Jabo

I have the nose up when doing it over the pit, and then just lift the rear.

Once burnt when down a hole, twice shy.

Dealers like to charge for using an Oil Flush when they can, thats when i would say, its hot, its flushed enough.

george

Dealers mostly pump it out from the top - the worst thing you can do to an engine as all the crap stays at the bottom of the sump!

I never been asked about oil flush additive by any garage so far . I do use it myself on my older cars but new ones don't need it really.

What happend to you in the pit?

Actually never been burnt removed a sump plug myself and never been really covered in oil,

but i was in one when someone else totally missed catching the catch can, then failed to get the plug back in,

getting out the pit and up the steps was fun.

george

Dealers mostly pump it out from the top - the worst thing you can do to an engine as all the crap stays at the bottom of the sump!

I never been asked about oil flush additive by any garage so far . I do use it myself on my older cars but new ones don't need it really.

What happend to you in the pit?

Thats Tosh mate

If you ever take the sump off a engine you will see there is loads of stuff in the bottom , the ONLY way to get the crap out of the bottom is to remove the sump

Using a vac pump to remove the oil is by far the best way imo and much safer since it allows to get the oil hotter and not have any risk of getting burnt or getting in contact with old dirty oil

Finally if a vac pump doesnt suck it up its unlikely the oil pump will either

Agreed, vacuum pump is safer, easier, cleaner and the least hassle for the mechanic doing it. Hence they all are using it, not because it is better!

It does not pump anything out of the sump (except the crap directly underneath the hose perhaps, but I doubt it ) but whatever is suspended in the oil already, that small diameter hose dropped into the sump via oil dipstick tube stays in one spot and sucking action is extremely weak, simply not able to lift anything out. On the other hand car's oil pump operates at 3.5 bar pressure...

Compared to vaccum pump dropping oil through the sump plug (wonder why did they put it there in the first place?) oil gushes out rather violently taking with the flow a lot of crap form the bottom of the sump. Granted, it will not be the well stuck muck at the bottom of the pan (you do need to remove it to clean it) but heavier stuff which drops out of suspension rather quickly will be washed out. If you not a complete tool (like me) the chances of getting scaleded are zero .

The vac hose sits much lower than the oil pick up dont forget

Also FWIW oil pumps dont generate pressure

I just quoted the official VAG Self Study literature where oil pump set working pressure is 3.5bar and if it goes below it increases pumping pressure and if above it "recirculates the oil" or something, some complicated arrangement there with springs and other steampunk gagetry

All pumps create pressure difference between inlet and outlet or there will be no pumping action - no pressure differential no media movement. With motor off oil delivery system is not pressurised. Then it works at 3.5bar. Crankcase is ventilated and my bet is on the oil pump to create that 3.5bar or am I wrong?

As to the vacuum oil changes perhaps I was a little to exaggerating. You will not do any damage or gross disservice to the car doing it this way but sump plug hot oil dropping is much better in my humble opinion .

Oil pumps create volume , restriction to that flow creates pressure.

That's why the oil pressure is really high when the engine is cold and drops as the engine warms up the oil pressure pumps at the same rate whatever the temp

I think we have a problem with terminology here

Pump does not create volume, as this is constant in the engine, it creates volume flow. Rightly so the pressure is created by restrictions along the pumping path by said pump moving appropriate amount of volume in time to create required pressure. Pump turns at a rate dictated by engine rpm and relief valves regulate oil flow so oil flow is changing all the time, pressure is constant. Cold engine experiences high oil pressure simply because oil is stone cold and creates more restricion along the way. What throws most people is the fact that there is no vacuum on the suction side of the pump as this is an open system. Actually crank case pressure can be much higher that whatever oil pump is able to create, especially at high revs.

with too low an oil pressure some parts of the engine furthest from the pump on the oil pumping path will be without oil which is terminal. Low level of oil causes lower oil pressure, which is not exactly that bad as long as it isn't too low i.e. all parts of the engine get oil. Lower oil level reduces parasitic churning loses - all competition engines run the lowest possible oil levels for that reason.

Guys - On a slightly different subject I have taken pictures of my front discs.... considering the cars only done 4K.. they look pretty warn but pads look ok.. (The white stuff on the disc is water... it had just started to rain when I took the photos)

Any thoughts.

And just picking up on the comment about extended warrenty.. I am defo considering it and having a bit more control over changing the oil to get a better idea on where I am with the oil consumptions.

Edited 9 May, 201313 yr by Azzbo786

I think we have a problem with terminology here

Pump does not create volume, as this is constant in the engine, it creates volume flow. Rightly so the pressure is created by restrictions along the pumping path by said pump moving appropriate amount of volume in time to create required pressure. Pump turns at a rate dictated by engine rpm and relief valves regulate oil flow so oil flow is changing all the time, pressure is constant. Cold engine experiences high oil pressure simply because oil is stone cold and creates more restricion along the way. What throws most people is the fact that there is no vacuum on the suction side of the pump as this is an open system. Actually crank case pressure can be much higher that whatever oil pump is able to create, especially at high revs.

with too low an oil pressure some parts of the engine furthest from the pump on the oil pumping path will be without oil which is terminal. Low level of oil causes lower oil pressure, which is not exactly that bad as long as it isn't too low i.e. all parts of the engine get oil. Lower oil level reduces parasitic churning loses - all competition engines run the lowest possible oil levels for that reason.

Lets not forget hot engines have drop in oil pressure as things expand and clearances widen , oil pressure is very much linked to engine temperature , most competition cars I have known have ran quite high oil levels to ensure oil stays around the pick up pipe during acceleration , braking and cornering , that's why many people over fill slightly when going on track.

Absolutely, all those passageways get wider with heat and pressure would drop too much if pump wasn't able to compensate.

What about dry sumps, isn't it what is being run in most competitions?

With wet sumps din't they baffle them to prevent oil from sloshing too much and leaving pickup line dry? Not sure, just asking.

Hi Folks,

I've had my 2011 vRS (with a CAVE engine) for two years, bought as a demo with 1600m on it now done 17,500m. Used vast quanties of oil frm new, but I just accepted it asa high performance small engine. Took it for its second service and mentioned it to the dealer. Did the first oil tests -failed, did the 600 miles and then another test, failed. Fitted breather kit, did 600miles, tested again today still using oil. New engine being fitted on Monday. Brilliant customer service!

Will I get the later engine?

Should I ask for a new cat?

Do they reprogamme the ecu for the new engine?

What warranty have others got on their new engines?

Any thoughts on running it in?

When they take the engine out, will they have to drain the gearbox oil? Tempted to ask them to do an early DSG oil and filter change to prolong its life.

Any advice thoughts greatfully received!

I'll let others reply to the first questions but don't worry about the dog box,I think they are a "dry" box,so no oil or filter to change.

Azzbo,

Your discs look OK to me.

205Rallee,

If I may I'd suggest starting a new thread in Fabia II section as this would get you more focused attention without hijacking this thread

Welcome to Briskie by the way

205Rallee,

If I may I'd suggest starting a new thread in Fabia II section as this would get you more focused attention without hijacking this thread

Welcome to Briskie by the way

Thanks ok will do!

Mine's black, black and red too!

Azzbo,

Your discs look OK to me.

And me.

Can I just extend my many thanks to everybody who has responded.. I am totally passionate about Skodas and in particular vRS and hadnt appreciated the wealth of knowledge there is out there. This is the first time I have ever posted a "help request" and the response has been totally amazing. This is certainly my home from now on..

God bless all of you.. have a fab weekend and I'm just gonna now try and enjoy my little vRS while I can...... I hope Skoda can maybe not bring out a vRS in the new 2014 Fabia (Skip that model) and do something with the Rapid... Wow that would be totally exciting..

Take care all.... I am sure I will cryout for help again soon.. DOAH!!

Arif Long live my vRS now renamed as Roscoe after Lewis Hamiltons dog!!! (Oh I am mad about F1 too)

Have you joined our F1 duiscussion thread yet? There is prediction league going on as well.

With internet advice you have to be rather careful as it mioght be grossly misleading and lead you to unnecessary expenditure at best and destroyed engine at worst . Mind you, people generally mean very well and want to help. Some however want to very strongly believe they advice is the correct one as they spent huge amount of money following it themselves and quote theiur experiences to back it up etc.

Unfortunately you have to make your own mind up about what you read. The more you read the better you will be equipped to tell the difference.

I invested in lots of books. Some were brilliant some were total crap. Recent crap example is ECU programming and tuning guide - complete shambles! Beacuser I read lots of books I could tell 30% of the book was a plain plagiarism of a "bible" I already read, with weak and erronous attempts to make into an original text LOL. Luckily I padi only £4 for kindle version. I;'d be rather peed off if I bought a hard back for over £20!

Totally agree on the point of making your own judgement call on advise given....If I can be in a position of being more aware of certain areas/issues, it then provides me with knowledge to argue the toss with mechanics when they fob me off.

I am not one myself, I am just a vRS owner with a completely different profession and thats it, so dont have facilities to do most simple jobs like oil and filter changes, but now with some knowledge I understand the benefits and pitfalls of hot and cold oil changes (just as an example). I'd like to think I am not naive...... (probably leave that to my wife)...

I love F1 and have tickets booked for SPA this year... I didnt realise their is an F1 thread on here too..

I am not a mechanic neither, more theory side than greas under finger nails. However I do the basics myself. I remeber when I decided to tackle drum brakes on my Lupo (now sold). Didn't have manual or anything. It took me 30 mins to take one apart and two days to put it back together. Other wheel took me 45mins to take it apart, refurbish and put back together Doing things is not difficult albeit it might be complicated with its own ways of correctly doing things. Understanding why things happen the way they do is a different story all together . Keith Duckworth never had grease under his fingernails yet all sucessfull contemporary four valve heads currently in use basically copy his design from the 50'ies!

Sorry for the slight thread necro but I was also interested in oil suggestions for top-ups for my MkII vRS CTHE. It's been using the Castrol edge pro LLIII 5w-30. Trouble is I can't seem to source any online for a good price. Does anyone have any good suppliers with good prices? I shudder at the thought of having to buy this from Skoda........

I noticed that you can get Castrol edge (not pro) but 5w-30 and recommended for 504 spec. Would it be ok to top up with this if it already has the pro oil in there? Or would you recommend to drain and refill?

Personally i would get Castrol Edge 5w 30 'fully synthetic' and top it up when required.

See if it is still in 'Home Bargains' @ £6.99 a litre,

(Last i looked it was only 5w 40 that they had)

or

Check out if on offer in a Tesco or Asda Foodstores, not the Filling stations.

george

Sorry for the slight thread necro but I was also interested in oil suggestions for top-ups for my MkII vRS CTHE. It's been using the Castrol edge pro LLIII 5w-30. Trouble is I can't seem to source any online for a good price. Does anyone have any good suppliers with good prices? I shudder at the thought of having to buy this from Skoda........

I noticed that you can get Castrol edge (not pro) but 5w-30 and recommended for 504 spec. Would it be ok to top up with this if it already has the pro oil in there? Or would you recommend to drain and refill?

Skoda seem to have sold their soul to Castrol judging by the recommendation on the oil filler cap and,yes,it's always expensive.

However you can get plenty of others with the correct VW spec.

The Quantum stuff is cheaper and my local motor factor does Carlube brand at about £25 for 5 litres...whether these are as good as Castrol I don't know but they do carry the correct spec.

I did an interim oil change on mine with Quantum and have done 2500 miles since with no oil added.