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That's why they fit a low oil light - to tell you to fill it up. There's one on the fuel tank as well...

I did over 600 miles on Monday and turned the engine off twice en route - once to fill the fuel and the second on the Eurotunnel. They park you that close together that I couldn't have opened the bonnet if I wanted to. Still no idea what the oil level is - and will wait for the orange light to tell me.

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  • So he hasn been online for the previous 13 days. How many oil checks do you reckon Jabo has carried out during that time...... At least 13, thats for sure lol

  • meh... if its not over 100 you're not trying hard enough

  • Abit odd he went from posting about 500 times per day to zero. They must have searched his cell and the contraband laptop was seized by the warden.... ;-)

Good luck with that then.

When the oil is low and long before any warning light comes on the oil temperature will start to be higher than when running with the correct level,

when low & running hotter the oil that is there depletes pretty quickly.

george

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I switch MFD between oil temp and fuel consumption screens all the time. Oil temp gauge will tell you straight away if something is wrong before real damage happens.

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WHEELS

Over the weekend I was cleaning my vRS. One of the jobs was to sort out the wheels. I only managed to do one site due to time constraints but decided to post this update anyway as it shows what's important :). Keeping your alloys in top shape as we all know not only makes the horrible task of cleaning them much easier but also increases the re-sale value of the car.The procedure was to take each wheel off (I only used the supplied jack from the boot, prolongs the job a fair bit...), clean it using water with Turtle Wax Nano shampoo and microfibre wheel cleaning brush. I had to use a small brush to get to those angular spaces on the inside of the wheel. Then I dried them and used TW Nano-tech Wax for Wheels.

HUBS

The important bit was before I put the wheels back on. There were numerous reports regarding galvanic corrosion between hubs and alloys getting them stuck and extremely difficult to remove when required. So I whipped out my trusty copper grease in spray and gave the previously well cleaned mating surfaces a generous helping of the good stuff. Don't forget to wipe any over-spray from the discs.

Enjoy the photos!

Wheel_Sml-1.jpg

Wheel_Cntr_sml.jpg

Wheel2_Sml.jpg

Wheel_Inside3_Sml.jpg

RearCaliper2_Sml.jpg

RearCaliper_Sml.jpg

RearCaliper_CuGrease_Sml.jpg

And the grease applied. Give the wheel a 360 degree spin on the hub before you put the bolts back in and tighten them.

Good luck with that then.

george

Pure and simple, George - if it was a defective power unit and burning that much oil, then it would need remedial work by Skoda at some point so it might as well be sooner. It was fine before I left home (top of the hatches at operating temp - no need to add as per the manual) and if it used it all in 600 miles then there's a problem to be addressed.

I've kept my end of the bargain according to their instructions (checking before a long journey); as long as the car does (by using less than 500ml per 1000 miles) then there's no issue. I've kept all the empty cans in the boot just incase...and with 12,000 miles on the clock, its well out of the "initial running" period..

You are right to find out now if its going to show a problem, & best to find it early.

Maybe get 2 new engines within 3 years the way some cars/engines are behaving.

Their figure is 500ml in 1000km.

To think they give that as a possibility for all their engines, not just the vRS, it must just be a figure they pick out of the air.

How much oil have you needed to put in over the last couple of thousand miles?

george

Last topped up approximately 1900 miles (I'm running the trip on it) and there's 5 empty 1 litre containers in the boot. Nothing used in the first couple of thousand, then a drinking spell but it "seems" to have calmed down BUT (and here's a big one) it got a litre of Edge 5W40 in last time. MPG (for petrol) unaffected before anyone asks...

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Try that stickier oil and see if tit helps. If it does it means you have leaky rings my friend due to a plethora of reasons...

New engines do often use more oil as they bed in as well , my diesel Octy used over a gallon from new to its first service but then never used a drop between services after that

My car has done about 2600mile now and ive used almost the whole litre from the boot

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I will be 1k next week and will dip the stick of horror again :sweat:

  • 2 weeks later...
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Small update.

Lights

Installed new headlight bulbs ( http://www.ringautomotive.co.uk/product_detail.asp?prod=2422 ) - huge improvement! £15 from fleebay delivered next day.

Engine

Runs brilliant - so far hasn't missed a beat! One thing I noticed it gets ever so slightly noticeable "kick" on hard acceleration around 5.5k rpm - feels like pressing a small jet nitrous button :)

Fuel Consumption

With the onset of colder weather it dropped and not able to go above 35mpg, even on 100 mile motorway run. This Saturday I will be driving to B'gham to see friends - 110 miles one way. Wonder what mpgs will I be able to squeeze out of her?

maybe my fuel economy is not being helped by frequent application of a brilliant advice from one of the members here "Redline a day keeps mechanic away" :)

Tyres.

Checked tyre pressure for the first time some days ago and it was not right too low out of the dealers. Put it right and noticed the ride got harder (I feel more "bumps" now) but it handles better now.

Best Feature so far

DSG box and Heated Seats, and enough power to stay ahead ;)

Small update.

Lights

Installed new headlight bulbs ( http://www.ringautom...l.asp?prod=2422 ) - huge improvement! £15 from fleebay delivered next day.

Tyres.

Checked tyre pressure for the first time some days ago and it was not right too low out of the dealers. Put it right and noticed the ride got harder (I feel more "bumps" now) but it handles better now.

I love reading about others cars, keep updating :-)

If you'd like to pm me a link to the email seller I'd like to order some of those bulbs on your recommendation, I assume they'll go in my Monte Carlo too?

I can't believe you left it so long to check your tyre pressures from a dealer, you of all people, so meticulous in your detail usually! ;-)

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I've done few weeks ago, just forgot about it lol

Jabozumo the bulbs are they better than the Philips extreme ?

Jabo - don't worry yourself about oil too much mate, just check it each time you fill it up with petrol, or once a month. The orange warning light will warn you when its running low, the red light means its fubared.

Think I have used 2.2 litres over 8300 miles or so. Its had a service too - back in June.

Enjoy it, warranty is there for a reason.

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I do not have a direct coparison between Philips Extreme and Ring ones but I run Extreme previously on Lupo and when I changed to Ring I thought somebody fitted HIDs when I wasn't looking:)

I think they are great! One thing they might be inferior at compared to Philips is perhaps beam uniformity but this might be due to the fact that Ring's beams are so much stronger that you simply see the pattern sharper. I was following a car the other day after dark, quite close behind along the lanes and my lights from were stronger in front of him than his own lights lol. I think he was running bog standard bulbs. All I need to do now is to lift the beams a fraction up as at 60mph along twisty B roads they do not throw far enough for my liking. I notice the difference when accelerating. THen the beam is being thrown that bit further and it is perfect! I will certainly no be making my car illegal by putting aftermarket HID bulb kit in - no need really :)

As for the oil, I am checking it roughly at weekly intervals, equates to nearly tank full - recently doing more miles than usual.! As I wrote above I had a panic attack I had a bore wash problem, and maybe it was an intermittent one since on next oil check it was perfect. I checked again 400 miles later and it the level dropped to half way hatched area (checked yesterday). I am going to check again but will not be topping up until orange light comes on and I always vigilantly check oil and water temps.

As many people say I will just enjoy it (and I am big time out accelerating plenty of "faster cars" up to NSL of course!), especially that I have bought extra two years warranty so have plenty of time for new engine to come in :D

Something George mentioned a while back - based on back-to-back observations, you can see the oil temp raise a few degrees based on the oil level dropping on a run - 92-93 is normal, and it rises to about 96 when it needs topping up (in my case).

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My one, with current temps, barely manages to get to 90C. If I hammered it and redlined through gears I managed to get to 107C iirc at 8C outside.

Checked the oil again this morning after 30 min drive to work and after 5-10 mins following engine shut down and oil is 2/3 up the hatched area. Previously it was half way up the area above hatched, referred to as "A" in manual. I will not be topping up until orange light comes on. It can use SOME oil as long as it doesn't drink it. In ll my previous cars, oil had dropped on the stick at some point but I never needed to top up really, perhaps once maybe but that was when the light came on. Then put in flushing additive to the engine, run it to disloge crap, dropped hot oil, changed everything and all was dandy :)

I went for a "drive" tonight.. -1.0*C outside and i wasn't driving enthusiastically at all.. due to still wanting to proceed with running in routine.. and it got to 101*C Oil temp.. maybe I need to check the oil :think:

meh... if its not over 100 you're not trying hard enough ;)

Dexter619,

you certainly need to check the oil,

& if its OK, then other things if you got the oil to read 101 celcius with an ambient of -1 degrees.

(you must have good tyres fitted)

Just come up the road, (including over the Drumochter Pass)

145 miles & it was -4 degrees when i started

& 4 degrees towards the end of the journey & the oil never read above 86 degrees celsius.

(winter tyres on, up the dual carriageway mostly & the correct level of 5W 40 Castrol)

george

PS, EDIT,

Just dipped it 10 minutes after stopping, Oil at the top of the Hatched area.

PPS We have snow now.

http://trafficscotla...etrafficcameras

check, Highlands & Wester Isles, A9 Slochd North or South

Dexter619,

you certainly need to check the oil,

& if its OK, then other things if you got the oil to read 101 celcius with an ambient of -1 degrees.

(you must have good tyres fitted)

Just come up the road, (including over the Drumochter Pass)

145 miles & it was -4 degrees when i started

& 4 degrees towards the end of the journey & the oil never read above 86 degrees celsius.

(winter tyres up the dual carriageway mostly & the correct level of 5W 40 Castrol)

george

PS, EDIT,

Just dipped it 10 minutes after stopping, Oil at the top of the Hatched area.

PPS We have snow now.

http://trafficscotla...etrafficcameras

check, Highlands & Wester Isles, A9 Slochd North or South

Snow? What's that? :think:

Snow? What's that? :think:

:)

You should have a ride in mine and see the 'kick ' it has ;)

meh... if its not over 100 you're not trying hard enough ;)

Sharkrider, did you note what yours got to when drag racing the 'mongrel' and octy or whilst on the 'Ring'? :)

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