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Who said the Fabia vRS couldnt get below 6 seconds 0-60?


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red = standart made in the morning when it was cool

green = remaped without the intake in the early afternoon .

all dynos where done without the intake , on 1 of the newest dyno in germany . 1 waltz dyno

my fab is from april and the software from a february one didnt work ..... so we had to make a complete new one .

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I see another "stock" car on there making 195bhp....... would love to get mine on the rollers to see where it is.

As i have said many times before if you want to think you have 190hp stock take it to a generous dyno. If you want stock figures put it on a dyno dynamics.

Here's a question for you guys if you put your stock vRS on dyno dynamics rollers, and made 178hp(180ps) and then ran it on a different rolling road and made 195hp. Which would you quote if someone asked you and why. I would always quote the lower personally or the closest to the stated output.

What I find strange is that your remap has only yielded 14hp peak gains which is tiny and 20hp midrange. Mine yielded 30hp peak with 60+ in the mid range. Your mapped figures look about right but your stock doesnt. Your stock reading is pretty much 20-30hp up on both my stock dyno graphs from 2 different rolling roads but torque is the same pretty much as mine

I accept all cars will differ slightly some will perform high, some low but thats one hel of a difference even with dyno lottery.

Im ever the conspiracy theorist lol.

How was the car mapped. On the dyno, on the road or both

Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk

Edited by janner_Sy
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lol.... I always wonder why "wheel horsepower" isn't whats the important figure, but hey , everyone may expand on figures....

but si, your 178 (ish haven't checked the figure) was on quite a new car, I know mine is much better at 12k, than it was at 1k... the fuel economy figures prove its more run in, yours may be due an extra 10 bhp after 10k? :)

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my car has 3500 and feels no different to when it was mapped at 800miles. Jasons boc had about 15k on the clock and made less so I srptill don't buy the extra power. Not 10hp anyway

Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk

Edited by janner_Sy
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GPS doesnt instantly update depending on the quality of system depends on how often they update

GPS also is never 100% accurate

The 200mph bike club run events where bikes are timed through a speed trap they see 14mph difference at 200mph between the actual speed and the gps speed

Might as well use a stopwatch and a speedo

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GPS doesnt instantly update depending on the quality of system depends on how often they update

GPS also is never 100% accurate

The 200mph bike club run events where bikes are timed through a speed trap they see 14mph difference at 200mph between the actual speed and the gps speed

Might as well use a stopwatch and a speedo

I had a GPS based Racelogic performance box which updated every 1/10th of a second, was accurate to 0.1kph/0.1mph and over 400m was accurate to 10cm - guaranteed by the maker.Some of these boxes are accurate to 0.02 second and 0.01kph/mph. These instruments are VERY accurate nowadays. A speed trap is based on laser technology and has been proven to be innacurate depending on how you point it at the target and how well trained/steady handed the operator is! B)

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  • 5 years later...

Probably quite, but if .2 to .5 seconds out then not... you should get that if the TC is on and the tyres do not spin, 

if they did spin then the TC can slow you down.

 

?

Are your ballast weights off the rear so that the front is not going light under acceleration?

 

Why not to 62 mph / 100km/h ?   What has 60 mph to do with anything?

What do you get in 'D' to 60 mph?

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/204578-your-vrs-ii-0-6-times 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/209657-14tsi-14-mile-leaderboard 

 

I spotted this posted last year,

lots of wheel spin in 'S', and the speed is no use for going be the time to 60 as they usually are not accurate unless you have yours by tyre size reading as the speed really is.

 

Edited by Awayoffski
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What surface, that high grip european tarmac by chance? Avoiding TC seems to be the key, I suspect shortshifting to 2nd at 6k and 3rd at 6.5k might be slightly quicker that the red line, if only because triggering a manual shift, at least with mine, makes more of a bang shift where the auto rides the clutch a bit.

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Not sure if it's THAT high grip european tarmac. It just was a road in Germany lol. TC is cutting power a lot. You'll feel that when accelerating and turning it off while accelerating but only on low gears where the car would wheel spin.

 

Shortshifting indeed has it's effect. When shortshifting I am quicker to 60mph but the gap to 0-100 km/h or say those least 2.5 mph is bigger. Usually the gap is around 0.1 to max. 0.2 seconds but here, as you may see in the picture I've posted, the gap is much bigger, almost 0.4 seconds lol. With some even better tyres (Yokohama, Semi Slicks) I have (Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 3) I guess I am able to get below 6.0 seconds to 60 mph, maybe 5.95 or something like that. Had a little bit wheel spin on first gear.

 

I am recommending the 34H5 gearbox service campaign. Car's shifting now a lot of faster:

 

https://streamable.com/e5wm6

 

https://streamable.com/1ggd6

 

Cheers

 

 

Edit: Ha, had a good idea. How about talking to a tuner who knows how to remap a Twincharger and saying to him he should limit the revs to 6.200 rpms just for gear 1 to 3 :-)

Edited by ElectricalVRS
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  • 11 months later...

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