Lol good man

Its a must with them tubbys to get it right !

Goes like a rocket in first, not quite right in other gears.

Seems to be running lean and does lots of popping on lift-off.

This was more for noise than anything, it picked up the popping at the end.

I get pop on run down on mine too.

I get pop on run down on mine too.

Mine does it all the time. Cruising along and lift of slightly and I get pop pop pop.

This morning I set off, touched throttle and as soon as it hit 2500rpm it was like I stood on the brakes.

Revved fine in neutral and turbo spinning, but with load it was bunny hopping not nice!

Limped home, left for 10 mins while I scanned for codes - none logged.

Noticed oil was on low mark so topped that up. Set off again and it was okay. Still feels like it's holding back or missing in anything other than first.

Sent Ben some logs so hopefully he can make it right.

I'm starting to think about giving in and talking to local tuners for a custom map.

There's one in Auckland who can do that - 700km from me. Or locally there's a company who do good things but would do it by fitting a Link G4 aftermarket ECU, removing the MAF and replacing the N75 with an electronic boost controller. Cool stuff and probably the best option but very pricey.

Boosts:

1.6BAR = 23.6 PSI !

That the car seeing bad knock I bet and closes throttle to help the engine so it don't go bang !!

As you car has a completely different setup to the car it was on before it needs a custom map !!!

Unless you had near identical setup wich you don't buddy !!

Hope you get it sorted

Sent Ben some more logs, hoping what I sent was useful. It's still terrible on cold start - though if I stay under 2500rpm until it warms up it's smooth as.

But once warmed up it's running better now so maybe the ECU learning is improving things.

Trying to do a log to the red line in 3rd is not easy. 100kph speed limit and all.

I also talked to two local tuning companies.

Option 1 - drive 700km to Auckland, pay $1400 (plus about $150/hr for a dyno, or use street logging), drive back.

So 3 days of my time, plus maybe $2k in costs. And I get to do a nice drive.

Option 2 - Link ECU, electronic boost controller, plus dyno tuning. $3500 (!!). Half a day of my time.

More flexibility, 15 mins from home, removal of MAF and N75 completely. But very expensive.

Or keep working with Ben remotely which is a bit of a painstaking process with time difference, Ben being super busy etc. And if it takes much more work, I'll end up paying Shark lots more

I intend to keep the car long term.

Option 3 - refit K03S and bits, forget about everything, have a little sulk

I think I would choose the sulk option, unless u have a few grand burning a hole lol

Option 3 - refit K03S and bits, forget about everything, have a little sulk

Option 3 buddy....

Then send me the hybrid. I will look after it well for you.

Sent from my Galaxy S3.

Just needs live mapping dude with your setup !!

Its hard to map by sending files as it will req lots of backwards and forwards until its perfect

Hi Rob,

I'd grab the credit card and go for option 1 !!!

Craig

Option 3 buddy....

Then send me the hybrid. I will look after it well for you.

Sent from my Galaxy S3.

Haha nice try

I think I would choose the sulk option, unless u have a few grand burning a hole lol

I wish! Can't really afford the hybrid I've bought

Just needs live mapping dude with your setup !!

Its hard to map by sending files as it will req lots of backwards and forwards until its perfect

Agreed - trouble is not many people in NZ have the kit to do it. Hence the above options.

Hi Rob,

I'd grab the credit card and go for option 1 !!!

Craig

It is very tempting!

But then I think, if I'm spending that much maybe I should just go local, then any future tweaks are simple, quick $150 hour on the dyno.

There are other advantages to the Link - I could pretty easily rig up a GTR style dash screen for example

You did miss an option.. I could do with a holiday!

You did miss an option.. I could do with a holiday!

I did think about that. Flying you over would cost about $2k

Can you not remotely live map the car ?

Right software on the remote laptop, good internet connection and VNC remote desktop software

Can you not remotely live map the car ?

Right software on the remote laptop, good internet connection and VNC remote desktop software

We can do it with logs, so it shouldn't be a big problem

Yes that's the ticket Ben get on a plane :-) I'm sure mikko has enough air miles to get you there and back 10times lol

I found this:

Which I think is the source of my poor running issues. I can hear air sucking in!!

Yeah that won't help buddy

Need to make sure that its 100% and no leaks or it will never map correctly.

What is that?

What is that?

Intake air temperature sensor. It bolts into the intake manifold just after the throttle body.

Just picked up a new one. Should be able to test later.

New temp sensor installed. Car was worse! The only thing I hadn't done was change intake manifold gasket. Just done that as I had one spare.

Car seems better on a very quick test. Will drive it more later. Lambda values are still very high.

This is why its not a quick job especially when your so far away

The other issue is that kit is still an unknown quality as billy never used it so going by the word of someone else

The next stage is to rule out hardware issues and make sure its software issue

Is there a dyno you could use for a few hours and send logs etc to shark that way to test maps ?

Bah.

I still don't think the map is the issue at the moment.

When the engine's cold it runs okay up to 2200RPM then coughs and splutters, but if I drop it a couple of gears and get revs over 4000RPM it runs, though is definitely missing.

Once fully warmed up it feels okayish through the rev range but try and get it to accelerate much and it doesn't really want to, and it's spluttering. Big bangs and pops on lift-off.

So it's on my ramps, will re-check all the intercooler pipes and vac pipes, TIP etc.

Fed up now :(

Bah.

I still don't think the map is the issue at the moment.

When the engine's cold it runs okay up to 2200RPM then coughs and splutters, but if I drop it a couple of gears and get revs over 4000RPM it runs, though is definitely missing.

Once fully warmed up it feels okayish through the rev range but try and get it to accelerate much and it doesn't really want to, and it's spluttering. Big bangs and pops on lift-off.

So it's on my ramps, will re-check all the intercooler pipes and vac pipes, TIP etc.

Fed up now :(

pops are usually due to running rich, though can be through running lean too, keep an eye on your oil, as too much running rich can contaminate your fuel and cause bore wash. Smell your oil, if it heavily smells of fuel, it will have been watered down a bit and you will need to change.You def checked the intake gasket etc for leaks etc?

See if you can get a smoke test done on the boost pipework. I thought mine was ok until Clive (mr cntuining) did a smoke test and found multiple leaks.

Really hope you sort this soon, best of luck.