skomaz

Hybrids tend to use the motor generator to restart rather than the starter motor. Certainly my Swift only uses the starter motor for the first start on each drive cycle. Every subsequent one uses the hybrid motor.

Maybe it's so difficult because it was designed not to be replaced as a lifetime component - hence the pulley and belt design - but the workshop manual has to have the replacement procedure in case it is needed, say as a result of failure of a completely different part...

The thing is though... the design of the pulleys and belt was changed for ACT to reduce stresses on them - ie the ovalised cam pulleys and the kevlar reinforced belt. I know I'm slightly different as I have a 1.4TSi ACT but I'll certainly not be getting the cam belt replaced at 5 years!

The Mk1 Fabia vrs did have an option for factory xenons and they do look like them. Do you have a picture of the top / back of the light to check part numbers etc. Also what is the issue with them?

I don't think it was just projectors... Bthe OE HID reflectors on my old 2006 Civic were poor too even when properly adjusted (they were adjusted far too low initially). However the OE Led projectors in my Swift are excellent. The reflectors on the Kodiaq seemed poor initially but new Night breakers and proper adjustment has made a lot of difference, although I do wish Osram would get approval for their Nightbreaker Led drop in kits in the Kodiaq as they have done for other vehicles...

If you do try a HID conversion many on here have used the kits from a seller called London Colour on eBay with good results and success, including myself, and his kit was far better quality and longevity than another I tried.

HID conversions were banned in 2018 if not earlier and it passed since then. Most MOT testers seem to be pragmatic and if the beam pattern is OK pass them. With a projector with shutter there's much less chance of glare due to the way the optics work. Reflectors are a different story which is why I still have halogens in the Kodiaq. You can make your own decision but given the difference in light output if I were in your position I'd make the change. It will pass the MOT I'm sure and, if it doesn't its not a big job to change the bulbs back to halogen and retest... Maybe 10 minutes work each side? Up to you but if your that bothered...

Well just to chip in here I had a 2007 mk ii Octavia with projector lights for 13 years and for the vast majority of that was with a HID conversion and it never failed an MOT.

I agree... I don't have an issue with them and TBH people do 70mph or more on a dual carriageway with no hard shoulder... But that just my view

That'll explain why I didn't get the CWW one .. MGs were well out of my price range... My first car was a S/H Chevette.

Heated rear window Full service history Something wash wipe? One loving owner Full main dealer service history Power assisted steering Electric wondows front and rear 5 speed box Taxed and tested Very good condition ****ed up beyond repair God I'm showing my age

I may be going over old ground here but... doesn't the 1.5TSI ACT have a similar cam arrangement to the 1.4TSI ACT which, according to the Skoda technical manuals, doesn't need changing and is only an 'inspection' item as it's a lifetime belt? If so I can understand why people are getting ridiculous quotes...

Ok - but please make sure you come back

No no no... Don't let idiots wind you up and force you off. You contribute a huge amount to this forum in the form of info and positive responses. Others are the ones that should be retiring!!

Forgot to say... The switch on the Fabia gave up in a similar manner so I stripped it down and found some grease inside had thickened and stopped it staying in position

What you described is exactly how they worked on our Fabia and Octavia and how they work on the Kodiaq I can't see a roomster being any different

To be honest not completely. I did the same and taped up the glass to the frame which pretty much sorted it and then cut a slot in the rubber stops at each corner of the hatch so that any collected water could drain out of the hatch frame outside of the seal onto the bumper. It was on my list to do but we traded it for the Kodiaq... Which in turn also had a hatch leak that was from the glass to wiper grommet. (sorted now with some sealant under the grommet)

We had a leak on our Fabia at o e stage a bit like that and I eventually narrowed it down to the rear screen to rear hatch met work bond failing. I taped it up with electrical tape between the two along the top and sides as a temporary cure and to check that was it before resealing it with tigerseal. A few years later we had a simar issue with our old octavia on both front and back screens.

It's a long time ago now but I recall getting stopped in the LWB by a driver of a 17t wagon with a flat battery and being asked to give it a tow start. I was reticent at first but he was insistent so we hooked it up to the land rovers tow bar I stuck it in low ratio 4x4 and set off... It got the wagon started no problem.

We used to get SWB and LWB Defenders on highway construction sites years ago - the SWB ones were great at doing 4 wheel drifts out of / or into our site compounds and there was always a scrap for the keys first thing in the morning... Not sure you'd get them now due to the costs of them...

Yep mine used to be my all year car but at nearly 28 years old it's now got a pampered life. However if its not raining the roof has alway been down whatever the temperature and still is. Unless it's being washed.

I use a pv panel on my mx5 when it's laid up over winter it works and extends the period between needing charges but isn't quite up to covering the aftermarket immobiliser drain given the short daylight hours we have at the moment...

Just a thought... Feel around the back of the glove box for any sign of drips and maybe check the pollen filter cover is fitted properly just in case it's something g to do with the Air Con.

@silver1011 tows a big van with a 1.4 TSi so I doubt you'd have much issue with a 2.0TSi..

I'd be taking that wheel arch liner off and looking behind in case it's all flagged up with leaves and mud so not draining, filling up and getting back into the car via a loose grommet or similar. For reference, in my experience with our Kodiaq my local dealer was useless at finding a leak and the service manager didn't even understand how the drainage routes worked etc. Suggesting it was normal for water to drain through the interior of the car!!