Title say sit all really...

Battery, should be 12.5 volts minimum after 2 hrs of non use. If it's less than that, consider a new battery. Diesel batteries get clobbered, and with PAS alone capable of taking 60 AMPS a good battery is essential.

Screen Wash. Use plenty of screenwash additive to prevent freezing of washer fluid. Too little and you risk blowing pipes off the washer pump or tailgate fittings.

Wipers. Check blades are in good condition. Don't operate wipers if frozen to the screen. If you do F15 will most likely blow.

Tyres. 3mm minimum tread. 1.6mm is the legal limit, but you really need 3mm or more for winter use. Check the spare wheel condition and pressure, Nothing worse than getting a puncture, only to discover the spare is flat.

Aircon. Use it now and again during winter to prevent system seals drying out and leaking due to lack of use.

Carry a bag of rags to clean lights between washes.

Edit: Have anti freeze protection level checked. 50/50 G12 works nicely

Edited 25 September, 200915 yr by MoggyTech
Update to anti freeze information

Good advice there - but aren't we still waiting for our summer to come?

Also, is that the same battery rating for petrol models, or is it a universal figure?

Good thread that - sticky material really

Steve

Good advice there - but aren't we still waiting for our summer to come?

Also, is that the same battery rating for petrol models, or is it a universal figure?

The 12.5V battery figure applies to all batteries, and is a general guide to battery health, but load testing is better, but beyond most home DIY mechanics without the test equipment. Easiest test is the next day after sitting overnight. An almost new battery will read 12.6 to 12.8 Volts.

Summer was actually fairly good in Central Scotland. Well until the kids went on school holidays, then it just rained non stop

So 10.5 volts is bad? My tech highlighted it at its last service (~8 months ago) but it still hasn't missed a beat and it's now into its 6th year!

So 10.5 volts is bad? My tech highlighted it at its last service (~8 months ago) but it still hasn't missed a beat and it's now into its 6th year!

Really bad! That would suggest a dead cell mate. I fitted a MONSTER battery to the VRs a few months back. 680AMP cold Crank, 82Ah Calcium Tech. Not cheap at £99, but boy it starts fast

Does anybody change their wheels in the winter on their VRS? what do they handle like in snow?

i running my tt comps now but gonna go back to running the standard vrs rims when the salt starts to come!

Does anybody change their wheels in the winter on their VRS? what do they handle like in snow?

Depends very much on tyre choice. Handling in snow is scary with all that torque at hand and such wide tyres, Quite a few (and you know who you are ) kerbed their cars last year.

I think I will invest in some standard vrs wheels for winter and get the rs4's refurbed

Quite a few (and you know who you are ) kerbed their cars last year.

Me! Me!! :thumbdwn:

As an extension off Moggytech's good guide to winter prep, use the aircon regularly especially when it's raining, the dehumidifier still works when the heating control is turned up so it will stop misting windows if the car is full off heavy breathing family.

Air Conditioning means what it says, it will warm the car as well as cool it in summer.

paint protection? Been waxing mine ready for the crappy weather

... I fitted a MONSTER battery to the VRs a few months back. 680AMP cold Crank, 82Ah Calcium Tech. Not cheap at £99, but boy it starts fast

What make is it?

I have wondered about buying a pair or set of wheels so that I can fit winter tyres to them. This is after my experience of how bad Goodyear F1 GSD3 tyres are on snow/slush/frost. They simply don't mix. :thumbdwn: What are T1-Rs like in winter? I bought mine just after the snow melted and gone.

Moved to gen car chat, as a good guide for all cars.

1. scrape all snow etc off windows as by using your windscreen wipers to try and clear it off first thing will damage either the blades or the motor.

2. start the car with the lights and blowers off to use minimuim of battery

3. regularly check the tyre pressures.

4. give the car a good coat of wax and it shoudl protect the car for most of the winter period.

Keep a good check on lights as they are used much more often in the winter. Dad and me regularly check our lights each week.

Obvious one really to follow on from that, but so many people seem to forget it: When you're scraping the frost/snow from your windows, don't forget to give all the lights a going over too!

Does anybody change their wheels in the winter on their VRS? what do they handle like in snow?

The Octavia vRS isn't very good at all really, so I used these to good effect last winter. They were amazing and allowed me to easily get up very steep hills here in Scarborough - Olivers Mount if you're familiar with the area - and people were amazed. I was asked if the car was 4x4 by one onlooker.

Tyres. 3mm minimum tread. 1.6mm is the legal limit, but you really need 3mm or more for winter use.

Edit: Have anti freeze level checked.

Thanks, useful post. I was going to get two of my tyres changed tomorrow (putting all-season Nokians on, intend to keep them on all year in future) because they are almost down to the limit, but I might consider changing all four now because the better two aren't that far behind, not down to legal limit but definately lower than 3mm.

Why 3mm though? I'm just curious as to why this is the recommended figure? Why not 2mm, or 4mm? Is this just the accepted wisdom, or have there been tests etc to determine this?

As for anti-freeze, do you mean fluid level check, or cold protection check (i.e. freezing point)? Or both?!

Cheers,

Richard.

Thanks, useful post. I was going to get two of my tyres changed tomorrow (putting all-season Nokians on, intend to keep them on all year in future) because they are almost down to the limit, but I might consider changing all four now because the better two aren't that far behind, not down to legal limit but definately lower than 3mm.

Why 3mm though? I'm just curious as to why this is the recommended figure? Why not 2mm, or 4mm? Is this just the accepted wisdom, or have there been tests etc to determine this?

As for anti-freeze, do you mean fluid level check, or cold protection check (i.e. freezing point)? Or both?!

Cheers,

Richard.

The AA recommend changing at 2mm for the UK, whereas the magazine Autoexpress did some tests to show performance dropped off significantly below 3mm for some tyres. How to keep your tyres safe | Buying | Auto Express

In countries where winter tyres are a legal requirement, such as Finland, the tyre must have a tread of around 4mm depth (amongst other requirements).

I always change mine at 3mm but have never used winter specific tyres.

Keep a good check on lights as they are used much more often in the winter. Dad and me regularly check our lights each week.

should be part of your daily checks before you take the car out along with tyres, washers, windscreen, mirrors, oil, water, fuel, electrics.

My car handily told me all by itself that my front healdight went out on the way to work this morning,

I wont be changing my wheels or anything like that! The tyres are new - Probably done a thousand miles!

I'll be switching to plenty of winter screen wash, as soon as it starts going on mainstream sale.

The car is due a service before we should get any horrible weather - I always try and get this done!

Ive always got abit of deicer with me - Infact, a can has been sat in the glove box all summer. But i end up grabbing afew big cans and chuck them in the boot!

Quite tempted to get an all over cover for the car. Normally we stick sheets on the front screen but I think a waterproof cover would be cool. Does anyone use one? Seen some go on ebay for £30 or so