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Octavia III reversing camera


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I am in the throws of buying an Octavia VRS estate, which doesn't have a reversing camera. As Mrs Ferrett would like one I made enquiries with a couple of local dealers, and the upshot is that they tell me it is not possible to retro-fit one, even though it is on the new car option list. The car is six months old with an Amundsen head unit. Has anybody had one fitted? or can anybody offer any suggestions as to a possible solution?

 

Cheers.

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LOL. You should have bought Octavia with Parking assistance then...

Thanks for that. Going to have to do something I think. Despite having a camera on our last car, Mrs Ferrett reversed into the house. God knows what she will do without one.

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the upshot is that they tell me it is not possible to retro-fit one, even though it is on the new car option list.

What dealers actually mean when they say "it is not possible to retro-fit one" is that Skoda don't make available a kit which includes all the parts needed to retro-fit one.

 

That is not the same as it not being possible to retro-fit one - as many owners prove time after time when they retro-fit "impossible" things.

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What dealers actually mean when they say "it is not possible to retro-fit one" is that Skoda don't make available a kit which includes all the parts needed to retro-fit one.

That is not the same as it not being possible to retro-fit one - as many owners prove time after time when they retro-fit "impossible" things.

This is the OEM skoda item with everything you need

http://www.cars-equipment.com/www/en/shop/rear-view-cameras-3/oem-5e5827566c-rvc-lowline-camera-kit/

Edited by Wakey
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Despite having a camera on our last car, Mrs Ferrett reversed into the house. God knows what she will do without one.

Did you have parking sensors? The beeping from the sensors on the Octavia might be more useful than a camera.

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Did you have parking sensors? The beeping from the sensors on the Octavia might be more useful than a camera.

Sadly Mrs Ferrett can't hear, hence the camera. I'm sure the house had moved.

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Is this all I would need for my 16 VRS estate?  Plus someone to code of course?

 

I had the same question for my 2016 vRS estate:

 

I have access to VCDS and I'd like to give the rear view camera install a go. Can anyone help me by confirming that the components below are what I need/will work?

 

Camera option 1 (wired so will not require wifi kit)

 

Camera option 2 (would use wifi kit with this)

 

Camera option 3 (may or may not use wifi kit with this)

 

Wifi kit

 

Connectors for rear of glovebox unit

 

Some questions:

 

I will measure my boot release handle tonight, but does anyone know if the above cameras will fit without any cutting or modification? Yes, option 3 did anyway

 

I assume both cameras above retain the boot release mechanism? Yes, option 3 did anyway

 

My reverse and number plate lights are already coded to LED's so that's sorted. Just need to code the 'Handsfree-Modul' I only needed to change module 5F byte 19 bit 4

 

Thanks in advance!

 
 
I have answered some of my own questions in red above. :)
 
aki78 was very helpful:
 

I vote for camera3 (good feedbacks and wide viewing angle, like the original). I would order the SONY wired option. This will fit if you have the bigger boot handle (no need to cut). Fixing is different from the original (with screws), but this can be easily solved. Just check this link.

I saw some feedbacks on AliExpress about camera1 and the viewing angle is not so great. You won't see your bumper. Also the camera housing looks ugly, it's too big.

Direct wiring is better IMHO than the wireless option. You can easily hide the wire in the cabin.

I would suggest to feed the camera from one of the reversing lights. This will prevent overheating of the camera and it's voltage converter. You'll need to code the reversing lights to LED to get pure DC.

 

Terminals are OK.  :)

 

I went with the camera option 3, and used a couple of brackets to fix it securely, (as per the link provide by aki78 above) inside the tailgate. I took power and ground for the camera from the rear wiper, as the cable supplied wasn't long enough to reach to the reverse light, and would have necessitated more routing from the tailgate to the body than was already required.

 

A few points to note:

  • The camera linked to above took about 3 weeks to arrive
  • Make sure you have NTSC video output from whatever camera you go for
  • The camera I bought has a slight 'fish eye' effect. I find it quite useful at times, although you do get two small dark patches in the top corners of the screen. (I have the Amundsen unit)
  • Routing the cable can be a pain, especially from the tailgate through to the body.
  • I bought a cheapo trim removal tool kit, well worth the £5/6 I think it cost, also the tools required to remove the glove box unit, again very inexpensive.
  • The connectors for the rear of the glovebox unit  are worth getting a few of in case you wreck some in the process (they're usually sold in packs of 10 anyway, and are pretty inexpensive)
  • The cabling to the back of the glovebox unit was quite tight on mine - watch out for scratches on the surrounding plastics whilst removing it.
  • If using scotchlok type connectors, ensure your connections are good - mine didn't penetrate the insulation at first, leaving me baffled as to why the camera wasn't working...  :notme:

Good luck!

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I'm tempted by cameras but the most sensible to me seems the number plate light kind ( disagree if required! ).

 

Not messing with the rear hatch release when you can just replace out one of the number plate lights, seems the lesser of two weevils.

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I'm tempted by cameras but the most sensible to me seems the number plate light kind ( disagree if required! ).

 

Not messing with the rear hatch release when you can just replace out one of the number plate lights, seems the lesser of two weevils.

You still have to route the cable to the headunit, remove trims, etc...same amount of work.

With a number plate light camera you'll have assymetric lighting with two different color temperatures. I would hate it...

Edited by aki78
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I had the same question for my 2016 vRS estate:

 

 
I have answered some of my own questions in red above. :)
 
aki78 was very helpful:
 
 

 

I went with the camera option 3, and used a couple of brackets to fix it securely, (as per the link provide by aki78 above) inside the tailgate. I took power and ground for the camera from the rear wiper, as the cable supplied wasn't long enough to reach to the reverse light, and would have necessitated more routing from the tailgate to the body than was already required.

 

A few points to note:

  • The camera linked to above took about 3 weeks to arrive
  • Make sure you have NTSC video output from whatever camera you go for
  • The camera I bought has a slight 'fish eye' effect. I find it quite useful at times, although you do get two small dark patches in the top corners of the screen. (I have the Amundsen unit)
  • Routing the cable can be a pain, especially from the tailgate through to the body.
  • I bought a cheapo trim removal tool kit, well worth the £5/6 I think it cost, also the tools required to remove the glove box unit, again very inexpensive.
  • The connectors for the rear of the glovebox unit  are worth getting a few of in case you wreck some in the process (they're usually sold in packs of 10 anyway, and are pretty inexpensive)
  • The cabling to the back of the glovebox unit was quite tight on mine - watch out for scratches on the surrounding plastics whilst removing it.
  • If using scotchlok type connectors, ensure your connections are good - mine didn't penetrate the insulation at first, leaving me baffled as to why the camera wasn't working...  :notme:

Good luck!

Any chance to post up some photos of the camera picture? :)

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You still have to route the cable to the headunit, remove trims, etc...same amount of work.

With a number plate light camera you'll have assymetric lighting with two different color temperatures. I would hate it...

 

Nope, you don't necessarily have to.

You can get A/V sender/receivers and just wire them with a relevant power source close to their final location and do away with wiring altogether.

 

Not quite sure which way I'd want to do it though as my only experience of those is household ( seem okay, so can't see they wouldn't work in this situation which would be similar to single room sending, would just be happy to know it doesn't interfere with anything like DAB which I don't know).

 

If you changed to one side ( e.g. LED on one) then surely you could simply LED modify the other ?

After all its only a rear number plate light and don't plan spending much time staring at it - and only relevant at night time ( first world problems eh!)

Edited by vRSAnt
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post-57274-0-26542700-1474624973_thumb.jpg

This is the camera I fitted to the number plate of my wife's Fabia.  Was £22 and is great, no problems at night at all (though she a very bright cree reversing bulb).  Only reason I would go for the handle one on my octava is so it is more in the middle which satisfies my OCD better!

Only thing that is annoying is when you get the camera in the light, the led light is tiny and gives off enough, but a very small amount of light.  If you then put an led bulb in the other side, to make them match you have to get the smallest, least powerful one you can and then tape up most of the lens with black insulation tape so the whole is the same size. Otherwise you get a floodlight on one side and almost nothing on the other.

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I make that to be about £160.....  Does that represent good value?  I do like the idea of a proper (VAG) replacement boot handle and camera.

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I make that to be about £160.....  Does that represent good value?  I do like the idea of a proper (VAG) replacement boot handle and camera.

 

I'm not sure to be honest, but I just noticed that it was cheaper than the previous kit that was linked to in the thread. Not sure how it compares to buying from a dealer.

 

I am tempted to buy the kit, but have to do it when I am in the right frame of mind to wire it in.

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I'd imagine the hard bit is getting the cable from the tailgate through the wire 'tubing' back into the body.  As much as the proper kit seems expensive, I'd hope the quality might be better than a DIY collection of parts :S

 

Not really sure I want to start modifying either another handle, or cutting the tailgate to get something to fit, thus I might just take the hit on it!

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