I tried this yesterday on my 97 seat Alhambra 1.9 TDI AFN.

 

I thought everything when well Pipe went down the distance i thought it would.

 

No change plus no smoke out the back. If the cleaner went into the turbo surely it would smoke??

 

These are the errors i'm getting 

 

00519 - Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71) 

            28-10 - Short to Plus - Intermittent

00575 - Intake Manifold Pressure 

            17-00 - Control Difference

 

I'm going to replace the vacuum lines and try switching the N75.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

Need to so this in my Leon fr, where can I get a piece to connect pipe to mr muscle can?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

B&q £0.98 per metre

Just take the spray nozzle off and the pipe fits snugly on to the little bit of plastic tubing coming out of the can then it's just push down and watch the magic fill the tube

Was looking to do this on my Octavia 2009, but slightly different set up from the OP's.

 

Found this ;

 

Bardahl Turbo Cleaner  

 

£52.40 delivered - http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/turbo-additives/bardahl-4777_g900115_a9784777.html

 

More info on this site ; http://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/product.php/706/bardahl-diesel-turbo-cleaner

 

Might help folks unable/unwilling to use Mr.Muscle....?

Hi folks

 

Looking like I need to do this on my 2009 vRS CR170.  Has anyone done it on this engine before.  I dont believe it is a BKD engine as per the original post?

 

In any case, the engine light and coil lights are on when it goes into limp mode......soon after going above certain revs, and the fault code generated is the P0299 low boost pressure fault.........so thinking a good clean out cant hurt, otherwise I'm looking at replacing parts for £££'s.

 

The engine layout seems a lot different than the pics on here so any advice / help / pics greatly appreciated, to make sure I'm doing the right thing!

 

 

Thanks in anticipation.

Edited 28 October, 201411 yr by kwak7

I have read this thread with great interest.  I do not have a Skoda, I have an A class Mercedes which has done 90,000 miles and is absolutely hopeless on the motorway. No pulling power in 6 & 7 at 65 - 70 mph.

 

I was thinking of trying the Mr Muscle treatment as well as cleaning the ERG to try and improve performance.

 

I have a Garret turbo but it is upside down with the exhaust manifold below the turbo so if Mr M was injected it would be impossible to stop it running down to the head.

 

I was wondering if I connected my wet Vax to the exhaust tail pipe so the foam was drawn through the exhaust system and therefore potentially less Mr M going down towards the head if this would be a good solution.

 

I was also wondering if the O2 sensor and the catalyst would be affected.

 

I was also wondering if there may be some benefits doing this way as the turbo would probably be spinning and therefore the Mr M would be guaranteed of covering and cleaning all the internal parts of the exhaust side of the turbo plus sucking new full strength Mr M through the turbo and removing debris at the same time.

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.  Many thanks in anticipation.

Hi all, 1st time user so please bare with me.

I am having the limp mode issue when on the motorway on incline or with load in the car.

All the posts seem similar to the issue I'm having.

What I want to know is if this will work with a 2009 passat 2.0 TDI Bluemotion with DPF??? It's a CR engine.

I don't think I will be able to get it through the egr cooler as it seems too complicated. I will try and get Mr Muscle applied directly to the turbo.

In relation to the actuator. ..my mechanic says that the one I have is electronically controlled. Can I still move it up and down as suggested by the OP?

thanks in advance for the help.

Edited 15 January, 201511 yr by Nasif

Hi lofty I'm wanting to attempt this on my vw transporter 54 plate I bought it the other day and it's been in limp mode since I've changed the maf sensor and cleaned the erg out! next step is turbo off but I thought I'd give this a try in hope that I don't have to take the turbo off! I can take the erg pipe off only so far down then I can't see the bolts like in your photo. Can I feed the pipe from there as it doesn't look like I can disconnect any further down? Also how far should the pipe drop into the turbo!? Going to attempt tomoz so any advice would be much appreciated!

Thanks

Tom

Just to add....I have done the this treatment to the letter...WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER!! 

 

I had a issue with loss of power and lumpy driving (No Limp Issues).

 

When accelerating and hitting boost the car would vibrate and judder through trh boost was really not a nice feeling or sound. 

 

Decided to clean the turbo with Mr Muscle......Issue has gonna tho i still get  little judder oj boost tho no where near in comparison to beforehand and the car runs alot better and smoother with the boost delivery smoooooth and consistent.

 

Tho I haven't got all the power back yet the main issue of its driving like a bag of **** is gone! Just the boost leak to sort now

 

So thnak you OP! For £6 and your guide iv just saved a fortune!!  

Hello everyone, I was just wondering if anyone had any instructions or tips for the PD150 version of this? Been reading every post to get some hints and it sounds like a ball ache... Lofty has done an awesome job with the Skoda version I have a mate thats done this on his Audi A3 BKD and had cracking results but can anyone help on the 150? 

As no one has mentioned new gaskets apart from Haynes, I assume they are not required if you are careful on removal?

Do you need to regrease the gaskets on reassembly?

Please can someone tell me how to sort out the nozzle. I just couldn't get the stuff to go down the aquarium pipe.

Frustrated is an under statement, I tried 3/4 different nozzles. Grrrr

Please can someone tell me how to sort out the nozzle. I just couldn't get the stuff to go down the aquarium pipe.

Frustrated is an under statement, I tried 3/4 different nozzles. Grrrr

I didnt use a nozzle buddy, I just put the pipe over the bare "point" of the can and used pliers to push down. No problems.

As no one has mentioned new gaskets apart from Haynes, I assume they are not required if you are careful on removal?

Do you need to regrease the gaskets on reassembly?

Change the EGR pipe gaskets at each end as they didn't cost alot and the EGR has like a o-ring gasket which should be fine to reuse if you are careful. I didn't have a issue reusing.

I didnt use a nozzle buddy, I just put the pipe over the bare "point" of the can and used pliers to push down. No problems.

Cheers bud, il give it a go  :clap: . Any idea how i can undo the alan key bolts under the egr. Last time i undone the pipe on top of the turbo and levered it up enough to get the pipe down, not brilliant and would be so much easier with the whole pipe off. I have tried alan keys, but could not get any to fit.

Cheers bud, il give it a go  :clap: . Any idea how i can undo the alan key bolts under the egr. Last time i undone the pipe on top of the turbo and levered it up enough to get the pipe down, not brilliant and would be so much easier with the whole pipe off. I have tried alan keys, but could not get any to fit.

6mm allen bolt, best to use a 3/8" socket with the 6mm key in it.

More leverage than with an allen key and make sure you apply WD40 a couple of hours beforehand.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hex-allen-key-bit-socket-3-8-drive-6mm-Endura-brand-industrial-quality-S2-CrV-/371246710971?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item56700740bb

Re gaskets, instant gasket/silicone seal will do the job.

Can anyone say how easy/difficult this is on a BKC engine?

6mm allen bolt, best to use a 3/8" socket with the 6mm key in it.

More leverage than with an allen key and make sure you apply WD40 a couple of hours beforehand.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hex-allen-key-bit-socket-3-8-drive-6mm-Endura-brand-industrial-quality-S2-CrV-/371246710971?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item56700740bb

As Jack said...I made the mistake of spending 45 mins fiddling trying to get it back in before the light build went off and I used a socket extender.

6mm allen bolt, best to use a 3/8" socket with the 6mm key in it.

More leverage than with an allen key and make sure you apply WD40 a couple of hours beforehand.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hex-allen-key-bit-socket-3-8-drive-6mm-Endura-brand-industrial-quality-S2-CrV-/371246710971?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item56700740bb

Thanks for the help. I will try it this week, keep your fingers crossed!

Got the Mr Muscle and tubing. B&Q £4.78 all in.

Will guve this a go tomorrow and report back!

Egr cooler ...... PITA.

Got it done though no thanks to my socket set. Cheap **** disibtigrated on me! Had to cycle 4 mile up the road to get another.

Actuator was easy enough to pump and dud loosen a goid bit more. Started up once finished and no issues tho a slight louder whine from the turbo when revving will take it a rake later.

Ok so started off slow to heat it up and the turbo was whining like a banshee. Big straight road once at temp, revs way up. Limp mode kicked in and now an engine light. Stopped, sat for a mo cursing it up and down, restarted.

BRILLIANT!! Working a treat! Tho will get engine light checked out but its not noisey or anything!

Well impressed

Ok so started off slow to heat it up and the turbo was whining like a banshee. Big straight road once at temp, revs way up. Limp mode kicked in and now an engine light. Stopped, sat for a mo cursing it up and down, restarted.

BRILLIANT!! Working a treat! Tho will get engine light checked out but its not noisey or anything!

Well impressed

Got the Mr Muscle and tubing. B&Q £4.78 all in.

Will guve this a go tomorrow and report back!

What diameter tubing?