Hi, newbie with late 2006 Octavia Estate for all of two days. Fantastic info on here re towbars (haven't looked for anything else yet.) I'm planning a DIY install, I did a Merc C class a few years ago so don't expect too many problems with the bar itself. I am unsure, though, about the wiring. I only pull a light camping trailer with 7 pin 12N electrics, so do I need either a very expensive vehicle specific kit or a bypass relay? I think I simply scotchlocked a basic kit onto the Merc Canbus rear wiring before, so I'm hoping I can do the same - I really don't want to start pulling out all the interior trim to get to the fusebox. Any advice gratefully received.

(Apologies if this has multiple posted - tried to add to a previous topic but didn't seem to work!)

At the very least it needs to have a bypass relay, vehicle specific wiring is probably a little OTT for camping but its what skoda would fit....

Its  a fairly simple car to do but i'd allow most of the day as its complete boot strip down to allow access to bumper bolts and wiring.

We can normally do the whole job in about 90- 120 mins and we do it all day long.

Thanks aladins78, that's helpful, but can you advise if I'd be ok taking the bypass relay feed from the boot aux socket (with a kill switch for when not in use). I do run a three way fridge in the boot from the aux socket while I'm towing.

Take your point on the time involved. I did swear I'd never do another after the C Class, and to be fair have paid the pro's for two since. But I'm a bit of a recession victim at the moment.....

Actually, I do work in Hertfordshire during the week, so you might not be too far away. I'm being quoted £414 for supply and fit of a swan neck detachable (not sure which make), which is £240 more than buying a Witter detachable and fitting myself. Is it worth a chat? (Not sure of the protocols here re phone numbers etc)

Let me assure you or anyone else that not all Skoda dealers bother to fit proper Skoda wiring kits to brand new cars.

A bypass relay unit with the wires merely stripped and half twisted together, then even more half heartedly taped, is plenty sufficient for a brand new car, per Howard Abrahasms of Lurgan leastwise. Though they choose to blame the specialist independent towbar fitter.

Probably an apprentice mechanic moonlighting more like.

Marcus

Edited 9 August, 201312 yr by dieseldogg

A bypass relay unit with the wires merely stripped and half twisted together, then even more half heartedly taped.

Believe it or not one of the bypass relay manufacturers actually recommend this way!  if you've gone that far its only an extra second or 2 to solder it!!

VSK all the way. I work for a towing company and I would avoid a bypass relay at all costs. If you fit a VSK and then connect a trailer the car knows it is there and attached. If when towing it starts to snake the car will realise before you do and the ESP will act accordingly. We use autologic to reprogram the car so it works with the VSK the alarm even goes off if someone try's to disconnect your trailer. With a bypass all it does is operate the lights, the car won't even know that a trailer is attached.

Yes you need the hands of a woman to fit the fuse for the VSK but totally worth the hassle.

Not all of us have ESP so a VSK is no advantage. From the point of view of compatability and reliability, my bypass relay is four years old and not a bother.

VSK is always a better way to do it, but justifying it when its an older car and lower spec. without ESP or parking sensors then most people wont notice any difference for the extra £100-150.

If your car Has ESP and your towing anything remotely heavy or high sided then its a must really, and its one of those things you wont miss until you need it. 

If you've got front and rear sensors its useful too as it just turns off the rear, leaving the front active, handy if you miss something at the front whilst looking back.

Plus the auto cut off for the fog light on a vsk, I know people might not want to tow in the sort of conditions where you might need a fog light on but **** happens and if you need it on you don't want the trailer glowing red in your back window.

Thanks for all these useful replies. Anyone care to comment, though, on my intention to power a bypass relay from the unswitched feed to the boot aux socket? I will be using a three way fridge from the aux socket while I'm towing - is this likely to overload it? There also seems to be a live feed to the CD changer at the other side - would this be any better or worse? As you'll gather I'm really reluctant to start playing with the fusebox at the front....

I'd take it from the front, if you overload the fuse/wiring it could result in at best melted fuse/holder at worse melted wiring even a wiring burn. 

I dont know what that fuse is rated it but i'd guess fridge  light etc could pull 15-20 amps depending on your fridge, it may well be fine but its not that hard to access the fusebox.

I've just fitted a a witter bar onto my vrs estate, £105 with the bypass kit and single electrics.

Bar took me a couple of hours to fit on the drive with my ramps.

Bypass was less than an hour, ran power from battery with an in line fuse.

Looking to upgrade to twin electrics diy as it looks simple enough.

So much cheaper than I first thought.

Thanks for all these useful replies. Anyone care to comment, though, on my intention to power a bypass relay from the unswitched feed to the boot aux socket? I will be using a three way fridge from the aux socket while I'm towing - is this likely to overload it? There also seems to be a live feed to the CD changer at the other side - would this be any better or worse? As you'll gather I'm really reluctant to start playing with the fusebox at the front....

I would if I were you (and I did myself) run a suitable wire along the sill under the glovebox and through a rubber grommet (already present) and into the engine compartment. Then use a ring connector to take power from one if the spare fuse positions on the front of the fuse box. There are several 6mm bolts there supplying 80 plus amps to various systems. There are a couple of bolts spare and you can include an in-line fuse to protect your relay.

If you also need power to the towbar socket that's the perfect place to take it.

Edited 13 August, 201312 yr by FriendlyFire