battery (At base of battery near positive terminal) and remove the bolt/plate taking care not to drop them into the engine bay. Slide the old battery forward on the tray until it's released and remove it from the car. Fit the new battery by placing it on the tray then sliding it into place (May require a wiggle) Replace the battery plate and bolt, screwing the plate down, so the battery is securely held in place Wiggle the battery surround (Fabric type thing) back into the correct place. Clean up the battery connections removing any dirty grease and replace with clean suitable grease. (This is probably not required on modern cars - see later posts) Refit the red positive lead and do it up (Making sure to keep all tools well clear of the other battery terminal/metal) Refit the black negative lead and do it up (Making sure to keep all tools well clear of the other battery terminal/metal) Push the negative protective cap back into the holes by the negative terminal to cover it Close the lid of the battery surround and make sure everything is securly in place. Next you need to code the battery, so will need VCDS or another suitable tool. Again if you don't know what you're doing, just pay a garage to supply, fit and code the new battery. Code the new battery using VCDS under modules / CAN gateway (19) / Adaptations (10) and then selected the correct values for your new battery in the categories below: IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity, IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology, IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer, IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number, My OLD Battery Capacity 68 Ah Technology Fleece Manufacturer JCB Battery Serial Number 1111111111 My NEW Battery Capacity 70 Ah Technology FLEECE Manufacturer YBX Battery Serial Number 1111111112 (incremented by 1) Check your new battery specs, as it may well be different to mine, for example EFB instead of AGM, different capacity/manufacturer etc) and make sure you pick the correct values for your new battery. I then took a very short drive for about 100 yards to sort out the ABS sensors all being implausable and warnings to go out. The tyre pressure warning system complained it had lost all values, so they were checked and that reset. Finally I auto-scanned the car, checked for faults and cleared any fault codes related to the low battery. All seems fine and it started instantly so I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days to make sure the battery has solved the original issue. Regarding the old battery and why voltage (with no load) isn't really useful in deciding if it's dead, it's still at a constant 12.7V without load. Stuck it back on the CTEK now to see how long it takes to get back to float charge (Shouldn't be long if it's healthy) and then I'll get it load tested in 24 hours to see what's left and if that is the likely candidate.