Great install Fubar, how did you get the cable hidden behind the roof lining?

I got the bits for the job tonight and will do it after work tomorrow night, it'll be connected to a permanent live as it never goes more than 2 days without being driven (and that's rare).

Thanks in advance...

The cable just pushes in at top of windscreen as the lining itself is not bonded to the glass or anything. If you just offer the cable up you will see what I mean.

I haven't even got a fuse location card in my cover :(

I've had it from new so probally never had one.

I've also got half the fuses you have too.

Anyway great job Fubar

The A pillar trim just pulls off yeh ?

Any special way of doing it ?

Carefully from the top, helps if you have a proper trim removal tool. Take care if you have curtain airbags (optional and will have an airbag label on the A-pillar trim.).

I'd also say take more care if the trim is cold as plastics can be more brittle.

I used a plastic kitchen spatula to get the wire behind the A pillar.

I used a plastic kitchen spatula to get the wire behind the A pillar.

Picture please

Theres 4 clips holding the A pillar trim in place, don't be a girl, just put your fingers behind the top of the trim and pull it off, simple, run the wire down the inside of it, then line it back up and pop it on,

yeh but if you have curtain airbags there is more to it and more care to be taken, took me ages to get my A trim off with curtain airbags.

I don't have curtain airbags so I was lucky, I used my fingers only for that bit.

Great install Fubar, how did you get the cable hidden behind the roof lining?

I got the bits for the job tonight and will do it after work tomorrow night, it'll be connected to a permanent live as it never goes more than 2 days without being driven (and that's rare).

Thanks in advance...

Be interesting to see if you get any significant power drain.

After fitting mine - permanently on to use the parking mode feature - I noticed the car was making a muted "Bong" noise as I approached it mornings and evenings. Seems it was a low battery warning and after I started unplugging the camera power at the end of each journey the noise stopped. The car was only ever sat for half a day or so, between runs to the office, so it would appear that the camera does drain the juice a bit. I know they do a power management adaptor do I might look at that, as it would be handy to use the parking mode feature.

Be interesting to see if you get any significant power drain.

After fitting mine - permanently on to use the parking mode feature - I noticed the car was making a muted "Bong" noise as I approached it mornings and evenings. Seems it was a low battery warning and after I started unplugging the camera power at the end of each journey the noise stopped. The car was only ever sat for half a day or so, between runs to the office, so it would appear that the camera does drain the juice a bit. I know they do a power management adaptor do I might look at that, as it would be handy to use the parking mode feature.

Yea 'Power Magic' I think is the one that would best suit. My old camera I just used plugged into 12v socket in centre console. I left it on a few times by mistake over Sunday to Friday and never had problem starting.

Just reviewing footage from the first few days of use, a MASSIVE thanks to Bossfox for organising the group buy!

First impressions are that I should've spent the extra on the 400 model, unless it's something I'm doing: Watching footage back, travelling on a 40mph road, I can't pause and read any oncoming vehicle's reg plate. It's recording at its highest setting using high compression. Ah well, that's my only gripe though! Oh, small potholes and hard cornering set off the event recorder too...

it's now hard-wired into the fusebox boot 12v power slot which is empty as I've got a hatchback .

I pushed the cable behind the roof lining with the car key (gently) which is almost made for the job, no bongs as yet, even though the parking mode keeps getting triggered with people walking into and out of work.

If I ever get a warning, I'll just change the fuse location to one that's ignition switched, like the rear wiper.

Install made easy thanks to Fubar's pics and advice... Many thanks!

Just reviewing footage from the first few days of use, a MASSIVE thanks to Bossfox for organising the group buy!

First impressions are that I should've spent the extra on the 400 model, unless it's something I'm doing: Watching footage back, travelling on a 40mph road, I can't pause and read any oncoming vehicle's reg plate. It's recording at its highest setting using high compression. Ah well, that's my only gripe though! Oh, small potholes and hard cornering set off the event recorder too...

it's now hard-wired into the fusebox boot 12v power slot which is empty as I've got a hatchback .

I pushed the cable behind the roof lining with the car key (gently) which is almost made for the job, no bongs as yet, even though the parking mode keeps getting triggered with people walking into and out of work.

If I ever get a warning, I'll just change the fuse location to one that's ignition switched, like the rear wiper.

Install made easy thanks to Fubar's pics and advice... Many thanks!

Don't worry I can't read oncoming registration on top settings on the DR500GW either. Perhaps if I was to run it in a lower resolution mode at a raster frame rate I might but not bothering. Try pausing this vid for passing parked cars its like they were auto blurred LOL.

I didn't like this 4x4 guy for not using all the parking spaces on his way to get his friend with a take away and instead parked in a bus stop while blocking a cycle lane and overhanging part of the narrow lane. All because he was brought up by ignorant retards with no manors what so ever!

1080p Make it so!

Anyone know if I can edit the time delay from normal to event recording on the Blackvue 380? The manual says auto > parking mode after 30 mins, I'd prefer this to be 2 mins...

do you need a blackvue power magic for the blackvue 400 II camera? or will straight hard wire in be sufficient?

do you need a blackvue power magic for the blackvue 400 II camera? or will straight hard wire in be sufficient?

do you need a blackvue power magic for the blackvue 400 II camera? or will straight hard wire in be sufficient?

It is up to you, if you want to leave it on 24/7 for parking mode etc power magic just turns it off to stop you flattening battery once it reaches a set voltage (like 11volts) so your not stuck with a flat, that to me just means it allows it to work for a while then it stops anyway. If you hard wire it to a switched live fuse slot it will record when your engine is running until key is removed. If you wire it to a permanent live it will record all the time and go into parking mode if set to after certain amount of time, seems they will run all night ok without killing it. I leave my car for weeks at a time and have it on a switched live for that reason.

managed to grab a blackvue so just waiting for the other bits to arrive in the post and will be attempting this install

thanks for the pics

blackvue installed but i cannot find switched 12v in the fuse box!

just so you know i am just doing a hard wire install (not the 3 way cigar adapter as per OP)

pic (click to enlarge)

driving me mad! ive tried checking with multimeter and still cant find one!

tried the 2x 25 fuses 4th row up, both are live 12v

the fuse tap i am using, i have fitted a 5 amp fuse on there, is that right?

any ideas guys?

blackvue installed but i cannot find switched 12v in the fuse box!

just so you know i am just doing a hard wire install (not the 3 way cigar adapter as per OP)

pic (click to enlarge)

driving me mad! ive tried checking with multimeter and still cant find one!

tried the 2x 25 fuses 4th row up, both are live 12v

the fuse tap i am using, i have fitted a 5 amp fuse on there, is that right?

any ideas guys?

Just a quick thought, are you testing by using multi meter with key in on position then turning key to off position and still getting power? If so it may just be you need to fully remoe the key from the ignition barrel to kill the switched ones (along thoughts of when radio goes off).

5amp is fine for the camera on it's own yea. As the fuse lay outs seem to be lucky dip I have no idea other than just trying some more, my rear wiper one was a 15amp and my windows were 2 X 25amp's.

i have now tried everyone fuse that is present in the fuse box (full size fuses) and they are ALL live, how can this be?

i have tried without key in ignition, i have also tried closing all doors and locking the car by alarm, waiting 10mins and the camera is still working!

have also tried all the blank spaces and non of them work, some are totally blank and others have just one pin present (not 2), although i found one empty one that showed 12v with ignition and 0v when no key in, so i tried that slot and camera wouldn't power up :(

my cigar lighter socket is 12v all the time, tested this with another device

just a tad confused!

anyone else with a blackline hard wired a blackvue 400 in ?

I had a parrot 3200 which needed a key live on my previous VRs (2010 plate). I cannot remember which fuse i used but i had no issue once the key was removed. If i get time i will meter my Blackline for you

i have now tried everyone fuse that is present in the fuse box (full size fuses) and they are ALL live, how can this be?

i have tried without key in ignition, i have also tried closing all doors and locking the car by alarm, waiting 10mins and the camera is still working!

have also tried all the blank spaces and non of them work, some are totally blank and others have just one pin present (not 2), although i found one empty one that showed 12v with ignition and 0v when no key in, so i tried that slot and camera wouldn't power up :(

my cigar lighter socket is 12v all the time, tested this with another device

just a tad confused!

anyone else with a blackline hard wired a blackvue 400 in ?

Just looking at your pic again, you appear to be not hard wiring camera in but doing same as me but with a single 12V female socket adaptor. Your fuses are identical in location and amp rating to mine bar I have an additional 15amp which is the one I used lol. I would think your 3rd row up all the way to right (green 30amp) is your electric windows, you can remove fuse with key out then turn on and attempt to operate to test if its a switched live. Then it would be time to look at the 12V female socket adaptor you have used and how it is earthed etc.

i would of thought the windows were live 12v as you can use remote key to wind windows up and down?

i didnt try the mini fuses at the top though, will try them tomorrow

i would of thought the windows were live 12v as you can use remote key to wind windows up and down?

i didnt try the mini fuses at the top though, will try them tomorrow

In mine it's switched for windows one, perhaps the fuse is in relation to your door mounted electric window switches and the central locking module be connected to indicators/locks/windows?

Will try today mate Thanks

Just a thought, does the tap have to go in so wire is pointing up or down? Or the both same?

Closest fuse to the fuse box is the original fuse. And outer fuse is 5amps?