Sorry if this has been asked earlier.

How easy is it to upgrade the xenon bulbs on the S3. Is it a pro job or an easy job for the likes of me?

If it has been asked please share the link, cheers

I watched a video on You Tube at changing a Xenon bulb. Didn't look too tricky but it was on an Insignia. Just have to be damn careful not to knock the igniter on the way in. Not sure on clearances around the headlamp units on the S3. Might have a nosey in the morning as I'm considering an upgrade to the Philips Xtreme vision or whatever they're called. I fancy the 4800k colour temp. Nice white light. The S3 Xenons appear more yellow at around 4350k?

I watched a video on You Tube at changing a Xenon bulb. Didn't look too tricky but it was on an Insignia. Just have to be damn careful not to knock the igniter on the way in. Not sure on clearances around the headlamp units on the S3. Might have a nosey in the morning as I'm considering an upgrade to the Philips Xtreme vision or whatever they're called. I fancy the 4800k colour temp. Nice white light. The S3 Xenons appear more yellow at around 4350k?

 

I watched a video on You Tube at changing a Xenon bulb. Didn't look too tricky but it was on an Insignia. Just have to be damn careful not to knock the igniter on the way in. Not sure on clearances around the headlamp units on the S3. Might have a nosey in the morning as I'm considering an upgrade to the Philips Xtreme vision or whatever they're called. I fancy the 4800k colour temp. Nice white light. The S3 Xenons appear more yellow at around 4350k?

Yep thinking the same....when I get the car that is!!!

I watched a video on You Tube at changing a Xenon bulb. Didn't look too tricky but it was on an Insignia. Just have to be damn careful not to knock the igniter on the way in. Not sure on clearances around the headlamp units on the S3. Might have a nosey in the morning as I'm considering an upgrade to the Philips Xtreme vision or whatever they're called. I fancy the 4800k colour temp. Nice white light. The S3 Xenons appear more yellow at around 4350k?

Don't recommend philips xtreme vision...gonna replace them with night breaker unlimited and believe me I know what I'm talking about...driving with philips 1 month and they are bluish and trow 2 white stripes to front of the car and rest of the road is dark. Even original xenarcs were better than xtreme visions. I want best and lots of light on the road...tomorrow report about night breakers!

Cheers Fuzzz. Duely noted. Look forward to the report.

Night breaker UL are 4350°K so what's the advantage?

Would not the 'Cool Blue' uncoated lamp be better @ 5,500°K.

I'm assuming these are all D3S types now?

Edited 11 March, 201610 yr by FelisBengalensis

Night breaker UL are 4350°K so what's the advantage?

Would not the 'Cool Blue' uncoated lamp be better @ 5,500°K.

I'm assuming these are all D3S types now?

AFAIK the higher up the colour temp range you go, the lower the lumen output or so I've read. Anyone had any experience of the Morimoto XB bulbs. The hype seems a little to good to be true.

Edited 11 March, 201610 yr by Devonshiredave

The S3 lamps are D3S type. The ignitor is part of the lamp base, that's why D1S and D3S lamps have that silver block on the base compared to D2S and D4S type. 

 

Also beware there are loads of pretty convincing fakes out there - until the lamps are put to use. Some are even unwittingly sold by legitimate sellers. 

 

Access looks tight but possible. The lamps are accessed by plastic covers that unscrew from the rear. All of the AFS controllers and ballasts are hidden away in the light fitting - unlike the lights on the Mk2 FL where the Ballast and (presumably) AFS controller were stuck on the back, making for awful access to the lamp itself! 

 

I'm fitting my Philips Xtreme vision lamps on Monday evening at work. I'll post my observations in due course. 

AFAIK the higher up the colour temp range you go, the lower the lumen output or so I've read. Anyone had e pertinence of the Morimoto XB bulbs? The hype seems a little too good to be true.

I was running the cool blue intense (CBI) lamps on my previous car. The colour was good once the lamps had time to burn in, but I feel the colour was a compromise over useable light, hence my opting for the Xtremes this time round. 

 

I've had no experience with Morimoto stuff and would be interested to hear more about them. For the time being, I will stick with the usual OEM's like Philips or Osram. 

AFAIK the higher up the colour temp range you go, the lower the lumen output or so I've read.

 

correct 4,300K - 5,000K are the brightest you can get, the colour that the higher K bulbs produce actually reduces their output.

Night breaker unlimited seem pretty good but eye watering price.

I assume the S3 headlights are not like the MK2 Octavia... i.e. quick release?

Night breaker unlimited seem pretty good but eye watering price.

Yep. I got mine from here: https://www.lichtex.de/xenon-licht/brenner-birne-lampe-bulb-bombila/xenon-d3s-fassung/

 

The lamps I received appear to be genuine. There are hologram stickers and serial numbers that you can verify on Philips' website. 

 

Nothing is 100% guaranteed, but it certainly reduces the chances of them being fake. 

I assume the S3 headlights are not like the MK2 Octavia... i.e. quick release?

It doesn't look like it. Removing the bumper to get to the headlights seems to be the norm these days. I guess the rather complex release mechanism on the Mk2 Octavia was quite expensive compared to 3 or 4 bolts. It was necessary as the front wings swept in and over the lights. Not the case with the Mk2 or Mk3 Superbs.

Not changed them on our S3, but I upgraded the Xenon bulbs on my Yeti with Nightbreaker Xenarcs, it was an easy job.

Being a photographer I understand the colour temp, and lumen impact part for those that want the 'bluer' light, but as the standard lamps are around 4350°K what does the Xenarc Nightbreaker Ultimate do that it so much better and makes it worth that very high (IMHO) price over a standard Xenarc? Isn't it the same colour temperature +/- the usual tolerances?

I can't see anything obvious in the manufacturers data sheet other than the light output is +200lm with no tolerance figure. (Others are quoted at light density output +/-16%). 200lm isn't a massive increase over standard and to double the perceived light level you need 4x the light output.

I would also probably only go with an OEM manufacturer in case of warranty issues.....and have been bitten before by what seemed a good deal but wasn't!

After looking at the specs of the Xenarcs I had the same thoughts.

Here is the reply from Osram technical:

Thank you for your web message.

The parameters such as light output are controlled by the ECE regulations, so although we can bias the output to the top of the specification, we still have to comply with the standard.

The increased beam performance of the Night Breaker Unlimited is achieved by special controls on the arc that generates the light.

The actual increase in illumination is dependent on the headlight, but can be up to 70% more light on the road and up to 20 metre longer beam.

If you are looking for a 'bluer' light, our Cool Blue Intense version offers a road legal, interchangeable bulb that gives up to 5500K.

I upgraded the Xenon bulbs on my Yeti with Nightbreaker Xenarcs, it was an easy job.

 

I can only assume the pre F/L Yeti xenons are not as good as the F/L ones as SWMBO’s Yeti (2014 L&K) has amazing xenons... far brighter than my S3 and previous S2 & S1 xenons.

Removing the bumper to get to the headlights seems to be the norm these days.

 

You're not wrong. It's pretty ridiculous imho, and shouldn't be allowed to stand (by consumers etc I mean). I remember when I started driving (and this was all fields, etc) the 90s cars I had needed a few steps at worst:

 

1) Open bonnet

2) Raise latch/lever on headlight housing

3) Pop out bulb

4) Pop in new bulb

5) Close unit latch to secure

6) Close bonnet

 

Literally a two minute job, if that. Now it's a case of removing wheels, wheelarch liners, dropping bumpers... for a bloody headlight? World's gone mad I tell you. :no: :$$$:

Edited 11 March, 201610 yr by Derv

It's almost a waste of time having a spare bulb kit as per the requirement of many European Countries as who is going to carry a replacement D3S bulb at £50-£80 a pop along with various normal bulbs and LED's when you need the tools and facilities of a well equipped workshop to be able to replace them. 

 

There is seriously very little that you would be able to change at the roadside with most modern cars these days.

I can only assume the pre F/L Yeti xenons are not as good as the F/L ones as SWMBO’s Yeti (2014 L&K) has amazing xenons... far brighter than my S3 and previous S2 & S1 xenons.

They were fine, but thought if there was a chance to upgrade, then why not give it a go

Bought D1S Osram Night Breaker Unlimited xenon bulbs for my MK2 Superb. Appeared, the facelift Superb has D3S bulbs instead and dealer had only Osram Cool Blue Intense bulbs. So chenged into these. Difference between Osrams and OEM bulbs is huge. Osrams are way brighter. Worth upgrading.

Low beam of SII still sucks, as it is too short.

Cheers Fuzzz. Duely noted. Look forward to the report.

So...did a bulb replacement fron xtreme vision to night breakers. Yes...they are a lot yellower but after couple of hours driving they allready got whiter. I have very sensitive eyes and notice every light change. Highly recommend nightbreakers. Sides of the road are now visible but a longer beam is questionable...I have Superb FL and a bulb change is a PITA 3hrs work...and tight conditions. So here is my little report☺

I'm still unsure how easy or difficult it is to change the bulbs. Any comments would be welcome

I'm still unsure how easy or difficult it is to change the bulbs. Any comments would be welcome

I'm changing mine tonight at work. I'll report on how I get on tomorrow along with some pictures of the replacement process, along with some before and after shots of the beams. Trouble is, the lamps need to burn in for several hours before reaching peak output and light colour so that bit might be a waste of time. We'll see......