I wasnt aware it made a difference.  Can you explain more why it does?

Assuming the fuse tap is a fuse with a flying lead coming off one end. The fuse can be inserted either way around. One way around the current will travel through the fuse and then out the flying lead to whatever you connect it to, hence your gadget is protected by the fuse.

The other way around the current will hit the flying lead before the fuse, therefore the fuse will not blow (Even if it does your gadget will still receive power) in an overload scenario, therefore by-by sat nav or dash cam or whatever.

Hi Fubar, thanks for the instructions they are invaluable.

Just one question about the blade fuse piggy back tap adaptor: As I understand it it's only the positive terminal that is 'tapped' and the negative is taken from the chassis. Does it matter which way the adaptor is plugged into the fuse box?

 

In other words: Is it the top of the fuse box 'socket' that's positive or the bottom?

 

Thanks.

If I remember right it's the top of each fuse location that's live with no fuse inserted. If I get a chance later I will take a pic of the fuse taps in my fuse box.

pull the tapped fuse and see if your accessory powers down, if not turn the fuse tap through 180 degrees.. simples to coin an animal

Thanks for the replies.

I just wondered if I would cause a problem with it the wrong way around but it seems not.

 

I do like to know what I'm trying to do before I do it how I think it should be done and blow something.

ok, managed to sort it! i must of been tired last night lol

in the end the 10amp fuse in slot 29 is switched, tapped into that and confirmed working

thanks to Fubar for his help on this

 

After much searching, I ended up using the same slot as you - was the only one that seemed to be off with ignition off... was a bit wary due to the description of it in the manual (can't remember exactly what it was but think it was engine related - I would've preferred to use something that wouldn't stop the car from working if something went wrong! )

 

Anyways, thanks for the guide Fubar, I have to say that if I can follow it, then anyone can!!

That is so helpful saves me killing my car try all the fuses. Thanks

Just wired in a lighter socket using this great guide! Camera on order so we'll see what that's like to sort out. Thanks Fubar.

Just wired in a lighter socket using this great guide! Camera on order so we'll see what that's like to sort out. Thanks Fubar.

 

Good stuff, glad it helped. 

Evening folks,

 

Just trying to do do this just now, but having a real job crimping the 12V Splitter to the fork end for earthing and the piggy back adapter, the wire is so thin?  Ive got the kit FUBAR linked to ebay but the cable wil not crimp at all its way to loose for my liking?

 

What splitters are you guys using? Help please would like this installed before it snows next week (so the weather man says)

 

thanks in advance

Evening folks,

 

Just trying to do do this just now, but having a real job crimping the 12V Splitter to the fork end for earthing and the piggy back adapter, the wire is so thin?  Ive got the kit FUBAR linked to ebay but the cable wil not crimp at all its way to loose for my liking?

 

What splitters are you guys using? Help please would like this installed before it snows next week (so the weather man says)

 

thanks in advance

 

Personally if the wire was too thin, id sheer a longer bit of the insulation off and double it over a couple of times to make it thicker. That may just be me though lol. When I used the crimping tool I think I used the point at end of it to close the crimp completely tight rather than the pre made holes further down as they were not enough.

 

I am going to have to do all of this again for rear I think in the near future :( I want 12v in boot too for say a coolbox but will just get good double core to take the juice!  

Thanks for the reply. I did try doubling it but even then it was rubbish.

Might pop into halfrauds see if they have anything with a thicker gauged cable.

I folded the wire over a few times then soldered it to give it even more thickness before crimping it.

I need to refit my cameras when I get a chance but now have curtain airbags - is there any screws or anything that I need to undo on the A pillar (have a little plastic cap with airbag written on it) or is it the same as before just pull it off gently?

You need to prise the plastic caps off, then undo the screw behind it

You need to prise the plastic caps off, then undo the screw behind it

 

Perfect, thank you

Perfect, thank you

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/282361-broken-ticket-clip/?hl=%2Bticket+%2Bclip#entry3348195

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/282361-broken-ticket-clip/?hl=%2Bticket+%2Bclip#entry3348195

 

I assume as long as I run the power cable along with the others it shouldn't block anything important?

Am I right in thinking the negative cable is without the white dashes??

Anyone able to confirm?

Am I right in thinking the negative cable is without the white dashes??

 

Hello mate,

I believe so - see post below from earlier in the thread;

 

Have you got your positive and ground wires the correct way around? Normally the positive has a white or broken white line on the outer plastic sheath.

Cheers. I've done it the correct way. I'll get it fitted over the weekend

Fitted the 12V adapter and well it did not go well. Followed all the steps turned the key and it went POP and decided to catch fire and it's at this point i ripped it out and threw it hahaha. Not sure what I did wrong any ideas?

I've now got a power magic pro on the way...

Looks like I'm the first one to screw this up

Fitted the 12V adapter and well it did not go well. Followed all the steps turned the key and it went POP and decided to catch fire and it's at this point i ripped it out and threw it hahaha. Not sure what I did wrong any ideas?

I've now got a power magic pro on the way...

Looks like I'm the first one to screw this up

 

WOW, what exactly went pop? Where did fire start from and what fuse rating did you use in adaptor? Are you sure you successfully identified the positive and negative cables from whatever you connected? 

It went pop at the splitter where the cables enter the body. Used a 15 and 5 for the fuses and piggy baked the rear wiper.

Yeah I got a friend to check the polarity for me on some device and he confirmed it was correct.

I've wired in led footwell light into my civic with no issues in the past so I've messed up somewhere here.

Patiently awaiting power magic pro hahaha ill probably manage to blow it up too hahaha

It went pop at the splitter where the cables enter the body. Used a 15 and 5 for the fuses and piggy baked the rear wiper.

Yeah I got a friend to check the polarity for me on some device and he confirmed it was correct.

I've wired in led footwell light into my civic with no issues in the past so I've messed up somewhere here.

Patiently awaiting power magic pro hahaha ill probably manage to blow it up too hahaha

 

Where the wire is in an inline crimp? Maybe not a good enough contact in there and arching as a result? Like if crimp went down on a thin cable and only gripped the insulation and wire itself was not making a good connection.