Low frequency 'boom' in cabin

[XDrN]

Hi everyone,

I have a 2016 VRS estate which has a slight pressure effect with a boot that is very easy to shut. I read earlier that adjusting the latch helps and there are good pictures to show how to do this but I wanted to adjust the rubber stops first. They don't actually touch the frame when the boot is shut so that might lead to a bit extra movement when driving. My question is how are these adjusted because on the estate they aren't the screw types.

Cheers.

[Watsy]

I had a fiddle with my latch this evening and I'm almost reluctant to write this in case it bites me on the ass, but I've had the most comfortable drive in my car so far in the short time I've had it. I had seen posts with pictures where folks had moved the latch forward to create a secure fit so that there was no boot movement. However, like others I found that when the boot was only closed on the latch and not pushed tight that the pressure symptoms (and those that suffered the boom) would go away. So in a way it didn't make sense that closing the boot really tight would help matters when for me it was best when it wasn't closed properly.

 

My boot had a really good seal and closed very tight and after removing the back panel (I have hatch so estate could be different), sure enough the latch was as far forward as it could go. This evening I loosened the two bolts and moved the latch back a bit hoping this wouldn't create a good as seal giving a similar effect to the boot not being closed properly. If you move it back too far unfortunately it'll sit up higher than the quarter panels at the side so I had to adjust it so that it doesn't look like a defect. I left it so that it's probably about 1mm higher than the quarter panels but it's only noticeable if you drop down to that level and look at it. The downside is the boot doesn't close with a reassuring thunk that it did but to be honest I wouldn't care too much about that as it's a small price to pay for the improvement in driving. I also moved the 2 side adjusters down as opposed to fully up although I'm not sure if that contributed to the help or not.

 

I took it out a good run this evening to my parents and in places where I had the pressure symptoms before I had nothing. Another strange improvement is that often when getting the symptoms I would have to turn the stereo down as I felt it was too boomy or contributing to the effect. No such thing tonight, the music was up and I was actually enjoying it. 

I'm hoping it's not a whole placebo thing but I genuinely can't see that being the case and I'm looking forward to giving it a run to work in the morning. If that's it sorted I'll be over the moon as I felt it was such a huge downside to what should have been a great car for me and I'm also hoping it'll put and end to the boiled sweet and chewing gum jokes my mates would have come off with for helping their ears. 

 

Anyways, I'll see how it goes over the next few days and fingers crossed it'll stay an improvement.

[Paden]

I had a fiddle with my latch this evening and I'm almost reluctant to write this in case it bites me on the ass, but I've had the most comfortable drive in my car so far in the short time I've had it. I had seen posts with pictures where folks had moved the latch forward to create a secure fit so that there was no boot movement. However, like others I found that when the boot was only closed on the latch and not pushed tight that the pressure symptoms (and those that suffered the boom) would go away. So in a way it didn't make sense that closing the boot really tight would help matters when for me it was best when it wasn't closed properly.

My boot had a really good seal and closed very tight and after removing the back panel (I have hatch so estate could be different), sure enough the latch was as far forward as it could go. This evening I loosened the two bolts and moved the latch back a bit hoping this wouldn't create a good as seal giving a similar effect to the boot not being closed properly. If you move it back too far unfortunately it'll sit up higher than the quarter panels at the side so I had to adjust it so that it doesn't look like a defect. I left it so that it's probably about 1mm higher than the quarter panels but it's only noticeable if you drop down to that level and look at it. The downside is the boot doesn't close with a reassuring thunk that it did but to be honest I wouldn't care too much about that as it's a small price to pay for the improvement in driving. I also moved the 2 side adjusters down as opposed to fully up although I'm not sure if that contributed to the help or not.

I took it out a good run this evening to my parents and in places where I had the pressure symptoms before I had nothing. Another strange improvement is that often when getting the symptoms I would have to turn the stereo down as I felt it was too boomy or contributing to the effect. No such thing tonight, the music was up and I was actually enjoying it.

I'm hoping it's not a whole placebo thing but I genuinely can't see that being the case and I'm looking forward to giving it a run to work in the morning. If that's it sorted I'll be over the moon as I felt it was such a huge downside to what should have been a great car for me and I'm also hoping it'll put and end to the boiled sweet and chewing gum jokes my mates would have come off with for helping their ears.

Anyways, I'll see how it goes over the next few days and fingers crossed it'll stay an improvement.

Hey Watsy

Hope it stays fixed! [emoji2]

When you say you moved the latch back, do you mean towards the rear of the car?

Or towards the front when viewed looking into the boot?

Cheers, Paul

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk

[skd12]

I gave my boot floor the SilentCoat treatment similar to the link above and it has made a good difference. I was getting a nauseous/headache feeling when driving my car for more than a few minutes at a time but haven't noticed it since fitting that stuff.

 

I didn't cover the entire boot floor, probably only 2/3 of the surface area so it doesn't look as neat but then again it's under the carpet so not noticeable. It's relatively cheap and very little effort so worth a try.

[0voyager0]

What SilentCoat product did you use?

[skipptg]

I had the OE fit Bridgestone Potenza S001 tyres replaced with Goodyear Eagle F1 A3s this morning, despite the car only being 3 weeks/800 miles old. What a difference!

 

There is clearly a budget level of soundproofing in these cars, but ditching those S001s has made a big difference to cabin noise.

 

[ExSEAT]

I've Just had a call from the dealer, they've checked mine over after speaking to Skoda. They recommended all gaps etc were checked for tolerance. They've done this, adjusted the striker and the 'bumps' So it closes more tightly. Road tested it and they say it seems ok. I'll know better when I pick it up. To be fair it's lessened over the last week or so anyway and I have a rubber mat in there. I'm going to spend a couple of hours this week applying a liberal coat of silent coat 2mm to the boot well anyway as it's worth it for 30 quid. I will report back on my unscientific findings!

[glosrich]

To make it more scientific would it be worth some of us, doing some decibel readings with a smart phone app, at say 30mph, 50mph etc?

 

You could tell the difference then, when tyres are changed, soundproofing applied etc etc.

 

I had a quick go once, and was getting around 70 decibels I think at 50mph.

[JohnMorr]

I had the OE fit Bridgestone Potenza S001 tyres replaced with Goodyear Eagle F1 A3s this morning, despite the car only being 3 weeks/800 miles old. What a difference!

 

There is clearly a budget level of soundproofing in these cars, but ditching those S001s has made a big difference to cabin noise.

Dare I ask how much the change cost? I have the Bridgestones as well and they are very sensitive to the road surface - noisy in the UK, quiet in France. However the soundproofing on our L&K is exemplary apart from road noise, which is obviously fed directly into the structure - which I can't imagine interior surface damping helping.

[skipptg]

£387 from blackcircles, fitted.  Obviously less whatever I can sell the S001s for on eBay.

[Gerrycan]

To make it more scientific would it be worth some of us, doing some decibel readings with a smart phone app, at say 30mph, 50mph etc?

 

You could tell the difference then, when tyres are changed, soundproofing applied etc etc.

 

I had a quick go once, and was getting around 70 decibels I think at 50mph.

Testing would have to be on the same bit of road and road conditions, preferably dry.

[Watsy]

Hey Watsy

Hope it stays fixed! [emoji2]

When you say you moved the latch back, do you mean towards the rear of the car?

Or towards the front when viewed looking into the boot?

Cheers, Paul

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk

Hi Paden, I moved it towards the rear of the car. Only thing I notice now is the parcel shelf seems to be rattling a bit which is frustrating also. I tried moved the latch forward again to stop the shelf rattling but got the pressure sensation in my ears again. When I get a chance I'll see if I can stop the shelf rattling as I think it'll be easier to sort that having to put up with sore ears.

[XDrN]

Anyone have an idea?

Cheers.

Hi everyone,

I have a 2016 VRS estate which has a slight pressure effect with a boot that is very easy to shut. I read earlier that adjusting the latch helps and there are good pictures to show how to do this but I wanted to adjust the rubber stops first. They don't actually touch the frame when the boot is shut so that might lead to a bit extra movement when driving. My question is how are these adjusted because on the estate they aren't the screw types.

Cheers.

[Srejber]

Hi everyone,

I have a 2016 VRS estate which has a slight pressure effect with a boot that is very easy to shut. I read earlier that adjusting the latch helps and there are good pictures to show how to do this but I wanted to adjust the rubber stops first. They don't actually touch the frame when the boot is shut so that might lead to a bit extra movement when driving. My question is how are these adjusted because on the estate they aren't the screw types.

Cheers.

yes there are torx screws under the black cover, you have to remove black plastic cover, use a standard screwdriver or small knife to get between the cover and the body of the stopper and "crack" it

[Alpha2110]

I have bought some silent coat and am waiting for a nice day, one thing I have just thought of regarding it's instalation is this. The idea of this stuff is to attenuate vibration in two ways, 1 changing the resonant point of the material you have stuck it to, 2 attenuating the vibration amplitude.

This is my question, what difference is it going to make for those who have a spare wheel, I suspect a little. But I think th he biggest difference is buy a spare wheel for those who don't have one. I am going to put some under the rear seets and boot walls.

I think the tyres should make a big difference as the conternental eco 5 premium are the most noisy tyres I have ever owned but I can't bring my self to sell tyres with a lot of life left in.

Does any one have any idea on how long these should last on this car, moderate mixed driving?.

[AdamMin]

I have bought some silent coat and am waiting for a nice day, one thing I have just thought of regarding it's instalation is this. The idea of this stuff is to attenuate vibration in two ways, 1 changing the resonant point of the material you have stuck it to, 2 attenuating the vibration amplitude.

This is my question, what difference is it going to make for those who have a spare wheel, I suspect a little. But I think th he biggest difference is buy a spare wheel for those who don't have one. I am going to put some under the rear seets and boot walls.

I think the tyres should make a big difference as the conternental eco 5 premium are the most noisy tyres I have ever owned but I can't bring my self to sell tyres with a lot of life left in.

Does any one have any idea on how long these should last on this car, moderate mixed driving?.

I think you're looking at c.15k - 20k (maybe a bit more on the rears). I am in the same position and am looking around for quieter tyres (Michelin cross climates get good reviews)

[drand82]

I've had a 16plate SE 1.4TSI estate for a month now, and no problems with noise/pressure thankfully.

[Paden]

I had a fiddle with my latch this evening and I'm almost reluctant to write this in case it bites me on the ass, but I've had the most comfortable drive in my car so far in the short time I've had it. I had seen posts with pictures where folks had moved the latch forward to create a secure fit so that there was no boot movement. However, like others I found that when the boot was only closed on the latch and not pushed tight that the pressure symptoms (and those that suffered the boom) would go away. So in a way it didn't make sense that closing the boot really tight would help matters when for me it was best when it wasn't closed properly.

Hey all

Does anyone know off-hand the torx size of the screws that retain the boot latch?

The biggest I have is T30 which was too small so will need to go shopping :-)

 

Cheers, Paul

[Watsy]

Hey all

Does anyone know off-hand the torx size of the screws that retain the boot latch?

The biggest I have is T30 which was too small so will need to go shopping :-)

 

Cheers, Paul

 

I used a T40 which is the largest I had, it fitted but it seemed it wasn't an entirely snug fit and there was a little bit of play. It does work and won't slip or anything but the correct size might be one size up from a T40. 

[Paden]

I used a T40 which is the largest I had, it fitted but it seemed it wasn't an entirely snug fit and there was a little bit of play. It does work and won't slip or anything but the correct size might be one size up from a T40.

Thanks Watsy, turned out to be a TX45.

Noted that if I fixed the latch straight the tailgate would be higher on one side when shut, so I've left it not straight.

Tailgate now closes nicely under its own weight.

Will see how things go over the next few days :-)

Cheers, Paul

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk

Edited 17 April, 2016 by Paden

[glosrich]

Found and fixed a rattle today.

The height adjust handle on the drivers seat rattles again the seat trim, especially over rough roads.

I thought it was the drivers cubby/glovebox first but no.

Stuck a felt coin sticker behind it, no more rattles!

[skd12]

What SilentCoat product did you use?

 

 

This one

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silent-Coat-Hatchback-Car-Boot-Sound-Proofing-Pack-2mm-Mat-Deadening-Insulation-/181614920735?hash=item2a4917c41f:g:pT0AAOSwCQNWcsfZ

 

I used a decorating seam roller to flatten it onto the surfaces.

Edited 18 April, 2016 by xdq

[glosrich]

I'll try to get some decibel readings up as a benchmark for others to compare to.

[0voyager0]

This one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silent-Coat-Hatchback-Car-Boot-Sound-Proofing-Pack-2mm-Mat-Deadening-Insulation-/181614920735?hash=item2a4917c41f:g:pT0AAOSwCQNWcsfZ

I used a decorating seam roller to flatten it onto the surfaces.

Thanks.

[Alpha2110]

Does anyone have a part number for after market dampers for a 2l deisel se, as I can only see performance parts. Just in case the silent coat I have bought do sent help.

Edited 18 April, 2016 by Alpha2110