Yes

Without meaning to sound negative, but what it the purpose of this modification - Is it solely for looks?

I'm genuinely curious.

Yes it is but is not that too costly to upgrade if you happen to found one on ebay.

And it does bring back the Climatronic display on Columbus and other new HU , even it bring back the display for Chinese HU.

Yep, its purely cosmetic with the added bonus of restoring the climatronic display on the HU, i decided against it as in actual fact it was bloody annoying displaying every time the climatronic decided to change the temperature in the car, or fan speed or anything so went back to original controls before I cut any wires!!

Is it just me or are the last pictures from the opening post missing? Sent a message to Rob, but haven't recieved a reply yet.

Some are missing when I looked too. What are trying to work out?

I will have a FL climatronic panel (not with the heated seat option) for sale soon if anyone is interested. 

I have a trim for the FL panel and a Bolero/Stream (in silver) too.

Sorry but I can't find the pictures locally that the guide would have been referring too.

Yes Pictures are missing from the post which is important . If someone be the kind enough to re-post them again that will be very helpful .

Hi anyone knows where the defrosting m9tor located skoda oty. Need to replace cus it doesnt blow air to the windscreen.i read somewhere that i can reach it ehen removing glove box but im not sure. Thanks

I use this method and I'am very satisfy (2 motors):

1. Large black connector. Move Pin16 (Red/Blue) to Pin20 (Black/Yellow), and original Pin 20, disconnect (leave in air). 

2.On black connector B:

Pin 6 (green/white) and Pin 7 (grey/green) most be disconnected

3. On brown connector C:

Pin 7 (purple/yellow) to Pin 10 (yellow/green)

Pin 8 (blue/red) to Pin 9 (white/green)

 

In VCDS it will see problem on the recilcutation motor because you don't have signal in on Pin 7 (black connector).

When you start the climatronic unit after 3s press recirculation button and then after 3s deactivate the recirculation option and the position of the both motor is correct. Also the recircuation is working.

This process you have to repeat every time you stat the engine.

If you will let the Pin 6 and Pin 7 together you will not have the error but the 2 flaps of the 2 motors will not work corrected. 

 

Edited 15 April, 20179 yr by Traian

On 15/04/2017 at 18:52, Traian said:

Pin 7 (purple/yellow) to Pin 10 (yellow/green)

Pin 8 (blue/red) to Pin 9 (white/green)

 

Thanks for this information but do any wires need cutting or do you just loop a wire from pin7 to pin 8 ?

If anyone has any pics of how the wires/connectors look afterwards would be great.

Thanks

Edited 10 March, 20188 yr by carbonbased08

6 hours ago, carbonbased08 said:

 

Thanks for this information but do any wires need cutting or do you just loop a wire from pin7 to pin 8 ?

If anyone has any pics of how the wires/connectors look afterwards would be great.

Thanks

Cut pin 7 and glue to 10 ( will be 2 wire  7 and 10 on pin 10)

Cut pin 8 and glue to 9 ( same here)

2 minutes ago, Traian said:

Cut pin 7 and glue to 10 ( will be 2 wire  7 and 10 on pin 10)

Cut pin 8 and glue to 9 ( same here)

 

Thanks Traian 

What would be the effect of connecting the pin 20 cable to pin 16?  Why is it left cut and not connected?

Hello . I've got a 2008 pfl vrs changed to bolero and now got facia and FL controls ready to be fitted. I can't fully decide from this thread if later cars are just plug and play or what wires need swapping or if I will have full functionality ?. Can anyone advise as looking to do this in next day or two 

Edited 18 January, 20197 yr by vwnutant

For 2008 vrs I think you have only one motor, from large black connector move Pin16 (Red/Blue) to Pin20 (Black/Yellow), and original Pin 20, disconnect (leave in air). If you have 2 motor you have to do what I write on post 15 April 2017.

On 15/04/2017 at 18:52, Traian said:

I use this method and I'am very satisfy (2 motors):

1. Large black connector. Move Pin16 (Red/Blue) to Pin20 (Black/Yellow), and original Pin 20, disconnect (leave in air). 

2.On black connector B:

Pin 6 (green/white) and Pin 7 (grey/green) most be disconnected

3. On brown connector C:

Pin 7 (purple/yellow) to Pin 10 (yellow/green)

Pin 8 (blue/red) to Pin 9 (white/green)

 

In VCDS it will see problem on the recilcutation motor because you don't have signal in on Pin 7 (black connector).

When you start the climatronic unit after 3s press recirculation button and then after 3s deactivate the recirculation option and the position of the both motor is correct. Also the recircuation is working.

This process you have to repeat every time you stat the engine.

If you will let the Pin 6 and Pin 7 together you will not have the error but the 2 flaps of the 2 motors will not work corrected. 

 

 So do you need disconnect pin 6 and 7 and leave them disconnect?

Yes 

Did this on mine now pfl 2008 swapped wires works a treat thanks for help 

Got the exact unit and surround in the pic above if anyone wants to buy it, can't be bothered to install in my 2008 L&K, just found them in a box of 'to do' stuff.

On 01/06/2013 at 21:32, Rob_Quads said:

Following on from another thread on this I thought I would post my step by step guide to this.

First up you need to get a Climatronic module from a FL car (either with or without heated seats accordingly)

Basic Retrofit

This was what I started with - Stream Stereo with PreFL Climatronic Controls

First step is to remove the plastic trim surround. This just pops off. Use some trim tools to pry the trim out. There are clips all around although I found it easier to start at the top and work my way around.

Next Step is to remove the old Climatronic. Then we start with the large black connector. The first two cables we need are pin16 (Red/Blue) and pin20 (Black/Yellow)

Next cut both cables and tape up the end of pin16 from the plug and pin20 from the loom

Next solder the pin16 cable to pin20 and then tape/heat shrink to protect

To finish use some fabric tape to make it all look factory again.

2-Motor Fix

Some 2006/2007 cars seem to have 2 motors to control the recirculation fans/diverter flaps. The FL Climatronic are designed only to control a single motor unit as found in the FL cars.

If you have 2 motors, without this fix you will find that after turning the AC on, after approx 30-60 seconds the flaps will start to switch to recirculate and you will loose the fresh cold air.This involves the two smaller plugs.

First get the two plugs and separate the cables we are going to be working with

Next Cut the Pin7 (purple/yellow) & Pin8 (blue/red) cables on the brown connector and the Pin6 (green/white) cable on the black connector

Now make the following connections and solder them:

On C Connector (brown):

Pin 7 (purple/yellow) to Pin 10 (yellow/green)

Pin 8 (blue/red) to Pin 9 (white/green)

On B Connector (black):

Pin 6 (green/white) to Pin 7 (grey/green)

Tape up the joins and also the spare cables

Finally tape all the cables back together again for the factory look

All done

System Setup:

First Step - Basic settings: Hold button AC + button straight blowing (third button from left). You will see both buttons leds blinking one after another..let them run till they come to the normal status

Second Step - Compressor Settings: Starting the engine and hold LONG-AC + heating rear window.Let it run till it comes to the normal status.

To Come...Fitting Quality Sensor

Parts:

1K0 907 659 Quality Sensor (optional)

1K0 971 939 C Holder (optional)

1J0 972 483 A Quality Sensor Conector (optional)

000 979 009 E Quality Sensor Wire X2

On C Connector (black):

Pin 1 from Quality Sensor to Pin 20

Pin 2 from Quality Sensor is Ground goes to Pin 19

Pin 3 from Quality Sensor to Pin 4 on Climatronic

Thank you for this effort.

I am planning to retrofit the air quality sensor in my FL Octavia .I actually see that the T20 black connector is labelled (A) not (C) and the pins 19 & 20 are already occupied by something else. So, I wonder if I need to cut and replace those wires or merge them together with the Air Quality Sensor wires. 

 

Best!  

On 01/06/2013 at 21:32, Rob_Quads said:

Following on from another thread on this I thought I would post my step by step guide to this.

First up you need to get a Climatronic module from a FL car (either with or without heated seats accordingly)

Basic Retrofit

This was what I started with - Stream Stereo with PreFL Climatronic Controls

First step is to remove the plastic trim surround. This just pops off. Use some trim tools to pry the trim out. There are clips all around although I found it easier to start at the top and work my way around.

Next Step is to remove the old Climatronic. Then we start with the large black connector. The first two cables we need are pin16 (Red/Blue) and pin20 (Black/Yellow)

Next cut both cables and tape up the end of pin16 from the plug and pin20 from the loom

Next solder the pin16 cable to pin20 and then tape/heat shrink to protect

To finish use some fabric tape to make it all look factory again.

2-Motor Fix

Some 2006/2007 cars seem to have 2 motors to control the recirculation fans/diverter flaps. The FL Climatronic are designed only to control a single motor unit as found in the FL cars.

If you have 2 motors, without this fix you will find that after turning the AC on, after approx 30-60 seconds the flaps will start to switch to recirculate and you will loose the fresh cold air.This involves the two smaller plugs.

First get the two plugs and separate the cables we are going to be working with

Next Cut the Pin7 (purple/yellow) & Pin8 (blue/red) cables on the brown connector and the Pin6 (green/white) cable on the black connector

Now make the following connections and solder them:

On C Connector (brown):

Pin 7 (purple/yellow) to Pin 10 (yellow/green)

Pin 8 (blue/red) to Pin 9 (white/green)

On B Connector (black):

Pin 6 (green/white) to Pin 7 (grey/green)

Tape up the joins and also the spare cables

Finally tape all the cables back together again for the factory look

All done

System Setup:

First Step - Basic settings: Hold button AC + button straight blowing (third button from left). You will see both buttons leds blinking one after another..let them run till they come to the normal status

Second Step - Compressor Settings: Starting the engine and hold LONG-AC + heating rear window.Let it run till it comes to the normal status.

To Come...Fitting Quality Sensor

Parts:

1K0 907 659 Quality Sensor (optional)

1K0 971 939 C Holder (optional)

1J0 972 483 A Quality Sensor Conector (optional)

000 979 009 E Quality Sensor Wire X2

On C Connector (black):

Pin 1 from Quality Sensor to Pin 20

Pin 2 from Quality Sensor is Ground goes to Pin 19

Pin 3 from Quality Sensor to Pin 4 on Climatronic

Coming to the air quality sensor retrofit, I see that pin 20 in the T20e connector provides permanent current. I think the sensor requires to function subkey so I merged it to the voltage supply at the headlight assist module connector. I now wonder if I did the right thing or I need to connect the sensor to a permanent voltage supply. 

On 19/01/2021 at 22:36, blackspaven said:

Got the exact unit and surround in the pic above if anyone wants to buy it, can't be bothered to install in my 2008 L&K, just found them in a box of 'to do' stuff.

You still have the unit for sale ?