Im surprised you are drawing more that 100 Amps tbh.

Guess I'm pretty much following the same path as you on some things, and would/will eventually find out the same things :p

 

Write it all down, I'll find it handy one day...

Write it all down, I'll find it handy one day...

 

You'll find it handy? you mean me :P

You'll find it handy? you mean me :p

 

We'll find it handy.

Im surprised you are drawing more that 100 Amps tbh.

its only on the start up, can't remember the starting power atm but its fairly high  

Guess I'm pretty much following the same path as you on some things, and would/will eventually find out the same things :p

indeed only so many ways to skin a cat. i will be doing something a little different this year tho 

Write it all down, I'll find it handy one day...

 

I'll probably find it handy in 6months time when I'm chasing a fault and getting totally confused by my own wiring :P Its not that bad really... only thing I've had to butcher is the tail end of the loom for the rear lights and the aircon/fan connections (so far...).

 

FYI - The haynes manual has several wire colors wrong for the Ibiza, bit of a pain until you realize and just test them with a meter instead.

I'll probably find it handy in 6months time when I'm chasing a fault and getting totally confused by my own wiring :p Its not that bad really... only thing I've had to butcher is the tail end of the loom for the rear lights and the aircon/fan connections (so far...).

 

FYI - The haynes manual has several wire colors wrong for the Ibiza, bit of a pain until you realize and just test them with a meter instead.

 

Haynes manual for the Fabia is pants too, all the wiring is different colours. Have been told that Skoda changed the loom colour, routing (but while being electrically the same) too often so its not very reliable....

 

for the FGF with the Emerald ECU it was very easy (Emerald Datasheet has the pin out). With the OEM loom i would just sit in the engine bay and buzz it out.

its only on the start up, can't remember the starting power atm but its fairly high  

 

Bit confused as to what you mean by this, by starting power, do you just mean when you switch on the ignition? because the actual starting power is going to be in the order of a few KW (12VDC at a few hundred amps starting current) and traditionally isnt fused.

Presumably starting current would be more correct for those who know/care about the difference :p

 

And FYI the Ibiza starter is fused at 175 AMPs, which I believe is OTT which is why I wanted to go down on the battery fuse (that and 175A is at the limit of 4AWG cable).

Presumably starting current would be more correct for those who know/care about the difference :p

 

Indeed, and i do care about the difference (my job too)

 

I was going to fit a feed from the battery (Via an Isolation switch) to the Starter, then pick off from the isolation switch via a 100 Amp or so fuse for the everything else.

 

I wouldnt want to run the starter motor through a fuse, otherwise your going to have alot of trouble. end of a day a paper clip can carry 100 amps, but wont last long. a 140 Amp fuse could carry 500amps for a short while but not consistently/reliably. 

I was going to fit a feed from the battery (Via an Isolation switch) to the Starter, then pick off from the isolation switch via a 100 Amp or so fuse for the everything else.

 

The fuse is near the battery in case of an event that meant the live cable came in to contact with the chassis, either due to wear/rubbing or in an accident.

The fuse is near the battery in case of an event that meant the live cable came in to contact with the chassis, either due to wear/rubbing or in an accident.

 

Of course, your doing a battery in the boot. 

 

edit: Still dont know why you need a fuse, if the wire is tied down properly and is in the boot, (a la Austin Mini style) then it shouldnt rub. 

 

Ill probably use DR-25 Heat shrink in any areas where it could rub too, just to give an extra layer of protection. Means its fuel/chemical etc resistant too.

just what it draws during turn over i'm not amazing with the terms i just know it killed it so went bigger lol

Of course, your doing a battery in the boot. 

 

edit: Still dont know why you need a fuse, if the wire is tied down properly and is in the boot, (a la Austin Mini style) then it shouldnt rub. 

 

Ill probably use DR-25 Heat shrink in any areas where it could rub too, just to give an extra layer of protection. Means its fuel/chemical etc resistant too.

 

Pretty common setup with battery-in-boot cars (aftermarket anyway) and seems to make sense. My cable is secured and wrapped where required but that wouldn't stop a bit of sheared metal in an accident and then you have a fire in the cabin!

 

Can't see why it would cause issues as long as you have a fuse/breaker big enough? Unless you want to try driving/moving the car on the starter :P

Haynes manual for the Fabia is pants too, all the wiring is different colours. Have been told that Skoda changed the loom colour, routing (but while being electrically the same) too often so its not very reliable....

for the FGF with the Emerald ECU it was very easy (Emerald Datasheet has the pin out). With the OEM loom i would just sit in the engine bay and buzz it out.

**** it, I've just gone and bought a Haynes to do the Fabia wiring, I suppose the manual you sent me would've been a better place to start considering it's an actual Skoda one

**** it, I've just gone and bought a Haynes to do the Fabia wiring, I suppose the manual you sent me would've been a better place to start considering it's an actual Skoda one

 

 

The fuse locations are correct, so just follow the colours from there (and buzz them to be sure).

The fuse locations are correct, so just follow the colours from there (and buzz them to be sure).

 

This! ^

I am an electrician and AWG means absolutely jack all to me.

I believe its american muck.

Can we talk in mm2 ? Then i know what we are going on about

I am an electrician and AWG means absolutely jack all to me.

I believe its american muck.

Can we talk in mm2 ? Then i know what we are going on about

 

26mm2

So 25mm2 then

So 25mm2 then

 

Yes sorry.

Finished off lots of little bits today...

 

I now have rear lights, fuel, a complete coolant system, blower, intake and inter cooler piping with MAP sensor!

 

Got it started up and ran it until it got up to temp. Quite happy

 

Think there is an issue with the alternator which I need to investigate... the battery light is on and the battery was definitely getting weak after I'd started it about 5-6 times (could need a new battery too :() Few more fault codes being thrown but nothing that isn't expected... SAI, EVAP and airbag light is on (there are none wired in). Also I have the little steering wheel light on but the PAS works (can turn the wheels without a steering wheel!). EDIT: maybe its because there is no steering wheel? Dunno

 

Just waiting on a few more bits to finish the electrics off in the boot. AP coil overs should be here next week from DPM so that's pretty much everything I'm going to need to get it on the road

Dan, strangely enough I had exactly the same issue with the alternator.

It was working perfectly, I removed the engine to fit the manifold etc. put engine back in and it stopped working altogether! Req'd a new voltage regulator.

Dan, strangely enough I had exactly the same issue with the alternator.

It was working perfectly, I removed the engine to fit the manifold etc. put engine back in and it stopped working altogether! Req'd a new voltage regulator.

 

Well mine wasn't that... I'm not sure I want to say... but it could have potentially ended this project short...  :'(