skomaz

From memory those sealed beam units were Lucas ones and lived up to the Prince of Darkness jokes!

he he - Austin 1100s and 1300s - we had two in the family - a dark blue 1100 and, following that, a dark green 1300 that was eventually replaced by an Allegro, all of which were my mum's. They were all good cars and reliable for their time - but boy did they rust - i remember spending hours with my dad with filler and aluminium mesh fixing holes in them - in fact we nearly set the green one on fire one cold day as my dad, in his wisdom, decided to use a candle underneath the car to try and help get some filler to cure... which set the underseal on fire!

Hi Matt... Just done this for my daughter who's 17 and learning and did her as a named driver on the swift. Went with the post office as it was cheaper than the renewal offered by others without her. For a laugh I asked about putting her on the Kodiaq with GA... £135 for me and SWMBO only... £1350 with my daughter added!!!

Didn't replace the turbo but did do some work a long time ago that resulted in the boost pipe not clicking back in fully - it popped off after about a mile and the car felt like it had about 25bhp! When I replaced the boost pipe on it some years later I made sure all the clips and clamps were damn tight!

For many people it's also because specs may not suit and options kits sometimes combine many elements, all of which may not be wanted... So some people buy a car then tailor it to suit themselves.

If the cambelt required the removal of intake and boost pipes I'd be checking those are all in place, intact and tight first

For me it certainly wouldn't be anything new from the likes of the usual sports car makers... I reckon I'd go old-school with a garage of cars - so maybe something like an older G-wagon / Jimny for winter, maybe an AMG E-Class estate for the family and then something small and light for hooning- so it's got to be a Caterham?? I do fancy a massive old American V8 barge though as well, or maybe a TVR with a V8 (despite the lack or reliability - it's the sound I like!)

It's not a show car but is a 1995 MK1 in a rare colour and spec that I've had since 1998, so I'm well aware of how it can be used in winter. Its in great condition and used to be my daily driver but given I now generally run three or four cars consecutively I tend to make much more use of the others over winter. It therefore makes sense to stick it in the garage and save 6 months if tax. As for the hood it's not been up in years, regardless of weather.

that's not a bottom end issue if it is like the video. My MX5 has had exactly the same issue historically after being laid up over winter but a decent flush and fresh oil usually sorts it. The process is usually drain a bit, add the flushing chemical, run the engine, drain and refill with fresh decent oil.

If it is a sticking lifter, which it could be if it's been stood for a while then an engine oil flush to remove any deposits and fresh oil might sort it

He he - nice! I had an A-reg silver 1.2GL Nova but according to the DVLA it died in 1998 (they were only available in that trim level for a year or so). I spent a whole summer one year sorting all the rust out on it and smartening it up then a few months later traded it for new (H-reg) Mitsubishi Colt 1.5GLX It was originally my sister's car but she sold it to me when she got a new 1.3SR in pale metallic blue... at which point I sold on my pea green Chevette 1.3L

Off topic but I once took a wee sample in to the Doc's for testing when I had kidney stones - the receptionist thought it was a blood sample...

Hate to say it but with posts like that I doubt very much you'll get any more help on here should you need it! I've been here a long time and frequent multiple times every day but didn't see your post either! we're not psychic so if we don't see a post then apologies for not helping but no need to get stroppy!

Did they not test two versions, one with and one without the extra kit? I'm pretty sure they did with the Suzuki Swift as it has two ratings, with and without. Having said that they still missed a load of kit mine has...

Not sure people are talki g about using them in those conditions George... I don't... But the warnings and bongs still happen and stay annoyingly regardless which is distracting in those conditions

It's happened on both our Kodiaq and Swift too, each of which have a sensor in the front grille

From memory the VW Gamma is made by Blaupunkt and the earlier Skoda CD changers by Grundig... and my recollection is that they don't talk to each other.

Fixed it!! 😀 Finally got round to taking it apart and noticed that the ribbon cable to the laser head seemed to be kinked and felt cracked. So I took it off, straightened it out and used a bit of sellotape to strengthen it and hold it together. Reassembled it all and it now works perfectly. New ribbon cable on order though just in case.

No need for new carriers - just the plastic runners - they're on ebay for a few quid...

Was just going to say the same - been there done that! I'd be getting the runners changed before it all gets too late and the whole mechanism gets knarled up.

yep noted and agreed! Just some people p[refer to sort it themselves in one go rather than having to visit the dealer multiple times and / or get fobbed off when it works perfectly when takenin 😉

Found the article: How to fix an issue with sticking door handles on a Seat Ibiza - Professional Motor Mechanic.pdf

We have this occasionally on our Kodiaq on the drivers door but a quick knock of the handle usually cures it. I seem to recall seeing a 'fix' on a Seat forum that involved removal of the lock 'barrel' (one screw to undo in the door jamb) and minor filing of two ridges on it on the side where it meets the part of the handle that pulls out... the theory being that the manufacturing tolerances meant that these 'ridges' were catching and preventing the moving part of the handle moving.

The 4x4 non scout had raised suspension that was the same as the scout. The bigger wheels and tyres then made the extra difference. The pre fl 4x4 and scout both had BMM TDis rated at 140bhp with a dpf. The fl can have either that or the CR 140, again with a dpf. If it's the BMM it'll map to 185bhp on Stage 1 with the dpf removed. As and when you get it get the haldex oil and filter changed and get the propshaft rubber doughnuts checked

Good call on taking the speaker off