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My 23 SEL with Varioflex seating came new with a rail on each side and one hook on each side. I since added two more to have two hooks on each side. My workmates 23 Sportline with standard seating came with one rail on one side but had two hooks on the rail.

Yes no need to go over the top for atmos. I originally had some Minx Min12's and they were really good for the size. I've had five TV's and three receivers since the last time I swapped speakers. Such is the progress of electronics. By far the best upgrade I've done in recent years is to invest is REW and Audyssey MultEQ-X PC Software. I was never happy with the alignment of my two subs and now I have the setup just where I want it. With TV upgrades and electronic upgrades it's always easy to quantify the upgrade, you know what you're are getting extra. Upgrading speakers is far more subjective.

My speakers are 14 years old and I'm getting itchy to upgrade I have 683 L&R, HTM61 centre and 4x 682 surrounds. 4x Cambridge Audio speakers for atmos. 7 Series are on my list and the CCM683 ceiling speakers.

Yep, I think some designs are more robust than others but you can certainly help the build I found the Besta unit comes with additional fittings to cover how the unit will be configured. I double floored where the amps sit, only light electronics sit on the shelving. And as I left the back open for ventilation I put additional corner supports on the back and additional adjustable legs in the middle. I have sat in it Denon AVR X4800, Emotiva power amp, B&W centre, Panasonic 4k Bluray, PS5, SkyQ, and a couple of aircom coolers. It feels absolutely solid empty and full. My previous stand was four times the cost and was obviously better built but the options on the besta are the main reason i went for it, choose size then there's numerous options for doors, shelves, draws, colours, tops. etc etc.

I had tower racks for a couple of decades. Switched out for low and wide AV stands that suits home Cinema better some years ago. When my last unit didn't really fit my gear I wanted something more modular and build flexible. I read thread after thread and I eventually settled on an Ikea Besta unit configured to my needs. I don't do Ikea, this is the only Ikea thing I own, but I've been surprised by the build quality compared to the expensive bespoke units I've had in the past. (I have double skinned the base) I've had to invest in AC Infinity Aircom coolers though.

Your battery has low voltage.

You get the full 150PS and 250NM in all modes with the foot flat to the floor. It's how the engine responds to the pedal inputs in between 0 to 100% that differs.

You should be able to feel the difference in throttle response on a manual. The pedal travel for torque demand differs in each mode. For example and not actual reality. Eco 30% pedal travel requests 10% torque Normal 30% pedal travel requests 30% torque Sport 30% Pedal travel requests 50% torque Difference in how the engine produces torque / power is minimal in each mode but you can make it feel much more responsive. Some small cars do this, especially some smaller Italian N/A models. 25% pedal travel would give you 80% torque demand so driving normally they'd feel really strong but put your foot down and there'd be hardly anything extra.

If you are putting the gearbox in Sport on the lever then only the DSG change points will get adjusted. Using the Mode Select button in sport mode will change the DSG change points, throttle response and steering weight.

It's a thing. Throttle mapping is changed in sport mode.

No passwords, it's coded to the car. When you plug it back in it will be recognised.

For difficult loads the XPA are good but I'd avoid the BasX range. BasX are great for the money but can struggle below 4 ohm

I don't have the info for the 2.0TSI. For other models For the 1.5 the difference is the holder and fan. The fan is actually the same rating but the holder allows more airflow when then fan is not running through an additional flap. But I've not heard of a single issue of anyone towing without mods in the UK with Yeti or Karoq, petrol or diesel across this and caravanning forums in the last 15 years or so.

Very late to this thread. In the late 80's I got into hifi, nothing major Rotel, Mission, Sony. Then I got into in car entertainment as it really took off in the late 80's and had a side business as an installer. I gave up before it became all Max Power and sub boxes from Halfords. From the mid 90's onwards I started to get into Home Cinema. I have a running total and have spent close to £40k over the years and that's not counting buying media through the Laser Disc, DVD, HD-DVD, Bluray and 4k Bluray era's. Currently run Denon Receiver, Emotiva Power Amps, 11x B&W speakers and 2x BK Elec Subwoofers.

Yeti is like a brick though. We ran a 1.2TSi Octavia and 1.2TSi Yeti at the same time. Same platform, same drivetrain and both FWD. Octavia was on average 10mpg better and at higher motorway speeds 15mpg better. The aero effect can be seen on max speed as well. Yeti with 150PS is around 120mph, Karoq with 150PS around 130mph and Octavia with 150PS nearer 140mph.

What was the cost and did you have towbar prep from new?

We've have a size smaller combo of Octavia and Karoq. We also have elderly parents to look after and for those duties we always use the Karoq as parents struggle with the low seating position of a saloon/hatch/estate and find the SUV much easier.

We have , 1.5TSi DSG Karoq 1.2TSi Octavia 1.0TSi DSG Fabia On a run the Karoq is the most economical although the Fabia is slightly better around town due to the weight advantage.

Not achieved 60mpg+ from my 1.5TSi DSG Karoq yet but it's currently more economical than my diesel DSG Yeti was.

Simple answer is you don't need to. Just don't connect phone to car via wifi and carplay works fine.

Google Maps will be the same without data. You will only get offline maps and no live traffic. Just don't connect to the cars wifi,

Yep an update killed it. Carplay wireless is able to use bluetooth only. If you connect wifi it now tries to use data from the wifi network instead of the phones mobile data. For Android auto it uses the phone data always. The bluetooth connection is used for calls, wifi connection is used for streaming data and music from the phone up to lossless quality.

Wired or wireless? Android Auto or Apple Carplay. If it's Wireless and Applecar play it's a known issue as when the iphone connects to the cars wifi it will always try and use the cars data. If you don't have a data plan then no online services are available. If so forget the cars wifi network on the phone.

It's not just a Kessy/keyless thing. Some years ago I was on holiday and had my SLR in the boot of my Passat. I heard the roar of a Lancaster so ran to the car, opened the boot, grabbed my camera, shut the boot and yes I'd left the keys in the boot. My dad had to drive 160 miles to bring me the spare key.

Keep a subscription to the remote app.