Hi.

I have an issue with my 2011 Superb 2.0 TDI CR engine code CFGB.

The workshop changed the thermostat but the engine temperature is still very unstable.

When I'm driving on the mountain roads and the engine need to work a little, then the temperature is about 90 degrees Celsius. But as soon I'm driving on straight road it is between 50 and 70.

The oil temperature goes also up and down.

Is this normal?

Welcome to Briskoda :sun:

 

The temperature gauge on my 2011 2.0 TDi CR140  is rock solid at 90 degrees at all times once the engine is up to temperature. No movement.

 

The only time I have seen it move is when sat at tick over when the outside temeprature was around 10 degrees below freezing. The internal heater was demanding more heat than the engine was producing at idle which caused the gauge to drop below 90.

 

I see you are in Iceland, I'm guessing your ambient temperatures are very different to here in the UK!?

Welcome to Briskoda :sun:

The temperature gauge on my 2011 2.0 TDi CR140 is rock solid at 90 degrees at all times once the engine is up to temperature. No movement.

Same for my 2012 140 TDI in central Scotland where it's below freezing most winters.

Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk

What is your ambient temperature at the moment Viperfreak?

could be a faulty temperature sensor had this on my mk1 fabia vrs changed the sensor and it was fine apparantley they are common fault on the 1.9 pd engine but not heard any faults on the cr engine

Mine is the same as silver1011, warms up very quick, and rock solid at 90 degrees, almost dead centre..... My old Exeo on the other hand was terrible, more in the winter... I could drive 20 miles when it was cold outside and the gauge would go to about half way between cold and dead centre... It would, eventually go to 90 degrees, but you had to be in it a long time... Heater was always warm though... 

At the moment the temperature is between 10 and 15 degrees celcius.

There is a problem with the aircon. It's not producing enough pressure, but the shop is looking at that tomorrow. Could this have anything to say?

Mine is the same as silver1011, warms up very quick, and rock solid at 90 degrees, almost dead centre..... My old Exeo on the other hand was terrible, more in the winter... I could drive 20 miles when it was cold outside and the gauge would go to about half way between cold and dead centre... It would, eventually go to 90 degrees, but you had to be in it a long time... Heater was always warm though... 

 

Mine too is almost dead-centre...

Mine too....might take a while longer on a very cold morning but once it reaches 90 degrees, it doesn't move off that no matter what type of driving (unless I stop for a while it gets an opportunity to cool down).  Oil temperature behaves in a similar way but it can vary by a few degrees either way when the car is fully warmed up - no major movements though

It does sound like you need to pay another visit to the workshop.

The dashboard temperature gauges are normally quite dumbed down, and there to re-assure the driver that everything is "ok", whilst the actual temperature swings around.

Only if the engine is overheating or over cooling does the needle then go out to the extremes.

Sounds like bad news on this front. Had a similar symptom on SWMBO's Seat 140 TDI CR.

In the end it was linked to a gearbox issue on the Multitronic CVT and interlinked systems.

 

Gearbox was replaced under warranty and now 90oC steady always. Not saying this is your issue;

but symptoms very very similar indeed. I hope the workshop isolate the issue ASAP.

I still have 4 months of warrenty, so if the problem is still there when i get the car back from the aircon repair I'll have to talk to them again. I hope it's not a gearbox....

But can someone explain to me how the DSG gearbox is linked into the cooling system of the engine?

The shop just called. The cooler for the aircon is broken and will be changed.

Edited 3 September, 201411 yr by Viperfreak

But can someone explain to me how the DSG gearbox is linked into the cooling system of the engine?

 

DSG was not mentioned; Multi-tronic is the Audi name for the CVT auto gearbox. FYI - S-tronic is DSG.  

 

I didnt get a full report on the repair as it was a full warranty job.

Gearboxes were on back order as well..... 3 weeks all in. 

 

But for sure - the described symptom was observed in the lead-up to failure.

DSG was not mentioned; Multi-tronic is the Audi name for the CVT auto gearbox. FYI - S-tronic is DSG.  

 

I didnt get a full report on the repair as it was a full warranty job.

Gearboxes were on back order as well..... 3 weeks all in. 

 

But for sure - the described symptom was observed in the lead-up to failure.

Ah, my bad. I must have misread something.

Hi.

I have an issue with my 2011 Superb 2.0 TDI CR engine code CFGB.

The workshop changed the thermostat but the engine temperature is still very unstable.

When I'm driving on the mountain roads and the engine need to work a little, then the temperature is about 90 degrees Celsius. But as soon I'm driving on straight road it is between 50 and 70.

The oil temperature goes also up and down.

Is this normal?

 

Oil temperature depends on speed. It's around 90 at slow speeds and 108-110 at 160 km/h. But coolant temperature should be stable all the time if thermostat is working properly. Basic rule - when the car is stationary or moving in traffic jam temperature is around 90 but as soon as you start driving 90 km/h or so - temperature is falling to 70 or 50 - faulty thermostat.

Just picked it up from the shop after they changed the condenser for the aircon. Still a problem.

I have talked to the shop and they will take the car in again when I'm going on vacation in about a week. They are gona change some sensors and see if it works.

If they can't find the error they will ship the car to the main dealer and they will have a go at it.....

It is not uncommon that new termostat is not working properly. If I would be them - I would change it once again, just to be sure that its not faulty termostat in the first place. Or...maybe there is still air somewhere in the system? Is coolant level stable?

It is not uncommon that new termostat is not working properly. If I would be them - I would change it once again, just to be sure that its not faulty termostat in the first place. Or...maybe there is still air somewhere in the system? Is coolant level stable?

The cooling level is stable as far as I can see.

When I drove home today I noticed that it took roughly 20 min for both cooling and oil temperature to reach about 75 degree celcius (10 min in Reykjavik (50-80 km/t) and 10 min country (80-90 km/t))

After that it did not move until I overtook (no kick-down but up to 110 km/t) two cars. Both temperatures rose to about 80 degrees celcius and dropped back down again when I resumed my previous speed.

After another 15 min I drove down a mountain with 70 km/t. I put the gear lever in manual and used the gears/engine to maintain the speed. The oil temp dropped to 65 degree celcius and the cooling to 55 degree celcius.

After this I resumed 90 km/t and the temperatures rose again to about 75 degree celcius.

It also felt like it had trouble in heating up inside the car.

From what you wrote it seems that coolant is going through radiator all the time, meaning that thermostat is not closing flow of coolant when it is

not needed to be cooled.

Could this be due to defect sensors or can this only be because of a bad thermostate?

This you (or technicians) can check by toutching the pipes going to/from radiator. But that you need to know which pipe is for what flow and also be able to reach it by hand.

The rule is that when engine is cold - pipe going to radiator shall be cold (closed by thermostat).

This must be one for the shop then. I have extra stoneguards under the engine so I can´t get to the pipe that goes from the radiator.

Just picked it up from the shop after they changed the condenser for the aircon. Still a problem.

I have talked to the shop and they will take the car in again when I'm going on vacation in about a week. They are gona change some sensors and see if it works.

If they can't find the error they will ship the car to the main dealer and they will have a go at it.....

 

What's the difference between 'the shop' and the 'main dealer'?

 

Is the car now out of manufacturers warranty?