I can borrow one from work

 

Nice one

Does the ECU actually adjust for more air going in ? Sounds like it would need a map to get the best out of that

Does the ECU actually adjust for more air going in ? Sounds like it would need a map to get the best out of that

 

Yes, within reason the MAP would detect that and increase fuelling according to the schema and information from the wideband lambda probe, it would also retard the ignition when it sensed any knock, it would probably only handle a few PSI though before throwing its hands in the air.

Ok so back to basics with this car... we'll see ho has the last laugh

Ok so back to basics with this car... we'll see ho has the last laugh

 

Usually it's the car....

 

Would suggest the only way to get a 1.4 8v to perform is forced induction, so probably a supercharger or turbo. Or throttle bodies and a huge cam.

 

J.

If you want to 'fine tune' the 1.4mpi, just switch off the AC. You will notice a huge power boost.  It does the job for me.

Edited 11 September, 201411 yr by Alexandru

If you want to 'fine tune' the 1.4mpi, just switch off the AC. You will notice a huge power boost.  It does the job for me.

The car is "BALD" no AC and other comfort mumbo jumbos in it, so there's nothing to hold down power stock except the weight and the things placed in the exaust (for bogus emission regulations). Plus 100+ octane fuel also helps to sprint a little bit faster with less missfires on loose transmission chain (from what I have experimented so far). I'll have to check the engine and see what else is messed up except the headgasket as it kind of acts weird lately, doesn't have power cold, only after it heats it starts to go somwhat OK which I find strage.

Usually it's the car....

 

Would suggest the only way to get a 1.4 8v to perform is forced induction, so probably a supercharger or turbo. Or throttle bodies and a huge cam.

 

J.

Too many things and not too much $ to prepare that until october 11 as I will need to spend some money and time on bodywork as well... I guess I'll just fix the engine and run almost stock again but with better tires and push myself harder this time...

The car is "BALD" no AC and other comfort mumbo jumbos in it, so there's nothing to hold down power stock except the weight and the things placed in the exaust (for bogus emission regulations). Plus 100+ octane fuel also helps to sprint a little bit faster with less missfires on loose transmission chain (from what I have experimented so far). I'll have to check the engine and see what else is messed up except the headgasket as it kind of acts weird lately, doesn't have power cold, only after it heats it starts to go somwhat OK which I find strage.

 

Your ECT sensor needs replacing.

Your ECT sensor needs replacing.

Thanks man! I forgot about the sensor there... I'll try to take it off and test it with a multy meter and hot water to see if it's busted first or only oxidated. It's not a big deal as the car doesn't overheat even with oil leaking in the anti-freeze, just that it acts sluggish until it heats up. 

If you want to 'fine tune' the 1.4mpi, just switch off the AC. You will notice a huge power boost.  It does the job for me.

 

What if it doesn't have AC like mine?

What if it doesn't have AC like mine?

I've already wrote mine is "bald" so no AC, heated dingleberries, or beer freezer, I have none of those, not even electric windows. Don't even need none of those, I was not born with a silver spoon stuck up my bottom or maybe I'm used to old school cars (Fiat 600, Renault 12 - the crappier romanian versions and now this skoda).   

Edited 12 September, 201411 yr by BMF

Renault 12 - the crappier romanian versions

 

Ah the Dacia version of the Renault 12, known as the Dacia Denem here in the UK. A friend once had one. I remember being in it when he took it through the car wash and water poured in from every orifice.

 

 

Acceptable to who?

Ah the Dacia version of the Renault 12, known as the Dacia Denem here in the UK. A friend once had one. I remember being in it when he took it through the car wash and water poured in from every orifice.

 

 

Acceptable to who?

LOL actually the 1100 was not that bad with the engine of a 1.3 other than that it was acceptable to our roads, here take a look, and this is in the present not the past lol this is not the moon we are even triple taxed to drive on these superbly modulated WW2 road bombing replicas (1st at the pump, second under the form of "vignette" which is still in the price of the gas itself as officials didn't remove it from the gas tax, plus insurance which was doubled this year for drivers under 30 years of age regardless of experience, incidents, or car)

Edited 12 September, 201411 yr by BMF

I always wondered with the 1.4 MPI if the AC pump could be removed and a super charger fitted in its place

 

would put it right at the top of the engine bay, or jig things around and swap it with the Alternator which is fitted at the bottom (when AC is present)

Thanks man! I forgot about the sensor there... I'll try to take it off and test it with a multy meter and hot water to see if it's busted first or only oxidated. It's not a big deal as the car doesn't overheat even with oil leaking in the anti-freeze, just that it acts sluggish until it heats up. 

 

It doesn't work that way, the ECU expects an accurate resistance value at a particular temperature, what happens is the resistance drifts as the sensor ages, just replace it, they're cheap enough.

LOL actually the 1100 was not that bad with the engine of a 1.3 other than that it was acceptable to our roads, here take a look, and this is in the present not the past lol this is not the moon we are even triple taxed to drive on these superbly modulated WW2 road bombing replicas (1st at the pump, second under the form of "vignette" which is still in the price of the gas itself as officials didn't remove it from the gas tax, plus insurance which was doubled this year for drivers under 30 years of age regardless of experience, incidents, or car)

 

Some of our roads are not much better. lol

I always wondered with the 1.4 MPI if the AC pump could be removed and a super charger fitted in its place

 

would put it right at the top of the engine bay, or jig things around and swap it with the Alternator which is fitted at the bottom (when AC is present)

It can be done as I've seen someone around here turbocharged one, but it needs some custom exhaust manifold made, other injectors and all that plus remaping the ECU or overiding it... not to mention it would need better brakes as well lol so in theory supercharging it would be a bit easier as the injectors, exhaust and almost everything can stay stock (not sure how the ECU would handle the massive air intake without remaping)

Edited 13 September, 201411 yr by BMF

Ditched the idea of the sock for the air filter, bought a cheaper "sport" version which will need a little chopping that I'll try to connect directly without 90 degree angles and place it as close to the front grill as possible and remove the old box with the standard filter (which was so dusty that it needed replacement anyways). I will only need to figure out the placement of the hose to run it as straight as possible.

LOL actually the 1100 was not that bad with the engine of a 1.3 other than that it was acceptable to our roads, here take a look, and this is in the present not the past lol this is not the moon we are even triple taxed to drive on these superbly modulated WW2 road bombing replicas (1st at the pump, second under the form of "vignette" which is still in the price of the gas itself as officials didn't remove it from the gas tax, plus insurance which was doubled this year for drivers under 30 years of age regardless of experience, incidents, or car)

 

And they still wonder why there are so many on the streets with Bg plates...

One option... will probably blow it up though....

 

Cheap and small turbo, say a T2 or T25. Remove exhaust back box, stick turbo on there.

 - Lots of pipe under the car

 - Need a scavenge pump to pump oil through/back from the turbo.

 - Need to extend MAF wiring if running MAF, to locate MAF sensor and holder somewhere in the vicinity.

One option... will probably blow it up though....

 

Cheap and small turbo, say a T2 or T25. Remove exhaust back box, stick turbo on there.

 - Lots of pipe under the car

 - Need a scavenge pump to pump oil through/back from the turbo.

 - Need to extend MAF wiring if running MAF, to locate MAF sensor and holder somewhere in the vicinity.

That is not a bad idea at all, but will not have the time and money to make everything as I'll need some money saved for entry fees and gas (100+ octane) plus right after that there will be a gokarting championship... so I'll just run stock again with a different air filter better rubbers on front and push harder... If I can get my hands on a rusty old pipe that would fit I'd remove at least the back exhaust as well, so only minor changes will be made. Plus I also have to figure out what causes a delay in acceleration after left foot brakeing, has a slight delay after releasing the brake and hitting the gas while the RPM stays the same, if that's an electronical issue it will stay that way as long as my handbrake works...

I've considered the t25 option for myself, but it's a 3000 euro investment. The charger is about $900. Beside it, you need to build a custom inlet manifold, an intercooler, decat the car and remap the ecu. If you sell your bald fabia you get at least 2000euro on it. With 5000 euro, you can go for an 1.8t/2.ot, quatro audi a3 and the best part of this, is that it is street legal.

I've considered the t25 option for myself, but it's a 3000 euro investment. The charger is about $900. Beside it, you need to build a custom inlet manifold, an intercooler, decat the car and remap the ecu. If you sell your bald fabia you get at least 2000euro on it. With 5000 euro, you can go for an 1.8t/2.ot, quatro audi a3 and the best part of this, is that it is street legal.

Uhum to spend extra to have to deal with the lamest car electronics the VAG group has ever created, no thank you, I'll stick to my bald Skoda with the ATZ SKODA engine and make it a project car... however I wish the germans would have not touched the electronic bits on it.

Aaaargh, that stock ECU is driving me nuts, can it be remaped or something? it takes forever to pick up again after left foot brakeing. It's ok for city use but on events, it could cost 2 secons in each corner. The car is almost set for the event and by next year it will look something like this: engine specs will be secret lol the wing and bumper was attached but color did not match, yet. I will need to find some candy white to repaint those parts, plus the hood is still bended but it's not much work from now on the body, those bits will be fixed after the event

Edited 26 September, 201411 yr by BMF