Fabia Vrs Oil Fix

[Ootohere]

When someone is really bothered,

you choose a Dealers Open day, or just any Saturday or Sunday.

 fill your car with balloons,

Buy some helium filled balloons and attach them to the car,

drive up and park over the front door of the Dealership,

Put up your prepared sign saying 'This Dealership sells faulty cars'.

'Skoda  will sell you a car and not repair it properly', or the likes.

 

If a few owners feel the same,  then take several cars.

If you have not the nerve to do it on the Dealerships ground, the Public road outside will be near enough,

& no real reason for the Police to be called.

 

Call the local Radio Station & Local news paper, freelancers etc, take some pictures and send them to the national press.

 

Media coverage is not difficult to get, and it is better than driving a car through the showroom window,

which i imagine many have wanted to do.

 

george

[Sparkly]

When someone is really bothered,

you choose a Dealers Open day, or just any Saturday or Sunday.

 fill your car with balloons,

Buy some helium filled balloons and attach them to the car,

drive up and park over the front door of the Dealership,

Put up your prepared sign saying 'This Dealership sells faulty cars'.

'Skoda  will sell you a car and not repair it properly', or the likes.

 

If a few owners feel the same,  then take several cars.

If you have not the nerve to do it on the Dealerships ground, the Public road outside will be near enough,

& no real reason for the Police to be called.

 

Call the local Radio Station & news paper freelancers, take some pictures and send them to the national press.

 

Media coverage is not difficult to get, and it is better than driving a car through the showroom window,

which i imagine many have wanted to do.

 

george

Amazing Recipe for Success

Take a pinch of the above advice add a dash of the thread listing members with the same issue.

Stir up interest in an impromptu Briskoda Meet at Skoda UK HQ

Sprinkle some media interest, fresh watchdog for that added kick if you have it.

And leave to marinade

[desciple0]

hi just an update from my earlier post they say that my consumption test isn't as bad as they thought after doing 600 miles they say its .4 of a litre to 1000km around 600 miles so there saying its ok i am not so sure.

the really interesting thing was when i took it last week for the oil test he had that much faith he asked me to sign a form to say that i wouldn't blow the engine up lol.

now thats got to be faith (not).

Edited 10 November, 2013 by desciple0

[Ootohere]

621 miles, near enough 600.

 

So they think that someone doing 12,000 miles a year is going to spend on around 8 litres of oil between Oil & filter changes that needs 3.6 litres.

so around £120 a year for oil.

 

Did they weigh the oil or measure by how much they topped up or both?

How old is the car and how many miles has it done?

 

 

????

Where is the oil on the dipstick with a hot check, after they had checked and topped up?

 

EDIT, i see your post now #757

[desciple0]

this was the figures for my first oil consumption test i asked for a copy.

 

oil weight before drive test including container 3100g   3028g

drained oil weight after test including identical container 2950g 2833g

 

weight difference after driving 300km 3100-2950=150g   195

oil volume calculation based on weight difference and specific weight 0.29ltr /1000km

 

result of oil consumption model test 0.5361/1000km   0.29ltr.

 

 

copied off my sheet i can't make heads or tales of the figures lol.

Edited 10 November, 2013 by desciple0

[Ootohere]

Thanks for that, you are truly wonderful.

at least the oil weights are correct for a vRS.

 

unlike the one i posted earlier in this thread. with the weight all wrong. post #758

There they have 1 litre weighing about 1000 g, and they say 3.6 litres is 3643 grams.

I hope the member that paid for his test gets a refund and compensation.

 

there they had his 3.6 litres if that what they had in weighing 3643 grams before & 3565 Grams after test.

78 Gram difference

 

Yours is nearer the correct weight if 1 litre is a 856 Grams @ 15*oC.

So 3.6 litres @ 15*oC would be pretty close to 3081.6, or the 3100g they say with you, but they say that is in a container.

 

'3028 grams'  before the test. '2833 grams' after.  thats without the container weight. 195 grams difference.

STRANGE IS THE INCLUDING CONTAINER 3100g before 2950g after, difference 150G

Very handy round numbers, like someone wants it easy to calculate.

 

** ODD THING IS THE FIGURES 150 g & 195 **,  

 

Where are they in the UK getting off doing the mileage in Kilometers rather than miles,

them taking the mileage of a car, then converting to Metric.

 

and then using short distances and multiplying to get results,

when you are draining oil, multiplying the measured loss,

the accuracy is just crazy,  it is easy to get 0.4 litres as a figure,

which if covering a long distance or lots of short runs can be 0.5, 0.6 or what ever.

[Ootohere]

bump so that JVicker92 can read this.

 

see post #758 & #780 on Oil Tests.

[vxh26]

Hi

 

I apologise if there is an unequivocal answer amongst the 782 posts in this thread but life is too short for me to wade through all the stuff discussing how tests are carried out, the weight of oil, etc., etc.  The opening post seemed to suggest that Skoda fixed this problem more than a year ago (October 2012).  I get the feeling that this is not the case, has the problem been fixed on new cars?

 

Just of the phone with SUK and VWUK and was told by 2 different people that there has been a slight design change on any engines being built from October [2012] onwards that fixes the 1.4 dual charged engines oil problem ...

 

Does the same (oil usage) problem exist with the Octavia 1.4 TSI or is it limited to the supercharged Fabia vRS?

[Furbytom]

Hasn't been fixed entirely on new cars but is less common. Newer cars have the CTHE engine code which has a few updates to try to reduce consumption.

I think the 1.4tsi on the Octy should be fine as most problems are occurring on the Twincharger. :-)

[Ootohere]

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/294051-cave-cthe-14tsi-just-reply-please-if-you-have-had-an-engine-replaced

At least 2 members that have vRS bought since they were fitted with the CTHE engines have had new replacement engines.

The Engines that are not Twinchargers with 180ps  (& some160-170 ps) have not had the same issues.

 

Some 1.4 TSI/TFSI non Twincharger have had issues of other kinds, which can happen to any engine.

[zom414]

Since my last post In Nov I have now put in 2 litres of oil.  I have now put 2 litres in for a total of 2,007 miles, the majority of which are miles just driving to and from work daily.  Am I to assume that I'm going to have to be topping up my oil monthly then.  I now need to buy some more oil as I've now used the 2 the garage gave me when I bought the car.  It was Castrol Edge Professional Longlife III 5W-30 oil, is this still the best stuff to buy for the car and if so can anyone recommend the cheapest place to buy it from?

 

Thanks and George I look forward to hearing from you.

[mousebat]

My 2011 Polo GTI is in the dealers for it's 3rd engine now - at £4k a go, any profit VW had in my car has to be gone now.

 

If it wasn't so bloody inconvenient I'd find it amusing, especially after all the back slapping that went on when these twincharged engines came out.  International Engine of the Year 2009/2010 my arse  :wonder:

 

VW financial services (car is business contract hire) will not release us on the contract and I've got about another year left, I feel sorry for whoever gets this car once we hand it back.

 

And don't get me started on the dry clutch DSG - dangerously scary gearbox.  I can't count the number of times it has bogged down at junctions stranding me in the road for a few heart stopping moments.  If I'm lucky it just shudders like I've driven over a cattle grid and catapults me down the road, leaving occupants wondering if I'm driving in lead filled wellies.

 

I should have gone for a Fiesta/Focus ST - they might have interiors designed on planet fagatron but at least I'd probably have had more fun.

 

Not that you can have fun on the roads any more. In fact bugger it, I foresee a Superb estate in my future - going back to the black pump. Time to relearn EDC16/17 

[Ootohere]

zom414,

Asda 10 w 30 Full Synthetic is perfectly OK to use. to suit VW 502 & 504

 

Personally i think it is time to get your oil supplied by Skoda UK until they have the problem fixed with the engine and high oil usage.

Which is above the 'maximum acceptable' that they like to go by.

 

EDIT,

mousebat,

Also International Engine of the year 1.0-1.4 litre , 2011 & 2012  & i think 2013

http://ukipme.com/engineoftheyear/archive.php

 

Hopefully your 3rd engine will be a good one, but surely it should be getting a new gearbox as well.

 

george

[mousebat]

Hey George

 

Every time I take a technician out in the car for some reason I can't replicate it so all they do is scan the car and it doesn't show faults.  If it showed a fault on the scan and the dealership did the exploratory work to check the clutch packs and they ended up being fine, the dealership would foot the bill for the work. So needless to say they aren't gonna drop the gearbox to give it the once over visually.  Now that the engine is gonna be out I've called them to make sure the tech checks them.  

 

To be fair I don't think it's the clutch - I just think the algo that controls the engagement/disengagement of the clutch is pap.  I just reckon there's some PID in there somewhere that is supposed to be tuned more to longevity of the clutch but in real world driving it's actually doing more harm than good.  My DSG has always been an on off switch and very difficult to judge as it seems to behave differently every time I look at the right pedal.  I know a german car specialist that we do some work for and they say they have R8's in all the time, just out of warranty with fried clutch packs on DSG.  Now that's expensive! 

 

I would love to know the reason they couldn't package this engine with a manual gearbox option, it can't have been a purely marketing decision?  What do you reckon?

 

Either way - there needs to be something in the press that puts people off buying these cars second hand - similar to what happened with the 1.8 Rover K series engines with the VVC.  My mate got stung with that in his MG-ZR, he bought just before they went tits up and within 6 months he needed a new cylinder head but there was no MG about to honour the warranty.  After lots of ball ache and legal threats he managed to get the retailer he bought it off (who was still trading with other franchises) to do the work.  Needless to say he flogged the damn thing straight away!  I know it was just a gasked problem but once bitten, twice shy...

 

Anyway, stay tuned in the next few months for engine number 4!  I'll let you all know what the different revisions of engines I've been through when I speak to my dealer tomorrow...

 

MB   

[Ootohere]

Has each replacement engine come with a new ECU?

 

Likely a ECU problem with the DSG. likely a ECU problem with the Engines,

Likely a Dealership Workshop problem and not having someone that knows what they are actually doing right from the first problems,

right through to now.

 

If not right when you get it back,

Maybe best to get a 'Qualified Motor Vehicle Engineering Examiner' to Inspect the vehicle and the History of repairs.

VW should be ashamed and taken to book, and the Dealership needs named and shamed.

VW should be covering all costs, all expenses, all losses,

 and have had their Technical Experts on the case long before now.

 

george

[zom414]

zom414,

Asda 10 w 30 Full Synthetic is perfectly OK to use. to suit VW 502 & 504

 

Personally i think it is time to get your oil supplied by Skoda UK until they have the problem fixed with the engine and high oil usage.

Which is above the 'maximum acceptable' that they like to go by.

george

 

I phoned the dealer I bought it from today and told them what happened, the guy I spoke to knew what I was talking about straight away and said they'd have to do an oil consumption test over 1000 km to see what (if anything) was wrong and then go from there.  However, it's a bit far for me to go there all the time and my local Skoda dealer is only 5 mins away so he said I could take it there.  The earliest I can get it in is the 10th January and they said I'd be liable for all costs including labour if they don't find anything wrong, I'll argue that at the time though if it happens.  They also want to keep the car for 2 days which I questioned but they said that's how long it would take.  I also asked about them supplying more oil in the meantime but they told me I have to go through Skoda Customer Services first as they can't just give it to me.  I'll keep you updated in the new year as to what happens next.

[Ootohere]

Are they actually going to drive your car for 621 miles,  Doubt it.

They might for 186 miles and then multiply the oil used.

 

I would say go get stuffed, contact Skoda UK and find out what they are going to do to do a correct test or vehicle engine inspection,

Warranty Work, not some mickey mouse test.

 

300 km and go from there is not a great deal if then they say it only used 78 grams of oil in 300km

(so they count that as being 0.31 litres per 1000 km)

and is within acceptable figures and they charge you for the test.

 

You say you used 2 litres in 2007 miles.

 

Offer to go in,

have them check the oil level, seal the Oil Filler Cap & the Dip stick, & you drive for 1200 miles,

or just 600 miles if you know it will use more than 0.5 of a litre.

 

Their 300 km test does not reflect a months usage that someone buys a car to do.

& how much oil using a car for 30 days might consume.

Someone that does 500 miles a week might not use much oil.

 

A car that uses only 2 tanks of fuel a month can drink a litre of oil.

[mousebat]

My car has had 3 ECU updates and 2 TCU updates - the last TCU update was when the car was in for engine number 2.  Not made a blind bit of difference. 

 

I'd just like to let the record state that I'm no VAG hater - I've driven nothing but VAG for the past 15 years and own VCDS and ECU flash tools (still do the occasional bit of mapping on mates cars when they request).  Used to love tuning and logging with my pumpe duese engine'd cars, solid as rocks. They put up with the abuse handed out whilst I got to grips with how EDC15 works and the 'way too much start of injection' I used to throw at them 

 

The dry clutch dsg is a bad all round idea.  If a normal manual clutch goes within warranty and it's blue as hell then the customer has to pay.  It's different with robotised clutch's because it's not the customers fault how the clutch is used as it is out of their control.  I'm sure this leads to the manufacturer making the software over cautious and not building in enough slip for smooth but prompt take off - creating the unpredictable jerkiness inherent in these box's.  Ironically - this might not actually be the best thing for the clutch?  I might be just talking nonsense though, it has been known...

 

Many times I've actually been crawling towards a junction and the car has dropped to 2nd gear.  On putting the power back on the revs build to nearly 2000rpm before the clutch is dumped, pretty unceremoniously, usually accompanied by the sort of shudder you get in a 400,000 mile Nissan Primera Taxi.

 

Because this behaviour is intermittent and might not happen for a day or two my dealer thinks I'm imagining it!  The wet clutch DSG boxes are much smoother and although I've seen reports of mechatronics units giving out pretty early, every one I've driven has been fine.

 

I haven't actually paid for oil for about a year now because I've skipped from oil consumption test, to new engine etc... Apart from 1 litre of very expensive oil bought at a rip off service station after the car had swallowed 4 litres in 1000 miles.  I had no choice but to buy it though, I was on my way to Gatwick for my honeymoon and it was middle of the night!  Without a funnel I actually spilt more on the engine than in it - it always seems to require oil at the worst possible time.

 

@zom414 Re: Your oil consumption test - they shouldn't charge you for it if they find it to be normal, at least once anyway.  If you're worried, before you hand it back for the oil weighing out just sit on the motorway in second and let the oil temp come up to around 110ºc for a few junctions.  If you're sure it's using too much oil and they want to play silly beggars and threaten to charge you for a test done at your inconvenience then I can see no other option.  

 

Maybe try a different, more sympathetic dealer.  I've had an oil consumption test come back ok during my saga and they didn't charge me.

 

MB

 

e2a - Actually, ignore the whole second gear on motorway thing - the engine might go pop, or they might install some kind of logger in the car.

Edited 9 December, 2013 by mousebat

[mousebat]

@ sk4gw - 1 litre per 600  miles is what VAG consider normal.  It's an absolutely disgusting hidden cost - the Euro compliance has forced manufacturers to build engines to be clean and as efficient as possible at all costs and it looks like this is the cost. 

 

Friction being an enemy of engine efficiency... you can see where my train of thought is going here.

 

I bet the nice sales people won't make you aware of this when you purchase the car though...

 

"Yes sir - it does 600 miles to the gallon! Of fully synthetic oil..."

[zom414]

George,

 

Would this oil be fine to use in the vRS:

 

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/5w30-engine-oil/?521772231&0&cc5_247

 

Also sorry to be a pain and ask something that's probably been asked loads of times before but what can I expect when I put my car in for the oil consumption test?  I called SUK to ask about getting some free oil from the dealer and they weren't happy that I'd asked them as the dealer should sort that out and also not happy  that my dealer could not fit me in for the test until the new year.  An hour later I got a call from my dealer who had been told by SUK to get me in earlier so it's going in tomorrow.  They want to keep the car all day though so just trying to clarify what they are going to do.  Do they drop the oil, weigh it, fill it back up and then tell me to come back after driving 1000km and then do the same?

 

Thanks

 

Ian

[mousebat]

The past 8 oil consumption tests for me has consisted of them dropping all the oil, adding a weighed amount of oil and then me driving 660 miles.  They then get me back and drop the oil and weigh it again.  They have a formula to work out what is used.

 

My local VW dealer has put engine no.3 in but when the tech test drove the car there was some serious knocking so they're having to drop the engine again to investigate!

 

I'm paying for a Polo GTI and getting a Polo 1.2 of which so far I've put nearly 800 miles on!

 

As soon as I get it back I'll ask the technician for a run down on what was changed and when on the past 3 engines.  Might be handy to compile a compendium of their attempt to fix the innately broken engine "INTERNATIONAL ENGINE OF THE YEAR 2009/2010/2011".

 

What a joke.

[vRSgone]

I've been keeping an eye on this topic since I took delivery of my Fabia II vRS back in May 2013, and obviously it is a cause for concern. I've had to top up by half a litre for a mileage of approx 4000 miles - is this excessive?

How do you know which engine has been fitted CAVE or CTHE, is there a simple visual check? The car was registered in March 2013.

Finally what is considered a normal oil temperature. Mine runs at about 95 to 97 degrees C on a motorway run, is that normal?

These are probably simple questions for you petrolheads out there, but I haven't got a clue and if there are any issues in the above, I'm best tackling them now whilst it's still fairly new.

Any help appreciated.

[philhoward]

0.5l in 4000 miles from new isn't a cause for concern IMHO - they can use a little from new as the running surfaces bed in.

 

Yours should be a CTHE - pretty sure it's on the VIN sticker on the drives door shut.

 

Oil temperature - mine flits between 90 and 98 - previous engine sat around 92-95 - both sets if figures are fine.  The oil is fine well over 100 degrees and i've seen 110 on a bit of autobahn.  Others have seen 130 on a track day, again with no ill effects.  The oil will run hotter than the water - that's why they have an oil cooler in the water system.

[vRSgone]

Thanks for the speedy reply. All seems in order then. It's put my mind at rest.

[seboni121]

As soon as I get it back I'll ask the technician for a run down on what was changed and when on the past 3 engines. Might be handy to compile a compendium of their attempt to fix the innately broken engine "INTERNATIONAL ENGINE OF THE YEAR 2009/2010/2011".

What a joke.

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