Hi guys, I'm pretty new here but I was wondering if someone could help me with an issue I've been having.

 

My car is a 2006 Fabia VRS with around 84000 miles on the clock. (bought it around 4 months ago)

 

I'm pretty sure that everything on the car is totally standard - Dual mass flywheel etc. 

 

 

 

This started happening a few weeks ago - I can't seem to recreate the problem as hard as I try. The problem seems to occur maybe once every 8-10 gear changes

 

 

Slight problems getting the gear shifter into first gear, I can feel a sort of bump is the only way I can explain it as it goes in (Yes the clutch is 100% depressed, the carpet isn't in the way, and I don't use force with the shifter :P )

 

I also have problems getting out of first gear, and also reverse too. If I accelerate up to speed to change into second gear - there is never a problem - it shifts straight into second with no issues at all. But If I'm stopped and want to pull it to neutral, the gear knob refuses to budge out of first gear. I can hear a slight rumble noise as if I'd brought the clutch pedal up a little. Most of the time i can just bring the clutch up a little, press it back down and it will come out of gear. 

 

Sometimes it won't come out no matter how much i fiddle with the clutch, accelerator. Clutch and DMF seem totally fine to me and some others that have had a quick look at my car, any suggestions are welcome! 

 

 

First of all, adjust the gear linkages: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/202072-how-to-adjust-the-gear-stick-to-gear-box-linkage/

 

 

When I purchased my Fabia, it wouldn't go into reverse, and had lots of trouble going into first. They'd had people refuse to buy the car as the "gearbox was knackered". I adjusted the gear linkages, which takes about 5 minutes, and problem was solved. Makes you wonder how many VAG cars are out there with "broken" gearboxes

Edited 23 February, 201610 yr by wiredsoftware

As said above do the linkages, it might also be worth changing rthe gearbox oil too. It's surprising how much difference it can make.

Read my thread on this also (do a search for it it was only last month). I did all known fixes - each made it a bit better but it is still bad so the gearbox is out and being rebuilt. Yours sounds the same but try the other stuff first before splashing out on a rebuild. HTH. 

Thanks for the replies, I'll be sure to give these suggestions a go as soon as I can - along with probably putting in some new brake/clutch fluid.

 

My car is technically still under warranty from the dealer - would they perhaps cover something like a gearbox rebuild?

 

When it gets stuck try switching the engine off, if it then comes free you have clutch drag.

Another thing to try is let the car roll back slightly,  does this cause the problem ?

Mine didn't like going into 1st and reverse, i did all the linkage adjust, but when i did a full brake fluid change i forgot to bleed the clutch, after i did this it was all fine.

Edited 24 February, 201610 yr by FromTheDarkness

I can indeed get it out of gear when I switch the engine off - It feels like clutch drag to me

 

Tried bleeding the clutch yesterday to no avail :(

Still not ahd time to adjust the linkage but that's next on the list

adjust the linkage first, then look into the gearbox shim kit - mine had similar problems and that fixed mine.

Having some trouble adjusting the linkage - Finally did exactly what I thought needed to be done just as it was getting dark lastnight, but now I can't get the shifter into reverse or second gear.

 

When I put the shifter into first - it engages reverse gear... oops?
 

I guess I must have done something wrong? Any ideas which part I could have messed up?

No harm in doing it again, make sure you follow the steps exactly in the order in the video. Also, before you start, spray a little WD40 on the black knurled bits and their springs, sometimes they might not let the thread inside move freely once disengaged if they've not been done for a long time.

Edited 29 February, 201610 yr by wiredsoftware

How important is the locking pin for the gear shifter (inside the car) 

 

The pin i'm using is ever so slightly too small, and it's not long enough to reach to the bottom of the hole - Is this an important factor? or is the only important part that the gear shifter is held in a certain place

Thanks again guys

Both are very important for the job your doing.

Wrap some tape around it if it's to thin to bulk it up.

Thanks for the clarification, I'll see if i can just pick up a correct size nail to use rather than faffing about with tape :P

Thanks for the clarification, I'll see if i can just pick up a correct size nail to use rather than faffing about with tape :p

 

just make sure what ever you use has and end that will stop it going all the way through (ie DONT use a drill bit like suggested in some places), been there done that...spent half an hour retrieving it from an awkward place (oooo errr!)

Try using one of your plus head screwdrivers, I had one that was a perfect fit.

Just a quick follow up post:

 

After i got back from work this evening i managed to get a little bit of time before it got dark and after a few attempts i managed to adjust it so that all gears went in. The locking pin on the transmission side is really awkward to get to... Unless I'm doing something wrong?

 

After the adjustment and applying some WD40 (I think it needed it) It's not gotten stuck in gear yet, I don't want to give the all clear yet as the problem was intermittent to begin with. I have had a few problems getting it into reverse, but taking the shifter back to neutral and giving it a second before trying again seemed to sort it out - Probably due to my not so perfect adjustment :P

 

Thanks again for the help everyone.

Just a quick follow up post:

 

After i got back from work this evening i managed to get a little bit of time before it got dark and after a few attempts i managed to adjust it so that all gears went in. The locking pin on the transmission side is really awkward to get to... Unless I'm doing something wrong?

 

After the adjustment and applying some WD40 (I think it needed it) It's not gotten stuck in gear yet, I don't want to give the all clear yet as the problem was intermittent to begin with. I have had a few problems getting it into reverse, but taking the shifter back to neutral and giving it a second before trying again seemed to sort it out - Probably due to my not so perfect adjustment :p

 

Thanks again for the help everyone.

 

There is definitely plate in the shaft then - if its the outer at the NSF wheel you can pop the cap off and if there is play you can shim it for now as mentioned earlier in the thread; If no play then as said previously the play is on the opposite side in the gearbox so its a rebuild. Mine had 25mm play the rebuilders said, and the knock-on affect was 5th/6th synchro was foobarred apparently so glad I took it somewhere to get sorted (the one thing I will not do is take a 60+kg gearbox out on my driveway! Good luck and hope you get it sorted. 

Where can i get the shim and replacement cover from?

Theres no VW dealers anywhere near me :/

 

Could someone could point me in the right direction?

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6089802-02M-whining-decel-noises-aftermarket-clutch-disengagement-issues-mainshaft-axial-play

 

part numbers explained in here and video of install. Parts can be ordered from any VAG dealer i got mine from Seat. Although I did not have any play so could not fit it so just popped the new cap on. 

There should only be a few millimetres of play, anymore try the shim. Mine was like stuarts , zero play. But the I had an over shimmed diff so I had no play anywhere lol.

I've ordered the shim and replacement cap online and will take a look when they arrive - no point doing it until then

 

I'll let you know how it goes

I just orderd mine this morning from ebay, so will see if it cures my problems also!

Ordered mine from dealers today, Thomas at skoda parts brilliant once again, mentioned briskoda, order went from 30quid to 22 (I've got a few bits ordered at once)

i was going to say... £22 for the shim with discount. rip off!

 

Edit: What sort of problems are you having then?

thats 3 of us in a row going to try the fix so will be worth keeping track fo whos done it and what its fixed.

Edited 3 March, 201610 yr by hutchysrs50