Alex's red Mk1 Fabia vRS BMN/BLT 16v hybrid - GTBvklr

[alex_e3]

It's pretty sexy to be fair isn't it! Would it turn you on even more if i shouted 'HEEEYY YOOOUUUU GUUUUYYYS' in your direction!?!

Thanks mate. Will be a while before I have an indication whether it's worked or not yet.

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[Titanium_Man]

Ah you'll be alright.... I've had my chest sawn open (twice) and get people staring at me when I'm on holiday. You get used to it :p

[iiPaul]

Gutting news Alex! After all the time and effort you put in and you were on schedule to finish too!

Glad the op went okay! Hopefully you'll be back at it in no time!

[alex_e3]

Cheers guys!

 

I'll definitely be back on it as soon as I can. Currently looking like I've gone 12 rounds with Tyson! Proper doing my head in, as I have to lie on my left side 24/7 for a whole week... soooo bored! Plus have a load of gas in my eye so can't see out of it yet...

 

Currently thinking of my next plans for a new custom FMIC single pass setup that sits at the front of the bumper. That way there should be space to mount my oil cooler at the top behind the front grille and also will have the cooler part of the BKD head conversion already in place

[alex_e3]

So.... had the all clear from the docs this morning

 

Can't do any heavy lifting for a couple of weeks, but I'll be very slowly cracking on with the car this weekend. Can't bloody wait to get stuck in with it!!

 

I've booked a track day at Oulton Park in late November, so I'm chuffed I'm still going to get on-track with it

 

 

Updates to follow on the weekend (small ones no doubt!).

[pip_vrs]

Good to hear mate [emoji108]

Now crack on with the good work [emoji23]

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[alex_e3]

So I finally managed to get down to my unit to do some light work on the car today. Really pleased to have actually got something done at last! Spent 3 hours down there, and just took my time with a few small jobs.

 

 

First up, I wanted to re-do my oil return line. I was never completely happy with the original return that I made up due to chopping the top part just a little shorter than I'd like. So I figured now was a good time to get it done properly. I managed to get hold of a second hand oil return line. First up I popped it in the vice and pulled the top section off with some mole grips. I then measured up and cut the original top section down...

 

 

I filed the end smooth and de-burred it. I took the rest of the original line apart. For those that need to do this oil return for a 2260 on cast manifold, here's how both ends need cutting down...

 

 

I popped a new gasket on the top section and fitted the top section properly and the bottom part loosely...

 

 

Rubber pipe put in place. It's kink free thanks to chopping down the ends and taking the bend out. I also re-fitted the turbo support bracket that I'd made previously...

 

 

 

Next up the oil feed line was cleaned up. New copper washers were used at both ends. The end at the oil housing was left loose for now just incase...

 

 

 

I cable tied the oil feed line nicely to keep things nice and tidy...

 

 

 

Next I put my blanking screw and below that my EGT gauge adaptor into their respective holes. Both in with medium thread lock - probably overkill as it was a taper thread anyway. Quite handy to have the spare should I need it...

 

 

 

Since I put my 2260 on, I had to buy a blue reducer for the TIP due to needing it and that's all they had in stock. So I've bought a replacement in red. I put the original Jubilee clip on as a guide to trim the hose down on both ends with a blade...

 

 

Hose on...

 

 

 

Last job was the clean the inlet manifold out properly after it being powdercoated. I'd previously let it soak with oven cleaner, but due to what happened with my eye I had to leave it. So I washed it through with a hose when I got down the unit, then blocked it off again and put more oven cleaner in. Left for a couple of hours and then spent about 15 minutes rinsing it out with a hose to get all the crap out. Looks much cleaner inside now. Will check it out for cleanliness tomorrow once it's dry...

 

 

 

That's it for the night. Nice to get a few things done. Will have an easy day on it tomorrow as well, but hope to get some more important jobs done

Edited 29 October, 2017 by alex_e3

[bagnall007]

Good to see it progressing again, think I'll need to do that oil return mod myself after fitting the Ferriday thermal spacer it's now a little kinked!

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[alex_e3]

Couple of hours spent down the unit yesterday evening. Few more little jobs done.

 

Cleaned up all the old bolts then re-fitted the painted air con pump and alternator. Along with cleaning up the tensioner and re-fitting with a new aux belt...

 

 

 

I fitted my new adaptor from Darkside from the oil cooler group buy...

 

 

Oiled the seals slightly, then fitted the oil cooler thermostatic plate and standard cooler...

 

 

 

Also fitted both sections of the driver's side engine mount. Cleaned all the bolts up and thread locked to help avoid corrosion.

 

 

This weekend I plan on getting a fair old bit done. Just taking my time with things at the minute bearing in mind I don't want to take any risks with my eye.

Edited 29 October, 2017 by alex_e3

[DanGum]

Glad you've recovered mate and got back into the unit busy on again

[alex_e3]

Thanks Dan! Appreciate it  Really nice to be back to it slowly. You don't realise what you take for granted every day until you're at risk of losing it...

[Dark_Hero]

Great to see you back on it Alex

[Skoda_Saint]

Good to see you're better now Alex and that you're back working on your car! Great work as usual, you just have so much to do to mine.

[alex_e3]

Spent 4 hours on the car today.

 

 

First off, I'd already fitted my Superpro ARB bushes to the car, but when I came to torque them up the bolts let go. Upon trying to remove them, one of them snapped. The other side I have one stuck in that I had to drill out...

 

 

I'd recently bought some new brackets for the bushes from Skoda, but annoyingly they didn't stock the bolts anymore, so had to get those from an independent fastener supplier. All back on, greased up, thread locked and tightened to spec...

 

 

I was finally able to get the other end of my new drop links bolted up too...

 

 

 

Next up... wishbones! Since I'm no longer in a rush to finish the car, I figured I might as well replace the old rusty wishbones on the car. Popped them off - right state...

 

 

Nice new Lemforder items with new front bushes (rears are Superpro anti-lift). Was going to transfer my front Superpro ones, but they've done about 30k miles now, and I genuinely doubt the need for uprated bushes on the front ones...

 

 

Fitted the wishbones and once again tightened up and thread locked. They look so much better...

 

 

 

 

Next up I fitted my freshly powdercoated back panel. My old one had a rip in the carpet, so I thought I would go down this route instead. Before they were done I ground down the threads that were sticking out to attach the carpet. Looks really nice fitted...

 

 

 

I then cable tied several bits and bobs to the side to make the engine fitting as straight forward as possible...

 

 

 

Cleaned up the box mount from my old gearbox and fitted that...

 

 

Nice shiny powdercoated mount on the other side...

 

 

 

I then took out the sump plug and replaced it with one with a 1/8" NPT hole in for my oil temperature sender. Copper washer and 30Nm later...

 

 

I wasn't completely happy with how tight the oil temperature sender fitted, so I wrapped it with a few layers of PTFE tape to give it a better seal...

 

 

Temp sender fitted...

 

 

 

Here's how she now stands for the evening...

 

 

 

Tomorrow I will FINALLY be dropping the engine back on its mounts  I'm quite excited (sad I know!). Still LOTS to do, but at least it's a big leap forward as such

Edited 29 October, 2017 by alex_e3

[faboka vrs]

My dealer supplied the bolts when I replaced my anti roll bar bushes. That was about 6 months ago I think.

Great update. Wishbones look so much better

[J306TD]

Glad to see your back to it Alex. How long till it runs again?

Sent from my Galaxy S5

[coskev]

My dealer supplied the bolts when I replaced my anti roll bar bushes. That was about 6 months ago I think.

Great update. Wishbones look so much better

Came up as no longer available on the Skoda parts system now :(

[alex_e3]

As Kev said John, apparently not available any more. Must've just missed the cut off. Or the dealer was looking at the wrong part - which I wouldn't be surprised with that place...

 

There's a benefit to the standard bolt too, as they have the tapered guide on the end. So they're easier to fit. I nearly ruined the thread on the ones I fitted tonight because the space was tight.

 

 

 

Glad to see your back to it Alex. How long till it runs again?

Sent from my Galaxy S5

 

Not too sure on time periods yet. Will see how it goes tomorrow and then it's how much I can get down there to work on it.

 

Probably a couple more weeks I reckon. Then I have to get it MOT'd and the alignment done too. Should get air conditioning re-filled too - always handy for de-humidifying in the winter. MOT shouldn't be a problem.... it's virtually a new car ha ha!

[alex_e3]

Fairly good update for today

 

 

First off, got the engine on its mounts at last!...

 

 

 

A big thanks to Kev (coskev) for popping over and giving me a hand to line it up with the crane. Definitely easier with 2!

 

All mounts tightened to spec and thread locked to help stop dissimilar metal corrosion.

 

 

First thing I then needed to make sure of was to connect the clutch line and bleed the clutch pedal up. I learnt the hard way in the past when I fitted a new concentric release cylinder to a Corsa C - built the car back up completely, came to bleed the clutch to find fluid leaving the bellhousing at an alarming rate! Luckily no such problems here - clutch all bled up with Kev's help

 

 

Kev on his travels, first task was to tighten the head bolts through their last 90 degree stage. As I wasn't able to hold the engine in place on the floor to do it.

 

 

Next up, gearbox oil was filled from scratch. 2.1 litres of this stuff was used (the extra 0.1 litres to accomodate for the fact that it's completely dry in there)...

 

 

 

Next up I removed the brackets for lifting the engine and for the engine cover, as they're unsightly. Plus I'm using the front right one to make a bracket out of for my catch can. I will keep them safe for next time I need to lift the engine out!...

 

 

 

Next up, injectors were cleaned up, all seals removed, then new seals all round...

 

 

 

Injection nozzles and clamps then in place...

 

 

I had to leave the end 2 bolts and the rockers due to running out of locking compound. Will pick up some more tomorrow.

 

 

I then cleaned up the gear change brackets, masked off accordingly, then sprayed them with high temp paint to match the box...

 

 

I flipped them to do the other side later in the day.

 

 

I now drilled 2 extra holes into the driver's side of the engine bay...

 

 

For these to go into...

 

 

 

My HID boxes were never secure for long with double sided tape in the past, so I wanted a more secure and neater solution. Look quite good and are easily removable too...

 

 

 

Fuel filter housing cleaning up and fitted along with new fuel filter. HID box fits spot on behind...

 

 

I then cut to size some new fuel hoses (not silicone!). Fitted them along with shiny new clips...

 

 

Coolant tank cleaned up and fitted. New red hose cut to size with new clips...

 

 

 

I then moved onto the Draft 42 oil pressure sender relocation kit. First off I PTFE taped the extension hose and fitted it in place...

 

 

With that in place I cut a new hose to size and fitted...

 

 

This is the junction box that goes on the other end. One sender is the original oil pressure warning switch. The other is the sender for my new oil pressure gauge...

 

 

I then routed the hose underneath the head behind the oil filter housing and attached the junction box. It still needs an earth on, as I'm currently trialling it to see where is neatest to fit it. I'll wait until I've got some more bits on before deciding, although I'm liking this location...

 

 

 

That's about as far as I got today! Had a good day down there. Little bits taking up lots of time - such as removing the original hoses from the fuel line clips! Fitted some other little bits and clips here and there too, but not worth taking yet more pictures for these!!

 

Hopefully I'll get down there tomorrow and get the rest of the head together. I then want to set the injector lash.

Edited 3 November, 2017 by alex_e3

[alex_e3]

Only got to spend 1 1/2 hours down the unit tonight, but done a couple of jobs.

 

First off, bolted down the remaining 2 injectors. Then cleaned up the rockers and all the bolts...

 

 

 

I then went about setting the lash for the injectors. I thought this job was going to be a pain, i.e. to figure out when the rocker was at its highest point. Hence I brought a DTI with me...

 

 

Surprisingly, you don't actually need a DTI to do this job at all! As the individual rockers actually stay at their highest point for quite a few degrees of engine rotation. So tightened the adjustment screw up and then backed off 225 degrees as per the Haynes manual. They were actually all spot on anyway it seemed. Sounds about right, as I didn't have any noticeable tappet wear on inspection.

 

 

Finally I covered my rocker cover in degreaser, agitated it and blasted it with the pressure washer!...

 

 

I'm also still digging powder out of my coated inlet manifold. Gonna have to buy yet more over cleaner. Really not impressed that they didn't cover the holes up, even though they were categorically asked to   

 

 

Further progress is unlikely until the weekend due to work and university work being due in. Weekend can't come soon enough!!

Edited 3 November, 2017 by alex_e3

[Titanium_Man]

Awesome stuff, as usual

[Richard92]

So glad I turned on updates for this build. Going to be a weapon. Looking great and going to go very well!

Glad to see your back at it

[silky16v]

 

225 degrees as per the Haynes manual

 

This has been revised to 180deg for all PD engines

[coskev]

This has been revised to 180deg for all PD engines

What does this setting affect/actually do?

[silky16v]

How far the internal pludger travels when it's at TDC

Incorrectly set you can lead to poorer spray pattern, and lower tip pressure, which can cause burned piston bowls

Lots of other factors like durations and timing can affect this also

You can always check the injector timings in group 13 the closer together the figures is ideal, setting the pludgers affects these figures