Upgrading car speakers after collecting new car...

[fabdavrav]

The actual speakers are different compared to the very basic "stock" speakers.

 

I know on the MK& Golf that the Dynaudio "Excite" systems the speakers are defo way better in build as have see picture of them side by side with the standard ones.

 

However the MK7 Golf has an ace up its sleeve...we have the subwoofer in the spare wheel..so it uses the well as a sounding box...way better bass...especially with the floor in the raised level position...

[stever750]

I gave up spending money on in car audio upgrades, given the road noise and shape of the listening room it's never going to be hi fi. Stock system is perfectly capable of overwhelming road noise with a pretty decent sq given the limitations, unless you want the entire street to know what you are listening to. If you heed to turn the bass up by more than +2/+3 then you've strayed way beyond hi fi territory. 

I'm comparing this to my home system which is pretty reasonable (hegel, ATC, JL Audio) as the reference, and no in car system comes close (FWIW b&o are not generally regarded as serious audiophile products, and as for Bose....). I'm surprised why some of these domestic component manufacturers get into automotive, it's highly cost driven, low margin business. 

[stever750]

On 26/09/2017 at 20:38, fabdavrav said:

 

 

I know on the MK& Golf that the Dynaudio "Excite" systems the speakers are defo way better in build as have see picture of them side by side with the standard ones.

 

Except you don't use your eyes to hear music with. Looks are irrelevant to audio performance. 

[fabdavrav]

12 minutes ago, stever750 said:

Except you don't use your eyes to hear music with. Looks are irrelevant to audio performance. 

 

I know that, just qualifying that the Dynaudio are better built than the basic standard speakers..

 

Anyway everyone's hearing is different, so sound quality to some degree is "subjective".

 

& yes the Dynaudio is way better than the standard systems...IMHO..

[stever750]

Yes I'd like expect that, Dynaudio make some excellent speakers, though not known for their electronics. 

[hitmn]

On 9/26/2017 at 08:42, Jaco2k said:

You call bull**** to all the other contents of this thread and come in with all guns blazing, but...

...where are the much more essential measures about the depth for the front woofers with door windows down?

 

Also, if you are going to change woofers, I assume you change tweeters too - would be useful to know those sizes.

 

Of course that it is commendable to make efforts on behalf of the community, and for that you should be praised, but you should maybe have a more moderate language.

So ...
The depth of the front speakers to the glass is exactly as shown on the picture. The green cap i was using for more precise measurements

[hitmn]

Will try to power up some 60W-90W speakers with stock canton amp. But I'm pretty sure that THD will be greater, because the power cables of the MIB 2 amplifier under the seat in my opinion are just not enough. The perfect setup will be with additional amp under the passenger seat with some 15-20 mm2 cable and RMS for example 4x70-100. The signal must be taken on high level, because there is no other cheap option,other is optic and the amp is way more expensive. And this only if you want to get the most of this car music capabilities.
This all combined with Silent Coat on floor and doors. Total price around 1000 euro if using HERTZ amp and MilePro speakers. 
Probably the project is getting mature in my head for now and I'm sure it is not for normal people

[brettikivi]

if you have optical, why aren't you going DSP? The DPower 4 should also be good for this with a relatively small footprint and a decent power output. 

 

 

I gave up spending money on in car audio upgrades, given the road noise and shape of the listening room it's never going to be hi fi. Stock system is perfectly capable of overwhelming road noise with a pretty decent sq given the limitations, unless you want the entire street to know what you are listening to. If you heed to turn the bass up by more than +2/+3 then you've strayed way beyond hi fi territory. 

I'm comparing this to my home system which is pretty reasonable (hegel, ATC, JL Audio) as the reference, and no in car system comes close (FWIW b&o are not generally regarded as serious audiophile products, and as for Bose....). I'm surprised why some of these domestic component manufacturers get into automotive, it's highly cost driven, low margin business. 

Partly because of the challenge. DSP is extremely powerful now and it makes it a lot easier to do decent XOs without spending loads on components.

The SQ of the standard system is limited by the bass limits with speed-sensitivity on. That's the starting point, never mind the different capabilities through different sources. It also compresses horribly when you turn it up and gets incredibly screechy at times. Partly that's the source but I suspect the combo of amp and tweeter - with a probable cap as "crossover" on the tweeter only - is a limiting factor. Replacing the amp would help, a sub would be even better and then replacing the drivers... 

 

I remember having a 2006 XC90 as a rental once and it had the Dynaudio setup in it. I spent some time tuning it and it was truly excellent. Minimal road noise and a decently dimensioned amp with sub, DSP and multiple speakers was impressive. Same thing in a V50 I had a few years later - the car stuff they build is a decent starting point, with beefier chassis with better suspensions, so you get nicer transient responses and generally a nicer sound. Add in a real XO and DSP and things start to get very interesting. It's one of the reasons I'm wondering why Canton don't seem to have done as much with the Octy setup as they might have done...probably built to a price. 

 

- Bret

Edited 3 October, 2017 by brettikivi

[hitmn]

now ... 
2 days ago bought Columbus head unit. removing standard bolero and placing Columbus made the sound in the car brutally better. So in my opinion reaching this point of view  only changing the speaker will do the job.
Difference in the units (not CANTON AMP) is very big and the sound depth is definitely better.
And the big question ... to put 13 cm or 16.5 cm ? with adapters of course ...
 

Edited 10 October, 2017 by hitmn

[hitmn]

Installed 2 way component system - FOCAL PS 165 FX. After a lot of play with sound settings can say : The amp is clipping... so the speakers are too powerful for the amp.
In conclusion, all my fellow Bulgarians that are reading this and are going to take money from their customers for "know how" The maximum speaker wattage must be around 60W, not more for stock MIB 2 Amp.

[z klasse]

Just wondering if anyone has put better speakers on the VRS Octavia MK3 which came with the Amundsen HU? The sound doesn't go too loud and I agree that it could be suppressed to avoid warranty claims and also any sort of rattling. I do not wish to add amplifiers as such and am just looking for better sound with the stock HU. Attaching a picture of what the Head Unit looks like in the 2017 Amundsen.

 

I was thinking of MB Quart ZC1-216 6.5" 240W RMS Z-Line Series Component Speakers System for front and back but am not sure how good it will be over the stock setup. 

 

Any inputs would gladly help

[z klasse]

Whilst researching online, I managed to find these. Dont know how good they are. Claim to be German.

 

https://www.soumatrix.com/products/skoda-oe-sound-upgrade-speaker-kit-test?variant=52054289621

[Guest]

3 hours ago, z klasse said:

J I do not wish to add amplifiers as such and am just looking for better sound with the stock HU. Attaching a picture of what the Head Unit looks like in the 2017 Amundsen.

 

I was thinking of MB Quart ZC1-216 6.5" 240W RMS Z-Line Series Component Speakers System for front and back but am not sure how good it will be over the stock setup. 

 

Any inputs would gladly help

 

 

I'm sure this has been mentioned somewhere b4 but a speaker is only as good as the power and signal it's fed.  Check the specs of the speaker you want to install and you'll see they require a min. input.  The headunit doesn't meet those min requirements (the current std speakers do). Adding those speakers to the std headunit will actually result in a worse sound rather than improve it over the current speakers.

 

You really have no option but to boost the power for those aftermarket speakers to work - you'll need to add amplification.

 

Basically you have to spend lots of money if you want to improve the sound - there's no simple way round it.

 

Edited 21 July, 2018 by Guest

[z klasse]

Apologies I did not find the topic. I was seeing speakers but I am not sure for Amplifier as it will be too much of a headache for wiring and fitting. Unless anything simpler is there. Been reading that VCDS sound can be unlocked or adjusted by doing the following: 

Byte 5 select Bit 00 – Equalization: Linear

Have you tried this? 

 

Also I found this online :

 

https://www.soumatrix.com/products/skoda-oe-sound-upgrade-speaker-kit-test?variant=52054289621

 

And

 

https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/headunits-for-skoda/i902d-oc3

 

 

[Guest]

12 minutes ago, z klasse said:

Apologies I did not find the topic. I was seeing speakers but I am not sure for Amplifier as it will be too much of a headache for wiring and fitting. Unless anything simpler is there. Been reading that VCDS sound can be unlocked or adjusted by doing the following: 

Byte 5 select Bit 00 – Equalization: Linear

Have you tried this? 

 

Also I found this online :

 

https://www.soumatrix.com/products/skoda-oe-sound-upgrade-speaker-kit-test?variant=52054289621

 

And

 

https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/headunits-for-skoda/i902d-oc3

 

 

 

There's no way around spending lots of money and it will require many headaches to improve the sound. There's no quick fix

Edited 21 July, 2018 by Guest

[z klasse]

So I’ve heard. The sound is not bad. It’s just average for the amount we pay for the car.  Especially in India. Hope to figure out the VCDS. 

[z klasse]

On 19/02/2014 at 02:36, Aknedude said:

No cutting in wires, forget the cable nightmare, had mine for a week now and its sound sooooooo much better.

Hey.. Which speakers have you installed for the Amundsen? I have the Mk3 VRS and its so bad with the speakers. Hardly any bass and you take them any higher and they tend to make the overall sound worse. Did you upgrade the speakers only? If yes which ones? Was it a simple install? I dont want to go the amplifier way but want something thats simple to install.

[Genoa1893]

In ANY case, do yourself a favour and replace the electrolytic c(r)ap with a MKP one (for example Visaton makes them for speakers).

 

You'll hear a great difference.

[z klasse]

Sorry a little confused. Can you elaborate or send me a link? 

Just now, Genoa1893 said:

In ANY case, do yourself a favour and replace the electrolytic c(r)ap with a MKP one (for example Visaton makes them for speakers).

 

You'll hear a great difference.

 

[Genoa1893]

Of course,

standard tweeters are filtered with a electrolytic-cap (a small can). There is a thread with pictures on the MkIII forum, somewhere.

 

But in audio it is a well known fact that electrolytic caps are soundwise terrible.

 

On my previous MkII it was easy to access tweeters, so I simply snipped the old caps and replaced with one MKP cap (it is not a brand, is a type).

 

Obvious result: the sound was head and shoulders improved!

 

Cost: a few Euros/Pounds.

 

HTH,

 

 

[z klasse]

Sounds good any link to which one specifically then I can get it. 

 

Ill try a google search. 

3 minutes ago, Genoa1893 said:

Of course,

standard tweeters are filtered with a electrolytic-cap (a small can). There is a thread with pictures on the MkIII forum, somewhere.

 

But in audio it is a well known fact that electrolytic caps are soundwise terrible.

 

On my previous MkII it was easy to access tweeters, so I simply snipped the old caps and replaced with one MKP cap (it is not a brand, is a type).

 

Obvious result: the sound was head and shoulders improved!

 

Cost: a few Euros/Pounds.

 

HTH,

 

 

 

[Genoa1893]

Go to farnell/mouser/RS electronics or go to local shop and search for the value you look for (you can search for the std values, check the thread, or for other suggestions), the costs are really on the cheap side.

 

Values may depend on the tweeter spec.

 

In a first order implementation, fcut = 1/(2pi*R*C), if I recall well

[z klasse]

Thanks but bro I’m from India. I think you are talking about a capacitor if I’m not mistaken. 

[Genoa1893]

5 minutes ago, z klasse said:

Thanks but bro I’m from India. I think you are talking about a capacitor if I’m not mistaken. 

Sorry, don't know Indian suppliers. You could do the following; snip the cap attached to your standard speaker, read the values, shop for same values but with a MKP capacitor (if you exchange the speaker, a different value might be more suitable), enjoy.

[z klasse]

Will try this. I was looking for better overall sound including better speakers. 

1 minute ago, Genoa1893 said:

Sorry, don't know Indian suppliers. You could do the following; snip the cap attached to your standard speaker, read the values, shop for same values but with a MKP capacitor (if you exchange the speaker, a different value might be more suitable), enjoy.