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  • is it a single 'boom' or is it three 'boom's' in a row followed by a 'lemme hear you say 'wheyyyooooooooo'?

  • My VRS 230 hatch (demo 900 miles on the clock) exhibited the booming / pressure in the cabin on the pre-purchase test drive. The dealer acknowledged the issue and gave me written confirmation they wo

  • Have you tried adjusting the striker plate as well? In my case the buffer adjustments did not solve the booming issue, I had to adjust the striker plate as well. My boot lid closed too easily ie. wi

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Just a thought, but have any of these cars got spare tyres? I think the weight of the Octy 3 was reduced by using thinner high tensile steel. I would have thought the spare would damp that panel at least.

No spare on mine.

Just a thought, but have any of these cars got spare tyres? I think the weight of the Octy 3 was reduced by using thinner high tensile steel. I would have thought the spare would damp that panel at least.

I have a spare on the MK3 and don't get it, hence saying add some mass to the floor and that area and you'll probably find it goes away.

If it does, then dynamat/carpet insulate it.

On the MK2 there was roadnoise from the spare wheel well like a drum and if you put the wheel back in it went away a lot. If you did what I suggested it was very much quieter at the rear.

So if somebody who has this fancies dropping a sealed bag of sand etc in the spare wheel well and some more mass on the boot floor, we can see if it's that or something else.

I think there are 2 problems, there is the boom air pressure issue and the road noise, I don't think there related. If the air vent is under the boot floor could it be the boot floor is causing too much of a good seal.? Actually I went for a drive in my car this morning and now I have ear ache, I hope it's psychosomatic after reading this thread.

I am going to order some soundproofing but if there is no fix I am going to get shot of it.

Edited by Alpha2110

I've got a spare but, I've never had the boom in a MY14 hatch

One thing I might try is load the boot up with 150kg worth of gravel bags to see if that helps. It might be because it's unloaded.

I have a good idea, I'll take the pain killers before I use the car. This way i am garrented not to have ear ache.

Edited by Alpha2110

I've got a spare but, I've never had the boom in a MY14 hatch

Out of curiosity what tyres do you have?

I think there are 2 problems, there is the boom air pressure issue and the road noise, I don't then there related. If the air vent is under the boot floor could it be the boot floor is causing too much of a good seal.? Actually I went for a drive in my car this morning and now I have ear ache, I hope it's psychosomatic after reading this thread.

I am going to order some soundproofing but if there is no fix I am going to get shot of it.

I agree with you about there being two different problems.

The air vent is at the rear right hand side behind the recess, it is not large and the route the air has to take is somewhat tortuous. It is enough to cater for the aircon fan but seems inadequate for sudden pressures caused by movement on any poor fitting boot hatch on combi or hatchback. This is the pressure problem and it can be fixed and many have done it themselves and described the process in this thread. My tight fitting rear door does not have a problem unless it is not closed properly, just on the first 'catch', only did it once but it hurt my ears when I hit a bump.

 

The drumming or resonance, from that boot floor, can occur on any Octavia but is usually associated with another problem, such as suspension issues, tyres or a loose rear seat backrest.

Again mine is not too bad even though I have the basic torsion beam rear suspension, but I do have the 16 inch spare spacesaver and I have chocked the outside of the wheel with some firm foam which seemed to reduce what little there was.

My Mk3 has far less road noise than my previous Mk2. Neither had/has any insulation to speak off but I think the 17 inch Dunlop MaxxSport tyres on my Mk3 are pretty quiet and have relatively low rolling resistance. I know that when I had to put the spacesaver on the rear tyre due to a puncture I was appalled by the noise that one tyre created in the car (not drumming or resonance) even when running at the required lower speeds. It was a relief to get the proper tyre fixed and installed despite the fact the OEM tyres are 22k km old when you expect them to start to get noisier.

I was definitely aware of drumming when I had a heavy deflated 'bouncy castle' in the rear of the car and drove over a badly corrugated dirt road. Probably showing the limitations of the fairly average dampers fitted on the car, when they need replacing I'll probably try something different.

I'll have to wait until tomorrow to hear my fake excuse from the dealer. The smart money is on 'never heard of that before' with an outside chance of 'they all do that sir'

 

And dont forget about "Its because of the tyres"

Out of curiosity what tyres do you have?

Originally, Dunlop Primacy HP but, now on Conti Sport Contact 5's.  Mine has 225/45/R17 the Conti's seem to have a very little extra road noise but, handles so much better.

 

Regards

T

Just tralling through this thread and noticed someone mentioned spring loaded buffers on the boot. My car is an MY16 and has no spring loaded buffers. I will ask the dealer and I am prepared to just buy them, I am going to get some sound proofing for the boot floor, not dynomat mat as it's very expensive.

Has any one successfully bought after market standard bilstin rear shocks? There site does not show the mk3 as an option. Or any mqb platform for that matter. I don't want lowered, or stiffer. Just higher quality ones.

Edited by Alpha2110

Just for the record I have the spare in mine, the noise slapping my ears isn't horrendous it's just very annoying. I have a rubber boot may coming this week which I'm going to leave in for a few days and see what the difference is. I'll be looking to have the vents checked from what I've read and ultimately if it makes my car better I will try the dynamat but only after giving the dealer an absolute nightmare!

My Altea's cabin vents are in the rear panel under the boot latch plate - about 350mm long & 20mm wide. Alteas have the variable boot floor as standard and its always been in place plus the void is full of shopping 'bags for life' and other crap, never had any drumming/pulsing noises (unless the rear windows are open) or cabin pressure problems, car also has a spare wheel/tool set.
A bit of an extreme experiment but I wonder if cutting holes in the rear panel would relieve the pressure problem........

No issues here apart from the usual road noise.

 

I do have a full size spare and also the Skoda rubber matt so maybe that helps.

 

My biggest gripe is the road noise and clicking from behind the seat belt holder. Would happily try out some dynamatt or similar if it cut down the road noise a bit.

 

Has anyone fully sound proofed a mk3 and noted the difference. Its a great car but its really starting to **** me off.

No issues here apart from the usual road noise.

 

I do have a full size spare and also the Skoda rubber matt so maybe that helps.

 

My biggest gripe is the road noise and clicking from behind the seat belt holder. Would happily try out some dynamatt or similar if it cut down the road noise a bit.

 

Has anyone fully sound proofed a mk3 and noted the difference. Its a great car but its really starting to **** me off.

 

Really fancy soundproofing mine when it arrives regardless. But stripping out the interior and removing all the door panels is a daunting thought on a new car.....

Really fancy soundproofing mine when it arrives regardless. But stripping out the interior and removing all the door panels is a daunting thought on a new car.....

 

I'm with you - considering how rattly the bloody thing is anyway the last thing I want to do is make it worse my taking it apart. 

 

I'll certainly be paying the dealership a visit to see if they can resolve the seatbelt clicking though

I'm with you - considering how rattly the bloody thing is anyway the last thing I want to do is make it worse my taking it apart. 

 

I'll certainly be paying the dealership a visit to see if they can resolve the seatbelt clicking though

 

Well, if its rattling now and you can identify where the rattles are coming from (as you can), at least if you strip it you can find and fix the said rattle and put it back together fixed!

I picked up my car yesterday. I'm happy to report that there's no booming that I can discern. Is it something that could appear over time?

I am going down to soundproof the boot and that's it, I don't want to risk snapping parts taking doors and roof linings to bits.

I am going down to soundproof the boot and that's it, I don't want to risk snapping parts taking doors and roof linings to bits.

 

Is yours the Estate? Let us know how you get on.

Is yours the Estate? Let us know how you get on.

Mine is a 2.0 deisel MY16 estate, I should have the mods done in a few weeks. I'm still interested in if you can buy spring loaded boot stops, as my car does not have them.

I picked up my car yesterday. I'm happy to report that there's no booming that I can discern. Is it something that could appear over time?

We're down for a test-drive in an estate this week, let's hope that it's quiet & that the spring-loaded boot stops have been fitted at the factory!

 

DC

I picked up my car yesterday. I'm happy to report that there's no booming that I can discern. Is it something that could appear over time?

Unlikely, as the pressure problem is an ill-fitted boot lid on hatch or estate, so if yours is like mine then it needs a fairly firm closure to get it to shut properly so there is no movement.

 

The booming noise (not pressure related) is a different issue and it probably means that your vehicle's components (tyres, shocks, whatever) are to specification so you should be fine unless something changes.

Thanks, Gerrycan. That's good to know.

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