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The Mr Muscle VNT Turbo Treatment - thought we needed a guide of sorts

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Nope, i recon you havent done it properly.

 

100% sure it was right in the turbo???

 

2hrs?????

 

repeatedly pump actuator????

 

red line in second when warm????

 

All crucial, and i doubt new turbo will be needed, only situation this is needed is seizure or oil seal blow by

Edited by Lofty79

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  • Right i know the engine, i did this treatment on a passat set up similarly. Egr on front of engine, pipe goes to right and around the back to the cooler. Underneath the cooler is a small version of th

  • Your welcome mate, dont forget credit to bendy sue my original pipe and elbow, the one i did my first limp vnt with. Glad that did the trick too, towing will always instigate a limp if there is one t

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Hi all.

I eventually decided to Mr Muscle my ASV turbo (03 Estate) as I'm fed up with the car going limp. After 3 hours of trying to get the egr bolts undone (and losing 3of 4 allen bits that fell in to the engine bay) I swore a lot and called it a day. I did, however, get the lower nuts off relatively easily, leaving the threaded studs in situ. What concerns me is that had I managed to get the egr bolts out how would I get the pipe over the lower studs ? A photo at the begining of this thread showed no studs and therefore easy removal of the pipe. So, 2 questions :

1/ How do you remove the egr bolts ?

2/ How do you get the pipe off when the studs are still screwed in ?

As always any help/advice much appreciated (especially if it saves me the price of a new or recon turbo).

Regards Rob

bump

bump

Apologies for this.....

 

I drive a Mondeo....gasp, burn the witch!...lol

 

I did my TDCi 170K 55 plate yesterday (after dicking about for months)..

 

I had drilled and tapped a hole so all i had to do was spray in the cleaner...

 

Ive joined the Mr Muscle club

 

The hole had been drilled ages ago

 

I got (id say) 1/2 to 3/4 of a can in and it was coming back out the hole so i left it at that

 

I had removed the big intake pipe and the turbo-actuator arm was off

 

in went the mr muscle and i started moving the arm at the same time as gently moving the impeller side (hopefully to circulate foam amongst the exhaust turbine and VNT ring/blades), after MINUTES the arm went free and floppy

 

drawing the pipe out revealed black muck at the end

 

ive put everything back, removed the sanding disc that was sitting on the air filter (dont ask)

 

so at about 12.30 ill try to start her up....

 

 

If I had known about P132B faults and how taking the arm off could have got me along for a while id not have spent £45 on Innotec or £80 at the local garage letting them try it which shagged an injector somehow and ended up with me out of action for 2 days paying a subby £120 and swad diesels £900 for 4 recon injectors...

 

£1145..............

 

 

done, almost perfect (as perfect at 175,000 miles as can be), blew crap out from the start, went 7 miles with stops/boot/starts and it feels fine, got a stutter at 2000 rpm, which is usually the EGR

 

phew

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.talkford.com/topic/215546-turbo-housing-mod-for-p132b-fault/

 

 

 

 

970498_646127935400124_2051433246_n.jpg

Edited by lichfielddriver

The dealer will replace the turbo instead of cleaning it, as specified by Skoda.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

A main stealer with a factory warranty will go the £1200 new turbo route, your in luck really!

Nope, i recon you havent done it properly.

 

100% sure it was right in the turbo???

 

2hrs?????

 

repeatedly pump actuator????

 

red line in second when warm????

 

All crucial, and i doubt new turbo will be needed, only situation this is needed is seizure or oil seal blow by

 

Hi Lofty, I was able to check off all your stages except the "red line in second"   I forgot that part of the process. Do I have to go through the process again (my mechanic/best mate will kill me) ??

Oh why does the fault never happen when you take the car into the dealer?????? I then drove the car around for an hour after picking it up and still no fault. I bet next week on the way home from work it will appear again. then straight off to the dealer to confirm the fault!!!!!! 

  • Author

Hi all.I eventually decided to Mr Muscle my ASV turbo (03 Estate) as I'm fed up with the car going limp. After 3 hours of trying to get the egr bolts undone (and losing 3of 4 allen bits that fell in to the engine bay) I swore a lot and called it a day. I did, however, get the lower nuts off relatively easily, leaving the threaded studs in situ. What concerns me is that had I managed to get the egr bolts out how would I get the pipe over the lower studs ? A photo at the begining of this thread showed no studs and therefore easy removal of the pipe. So, 2 questions :1/ How do you remove the egr bolts ?2/ How do you get the pipe off when the studs are still screwed in ?As always any help/advice much appreciated (especially if it saves me the price of a new or recon turbo).Regards Rob

If your having that much trouble maybe just try taking exhaust off and spraying it in directly.

The studs are supposed to remain there mine didnt, but if its undone at both ends it shouldn't be hard to remove.

Hi All,I had the limp mode problem on my 2007 octavia 1.9tdi BXE engine,and after trying a Ebay bluetooth obd2 dongle with Torque app i eventually had to clear the famous emissions workshop on the display, the cause was boost over pressure, so i went for a blast and monitored it on the app it was max of 22.3 psi, so decided to go mr muscle route, the problem was access to turbo,so asked at local exhaust fitter's the best way to remove pipe, who told me that they wouldn't entertain changing the front pipe, so debated even more about the procedure ! anyway as problem still persisted decided to bite the bullet, first step was to put car on ramps,problem 1, ramps to steep for low profile car so had to adapt bits of timber, then after removing the belly tray all became clear, this looked fairly straight forward, unscrew clamp to exhaust/turbo (easy access) little bit difficult to remove clamp as stuck to pipe but quick hit with hammer and length of threaded bar it was off, pipe was then easily removed after that simply place cover over turbo and fill with Mr muscle, connected syringe to Wastegate and kept  plunging to be honest after 2 hours didn't feel much different, but decided to go for a spin and guess what no limp mode, checked the boost pressure and went to 16psi but would then fall back to around 14psi with same revs when accelerating onto motorway so presume Wastegate working better? 


So Thanks to Lofty for all the advice,incidentally most local garages laughed at the idea when approached and as most people have said 'Needs diagnostics and probably new Turbo'


Photo's available just pm me


Eddie

most local garages laughed at the idea when approached and as most people have said 'Needs diagnostics and probably new Turbo'

 

 

My local garage 1st took my Innotec kit and the car came back running on 3 cylinders (£900 for three recons then fitted...not by them)

 

Monday the same place checked my front strut (needs a new top bearing) and laughed about Mr Muscle.....but it worked

 

To do mine now takes 30 minutes from start to finish, i keep mr muscle ready, £4 vs £600 for a turbo, ill even schedule it for once a month, limp mode or not

 

I drilled my Mondeo manifold, this guy removes the intake side, different strokes for different folks...

 

www.talkford.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=134145

Edited by lichfielddriver

Attempted this again the other day, this time making sure to get plenty of Mr Muscle IN the turbo and pumping the actuator every few minutes for two hours (my poor thumb). Went out, got the thermostat to the middle driving normally and then went to an industrial estate and went around in second in the high rev range for a while. All seemed fine, until the other day I helped a friend moved house, piled a load of stuff into the back of my car with the seats down and him and myself in the front. Turbo went a few times on that 12 mile trip. Think I'll need to get my turbo reconditioned/replaced? Any input welcomed and appreciated!

  • Author

have you had the codes read? it could be the MAP or MAF

Is the MAP the boost pressure sensor??

I spent the best part of 2 hours hooning around on the red line in 2nd 3rd and 4th, no problems. But in 5th and 6th it will still go into limp. I am going to replace the MAP and MAF before I try Mr Muscle because I nearly lost the will to live pumping the f*****g actuator!!!

I have also decided to start ragging the car up through the gears like I used to because I am sure at this stage that driving these Diesels easy is bad for them.

(586,000kms and rising)

Tapatalk'd from my HTC SXE

Hello.

I've got a 2008 Vw Passat 1.9 TDI (BXE) going into limp mode. Could you please tell me if mr muscle would work on this type of engine/turbo?!

Hello.

I've got a 2008 Vw Passat 1.9 TDI (BXE) going into limp mode. Could you please tell me if mr muscle would work on this type of engine/turbo?!

 

as in all cases, you need a diagnostic first of all, then see whats at fault

This is my first post, although I did check out this site prior to purchasing my car and found it very useful indeed.

OK. So am pretty sure I have this issue. I bought my 2.0TDI DSG Octavia last Friday and everything has been fantastic until this evening. Having driven down (literally downhill) the mile or so of the M606 at the stipulated 50MPH on the Cruise Control I then attempted to accelerate up the slip road onto the M62, pretty standard incline for a slip road. The car got to 50 and then refused to go any higher, there was only me, the wife and my 11 yr old son in the car. When I finally got to the flatter section it very slowly accelerated up to 70MPH, with my foot flat to the floor. The DSG box did kick down but there was nothing there. On the way home I deliberately floored it on the slip road back onto the M62 to see if the same would happen again and sure enough the car just seemed to stop accelerating at 50MPH but then once on the downhill section it slowly accelerated up to 70. Definitely felt like no turbo available for the rest of the journey home.

Do I have this problem? I have revved the car with no load and I think I can hear a rush of air. Is a leaky pipe more likely the cause.

Of course the problem is it is dark and it's difficult to spot anything right now. Is there a simple way to check for the vanes being sticky?

Is there anyone in the Bradford/Halifax area who would be willing to help me with this?

Thanks in advance for any help received.

Just thought I should add it's a 55 plate Tourer with 102k miles on it.

Can anyone in the cheshire arse help me do this please? I'm at the end of my tether with this car :@ will give you some money!

This is my first post, although I did check out this site prior to purchasing my car and found it very useful indeed. OK. So am pretty sure I have this issue. I bought my 2.0TDI DSG Octavia last Friday and everything has been fantastic until this evening. Having driven down (literally downhill) the mile or so of the M606 at the stipulated 50MPH on the Cruise Control I then attempted to accelerate up the slip road onto the M62, pretty standard incline for a slip road. The car got to 50 and then refused to go any higher, there was only me, the wife and my 11 yr old son in the car. When I finally got to the flatter section it very slowly accelerated up to 70MPH, with my foot flat to the floor. The DSG box did kick down but there was nothing there. On the way home I deliberately floored it on the slip road back onto the M62 to see if the same would happen again and sure enough the car just seemed to stop accelerating at 50MPH but then once on the downhill section it slowly accelerated up to 70. Definitely felt like no turbo available for the rest of the journey home. Do I have this problem? I have revved the car with no load and I think I can hear a rush of air. Is a leaky pipe more likely the cause. Of course the problem is it is dark and it's difficult to spot anything right now. Is there a simple way to check for the vanes being sticky? Is there anyone in the Bradford/Halifax area who would be willing to help me with this? Thanks in advance for any help received.

Sounds more like "limp mode". Does it stop reving when you hit about 2.5K in any gear on the flat. - You need to get someone local to scan and clear any errors. 

Sounds more like "limp mode". Does it stop reving when you hit about 2.5K in any gear on the flat. - You need to get someone local to scan and clear any errors. 

It has only done it that one evening. It has driven flawlessly at all other times and revs freely up to the red line.

 

Could I have accidentally set it to have a maximum speed of 50MPH? On both occasions it accelerated fine up to 50 but then refused to go over it. I know some cars can have the max speed set. Mind you once off the motorway it drove as if there was no turbo.

 

As you say I will have to get it scanned and see what comes from that.

Another very very happy driver! Car always went into limp mode when I put my foot down in 3rd 5th or 6th did the mr muscle today when it came and I can say it feels like a different car. Did everything that was said on here and went in the exhaust side. Even though my knuckles are half gone it was totally worth it! Pick ups great, no over boost now limp mode, no getting rid of the car! Can't thank lofty enough!

Lofty can you please tell me what's attached to the elbow you fitted to the can, the red bit on the end of the can?

Hey guys, this might be a stupid question but I'm not very mechanical. My 1.9TDI O2 has the limp mode problem since a couple of months. I have 175000 km on the car. At first the problem was only when I passed other cars and pushed her hard in 4th gear. The problem resolved when I stopped and started the car again. The garage told me it was a problem with the air inlet valves and they replaced them but the motor light is still on. They said that it would be the turbo then and it was probably the turbo that damaged the inlet valve?

The engine light stays on but today I tried pushing the car to it's limits and it ran fine. The only problem is the light that stays on. Maybe I got lucky today :-) I will try again later.

Is it normal that the engine light stays on even after switching the engine off with the limp mode issue or is there likely some other issue. I also have a broken compressor on the airco system, could this cause an engine light?

Thanks in advance for any help.

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