Jump to content

FUBAR

Recommended Posts

Wouldn't mind trying some off road riding one day but it's just a case of finding somewhere to do it.

The bike situation as I alluded to earlier is looking good. It happened to pop up on Auto Trader when I was fiddling with options and could swear it wasn't there before. It's an SV650S (with full fairing) with one owner and not many miles. Very clean and standard with FSH. From the pictures it looked great but wanted to be sure. So with my old man we went up for a look. The 2.5 hour drive was worth it. Looks really looked after and was taken as a part ex when the old owner wanted something faster. The only thing I would change is the tank protector which is starting to peel away, probably because of the cold.

Even though it's a main dealer for a manufacturer it is small and there's only one main salesman who is on holiday and not back until Saturday. He'll phone me then where I'll ask a few more questions and try to get a bit off the price even though it's reasonable. Comes back clear on HPI too. This is going to be a long week. :D

Made room in the garage just need to sort out my tools. I've seen how it's done but how often do chains need adjusting? Also what chain oil is recommended?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wouldn't mind trying some off road riding one day but it's just a case of finding somewhere to do it.

The bike situation as I alluded to earlier is looking good. It happened to pop up on Auto Trader when I was fiddling with options and could swear it wasn't there before. It's an SV650S (with full fairing) with one owner and not many miles. Very clean and standard with FSH. From the pictures it looked great but wanted to be sure. So with my old man we went up for a look. The 2.5 hour drive was worth it. Looks really looked after and was taken as a part ex when the old owner wanted something faster. The only thing I would change is the tank protector which is starting to peel away, probably because of the cold.

Even though it's a main dealer for a manufacturer it is small and there's only one main salesman who is on holiday and not back until Saturday. He'll phone me then where I'll ask a few more questions and try to get a bit off the price even though it's reasonable. Comes back clear on HPI too. This is going to be a long week. :D

Made room in the garage just need to sort out my tools. I've seen how it's done but how often do chains need adjusting? Also what chain oil is recommended?

Sounds like a plan! Any link to the bike ad or pics? Can't think that many bike places are shifting much at moment should leave you in a good position to haggle a little, I would be inclined to haggle a few quid off but look for things thrown in like some oil few tins of chin lub & cleaner, anything you can think of really. Based on miles etc check and see if bike is due some more expensive service items and get them done or a chunk off to do yourself. If tyres are anything other than 3/4 new I would ask them changed personally as they are not the most expensive things in world to a dealer.

I use Castrol Chain Wax in winter and rainy times (seems to do a good jub but is messy and can fling a bit off)

I use Wurth Dry Lube for summer.

Chain I would personally just keep a good eye on and when its too slack (by manufacturers limits or close to getting there) adjust then. Will depend on quality of chain, age, and how power is pushed through it :D. Once its adjusted as far back as wheel wants to go your wanting a new one and a good look at sprockets front and back to check them out. A chain brush is handy to have so you can clean chain down every so often so not to build up too much crap that might stick to the lube.

I use one like this off ebay good solid wee brush http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4d09ff16df

A lot of people in this thread can advise you a lot better than me though! I will watch and try to pick some tips up myself now :D

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the manuals normally say to check chain tension about every 100 miles and adjust as necessary, but should only need to adjust ocassionally. I have always used a spray on chain wax, never had any problems with it. If it doesn't have a centre stand then I'd invest in a rear paddock stand, makes cleaning and adjusting the cahin so much easier.

I had a half faired Sv650S as my first bike, lovely little thing which handled really well, enough power to enjoy but not stupidly high to get you into too much trouble.

Enjoy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it doesn't have a centre stand then I'd invest in a rear paddock stand, makes cleaning and adjusting the cahin so much easier.

Good thinking batman! You just reminded me, I need to get some bobbins and a cheap ish set of stands for mine chain wants adjusted a bit more now and that is also a pain in the ring with no centre or paddock stands! I have been spoilt with centre stands and only other bike I needed paddock stand for was the gixxer...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another vote for castrol chain wax or tecflo chain wax, as been said they do fling off a fair bit but less than silkolene lubes and wax imo.

Use a very fine bristled brush to clean chain before applying wax as a heavy bristled one could possibly damage the o-rings in the chain.

Also might be worthwhile checking if the chain has a tight spot in it, if it does budget for a new chain and sprocket set. Tight drivechains can knacker gearbox output bearing and bend output shaft if incorrectly adjusted.

I normally check and adjust chains every 4-500 miles, slightly less if bike been used in wet weather.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's these sorts of questions I want to ask especially about servicing. I know it's got 9mths MOT left on it and according to the DVLA it's still taxed. Normally that's the first thing people cash in when part-exing.

media4_zpsef2e1812.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I presume most of you service bikes yourself? Or do you take it to an indy? Of what I've seen on Youtube it's all straightforward. Some things I'll have to to an Indy for like I was considering braided hoses and improving suspension once I get used to it. May get paddock stands if it makes things easier. All depends on what the service history is. Was told it is full history but because the sales man wasn't there they didn't know what was done when etc.

.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have always serviced my own bikes, i'd definitely get a rear paddock stand for starter's. As mentioned before try and get one with forks for bobbins.

Fitting braided hoses is pretty easy, just take your time and be thorough. Avoid anodised ends and banjo bolts, they corrode to buggery in no time. Goodridge and Hel lines come with stainless ends and are quality kit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks nice, what year is it? Road tax is fairly cheap on bikes so I have never bothered getting refund on a disc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://manualedereparatie.info/manuale/Suzuki/Suzuki_SV_650_s_2003_Service_Manual_www.manualedereparatie.info.zip

Click link above to download service manuals for the SV650s (2003) not sure what year too but there is a lot of good info in there to have a look at all you need to do the basics and more yourself. Also good to see when things should have been done so far so you are on top of salesman in case something is due that he fobs off.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's these sorts of questions I want to ask especially about servicing. I know it's got 9mths MOT left on it and according to the DVLA it's still taxed. Normally that's the first thing people cash in when part-exing.

media4_zpsef2e1812.jpg

Looks great :happy: - would be stacks of fun for sure. Not that I'm bias in any way towards V-twins you understand :blush:

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

In case it is of use to anyone here is a site you can download the service manual for most bikes free (except mine)

http://www.manualede...o/en/categorii/

Quoting myself from jan for anyone who missed the link, that site has a shed load of service manuals etc for most bikes for free. The link above is to download one from it there were about 15 entries just for the SV650 alone.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My first up grade on any bike has been the brake lines. Braided steel lines with stainless fittings will last and look better than the rubber ones. Have several friends who learnt how to ride on an SV650 and all have bigger bikes now, and know how to ride.

One thing I've noticed with owning a twin is they tend to wear through the chain quicker than a 4, or maybe it's the amount of abuse my Tuono gets.

Seriously though it looks great and will make a good first bike. :thumbup:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's the plan. Most of the dealers I've talked to about bikes are amazed at how relatively sensible I'm being. Most they see who first pass their test go for something nuts but this won't be slow by any means and to me seems a logical choice. You can have just as much fun in something that handles but doesn't have outright performance than something I could be struggling to keep hold of and for now that doesn't sound fun. If I can learn to ride this well then when I do get a faster bike all I'll have to do is get used to the extra speed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's the plan. Most of the dealers I've talked to about bikes are amazed at how relatively sensible I'm being. Most they see who first pass their test go for something nuts but this won't be slow by any means and to me seems a logical choice. You can have just as much fun in something that handles but doesn't have outright performance than something I could be struggling to keep hold of and for now that doesn't sound fun. If I can learn to ride this well then when I do get a faster bike all I'll have to do is get used to the extra speed.

It's a fairly light bike with a good chunk of torque (fecking twins....) and 69bhp. With say an 80kg rider that's around the 280 bhp per ton mark! Bike on own with no rider 410bhp per ton ish. Impressive figures when comparing to a car always when it comes to bikes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a fairly light bike with a good chunk of torque (fecking twins....) and 69bhp. With say an 80kg rider that's around the 280 bhp per ton mark! Bike on own with no rider 410bhp per ton ish. Impressive figures when comparing to a car always when it comes to bikes.

This is giving me another incentive to lose weight. The lighter I am the better the motorbike and my road bike will be. Only problem will be deciding what to take out on a nice dry day :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is giving me another incentive to lose weight. The lighter I am the better the motorbike and my road bike will be. Only problem will be deciding what to take out on a nice dry day :D

You will soon learn the answer to that question :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Always pack a light waterproof, not just for the rain but also if you're out late and it starts to get cold it'll keep you just that bit warmer. I have a cycling jacket as it has the arm length and comes further down the back for when you're bent over the bars.Depending on what the space under your rear seat it may fit there.

Oh and always have a puncture kit under your seat. Last time I used one I was in the middle of France miles from nowhere, when I got to a town most shops would only fit a new tyre. The puncture still has the repair kit fix and covered another 2000 miles, with some interesting speeds on it :giggle:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really do enjoy cycling and annoyed I haven't done more this year yet. Time and weather have been against me. Last time I went out was after Mod 1 training. Got to the roundabout at the top of my road, went to turn right but turned too much and went back the way I came. It's incredibly sensitive especially come straight off a motorbike. Left it alone until I passed. I don't mind that much riding on colder days. When I did my test it was cold and damp but at no point was I cold. Almost all my training was done in the wet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're planning to do a fair bit of your own maintenance (I'd reccomend it, bikes are generally pretty easy to work on), then take a look at Abba stands rather than conventional paddock stands. They give a very stable support and allow you take off the swing arm or front end whcih are tricky jobs otherwise. They are about the twice the price of a basic rear paddock stand but IMO worth the investment.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

SV650 is a good bike. I know a few very experienced bikes that really rate it. Paddock stand is worth investing in, they're not much and make life easier adjusting the chain if you've no centre stand. Not the easiest things to use the first few times if you're on your own.

Chain wax works fine but oil is better for the chain. If you find you do a lot of miles then a Scot-oiler might be a good purchase.

Since the bike is fully faired you might want to look into some crash bungs just in case you tip it at low speed. Don't get cheap ones.

Used some Helly Hanson thermals under my leathers when it was really cold. If you can keep moving you don't actually get that wet on a bike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.