skomaz

Yep w3w... These are the ones I used to use when I had an Octavia estate... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Genuine-Neolux-501-W3W-T10-TW2-1x9-5d-Wedge-12v-3w-Clear-Bulbs-N504-/192105231608?hash=item2cba5d34f8:g:wlEAAOSwax5Yo0DH&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAAwLIiF9IlbuUoflN5dmWoF0CYfbDfeLGymDfF7g4xU5Vlol18/PZPfQ0DxIkYjwtCzv8o6H+Vt5RJfOfwsoElXMNQ8t5dCct9bg0QpiloBr194pa1HDVi2cjTsKJaznsLz9Pr2+CIdnIJy+BGmjPIaDei5rKFDSViT7DGLoakSvWkxRYgufUFECtNB9rfUZJVhS4qnyLJOwkcgeAVoSODQjJ6tTfmBjuuBP1tP7fDHw4JZbFZoiA0ZKrTCZGZo3KtXA==|tkp:Bk9SR-K2q6HlYQ&pageci=644f28cd-c912-49e6-be00-173dae35721e&redirect=mobile In fact I've probably still got a load somewhere in the garage (not sure where though...)

Interesting - I had the Goodyear's on my Honda Civic and didn't rate them at all - crap in the wet and noisy - they were replaced by Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta's which were a far better tyre (shame they're not made any more)

I'm assuming there is no 'emergency release' option on the Tesla then and they don't unlock the cable once fully charged so it can be removed and re-used? (if not hey should be mandated to do so under Construction and Use Regs).

I'd guess at an immobizer issue there and the key not being recognised. Might be worth checking the antenna on the ignition barrel?

I may be unusual but we have the Falken Azenis FK510 on the Kodiaq and I've been pretty impressed. Very stable quiet and good in the wet. Maybe no tup with some of the top stuff but very good in my opinion.

Pretty certain they are w3w. If they are the ones that light up the 'c' shape.

Nice... Although I do still prefer the nose on the old one.

Don't tempt me... I do keep looking i case I find an 'upgrade' to ours but most of what I see are a good third more than we paid for the same age but much higher mileage. Well... that and the fact that SWMBO wants a manual gearbox (most are DSG). So I keep thinking ours was a bargain and we'd be daft to change it.

That does look a cracker and I do like the Velvet Red...

They are actually easy to replace yourself. You can either push bloody hard OT remove / ease out the big circlip from the rigid pipe push the Flexi home then refit the circlip. It will have been off to do the belt rather than have loosened of its own accord.

First thing I'd do re the PAS is replace the steering angle sensor or at least get the wiring to it and the alternator checked as I seem to recall these were a common failure point on some cars. The angle sensor is relatively cheap and earlier ones did suffer water ingress. As for someone to look at it soryy can't help there...

That doesn't sound like the propshaft coupling then. When ours went it was very related to a specific engine rpm regardless of speed but was more noticeable in higher gears under load, particularly in top at 75mph ish but tailed off at the same speed with the clutch depressed from memory.

Lady E would be up for that as well... I'm sure

What gear and what engine speed. If it's most noticable around 2300rpm and in higher gears then I'd wager at that mileage it's the rear propshaft coupling that's worn and needs replacing.

In the past I've used a jack on the sill jacking points and then, like suggested above, used the lower arm chassis mounting points for stands. Never had an issue doing that and Id be seriously worried if any manufacturer tries to suggest those points aren't strong enough given they are where the suspension mounts and the loading they take during driving.

If your is anything like our it was ripped off by the weight of snow sliding down the back window. I've found d one on ebay with a blade for £13 rather than the £50 the dealer wanted. Any good? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Superb-Mk3-Estate-7-2015-9-2016-Rear-Wiper-Arm-Blade-41-cm-16-Inch/374191258146?fits=Car Make:Skoda|Cars Year:2015|Model:Superb&hash=item571f897a22:g:tyUAAOSwCRFi4R02&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA0C1BGF9rkKTf2bst7N1KKhEdCAKbdQwwRRA5+ymgRGbnmVCQ9xcD9k8mB6mR1qp5hBFB++REUjVmJfqZ1gk6MYKsWP+jgi/SOQhBRwqNJq4Um3/N5fhBWO8PZA80gn59klT01r5VmQHCD+D1Djw10cDcW5iBeG5N3ef5OUJ5l41UP1tr5w5/OQVnl4Y3ozCOC0XyXMj7aFYquvCWiV7+bW8mpa0SqfKfF9c3T49QW3sHba5xaaSRc7dsSOIEyA8aiPfvII15sYrHX/K76qznmr0=|tkp:Bk9SR-SN4e3aYQ&pageci=89f9cd46-f253-4d86-95ad-6e5145035614&redirect=mobile

We are similar - Kodaiq and a Swift Hybrid (plus a toy for summer). The vast majority of our trips are done in the Swift except for longer journeys and journeys in weather like we have now, when the Kodaiq is used but I am think that as and when the Swift is passed to my daughter, or needs replacing, we'll look at a small EV with sufficient range for my regular work trips of 100 miles or so.

I bought my Mazda MX5 from Hayselden's on North Bridge years ago and did test drive a Kodiaq from them before we bought ours, so the sales side seemed OK but I've no experience of the service side of things. However, I used Autohaus Dolby in Sheffield recently and they seemed fine - spoke to them a couple of times about what was needed and they were very knowlegable, were able to service for less than the main dealer and were happy to advise and recommend what needed doing. The job was done on time, no question, for the detailed price and no issues with it so far! They also recently did a quick diagnostics on a friends car for free as she was passing and just called in on the off chance they might be able to advise given the local dealer weren't very helpful. It turned out to have a stored code that the dealer said wasn't there but, given the age of the car should be a warranty item so nothing in it for them, except potential future business. A bit of a trek for you from Donny but easy enough to get to.

Not really. I've had a go at tightening the socket and rebending the pressure springs inside it which works for a few days but other that allive done is try and check parts costs... Which seem to vary from about £20 to £50 depending on source... Its still on my list though.

I have historically for an Octavia ll estate rear hatch seal. The part was OE and came quickly but was a while ago and probably pre brexit.

Funnily enough I had a petrol T-cross dsg as a courtesy car this week. I didn't rate it at all. Quite 'tinny' with a hard plastic interior that creaked over every bump until it had warmed up and a jerky DSG box that made smooth starts and general driving virtually impossible. Its certainly not somewhere I'd be putting my money given the other options out there.

We have them on our 2018 Kodiaq and have had no issues with them catching on ferries between the uk an Northern Ireland, including those with steep ramps to the top deck. I can take some pictures or measurements if you want and im pretty certain they are a very straightforward fit.

Nah he's not... I've got this on the swift along with a Lego racing driver on the dashboard...

Afternoon all, Just after some advice please – we’ve ‘inherited’ a 17” HP Pavilion Core i5 2.6Ghz laptop that runs Windows 8.1 and, apart from driving us mad with it’s user interface it’s also just gone out of support and is deadly clunky. So – any suggestions to breathe new life into it at absolute minimal cost… According to the website below I should be able to upgrade to Windows 10 for free using the 8.1 product key. How to upgrade to Windows 10 from Windows 8.1 - Pureinfotech Is this correct… ??? Any other thoughts?? Also whilst I’m on has anyone any experience of Chrome OS flex for breathing life back into a couple of old Asus Eee PC’s? Cheers

Looks like you bought a whole new mechanism? I just bought the plastic runner that had broken. A bit more faff but cheaper.