Where the wire is in an inline crimp? Maybe not a good enough contact in there and arching as a result? Like if crimp went down on a thin cable and only gripped the insulation and wire itself was not making a good connection. 

 

No not at the crimps, it was the actual splitter that went, the crimps and fuses all were fine when i disconnected everything, however, the splitter was smoldering away a good 30ft from the car.  I think its been over juiced.

No not at the crimps, it was the actual splitter that went, the crimps and fuses all were fine when i disconnected everything, however, the splitter was smoldering away a good 30ft from the car.  I think its been over juiced.

 

Holly smokes! Might just have been a faulty one! 

Faulty or a rubbish sparky

 

Car is still stinking of the horrid burning electric smell

Thanks for this excellent guide FUBAR. 

 

Have just completed installing one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00F5WP990/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I have followed your guide and used the fuse for the heated rear window which was 25a. When i removed the fuse, I checked the heated window did not work.

 

On connecting ,my ciggy adapter, i have noticed that it remains on even when the key is out.

 

The fuses are in the holder as per the pics, not sure what's happened here?

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks

i believe the fuse he used was for the rear screen wiper...? if youre using the slot for the rear screen heater then that could have a constant 12v feed even with the ignition off...

Ok., would it not then work without ignition or key in?

 

My adapter has switches for eachj input, so I can quite easily turn it off anyway.

 

Thanks

Thanks for this excellent guide FUBAR. 

 

Have just completed installing one of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00F5WP990/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I have followed your guide and used the fuse for the heated rear window which was 25a. When i removed the fuse, I checked the heated window did not work.

 

On connecting ,my ciggy adapter, i have noticed that it remains on even when the key is out.

 

The fuses are in the holder as per the pics, not sure what's happened here?

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks

 

 

i believe the fuse he used was for the rear screen wiper...? if youre using the slot for the rear screen heater then that could have a constant 12v feed even with the ignition off...

 

Exactly what I was going to saw.     I can only assume the same in the first instance. 

 

Ok., would it not then work without ignition or key in?

 

My adapter has switches for eachj input, so I can quite easily turn it off anyway.

 

Thanks

 

Off rear wiper fuse slot should only power the adapter when the key is on. 

 

Out of interest how did you establish that the fuse you used was the rear heated window? I ask as the fuse lay out guide is generally utterly wrong as in my first post. If you haven't I would try firstly removing that fuse and seeing it the rear demister works to be sure it's the correct fuse for it. Other possibility is that the rear demister fuse may also power something else which is not switched? 

I went through the card on the cover and also the manual. I did remove the fuse and tried the demister without it and it didn't work, but did when replacing the fuse

 

Took a while to decipher all the fuses and positions!

 

Was initially going to use fuse for heated seats but the fuses which were supposed to be for the this was not.

 

Thanks

I went through the card on the cover and also the manual. I did remove the fuse and tried the demister without it and it didn't work, but did when replacing the fuse

 

Took a while to decipher all the fuses and positions!

 

Was initially going to use fuse for heated seats but the fuses which were supposed to be for the this was not.

 

Thanks

 

Good stuff, that eliminates a few things! As for the heated seats one, you can just try and find it off the messed up card (sort of inside out mine was), or just go through the empty slots to find one that gives power switched (take a bit longer but should be effective). Also worth trying the rear wiper one if you can locate it as most of us have had success with it. 

I found my fuse box diagram to be correct it was just backward but if you wok from the straight side and just count the slots it does tally up. I installed my power magic pro to the rear wiper fuse and the battery connection is wired to the parking lights fuse. It's been in for a week now and it's not caught fire

I may try and find the rear wiper fuse as you have mentioned fire

 

Thanks

well just went to defrost the vrs and noticed that the rear heater was not working, although the light was on on the switch. Looked at the fuses and the 5a fuse was blown and the 25a was ok? The dash cam was still working.

put the original fuse back and the heater worked, but no cam.

 

Have i got my fuses the wrong way round?  The heater fuse is directly above where the adapter plugs in with the 5a fuse adjacent

 

I wil defo have to look for another fuse as now all my 5a fuses are now blown!!

 

thanks

If memory serves me right the wiper is the 3rd row up from the bottom and the 4th on in from the side newer the bonnet.

If memory serves me right the wiper is the 3rd row up from the bottom and the 4th on in from the side newer the bonnet.

 

On mine as per pics it's bottom right, up one,  left one as per pics in post #1. Everyones seems to be different though lol.

Well FUBAR, I did this excellent mod to the Octavia and I've now just done same in my Mondeo so I think it only right to say thanks again   

Just done this on my fabia. its a bit different but this was very helpful!

 

Thanks.

Just done this on my fabia. its a bit different but this was very helpful!

 

Thanks.

 

I am glad it was of use. I hoped to do this mod in my new (to me) 530D and if you ever buy one of those, throw the guide out the window as ALL fuses behind glove box are permanent live :( 

All switched live components are controlled as such by can bus system, so had to cut into the loom after taking most of the dash apart. 

Shame, but you tend to find this with non-VAG - retrofits and tweaking are more difficult....

 

In my experience anyway.

Shame, but you tend to find this with non-VAG - retrofits and tweaking are more difficult....

 

In my experience anyway.

 

The MG was a massive job in comparison to the Octy. I ended up using an earthing point in boot from both cameras as I had run a line of dual core through the car and had one side free  

Just read this - a job for next weekend

Hi.

My first posting on this forum.

Thanks for great tip on how to hardwire a dashcam.

Got the piggyback fuse adapter and everything turned out just as described in this thread

The only thing i nearly missed out on was when i removed a pillar cover. Almost lost the screw holding the cover into the dashboard when removing it. Was a little bit tricky to get i refitted. 3 snap-ons that had to be lined up correctly.

Attached photos to prove the fitting

Remove rear wiper 15amp fuse (ignition switched live) and insert in rear slot of blade fuse adaptor and a 5amp fuse in front (fuse info below)

 

 

Correct me if i'm wrong but shouldn't the orginal fuse go in the bottom slot (nearest the prongs) and the fuse for the new live feed go in the top, where the red wire comes out of it.  I've used the same fuse tap and that's how mine works.......

Correct me if i'm wrong but shouldn't the orginal fuse go in the bottom slot (nearest the prongs) and the fuse for the new live feed go in the top, where the red wire comes out of it.  I've used the same fuse tap and that's how mine works.......

I was also thinkng of this ???? Maybe i should switch them

Correct me if i'm wrong but shouldn't the orginal fuse go in the bottom slot (nearest the prongs) and the fuse for the new live feed go in the top, where the red wire comes out of it.  I've used the same fuse tap and that's how mine works.......

Best practice would be to test with original fuse only in each slot to see which one it works in and which it does not to establish which is which. In my case that was how it was, but in subsequent ones used in other cars it has been the opposite. I will update post 1 to suggest folk check in this way to be sure.

Or is the piggyback fuse designed so it will not work unless both fuses are in and the 5 amp being first it will go first and not damage anything from the original fuse tap. ?