Obviously, optimum pressure is dependent on tyre size and load. But I find the ride much more comfortable at the low end of the recommended range. Best to consult manual. I keep mine @ 36 psi all around.

I run 37 all round (19" on a combi) and it seems happy enough. When towing I bump the fronts to 42 and the back to 47 and that makes it feel like something akin to an old wooden wheeled cart 

Got my new black round things fitted yesterday. It was -4.5c when I got in the car!

 

Felt a bit floaty at 4:30 this morning gong around a couple of corners but then it was a) cold, b) road covered in grit, c) brand new tyres d) I wasn't taking it too easy e) I actually don't know what pressures they put in.

 

Felt better by the time I'd got to work and they'd covered 120 miles.

 

They certainly felt quieter than the Bridgestones that were on mine though.

 

Anyway.

 

How are your engines today? Anyone else running the Revo remap?

 

Edited 3 January, 20197 yr by DBT85

21 hours ago, Fantantonio said:

Any idea for optimum tire pressure for a 280 estate?

 

I just filled up based on the lowest pressure stated on the fuel flap sticker. 2.6bar (38psi) all round iirc. Feel more jiggly now but the tyres were under inflated at 31psi all round when I got it. I dread to think how it will ride at 2.9bar ...

 

I am on OE fit pirellis. 

1 hour ago, DBT85 said:

Got my new black round things fitted yesterday. It was -4.5c when I got in the car!

 

Felt a bit floaty at 4:30 this morning gong around a couple of corners but then it was a) cold, b) road covered in grit, c) brand new tyres d) I wasn't taking it too easy e) I actually don't know what pressures they put in.

 

Felt better by the time I'd got to work and they'd covered 120 miles.

 

They certainly felt quieter than the Bridgestones that were on mine though.

 

Anyway.

 

How are your engines today? Anyone else running the Revo remap?

 

What tyres did you get?

 

It's the fastest car I ever owned and practically too quick for day to day driving if you use the power but remapping is always in the back of my head. Do you have the revo remap, and if you do, can you share your thoughts?

How much does this Revo remap cost any way?

 

And yes - @DBT85 what tyres did you get?

 

I've got a set of Vredestein Quatrac 5 all seasons on the way. Done over 20k Miles on the P7s and decided I want to change, even though there is a good few k left on them...

19 minutes ago, TGR said:

How much does this Revo remap cost any way?

 

 

43 minutes ago, KeteCantek said:

It's the fastest car I ever owned and practically too quick for day to day driving if you use the power but remapping is always in the back of my head. Do you have the revo remap, and if you do, can you share your thoughts?

 

 

@newbie69 yes I have seen that thread. 

 

Car is still under warranty so I won't be touching anything yet but who knows in a years time...

 

More interested in an owner's thought about day to day driving and if there are any drawbacks such as permanently increased fuel consumption. High octane fuel isn't a problem because I already use it all the time lol. 

2 hours ago, KeteCantek said:

What tyres did you get?

 

It's the fastest car I ever owned and practically too quick for day to day driving if you use the power but remapping is always in the back of my head. Do you have the revo remap, and if you do, can you share your thoughts?

 

1 hour ago, TGR said:

How much does this Revo remap cost any way?

 

And yes - @DBT85 what tyres did you get?

 

I've got a set of Vredestein Quatrac 5 all seasons on the way. Done over 20k Miles on the P7s and decided I want to change, even though there is a good few k left on them...

 

Conti TS860S winters. I dropped from 235 to 225 though at frankly it saved me £100 a tyre and I'll cope with the difference. The first winters I've bought in 15 years of driving. Since I now live in Worcester and have to work in London I figured it was a safe bet just in case. As it happens I needed tyres anyway as I had a bulge in the front left, a tear in the rear left and something else on the front right! All appeared in the last 2 weeks and only 1 was deffo my fault (caught a kerb on the rear left, scuffing the wheel and ****ing me off in the process. I was tired and just turned in a bit early).

 

I don;t have the Revo. My car came from Startin Skoda in Worcester and was the MDs "show" car. All of the upper ups there get Steinbauer boxes fitted as standardas they already have higher or max spec cars (I think the only thing missing on mine is the flappy paddles and a towbar) which is supposed to offer about 20% increase, though you can dial it back all the way to off if you like. I've not tried playing with it. I just know that its rapid when I want it to be, but its rapid anyway! From what I can tell though the Steinbauer box just keeps the injectors open a fraction longer. I don't know if it tells the ecu to do anything else.

2 hours ago, DBT85 said:

(caught a kerb on the rear left, scuffing the wheel and ****ing me off in the process. I was tired and just turned in a bit early).

 

Really easy to do if you're not used to driving a car this long. The first week of driving it, I cut into a parking space too early and took the front bumper off a Mercedes with my left rear tyre. Why must I always learn the hard way?!!! Wahhhhhh!!!

2 hours ago, KeteCantek said:

@newbie69 yes I have seen that thread. 

 

Car is still under warranty so I won't be touching anything yet but who knows in a years time...

 

More interested in an owner's thought about day to day driving and if there are any drawbacks such as permanently increased fuel consumption. High octane fuel isn't a problem because I already use it all the time lol. 

 

As with other tuned turbo cars, staying off boost means zero difference to your consumption. And, if you can manage driving it the same as before and mostly use it for "focused" throttle applications ie. a set acceleration for an overtake or similar instead of "how fast I can go 'till I need to brake" the consumption might actually be lower given that you now reach the speeds you need quicker and can back off throttle sooner.

What usually causes extra consumption is self-containment  or to be precise, the lack of    When your car can now produce more horizontal G's with every throttle application it's hard to not have the occassional fun every now and then...

Edited 3 January, 20197 yr by newbie69

2 hours ago, DBT85 said:

From what I can tell though the Steinbauer box just keeps the injectors open a fraction longer. I don't know if it tells the ecu to do anything else.

 

I've read the ad briefly but I find it hard to believe it does just that, after all modern ECUs monitor and adapt hundreds of parameters simultaneously during each cycle. It's not that you'll simply spray more fuel and you'll get more power, rather a richer mixture. The way most of these boxes work is by tricking the ECU into thinking it's making less boost, by bypassing the boost signal. Then the ECU makes up for that by providing the necessary extra fuel and air to hit that target (but always based on stock power, timing and fueling maps, as opposed to a proper remap that adds new maps specifically designed for making the extra power).

If sticking with tuning boxes for removability and non-traceability purposes I'd much rather go with a JB4 from Burger Motorsports. Proven solution on these engines and with actual control over fueling which is what you want really. Not blindly making more boost on wrong assumptions regarding the rest of the parameters. Maybe a discussion for a separate topic al-together though.

Edited 3 January, 20197 yr by newbie69

23 minutes ago, newbie69 said:

 

I've read the ad briefly but I find it hard to believe it does just that, after all modern ECUs monitor and adapt hundreds of parameters simultaneously during each cycle. It's not that you'll simply spray more fuel and you'll get more power, rather a richer mixture. The way most of these boxes work is by tricking the ECU into thinking it's making less boost, by bypassing the boost signal. Then the ECU makes up for that by providing the necessary extra fuel and air to hit that target (but always based on stock power, timing and fueling maps, as opposed to a proper remap that adds new maps specifically designed for making the extra power).

If sticking with tuning boxes for removability and non-traceability purposes I'd much rather go with a JB4 from Burger Motorsports. Proven solution on these engines and with actual control over fueling which is what you want really. Not blindly making more boost on wrong assumptions regarding the rest of the parameters. Maybe a discussion for a separate topic al-together though.

Oh I agree. I'd not have bought it myself. I didn't even know the car had it until I'd paid the £500 deposit for the car and the guy went "oh by the way, it's got a steinbauer box in it" and I was like "a who now?"

 

The only thing I've seen from Steinbauer is that they put a lead between the injectors and the ECU and intercept and extend that signal which in itself shouldn't just give you 20% more power. That's part of why I'm so sceptical about it as information is frankly hard to come by which it isn't with something like Revo.

 

I'll have a look at it and see what else its connected to. 

 

I should do some tests at some point but its just getting around to it!

23 hours ago, newbie69 said:

consumption might actually be lower given that you now reach the speeds you need quicker and can back off throttle sooner.

So you reckon to save fuel by accelerating harder?

5 minutes ago, facet edge said:

So you reckon to save fuel by accelerating harder?

 

This is where knowledge and appreciation of the BSFC map of the engine. BSFC: brake specific fuel consumption

 

This can be very complex and you also need to take into account gearing.

 

It may sound counterintuitive, but slowly accelerating to a target speed, will use more fuel than a more rapid acceleration, but not too rapid, there will be an optimum for a given gearing and load, so even weight and gradients will influence the optimum profile.

 

BSFC maps can be very complex, engines can even end up place multiple sweet spots in quite different areas.

 

The graph below is not a VAG engine

22 minutes ago, facet edge said:

So you reckon to save fuel by accelerating harder?

Actually most so called eco driving guides state to accelerate dynamically (like 3/4 of pedal limit) to get to desired speed quicker.

On 04/01/2019 at 15:02, xman said:

 

This is where knowledge and appreciation of the BSFC map of the engine. BSFC: brake specific fuel consumption

 

This can be very complex and you also need to take into account gearing.

 

It may sound counterintuitive, but slowly accelerating to a target speed, will use more fuel than a more rapid acceleration, but not too rapid, there will be an optimum for a given gearing and load, so even weight and gradients will influence the optimum profile.

 

BSFC maps can be very complex, engines can even end up place multiple sweet spots in quite different areas.

 

The graph below is not a VAG engine

So you download a BFSC and then drive to its parameters?

This sounds like theory overcoming practicalities. Firstly, how on earth would you know where your throttle is positioned when you push your foot down?

As you say, there are so many other parameters that come into play you wouldn't be able to do it.

If you are accelerating a certain weight to 60mph it's going to take a certain amount of energy. I don't think the throttle position is going to make much difference even if you knew exactly where to put it.

I do think that the DSG will come into its own here as it is mapped to give the optimum consumption for any throttle opening.

In real world driving I am entering a motorway I match my speed to the traffic, driving in traffic I have to keep pace with the car in front. Going down hill I ease off the throttle, going up I press it harder. 

I don't think I have ever thought that I should accelerate a bit faster to save fuel, even if I could.

 

8 minutes ago, facet edge said:

I don't think I have ever thought that I should accelerate a bit faster to save fuel, even if I could.

 

Obviously you've missed the point I was making.

 

12 minutes ago, facet edge said:

 

If you are accelerating a certain weight to 60mph it's going to take a certain amount of energy. I don't think the throttle position is going to make much difference even if you knew exactly where to put it.

 

To take an extreme example, taking a minute to accelerate to 60 mph probably uses more fuel than taking 15 seconds, because..... the engine is constantly operating in a less efficient part of its map and for longer.

 

But you are right, its not possible to guess what the optimum acceleration is, for fuel economy, and in the real world other issues take precedence.

Exactly. Whether one knows about it at all or how often road conditions allow for it is irrelevant to the fact that being able to hit a given speed sooner favours consumption.

 

Of-course this is true up to a point. A stage 1 (the original subject of discussion) is merely a sightly modified map with everything else left stock. A 500ps big turbo Superb where a whole lot of parameters (timing, fueling) have been modified and are operating in different ranges to make almost double the original power is something different. I'd imagine the principle does not really apply there simply because the whole power making process has been changed so much.

 

 

I had a pleasant surprise when the dealer rang last week saying my  272 was arriving 6 weeks earlier than planned!  I've found a company to do some new car protection detailing (ceramic coat etc), but I was looking for reputable company to fit a tuning box (preferably a JB4). Any recommendations around south London, Surrey, Sussex or north Kent?

Edited 9 February, 20197 yr by Parmenion

Try Kelly at KDS

 

Not only are they second to non for detailing / ceramic coating etc but they also do mechanical work as well.

9 hours ago, Parmenion said:

I had a pleasant surprise when the dealer rang last week saying my  272 was arriving 6 weeks earlier than planned!  I've found a company to do some new car protection detailing (ceramic coat etc), but I was looking for reputable company to fit a tuning box (preferably a JB4). Any recommendations around south London, Surrey, Sussex or north Kent?

Roughly as earlier as mine that from mid March originally, arrived the 5th of Feb   So early that I still haven't purchased my "start pack" for it consisting of: JB4, rear ARB and spacers for the new wheels, need to hurry  

The JB4 isn't particularly hard to install, the trickiest bit is passing the cables through the firewall and getting to the D plug down low for which you need to either jack the car up or use a lift. Have done the installation in both cases, maybe with a bit of swearing when not using the lift, but it's ok.

By the way, mine came not with Cinturato P7's but with Bridgestone Potenza S001. Those were the stock tires on the GTI Clubsport too. They were not the ideal tire for that car as their traction was rather ****e but that won't be a problem on a AWD car. On the plus side, they have a relatively stiff sidewall (much more than a PS4S) which gives crisp steering and feedback so I am thinking they will work much better on the Superb which could use some chassis "sharpening" in general.

Edited 9 February, 20197 yr by newbie69

I've been round a few tire places this morning asking if any would take some delivery milage pirelli cinturato P7 s in part exchange against something a bit more sporty, hopefully my 272 with supernovas will come with Bridgestone potenzas too 

Edited 9 February, 20197 yr by SteHaworth

23 hours ago, Gizmo said:

Try Kelly at KDS

 

Not only are they second to non for detailing / ceramic coating etc but they also do mechanical work as well.

Thanks for the recommendation - I'd seen their new car protection package online already so will bear them in mind. 

23 hours ago, newbie69 said:

Roughly as earlier as mine that from mid March originally, arrived the 5th of Feb   So early that I still haven't purchased my "start pack" for it consisting of: JB4, rear ARB and spacers for the new wheels, need to hurry  

The JB4 isn't particularly hard to install, the trickiest bit is passing the cables through the firewall and getting to the D plug down low for which you need to either jack the car up or use a lift. Have done the installation in both cases, maybe with a bit of swearing when not using the lift, but it's ok.

By the way, mine came not with Cinturato P7's but with Bridgestone Potenza S001. Those were the stock tires on the GTI Clubsport too. They were not the ideal tire for that car as their traction was rather ****e but that won't be a problem on a AWD car. On the plus side, they have a relatively stiff sidewall (much more than a PS4S) which gives crisp steering and feedback so I am thinking they will work much better on the Superb which could use some chassis "sharpening" in general.

 

Yes I was surprised it was some much earlier give the delays other people have had before - I  thought it might be Skoda rushing stock into the UK before 29th March but if you got yours in Sweden earlier too it sounds like something else is the reason? Thanks for the heads up on the tyres - that would be good if they come with Potenza's in the UK too.

 

 With the tuning box if it was a plug and play I could do in 5 minutes like the DTUK I would probably do it myself but can't be bothered with the faff of tapping wires and getting underneath the car - plus if a mistake is made I at least some recourse to getting it fixed. I haven't gotten around to contacting my local skoda franchise to see if they do lowering springs yet either.