Hi all, I have a mk 2 vrs , annoying clicking noise from driver side rear wheel, originally thought noise was coming from inside the car , so I stripped all the panels out and even removed rear seatbelt. With the panel removed you can hear the clicking coming from the other side of the metal wheel arch panel, which would suggest suspension. I have had the shocks checked and they are not leaking, tyre pressures ok. My local dealer have the car now. Does anyone know what it could be as I would rather have fixed the car myself. It seems to click mainly over solid speed bumps but will occasionally do it on a normal road. Thank you

It's not a squeaking bootlid is it? I had this on my last vrs.

Is it the boot vent behind the rear bumper that's clicking?

Ours clicks when the car is driven hard.

Hi guys thanks for quick response both good ideas and problems I have encountered but it is neither one , the bootlid needing adjusting is a squeak and the vents I have secured with cable ties. As I say with the driver side boot panel removed and sitting in the back while driving you can clearly hear it coming from the other side of the metal wheel arch i.e outside the car in the rear wheel area in guessing

It is also a clear click rather than a knock or bang, closest thing I can describe it as is someone clicking a pen in and out , happens over bumps, on a completely flat road you won't hear anything , hence I can always hear it. Also this car has had a new engine amongst other more minor parts. Which confirms that parts do fail thesedays regardless of mileage , just wondering which one. I was going to change the rear shocks but as I was going to have to wait a few days for the parts and I'm not sure if it is actually them that's the problem I just gave it to my dealer.

I posted about this a couple of years ago. Dealer could hear it but couldn't find cause.

Happens on speed bumps at sensible speed, happens if parked 4 wheels up kerb and move off slowly.

Is there a way of locating my previous post with all the helpful replies? May assist fabvrs04.

Remove the rear light clusters then put them back in. I had this problem on a MKI Octavia Vrs, the rear lights were rubbing on the body work at the bottom of the cluster, I undid the cluster and eased it up a little whilst tightening back up

Problem solved

Awfabia I have read your previous post and I'm afraid that tape around the locks has had no effect. Importantly the dealer said to me last time I was in that they swapped my shock absorbers around and that if I heard this tak/click noise from the opposite side then the shocks were the likely cause. Few miles down the road and I can hear this noise from the opposite side of the car and the other side is now silent, problem is I have just changed shocks and mounts at my own expense on both sides and the noise has come back. (From the side that it alternated to after the dealership tampered with it which is the passenger side, I believe it has been making the noise since the car was new but it originated on the driver side. Would really love some more help on this one thank you

Maybe all the parts on the shelf are faulty ! Doubt it though

Also like to point out that the rubber stops wernt changed on either shock but I doubt that could make a metallic clicking noise

You find sounds and annoying sounds by discounting nothing.

There is no magic solution.

you just go through the basics from starting with the wheel, then the wheel off, then inspecting the hub and the brakes,

the suspension, spring, damper, mount, bushes etc.

All get inspected, and made sure properly seated and greased/lubed if required,

you check the tightness of all nuts, you torque them to the correct setting..

*Hand Brake Cable and brackets properly checked..*

If there is a continuing problem and the car has been run in and allow to settle,

you persist with the Dealership finding the solution to the problem or fault.

If all is as should be, all the basic mechanical things checked, Dampers swapped or at least removed and the function checked,

you start to wonder if its the body and if all is well, metal work, wheel liners, bumper, brackets etc

but that should be getting looked at while its on the ramp anyway, to see that the cause is not from something as simple.,.

A new member in the last couple of days reported a 'Creak', at the Rear Off Side and was told that

'Spot Welding' was done on the rear panel', as part of the repair.

http://www.briskoda....g-creak-at-rear

(i would love to know what was wrong, and where Spot Welds were missed in Manufacturing or had broken,

and how the garage got the 'Spot Welder' in to do the fix. was the car dismantled!

or what 'welding' got done at the dealership..)

Before returning to the garage,

Removed everything from the boot, Parcel shelf, Spare, jack etc. anything and everything that can make a noise..

Fold down the seat behind the driver.

Fasten your self in the other back seat and get someone you trust to drive the car while you listen for where the 'clicking' is coming from.

This about covers everything else.

http://www.briskoda....right-side-only

george

I agree with George. There is no easy answer usually and you cannot discount anything from the equation. Just one thing. I note the way the noise has changed sides. This may indicate a suspension/shock absorber issue. This brings to mind the question...did you 'prime' both shocks before fitting? Shocks can make a variety of noises for all sorts of reasons but new 'unprimed' shocks can sometimes make a clicking or pinging noise. The reason for this is micro airbubbles in the oil of the shock, and this reacts with the valve inside the shock when under pressure. Mostly the air finds its way to the resevoir of the shock without problems even if the shock is not primed. But sometimes depending on the design of the shock, the oil used, the amount of air involved, and some other factors, it just doesn't happen and becomes noisy. To prime the shock you must simply work the shock absorber up and down several times to it's fullest extent in a vertical position. It's not always necessary, again depending on the shock but some shocks require this procedure and is in my book generally a good thing to do on all shocks. If the shock is not primed prior to fitting it can take forever for it to happen and sometimes won't happen until the suspension has been fully compressed and raised several times. Even then it may not happen as the shocks once fitted don't ever really get a full stroke. Just a thought! Also, what about exhaust mounts and heatshield? Check rigorously. Often these make similar noises too.

Sk4gw and estate man , I'm sure u have read my posts I'd just like to point out that the dealer swapped the shocks around and now the noise comes from the other side! I have since replaced the shocks, top mounts and bolts which had no effect on the noise it stayed on the same side, the only parts that wernt changed were the plastic boots and the bump stops. It it possible that the plastic boot or bump stop is faulty at 30000 miles and cause this tick noise over bumps? I have being hearing the noise at 15000. They seem to be the only possibility now unless the dealer swapped other parts around aswel lol but the master tech did say just the shocks