Daniels Blue 182

[Dann2707]

Thought i'd update with a few little things i'm working on at the moment.

 

I'm planning on polybushing the anti roll bar drop links on the rear whiteline one with these. They're pretty damn solid compared to the rubber ones you get with the RARB. My only gripe is that they're for M8 threaded rod whereas my drop links are M10.

 

I tried drilling them out today and not a chance! They just conform to the shape of the drill. Does anyone have any ideas on how to solve it? Thinking maybe melting it bigger or simply taking the droplink off and threading it on as it probably would go on.

 

20160523_203054 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Secondly, I received some centre caps (£4.99 delivered) for the team dynamics. They look absolutely garbage on as seen but i'm thinking of fitting these to it   http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-Renault-emblem-60mm-wheel-center-cap-sticker-logo-badge-wheel-trims-Carbon-/191874408802?hash=item2cac9b2162:g:3l4AAOSwo6lWGX1n

 

What do people think?

 

20160522_180049 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160523_203126 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Next! I removed the runners on my seats a few months back and it's made the seats absolutely solid. There's no sideway flex at all now which is awesome. As a result though i'm low as ****. Really really low. So my Dad got me some alu from work and I drilled new holes in it today for the seat sidemounts to sit on to raise me. I've got 4 of those so I can raise myself 20mm in total which should be ideal.

 

20160523_203317 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Finally, I had a thought last week that i'd like to extend the gearstick below the pivot point to shorten the throw. The BMS shifter does this by cutting it in half and welding some tube on and bending the stick but I want something that I don't have to get welded or bending the stick. I wanted to create something so you can fine tune the throw of the gearstick, along with the angle of it.

 

Thanks to [uSER=58038]@Dr Jekyll[/uSER] for measuring the diameter of the original gearstick at the bottom.

 

The idea is pretty simple, it involves some stainless tubing and a bit of measuring.

 

OD = 18mm

ID = 12mm (original dia rod is 11.95mm)

Wall thickness = 3mm

 

20160523_203245 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

This is the idea, it will shorten the throw and also bring the gearstick closer to the driver, the standard position is WAY too close to the radio. The original gearstick will be cut in half.

 

20160519_164626 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

The rod will have 4 x M5 tapped threads, with grub screws and locking nyloc nuts to hold the two parts of the rod

 

20160523_203235 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

With the grub screws being held in by nylocs it shouldn't be an issue.

 

If anyone can see any problems that might arise, would be great if you could shout. Thanks

[Adam_]

2nd favourite non Skoda project. Love it.

[Dann2707]

2nd favourite non Skoda project. Love it.

 

Thanks mate! That's really kind of you.

 

Did some Solidworks modelling tonight just so people can understand more as to why i'm doing it. Plus I love solidworks so much.

 

 

Original (gearstick in neutral):

 

Standard gearstick by dann2707, on Flickr

 

Modified using my linkage adjuster:

 

Note how the gearstick is now tilted back towards the driver despite the bottom of the gearstick (which attaches to the gearbox linkage) is in the same position. yay

 

Modified gearstick by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

That angle is also completely up to me dependant on how much I bend the rod.

[Toxicvrs]

Very interesting. Well aware of how ****e the Clio gear linkage is

[Dann2707]

I'll finally do my write up for the cage and other things this weekend. 

 

This is how the eBay cage comes after unwrapping it. Obviously it needs painting as the raw look doesn't do it justice.

 

My initial impressions are that it looks well built, the welds are fairly shoddy in places but it's mig and it will never look as beautiful as tig.

 

20160528_132902 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

I cleaned it all up with P800 wet and dry first and degreased it, thenetch primered it with a few tins first.

 

20160528_135803 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Then two tins of matt black. As I went straight from etch primer to paint it looks like it's been anodised. Really happy with the outcome doing it that way.

 

20160528_144431 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160528_144438 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

And Matty came over to help with the build. He's currently in the back.

 

20160529_121340 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160529_121348 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

If you look closely you may be able to see his shaft because upshotcrotchshot

 

20160529_121411 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

The harnesses are out as are the seats

 

20160529_122258 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

We then slid the cage in, it's pretty ****ing tight and the subframes do have to come out to give better access as we found out.

 

20160529_123440 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160529_123445 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160529_125747 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

20160529_133155 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

The cage was then offered up to the rear arch after the fabric was pulled back etc

 

20160529_133207 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

The feet were also offered up to where they were going to be drilled.

 

20160529_133210 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

At this point we needed some nuts and bolts.

 

The holes in the feet are M10 so we got: 

 

10 x M10 x 40mm bolts

10 x nyloc nuts

10 x M10 washers for the nuts

10 x M10 ID, 40mm OD washers for the spreader plates

 

 

20160529_145009_HDR by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Drilled the holes

 

20160529_154134 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

And fed the nuts through. These absolutely have to be with the thread coming through the car

 

20160529_154137 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

20160529_163745 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

I made some spreader plates out of 2.5mm thick steel. Matty marked them and I drilled and cut the plates out with the grinder

 

20160529_163753 by dann2707, on Flickr

[Dann2707]

Ignore the loose threaded bar in the background, thats for my subframes that I had to loosen earlier.

 

20160529_163756 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Then sealed them with silicone

 

20160529_165402 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160529_165405 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

My fingers looked tasty

 

 

20160529_165455 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

We then fitted the seats back in

 

20160529_165410 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160529_165419 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

 

After removing my runners to make them fixed the seats were consequently lower so I got some aluminium 10mm thick plates made up to raise me so I fitted them inbetween the subframe and the seat side mounts

 

20160529_180538 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Then fitted the cage back in

 

The harnesses were then looped around the cage and all secured and shortened to my preference 

 

20160529_194452 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Cable tied up of course for neatness.

 

20160529_194506_HDR by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160529_202718 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160529_202726_HDR by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160529_202742 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160529_202748 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

20160529_202748 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

 

Then today I cleaned Boris and Abi rinsed. My headlight condensation has come back so ill be fixing that asap.

 

20160530_131318 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160530_131325 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160530_131341 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

I love how you can see the cage from the outside

 

20160530_131350 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160530_132043 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160530_132051 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160530_132102-1 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160530_132127 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160530_132149_HDR-1-1 by dann2707, on Flickr

[Dann2707]

random underground pics

 

20160530_173524 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160530_173538 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160530_173549 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160530_173603 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Got my car tracked by BRAM racing, thoroughly recommend them as always.

 

Went for -2neg camber up front with 15 mins out.

 

Also the rear doesn't look great, wonder if that's due to the arb?

 

20160530_225422 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Abi made me a miniature Boris as my birthday present, she got hold of a model from France, she could only get it in black so got some arctic blue paint made up and painted it.

 

She's even fitted the rollcage in the back with cotton buds and the front splitter with painted blue tac. And the bumper ties and RSA harnesses, even painted the rear lights as she knew I changed them to ph1 lights

 

20160527_094535 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160527_094547 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160527_093609 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160527_094605 by dann2707, on Flickr

[Wardy]

Great work. Cage looks epic  :clap: 

[JoshH]

Cage looks good Dan but a couple of points you may/may not know. The spreader plate bolts supplied with my safety devices cage were all 10.8 high tensile cap heads so may be worth noting or they're a bit over the top I don't know, also your spreader plates for the main hoop should ideally be 120 square cm and made from 3mm steel.

Love the car man

[Dann2707]

Cage looks good Dan but a couple of points you may/may not know. The spreader plate bolts supplied with my safety devices cage were all 10.8 high tensile cap heads so may be worth noting or they're a bit over the top I don't know, also your spreader plates for the main hoop should ideally be 120 square cm and made from 3mm steel.

Love the car man

 

Thanks a lot for that mate, I will look into getting those changed. Appreciate it.

 

 

I thought I might aswell show what i'm doing with the gearstick part 2 as i'm ill and can't lay in bed doing absolutely nothing so this relaxes me.

 

I want to extend the gearstick length even more as I want it closer to the steering wheel further more. The current one I have is from a Renault Scenic which is extended already.

 

The best way to look at the gearstick is that it's made up of two pieces;

 

1) The inner rod - this connects to the pivot inside the housing and the bottom pivot bush to the gear linkage

2) The outer shaft - this is for the lift up reverse as it's attached to a collar that lifts up and allows you to get into reverse by lifting over a plastic junction.

 

This is mine. The outer bit is plastic and has way too many ridges and doesn't look great. I'm also really not a fan of how you can see the inner rod (the bit inbetween the outer shaft and the gearknob) so I will be dealing with this later.

 

20160601_141135 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

First of all i'm going to extend the inner rod. I'll do this by drilling the original inner rod from the top down and then tap an M5 thread in it. I'll then screw an M5 flat ended grub screw into that by 15mm, with loctite.

 

I've ordered some 12mm rod which I will also cut down (dependant on how much I want to extend it by) and also tap that to M5. This rod will then screw onto my inner shaft extending it. Done. Did a little pic to explain what I mean.

 

20160601_141220 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

This pic shows where I need to think of an idea on how to attach the lift up reverse collar at the bottom right with the cable attached to it, to my rod that I have. The OD of the plastic will fit in my ID of my rod, so maybe epoxy resin, but I don't like the idea of that I really want something more secure.

 

20160601_140917 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

 

Now coming back to how the inner shaft is visible. You obviously cannot push the gearknob further down as the lift up reverse needs to... lift up and it will collide with the gearknob.

 

20160601_140820 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

So my plan is to have the rod inside the gearstick like this...

 

20160601_141015 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

I will drill out the bottom of the gearstick to 17mm (the metal tube i'm using is 16mm) so it will fit nicely inside.

 

However I need to know much as I don't just want to drill and drill as obviously the gearknob needs to grip onto the shaft. This is determined by this length here, getting the verniers right in.

 

20160601_142233 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160601_142237 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

17mm.

 

And a little trick if you want to know the distance of two holes from each other.

 

Measure the diameter of the hole as shown here

 

20160601_142302 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

5mm

 

And take away that diameter from the distance. 17-5 = 12mm of travel.

 

Just to clarify that I looked at the top and you can see where it has scraped and measured that.

 

 

20160601_142345 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

So going back to this image, I now know I need to bore out 12mm of material from the gearknob for the travel of the lift up reverse to work if I want the outer shaft to be located inside my gearstick.

 

20160601_141015 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

 

I then needed something to grab on the shaft for the lift up reverse for the drivers hand side of things, so got a 17mm shaft collar. 17mm ID, 28mm OD so plenty to grab hold of.

 

 

 

 

But yeah, I just need to somehow attach these parts together if anyone has any ideas?

 

26787711004_5675c07e01_o by dann2707, on Flickr

[Dann2707]

Absolutely ****ed off to the ****ing max. Come back from a weekend away to find this.

 

 

20160605_201952 by dann2707, on Flickr

20160605_202516 by dann2707, on Flickr

20160605_202527 by dann2707, on Flickr

20160605_201819 by dann2707, on Flickr

20160605_201828 by dann2707, on Flickr

[faboka vrs]

That's ****

[Toxicvrs]

Mother ****ers :(.

[Adam_]

[Wardy]

What the hell has happened there?? 

 

Something struck it as it went passed? Or intentional 'criminal damage' ?

[Dann2707]

I believe it was from a low trailer thats caught it. All is well though. 

 

I didn't mess around and picked up from team dynamics cheap, along with a rear beam and whilst that was off I bought some black series polybushes - everything is polybushes black series now.

 

 

So today has been productive as balls and i'm now finally sitting down and relaxing.

 

I have: 

 

Finished my gearstick pretty much

Removed stub axles from rear beam

Removed the old bushes

Fitted new powerflex black series bushes

Wire brushed the beam

Painted the rear beam

Painted the stub axles

 

So, the gearstick!

 

I needed to lengthen the lift up reverse cable so I'm using an adapter that uses a grub screw to hold two cables in, like so!

 

20160617_164406 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

Which feeds through the gearstick to the top:

 

20160617_164411 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Then I'm using a screw with a nut to clamp the cable, probably going to put some washers on that a later date as at the moment it's purely just the nut. Sturdy as though

 

20160617_165226 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

 

I had a change in direction with the angled extension tube for the linkage side of things. Decided to just use a straight bar instead and bend the gearstick at the top end.

 

20160617_173849 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

One extended linkage!

 

20160617_173940 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

I then bent the rod a fair bit. You can see the difference here compared to the last pic

 

 

20160617_180227 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

 

The cable was then trimmed down

 

 

20160617_181706 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

 

And attached to my outer shaft giggity.

 

 

20160617_181709 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

 

Rubber cowling attached

 

20160617_181835 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

And finished. I'm just waiting on my shaft collar for the lift up reverse now. Then will spray it all black.

 

 

20160617_183212 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Really happy with it now, think it looks pretty good to say it costed around £15-£20 overall. Just time and thinking energy that took the most resource I guess.

 

 

Here is the lift up reverse in action too.

 

 

 

Now on with the rear beam

 

This is how I started

 

20160617_203236 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

Got the old bushes out. I drilled holes in the rubber bush, smashed out the metal insert, then hack sawed a line down the outershell then hit that out with a hammer.

 

20160617_214339 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160617_215154 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

The new outer shells went in ridiculously easy as I put them in the freezer for a few hours, simply slid in and required a little tap from the hammer

 

20160617_215920 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

I then painted the rear beam and stub axles. Much better than what they were like before!

 

20160617_224517 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160617_224535 by dann2707, on Flickr

[stevobeavo]

Fantastic build mate.

This has to be one of the best 182's I've seen.

[Dann2707]

Cheers dude!

 

So today me and Louis tackled the rear beam. All went really well, bolts removed nicely.

 

If I can give any advice, if people are removing the rear beam or fitting rear beam bushes - LOWER THE FUEL TANK. 

 

The fuel tank is held on by 4 13mm bolts that come off so easy and the fuel tank simply lowers allowing you to get the rear beam bolt out. So much easier.

 

Anyway, we cracked on removing the old beam

 

20160618_112936 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

And it's out. Really simply, disconnect a few brake lines, xenon sensor etc

 

20160618_121531 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Empty

 

 

20160618_121539 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Side by side

 

20160618_124153 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

We then had a romantic stub axle fitting dinner date

 

20160618_132339 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

Ready to go in

 

 

20160618_132946 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Used the jack to my advantage, raising the rear beam

 

 

20160618_134035 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

This is how I clamped my brake lines. Worked a treat as I saw the other day someone did the same swap and left air into their master cylinder - UH OHHHHHHH

 

20160618_140033 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

20160618_161253 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

New beam in, whiteline connected, new updated ARB bushes fitted also. From a suzuki swift 88 believe it or not

 

 

20160618_161307 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

20160618_161311 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

20160618_161326_HDR by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Now its all on but will get to the "problem" later on this post.

 

We then had enough time to fit the gearstick. Genuinely can't believe how it worked perfectly first time. Simply bolted in and every gear selects, reverse selects well too. Excuse the dirty car. My only gripe is that it's not angled enough towards me I don't think - as much as I'd like anyway. So I might remove it after a bit and bend it more. See how I get on. 

 

 

 

20160618_184907 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160618_184939 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

20160618_201014 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160618_201314 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Quick vid showing it.

 

 

 

 

Now the problem. The right wheel sticks out a bit more than the left! It's only by about 1mm but we both noticed it. Quite annoying.

 

Swapped the wheels over and its still there so its not the wheels. Used the same stub axles as the one that was provided with the new beam. Stub axle spacers the same. The rear beam lined up perfectly with the carrier holes so don't think that's bent.

 

The ONLY thing that is different from left to right is I used the new beams disc on the right. And my old one on the left. Would a mismatched disc really have that different tolerances? Pics below. Hard to get pics of it.

 

 

20160618_201352 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160618_201343 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160618_201413 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160618_201404 by dann2707, on Flickr

[Dann2707]

Busy busy tonight and it's finally there. I wasn't fully happy with the angle and I could have lived with it but as you know it's me and it's gotta be right or I get annoyed.

 

So I took it off and bent it some more.

 

20160620_201745 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

This is it now in neutral 

 

20160620_205436 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

First

 

20160620_205442 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

And fourth

 

 

20160620_205450 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

I haven't been for a blast yet but after sitting in and changing gear it feels so much better. Can't wait to test it on track!

[Dann2707]

This weekend I was back at my parents house for my Sisters birthday bbq party.

 

It mainly consisted of preparing for Blyton park next week.

 

On saturday morning I had my alignment. They knew all about the crash and spotted this on the rear carrier to the beam. If you look closely at the right of the bracket you can see how it's shiny and clean as it's slide during the impact. We loosened the carrier bolts and slid it back into place

 

20160625_131128 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

Random pic of the car coming out.

 

20160625_142825 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

Then today I have removed the front pads and ground the tabs down a bit as they were absolutely stud solid in the carriers before. Now they move freely which is good.

 

Also i've raised my seat and moved it forward by using some aluminium plate. It feels so much better to drive now as i'm not reaching UP for the steering wheel. My head is also level and im not tilting my head back to see over the dash lol. This is all because I removed my runners and they are around 30mm in itself. 

 

Then took some random pics on the way home. I realllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllly need to clean it on the inside and out before Blyton.

 

20160626_204534 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160626_204950 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160626_204956 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160626_205023 by dann2707, on Flickr

[Dann2707]

Did a little something tonight, just for a finishing touch really. My harness toggle pull things were fading badly. It's so hard to capture it.

 

20160629_190116_HDR by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160629_190122 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

And now they look like this. Again it's hard to capture it but in the background you can see how it actually looks. it's luminous yellow! WOOOOO. Also was only £5 for three from the range.

 

20160629_190134_HDR by dann2707, on Flickr

[Mikek3111]

In case I missed something (I enjoy reading loads of the threads here so sometimes loose track) is there a main reason as to the amount of work on the gearstick. I understand short shift etc but appears you've not done this and completely redesigned location and throw angles. Injury reasons?

[Dann2707]

In case I missed something (I enjoy reading loads of the threads here so sometimes loose track) is there a main reason as to the amount of work on the gearstick. I understand short shift etc but appears you've not done this and completely redesigned location and throw angles. Injury reasons?

 

Haha no worries buddy! 

 

Yeah I have made it a short shifter (not as in making the gearstick shorter but by reducing the throw) 

 

I made it a short shifter by lengthening the rod below the pivot point, that's the bit that's nut and bolted on the above pics.

 

I've made it longer because when i'm strapped in to my seats with the harnesses I can't move and before I reallllly had to reach to change gear. Now it's basically in the palms of my hands, feels so much better. I'll have lots of vids  from this weekend as its the cliosport festival weekend with a trackday included.

 

Thanks for the comment dude.

[Mikek3111]

Haha no worries buddy! 

 

Yeah I have made it a short shifter (not as in making the gearstick shorter but by reducing the throw) 

 

I made it a short shifter by lengthening the rod below the pivot point, that's the bit that's nut and bolted on the above pics.

 

I've made it longer because when i'm strapped in to my seats with the harnesses I can't move and before I reallllly had to reach to change gear. Now it's basically in the palms of my hands, feels so much better. I'll have lots of vids  from this weekend as its the cliosport festival weekend with a trackday included.

 

Thanks for the comment dude.

Ahh ok. Makes sense. I did something similar to my mums car as she had an accident at work which tore the tendons and ligaments from her left shoulder. When they reattached them she had limited lateral movement in her left arm so I modified the gear lever to a shorter throw to minimise that movement. She has since stopped driving but wasn't sure if yours was for similar reasons.

[Dann2707]

Well today I bit the bullet. It was already half getting there so decided to just go for it.

 

It's mad how much this weighs and adds up!

 

20160710_134952 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160710_141922 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

I will be de-tarring when I get my heatgun from home

 

20160710_141937 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

 

20160710_144102 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160710_144115_HDR by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160710_144223_HDR by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160710_153353 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

20160710_153416 by dann2707, on Flickr

 

 

I was always going to do it I guess and if i'm going the full weight weenie it will be hilarious with 260bhp!

 

Plans are to tidy the wiring looms too, remove unnecessary wires. I want it all hidden so you just see bare metal.

 

this **** is getting real!