skomaz

Can you use one of those flexible grabbers to get at it via the grommet hole? I have one that has got me out of lots of similar issues in the past...

Looking at the specs for Toad it is only for engine and transmission diagnostics and changes, so won't do what you need for the tow bar fitting as it won't access the relevant modules.

Fantastic article Rob!!

If you think the wait for a kodiaq is bad just be glad you didn't order a land cruiser... Apparently any ordered now will take four years to deliver!!!

Just a thought - I wonder if that 'faraday' material is readily available via well known shopping sites... if so it might be useful for lining drawers that people keep keys in etc. to provide an additional layer of protection...

I have kessy on the swift but my keys go in a faraday bag when at home that's been tested standing next to the car. Unfortunately the only flying the ointment is my wife - who never seems to remember to put the keys back in it, so I always have to go hunting through her handbag and pockets to find the key and sort it!

Indeed -interestingly your images suggest the issue isn't as bad as it was with my Dunlop SP-01's where I could see the carcass / cords! I've been tending to purchase Michelin or Vredestein recently and have had no such problems.

Not an unusual situation - I've had the same cracking issue with Dunlop previously and heard similar stories on Bridgestones - so haven't bought either make since.

Just noticed this morning on the school run that there's a house not far from us with a new LWB Defender and a new Lexus RX on the drive - combined value probably more than the house they are in front of!

If the council aren't interested it's probably Thiers!!

Leave a note on the windscreen or report as abandoned

We had that issue on our old 2007 MkII Octavia and on the 2001 rear hatch glass on the Fabia Estate we had before it - so it wouldn't surprise me if a MkI coudl suffer similarly!

Yes the prop doughnut links the prop to the haldex so does spin at a speed relative to the wheels butthe difference in gear affects the torque that the doughnut is transmitting and therefore how it reacts. On the octavia i could cruise at around 2300 rpm in 6th and the noise was horrendous underload but tailed off on the over-run. If it was dropped into 5th at exactly the same speed the noise pretty much went away under both load and over-run, but drop the speed to 2300 rpm and it would start again but much quieter. Put it back in 6th and accelerate to about 85 and the noise stopped. There are two doughnuts one at the front and one at the rear and on mine both were perished but the noise started when the rear one failed. It took me a while to decipher what the issue was and I did wonder about tyres and DMF but eventually narrowed it down and had a local specialist check the drivetrain. They confirmed the doughnuts were shot and also that they had experience of occasional similar issues on Audis.

If it was tyres changing gear at the same speed would make no difference. The age is spot on for rear propshaft doughnut coupling failure and having 🐝 there would be my first port of call... What is the mileage... 75k ish.

i had that on our Octavia... it'll be the propshatf coupling doughnut thats worn out. A febi bilstein replacement is about £100 plus fitting as an aftermarket part but skoda will want to sell you a full propshaft at about £800 plus fitting, so you'd be best to find a vw specialist to do the work.

much more likely to be a boot seal or rear light cluster issue I would have thought if there is no damp mark on the headlining??

Loving that new garage!

Hi George - I'm pretty certain that only related to the Diesel 150s, not the petrol 150s

Well if the kodiaq is similar that would certainly explain a lot!! I think that golf had the washer trough the spindle but either way the gaiter looks the same and that picture looks like thats what has been leaking!

No experience but looking at tow bars for a 2018 150TSi 5 seater, so if you find any info please post back here.

I have some screenwash tablets but only use them in emergencies... It saves carrying a bottle of liquid around.

No sign of damage or wear but there did look to be some 'dirt' under it and, when putting the sealant in it felt and sounded like the end of the tool I was using may have been touching the edge of the hole in the glass that the spindle and gaiter protrude through, which would suggest the hole is close to the outer edge of the rubber gaiter (so maybe it's just a slight mis-alignment of the wiper mechanism that allows some to leak but most don't?) In terms of water - it was definitely getting between the inner tailgate plastic trim and the metalwork (that join in your photo just above the boot close button) as I could see the water along that join when the inner plastic trim was flexed and a tissue pushed against it came back wet. That join, when the tailgate is closed is effectively above the seal, so anything dripping put of it would then sit on top of the seal. As for how it got between the plastic trim and the metalwork - I assume it was running down the inner face of the glass / rear wiper mechanism and then dropping into the trim from there as I doubt it is double skinned in entirety.

Ok another update... a few days on and some torrential rain later and... it's been dry! Now I'm not calling it a success just yet given previous experiences but it does seem promising that it might just have been getting in past the gaiter for the rear wiper... touch wood eh?

Having seen all the issues with the Mk4, and having also seen all the issues you've had with your Mk3, I woudn't go near a Mk 4 at the moment...

have had that on our Kodiaq too... the wife was not impressed as the car threw various warnings and I hadn't realised!