I'm back with a bang!

 

And would apreciate anyones help on how to squeeze out a little oomph from this car as I came 5th in this month's rally sprint event and the car had issues from the start

I went in for fun before the repairs but now it got serious. :coffee:

Engine is the 1.4 mpi 8v running on full synthetic oil.

Even with blown but operational head gasket (oil enters my coolant and gunk builds up on the coolant tank so it's obvious that the head gasket needs replacement, luckily it's not the other way around. The funny part is that I don't have the notorious yellow gunk in the engine from condesation, that's clean lol), other faults = dusty air filter and loose chain (and the bumper was missing because I've managed to kiss the back side of a taxi after a noob knob in an audi cut me off)

(I know I'm mad to enter with a stock 50kw car which weights over 1T in evenets like these)

but this little bugger would do great with a little more oomph/boost when coming out of corners.

 

Plus I was also thinking about stiffening the springs with some cheap hardened rubber blockers on the front and placing some wider and lower profile tires as it felt like ice skateing with the stock michellin energy savers on.

I'm interested in extremely small modification which would help me gain some seconds in rally sprint events (small and consecutive laps with tight corners and better sprint afterwards)

 

P.S. will I have any issues with the sensors after removing the catalizator? and other junk placed there by tree huggers to reduce emissions?

 

:peek:

There's nothing much you can do for performance other than to repair the engine properly, lighten the whole car and make it more reliable.

 

I suggest you concentrate on improving the cornering by lowering, polybushing and stiffening the suspension and fitting lightweight 15" wheels (steelies are fine and cheap too) with 195/50/15 tyres. 15's will be better than 16's for your application and the tyres are much cheaper which means you can fit much better quality tyres.

 

Change all the brake fluid and fit harder pads at the front.

 

Drive it like you stole it!

Are you in a 1401> 1600 series?

At the moment I'm on 14' alloys and weiner balloon tyres as I like to call them lol

Second Class 1400 cc

Second Class 1400 cc

Strip the interior out totally it weighs about 170 KG Iirc at least

At the moment I'm on 14' alloys and weiner balloon tyres as I like to call them lol

Also get some 15" alloys and R888 tyres with improved brake pads and ATE super blue!

Strip the interior out totally it weighs about 170 KG Iirc at least

Jesus, what on earth is that heavy there? P.S. I can't remove glass or metal elements and seatbelts other than the non used seats and some plastic pannels, only visible things that can be taken off are the front and rear bumpers at the race (Second class was till 1400 cc then 3rd class from 1600cc and so forth, 1st class were the young ones under 18 years of age the future rally drivers in cars set up for hill climbs and all)

Jesus, what on earth is that heavy there? P.S. I can't remove glass or metal elements and seatbelts other than the non used seats and some plastic pannels, only visible things that can be taken off are the front and rear bumpers at the race (Second class was till 1400 cc then 3rd class from 1600cc and so forth, 1st class were the young ones under 18 years of age the future rally drivers in cars set up for hill climbs and all)

The dash board and heater were by far the heaviest that I took off and then I screwed the dials to the crash bar! Look somewhere in the project thread link which is in my signature below

Also get some 15" alloys and R888 tyres with improved brake pads and ATE super blue!

But wouldn't the smaller diameter have an advantage when it comes to sprint faster from a stand still? I'm not interested in top speed, the track is small with sharp corners. Also the brakes are ok, ventilated front disks and FERODO pads something better would lock up the front even more than it does now as I don't have ABS.

Edited 31 August, 201411 yr by BMF

But wouldn't the smaller diameter have an advantage when it comes to sprint faster from a stand still? I'm not interested in top speed, the track is small with sharp corners. Also the brakes are ok, ventilated front disks and FERODO pads something better would lock up the front even more than it does now as I don't have ABS.

The larger wheel will give you a lot better choice of tyre compound for better grip etc

The larger wheel will give you a lot better choice of tyre compound for better grip etc

hmm there were a ford puma and a ford fiesta in my class on 14'' which had racing tyers on, I guess they are just a bit harder to find

hmm there were a ford puma and a ford fiesta in my class on 14'' which had racing tyers on, I guess they are just a bit harder to find

Yeah! Many things can be done to the Fabia it's just a matter of regs and how far to go with it

Well I have time until October to prepare so I guess I'll stay on 14'' wheels but with much wider and lower profile tyres.

The air filter will be replaced with a sock.

Springs will be compressed to stiffen them up

Head gasket will be replaced with a better quality one and while at it clean the remaining junk from the block and rest of the internal engine parts.

I guess the spark plugs will also need to be checked as last time I replaced them in 2008...

Changing the drive chain.

Then I'll see if I can get a better time, but doooh 98% of the cars are rally cars there in 2nd class (group A) mine is the least powerfull and the heaviest

Edited 31 August, 201411 yr by BMF

 

The air filter will be replaced with a sock.

 

The OEM one doesn't let enough air flow in so that will be removed but I will also need some sort of protection from dust and rubber dust and fragments so I figured a womans panty hose (aka sock) will do the trick. And hey it's rally not a tunning show, we have to use what we have to gain some seconds

If I will not be able to make it unde 3 secons this time I'll downgrade to a Felicia with the 1.3 engine and same power output and spend the remaining money on preparing the car for similar races. I don't know why but I just love the simplicity and reliability of these engines, even if I could buy a peugeot 206 from the money I'll still stay with skoda

If I will not be able to make it unde 3 secons this time I'll downgrade to a Felicia with the 1.3 engine and same power output and spend the remaining money on preparing the car for similar races. I don't know why but I just love the simplicity and reliability of these engines, even if I could buy a peugeot 206 from the money I'll still stay with skoda

Oops 3 minutes instead of seconds, got it mixed up there without me morning coffee...

The OEM one doesn't let enough air flow in so that will be removed but I will also need some sort of protection from dust and rubber dust and fragments so I figured a womans panty hose (aka sock) will do the trick. And hey it's rally not a tunning show, we have to use what we have to gain some seconds

 

As long as it works I suppose

Here's what I compete against lol

 

My time was the worst in the 1400 cc class with the car stock and engine issues.

 

I'm also considering fitting a proper compressor made from an old turbocharger and electric motor powerful enough to spin the blades properly making anough PSI to meet the marked compression on it and to compress cold air into the engine...

(that would be easier to fit and take off than converting everything to a tubocharged engine and I wouldn't have to care about rev ranges).

Edited 2 September, 201411 yr by BMF

Here's what I compete against lol

 

My time was the worst in the 1400 cc class with the car stock and engine issues.

 

I'm also considering fitting a proper compressor made from an old turbocharger and electric motor powerful enough to spin the blades properly making anough PSI to meet the marked compression on it and to compress cold air into the engine...

(that would be easier to fit and take off than converting everything to a tubocharged engine and I wouldn't have to care about rev ranges).

 

You won't be able to 'make' one, you need close to 100,000 RPM to get any meaningful boost from a turbine which means a massive electric motor which will drain the battery in seconds.

You won't be able to 'make' one, you need close to 100,000 RPM to get any meaningful boost from a turbine which means a massive electric motor which will drain the battery in seconds.

 

Actually the electric motors fitted on the medium sized remote controled choppers work at pretty high rpms and are not that big so it might be possible to make something that would work (in theory)

Actually the electric motors fitted on the medium sized remote controled choppers work at pretty high rpms and are not that big so it might be possible to make something that would work (in theory)

 

Naturally aspirated you engine consumes 35 litres of air per second at 3000 rpm, to provide even 1 bar of positive boost at that speed you're going to need to shift 70 litres of air per second and compress it.

 

Think about a compressor which can provide that much air and how big the electric motor is.

 

Your plan won't work.

Your plan won't work.

 

What if he tows one of these around with him?

 

 

What if he tows one of these around with him?

I can borrow one from work