Jump to content

Fabia Suddenly Stops, ECU Fuse Replaced, Now Won't Stop At All!


NeilTM

Recommended Posts


Hi, new here,

Fabia 55 plate 1.2 12valve 47kw petrol

My daughter's car switched its engine off without warning on a

roundabout. Car would crank, but no hint of any attempt to fire. Got it

towed home.

Mechanic checked the OBD for codes but could not recognise the presence

of an ECU, it appeared to be dead. However, I found the ECU 10amp fuse

had blown and so replaced it, after which the engine burst into instant

life, but ran noticeably lumpily on tickover. Very responsive to

throttle, reving smoothly. Tickover reading roughly 950ish rpm and

steady as normal, but engine rocking in its mountings - very uneven.

Now comes the weird part. Turning off the ignition, nothing changes,

engine continuing to run. Take key out altogether - still running, and

dash lights normal, no engine management warning light.

Stall engine in 5th with brakes on and remove fuse as only way to put out

the dashboard lights. Replacing fuse does not put the dash lights back

on until ignition switched on.

So the ignition switches on and the engine cranks, fires and runs (albeit

lumpily), but then will not switch off unless ECU fuse is removed.

Had the fuel pump and the ECU power supply relays out from behind the

facia, and tested them with a multimeter for open circuit between pins 30

and 87, then applied 12v positive to pin 86 and negative to 85 while

measuring continuity between pins 30 and 87 and observing the circuit

closing, so the relays appear to check out. Haven't yet checked out if

the ignition switch might be the source of failure to break the ignition

circuit, but will hopefully try to test that tomorrow. However, it seems

unlikely that any such ignition switch failure could be responsible for

the lumpy tickover which was not present before the sudden failure.

Apart from the car having completed a couple of decent journeys in dry

weather a few days before conking locally, this came out of the blue,

there having been no recent work of any kind on the car, nor any issues.

The obvious question being what could the fault(s) be?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Which number fuse is it that you've replaced?

 

Sounds to me like there must be an ignition switch fault, and it seems a little improbable that there'd be another simultaneously occurring fault, but I could very well be wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're not the first person: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/416613-ignition-switch-fault-or-immobiliser-fault/

If you can get access to the ignition switch and can remove the wiring and continuity test the various pins in each key position, that will probably tell you if the switch is faulty.

Not the easiest part to work on though, to remove it you'd need the steering wheel off, might be able to inspect with it still attached though (not tried myself).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Which number fuse is it that you've replaced?

 

Sounds to me like there must be an ignition switch fault, and it seems a little improbable that there'd be another simultaneously occurring fault, but I could very well be wrong.

It's fuse 14. 

 

I could do with a convincing theory as to why or how an ignition switch fault could cause the lumpy tickover running.  It doesn't seem improbable that another fault could have been caused by whatever was responsible for cutting the engine, or maybe simply another symptom of it.  Reading about other cars on other forums with similar problems I'm wondering if there might be a short in the wiring somewhere that could have produced these symptoms?  Something is spoiling the tickover.  I haven't attempted to drive the car as I don't want another sudden death more than 100 yards away from home, plus I don't wish to tempt a dual mass flywheel failure by over exercising it with the rough running.  So I don't know if revs equate to useable power or not.

 

Thanks for reply,    Neil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I must admit that it's confusing, but fuse 14 is fed by the ignition switch, so should not be able to supply current to anything with ignition off. It is, however, one of two sources of current for the coil of the ECU relay, via an internal diode.  I'm wondering what would happen if this diode inside the relay failed short-circuit?  Try 'diode measurement' on your multimeter between pins 86 and 86a on the relay in position 12 of the relay panel?  86a should not be able to feed current back out to 86

.

This car doesn't have a DMF as far as I know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're not the first person: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/416613-ignition-switch-fault-or-immobiliser-fault/

If you can get access to the ignition switch and can remove the wiring and continuity test the various pins in each key position, that will probably tell you if the switch is faulty.

Not the easiest part to work on though, to remove it you'd need the steering wheel off, might be able to inspect with it still attached though (not tried myself).

Thanks for this.  The thread you cite makes the job sound like a nightmare, and unfortunately we don't know what the conclusion was.  I also don't know how to test the ignition switch assuming I can gain access?  What seems certain about the switch is that it makes contact in the two positions since the dash lights come on, then it starts normally.  If the power is continuing after switch off because of the switch not breaking the ignition current, BUT removing power from the circuit by removing the fuse results in the switch returning to open circuit, then testing the switch with wiring removed and the switch appearing to test out OK for continuity would be the expected result (because that is what it is doing), ie. that the switch is OK based on that test.  This would leave me still wondering if the switch could be failing to break a current, because there's a current present which is somehow preventing it from breaking? Is that possible?  Sorry if that was convoluted!  Perhaps a more likely explanation is that there is a short in the wiring somewhere through abrasion, damp or dirt or similar, leaking power into the circuit?  Not going to have much time for this today, but will take the relay out again to do a switched load test through it to see if it breaks a decent current from a car kettle perhaps. 

 

I want to read the fault codes now the ECU has come back to life, but can't afford to keep paying a mechanic to come out.  I have an ELM 327 OBD2 interface that links OBD2 socket to laptop via USB.  With hindsight it is probably a cheap Chinese clone, (it was from ebay), and so far I have failed to get any software to speak to the ECU on my own car apart from a demo of Scanmaster ELM which generously gives only the front half of the codes :-( But at least that tells me it will speak to an ECU. We have a linux and a WIndows 7 laptop, but open source programmes I've tried won't talk to the ECU.  If anyone knows of a free software solution for these devices that works, it would be much appreciated. 

 

Thanks,    Neil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the diode within the ECU relay is allowing current both ways, then the ECU could be bypassing the ignition switch by sending current back through fuse 14 the wrong way and powering other stuff?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I must admit that it's confusing, but fuse 14 is fed by the ignition switch, so should not be able to supply current to anything with ignition off. It is, however, one of two sources of current for the coil of the ECU relay, via an internal diode.  I'm wondering what would happen if this diode inside the relay failed short-circuit?  Try 'diode measurement' on your multimeter between pins 86 and 86a on the relay in position 12 of the relay panel?  86a should not be able to feed current back out to 86

.

This car doesn't have a DMF as far as I know.

Ah, thank you for this.  Using the diode setting on my multimeter, a closed circuit reads regardless of which way round the leads are applied.  Does this mean that the diode will invariably be short circuit regardless of current?  If this is indeed a fault, then how might I test your 'stab in the dark' as to cause?  Are we definitely looking for a cause of the diode failure, or can they just 'go'?

 

Something that didn't properly register with me yesterday, but I noticed again today, that upon removal of the relay it was slightly warm!  That's with not having been out to the car today at all, and fuse 14 pulled since yesterday.  So something is feeding it current!  The other relays are cold.

 

You seem to be right that there is no DMF on this model, and this was a false assumption on my part.

 

Which means, hopefully, that I can safely wait as sepulchrave suggests for the tickover to settle down once the switching fault is resolved.

 

Unless of course I am running on 2 cylinders out of the 3, hence the lumpy tickover, but this smooths out when revved without load?  Look for a wet spark plug perhaps?

 

Thank you both very much for your help so far.  Hopefully we are getting somewhere.

 

Neil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure how one might test the coilpack failure causing diode failure theory except to read fault codes with something while the ECU is in a sociable mood. Even if there is a faulty coilpack, it would be hard to prove that it had indeed caused any consequential damage to such a diode.  If one has failed, that one's not going to cause any more spikes I guess. Always worth checking the spark plug state before replacing one of these, in my opinion.

 

I would probably replace the ECU relay, or even open it up and replace just the diode if it were me. Then see what happens with starting and stopping the engine with the key, then investigate any remaining issues with tickover stability.

Edited by Wino
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're not the first person: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/416613-ignition-switch-fault-or-immobiliser-fault/

If you can get access to the ignition switch and can remove the wiring and continuity test the various pins in each key position, that will probably tell you if the switch is faulty.

Not the easiest part to work on though, to remove it you'd need the steering wheel off, might be able to inspect with it still attached though (not tried myself).

I asked on the above thread what happened and got an answer if anyone is interested.  I've asked what he had to replace to cure the fault. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure how one might test the coilpack failure causing diode failure theory except to read fault codes with something while the ECU is in a sociable mood. Even if there is a faulty coilpack, it would be hard to prove that it had indeed caused any consequential damage to such a diode.  If one has failed, that one's not going to cause any more spikes I guess. Always worth checking the spark plug state before replacing one of these, in my opinion.

 

I would probably replace the ECU relay, or even open it up and replace just the diode if it were me. Then see what happens with starting and stopping the engine with the key, then investigate any remaining issues with tickover stability.

That sounds like a plan, thank you, I'll let you know how I get on.  I'll buy a new relay, but might repair the old one and leave it in the car in case it feels like doing this all over again!

 

NeilTM

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had the ht coil assemblies off the spark plugs, but testing coil continuity has thrown up the strangest anomalies I don't begin to understand.

 

On the 200ohm range:

The only pins of the 4 pin connectors I could obtain a resistance reading from were 1 and 4.  All other combos were open circuit.

 

I tested the coil pack from no. 3 cylinder first and got a reading of 145ohms

 

Then I tested it again and got a reading of 80 to 90 ohms

 

Testing no. 2 I got 90

 

Testing no.1 I got 33 to 35ohms

 

I then immediately moved back to testing no. 2 and got 36ohms

 

Quickly followed by testing no.3 again which read 37.

 

So all three ended up reading within an ohm of each other @ 35 to 37

 

Given the variations in readings I tested both my multimeters, measuring each others battery voltage which was 8.7 in both cases.  I tested the leads, including the croc leads I was attaching to the recessed pins in the coil pack socket.  All OK.

 

Then I tested all 3 coil packs again and got no reading whatsoever from any of them!  Repeatedly and over time.  Apparently all now suddenly open circuit, except how can they be?

 

So at one, arguably two passes they seemed at least consistent.  For some reason I didn't immediately test no. 1, so never got the higher first readings from it.

 

I have no idea what is going on?

 

 

I have also opened the relay.  It is impossible to see the diode, and even to change the resistor I think the entire assembly would need all points desoldering and taking off its base, and I'm not feeling very confident about that.

 

All looks clean and OK inside, no smell or visible signs of burning except some rather strange looking solder points on the back of two of the pins where wires come off the back end of the plug blades.   Inside, pin 85 forks at the end and two seperate wires come off it, despite the wiring diagram on the cover denoting only 1.  The right hand wire has a nicely flowed solder joint, but the left has no visible solder at all, and only a brass coloured blob.  Also, the fork in this connection point where the wire rests between is shorter on one side where the blob of brass coloured metal is.  This suggests to me that the it got hot enough to melt metal at the point of connection and burn away some of the blade metal at the attachment point.  There is one other connection which looks like this and it is 86.  In total there are 4 such solder joints, two which look melted and two which look like normal good solder joints.  I have some reasonable photos of the good and 'bad'? joints, but not sure how best to share them?  Between these two points are the coil and the resistor in parrallel with it.  The coil wires are attached to their posts and read 146 ohms between them.  Is it possible that a brazed or welded joint has been used instead of solder because of heat issues?  These points are well attached, they are just not solder joints.

 

Why don't I just buy a new relay and try it?   So far we have found only one place that actually stocks them online and nowhere locally.  The cost is 8 to 9 pounds and delivery by next wednesday.  Meanwhile I'm not achieving any degree of confidence that the cause of the demise of the relay, if indeed it is faulty, has been discovered, and that therefore it could simply fry the new one either immediately or at some near point.

 

I've now checked all the earth points with a meter, and taking one apart.  Everything clean and lovely.  Examined visible wiring but nothing found.

 

I don't have a yard long plug spanner, so have not been able to look at the spark plug electrodes and the coil packs have not so far incentivised me to do so.

 

Not waving but drowning,   Neil

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The polarity of your probes may affect the readings on pins 1-4, if the internal device(s) between those pins have semiconductor properties, as suggested by the schematic symbol. See whether you get different numbers with probes reversed?  I've sen approx. 400 Ohms suggested as a figure for pins 2 to 3, but pretty sure in the past when I've tried to measure this, it's pins 1 to 4 that show that value? 

 

I've got a spare coil or two at home I can measure later. 

 

Host pictures on somewhere like  photobucket or dropbox and then paste links into the Image icon just below the dropdown arrow for text colour.

Alternatively, for ease/convenience, email them to me at an address I'll PM to you and I'll pop them up for you.

 

Try your local TPS for relay availability, and check whether they will sell to Joe Public while you're on the phone. They're not supposed to, but several do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do all the coil packs look the same? Sometimes they form a bubble on top in the potting compound when the amp blows and can short the ecu blowing the fuse. Maybe when cold the short goes away so now you just have a dead coil. Try disconnecting all the coil packs and see if the ignore still stays on then?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As mentioned by email, pins 1-4 of my spare pencil coil measure 390 Ohms at outside temperature, and this doesn't change at all with probe polarity.

 

Pictures as sent through:

 

pin85.jpg

 

 

pin86%20to%20coil%20winding.jpg

 

Quite possible that those melty-looking bits are normal wire 'welds', I'd say.

 

Is there a VAG part number on the outside of the relay somewhere?  1J0906381?

'429' in big font on the end?

Edited by Wino
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quite possible that those melty-looking bits are normal wire 'welds', I'd say.

 

OK, I was moving towards favouring that idea, not that it makes any sense to me.  Might try to find a scrap relay to see if I can find similar.

 

Is there a VAG part number on the outside of the relay somewhere?  1J0906381?

'429' in big font on the end?

 

Yes, that's the beast.

 

Thanks for posting the pictures.

 

Neil

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do all the coil packs look the same? Sometimes they form a bubble on top in the potting compound when the amp blows and can short the ecu blowing the fuse. Maybe when cold the short goes away so now you just have a dead coil. Try disconnecting all the coil packs and see if the ignore still stays on then?

 

They all look very clean.  One top seems verrry slightly flatter than the very slightly concave others, but nothing resembling a bubble if I probe it. Struggling to believe the difference is significant. Sorry, but what is the 'amp' you speak of?   All three coils were long cold when I took them off the engine, and all three have been reading the same.  They can't all be dead though because the engine runs.  Will try a new battery in the multimeter when the day wakes up.  Still trying to find a software for the ELM327 interface that works with it.  Anyone know of any good reasonable priced alternative devices that will read all codes from the variety of vehicles in the family it is my fate to fettle?  We have a fiesta, fabia, vectra and doblo, the vectra sharing the same 1.9jtd engine as the doblo, and the future of the fabia looking decidely uncertain!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The amp is built in to the coil pack and they go wrong.

It takes the ecu about 20 seconds to relearn idle values so if it still seems very lumpy it's other the ecu still learning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The amp is built in to the coil pack and they go wrong.

It takes the ecu about 20 seconds to relearn idle values so if it still seems very lumpy it's other the ecu still learning.

 

Thanks.

It is raining and dark now so can't go out to check, but assuming it is easy enough to remove the wiring from individual injectors, can anyone see a problem with the following procedure for establishing if I have a cylinder not firing or misfiring?:

1.    Put everything back together and check that engine will fire and run (lumpily) as before.  If so:

2.    Remove injector wiring from one cylinder, restart engine.  If no difference, then suspect having found a non firing cylinder.  Repeat test with other two cylinders.

3.    If a suspect cylinder has been found, swap coil packs round with one of the other two and the suspect one and see if the fault moves such that removing the injector wiring to that cylinder makes no or the same difference.

This would test a cylinder not working or poorly performing, and if no difference was detected other than moving the faulty cylinder by the coil pack substitution then a fault on the fuel injection side could be ruled out, placing the focus purely on the ignition side. It would also tend to exonerate a faulty plug if that were the cause, zoning in on an individual coil pack which could then be replaced. Or vice versa of course depending on whether the faulty cylinder was movable in that way.

I have been looking up inductive ignition testers, and inline devices that flash a light if there is HT going to the plug.  Other more expensive devices have induction probes which are placed on top of the individual coil that light two separate LEDs, one measuring adequate HT, the other adequate duration of spark.  The latter devices seem possibly dubious in that the only review I could find the guy said it was oversensitive and picked up all 8 of his Jaguar v8 cylinders at the same time.  Anyway, I can't even try to purchase anything until Monday and daughter getting impatient now, so this beautiful relationship I have had with her Fabia all week may come to a sad end unless I make some real progress.

Apart from possibly putting up a fresh batch of fault codes I still can't read, might I upset the artificial beligerence (ECU) or anything else by conducting such an experiment?  I'm basing it on an adaptation of a similar procedure I found here, which would tend to suggest it might be OK to do: <http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.6L-5.4L/coil-on-plug-misfire-tests-2>

On a three pot engine I hardly think I need worry about measuring vacuum!

However, a possible 4.    is that the test shows no difference between the three cylinders on whether or not it starts, or how it runs if it does start.  In which case I can put the ignition back together and forget about suspect coils altogether, the focus moving to goodness knows what as the cause to hopefully be discovered by an auto electrician.  

I'm trying to avoid simply stumping up for a new relay and trying that, because best case scenario if it didn't immediately fry might be the car running apparently normally, but an undiscovered underlying cause remaining to take a second bite out of her another day. I've already read one such report. Engine switching off without warning in the middle of heavy traffic, and there is no other sort where we live, is not acceptable safety, but the conscienceless car manufacturers seem to have inflicted such Russian roulette on us all anyway, my family having suffered this twice this year now.  (Mine was a failed crankshaft sensor).

Cheers,   Neil

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That investigative strategy sounds fine, and I wouldn't worry about any aftereffects on anything.

 

Injector wiring is straightforward to unplug I think.

 

For possibly more wide availability at lower cost than genuine, Febi 37563 seems to be a drop-in equivalent for the relay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

May be an idea to search for VCDS-owning members near you who might be willing to plug in and interrogate your car for a beer token or two?

You're a bit far from me, but there must be some nearer you. Start here: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That investigative strategy sounds fine, and I wouldn't worry about any aftereffects on anything.

 

Injector wiring is straightforward to unplug I think.

 

For possibly more wide availability at lower cost than genuine, Febi 37563 seems to be a drop-in equivalent for the relay.

 

We went out for the day today and had a nice time, and I'm glad we did because it saved me from feeling too grumpy when on returning I conducted the above tests as intended.  They didn't take long, but were totally inconclusive and I can't make any sense of them.

 

To begin with the test seemed to be revealing something.  Put the car back togther and tested it, and it returned the same lumpy running as before.  Removed numbers 1 and then 2, and then 3 injector wiring plugs, replacing the one before each time.. With the first two cylinders disconnected (one after the other) the car just turned over with no hint of attempting to fire which I imagined might be the case if that meant only one pot out of 3 working, although logically for the test to have validity and not imply encountering a disable routine based on detection of disconnection of one injector there should have been a noticeable firing even of the one cylinder.  Disconnected no 3 and it ran just as it had with all 3 connected, and with instant starting.  Suggesting that coil or plug suspect on no 3 cylinder.  Clearly it must have been running on 2 cylinders at this point, and was running no different from all 3 connected.

 

Swapped 2 and 3 coil packs round and repeated the test with no 3 injector still disconnected.  If no 3 coil was suspect, then the engine should have run this time only with number 2 cylinder disconnected, but it again ran with no. 3 still disconnected.  Logically this is suggestive of a faulty no 3 plug and exonerates the coil.  Thereafter the test descends into incomprehensibility.  With no 2 disconnected this time, it also still fires and runs.  Only no 1 cylinder which hasn't had coil packs swapped remains at no starting with its injector disconnected.

 

3rd pass:  Swapped the packs on 2 and 1 with each other and tested all 3 cylinders and this time it ran on all 3 with each disconnected in turn.

 

So the coil pack order started at 123, then 132, then 312.

 

At this point since nothing was making any sense I decided to see if a repeat of the first test would produce the same result.  It didn't.  Returning the coil packs to 123 and repeat disconnecting no 1 injector, this time it fired and ran whereas previously it had not fired.

 

In summary then, making coil swaps each pass:

 

First pass - runs with only pot 3 disconnected

 

Second pass - runs with pot 3 then pot 2 disconnected

 

Third pass - runs with all 3 disconnected in sequence

 

The only variable I can think of between the first and last test on pot 1 is that the engine will have got a bit hotter, but can't find anything relevant sounding temperature related that might account for this.

 

I spoke to my electronic engineer brother but he had no good news for me.  If the diode tests closed circuit it will be so at the working current rate, AND it will almost certainly have been killed by something, not simply died as a first cause in its own right.  He thinks the coils will be alright based on my  tests but would still want to look at the plugs.  He thinks it quite likely replacing the relay might cure the fault, but not the underlying cause which is likely to recur, possibly at a short interval, there's no way to know without knowing what it is.  He said that anyone you pay to come out and OBD it will simply want to replace whatever the codes point to, but this may not cure the primary cause of the failure.

 

I asked him about OBD readers, not having mnaged to find one on ebay , amazon or anywhere else that didn't have too many consistent reason one star ratings, and he said his searches had faired no better and were why he's never bought anything.

 

It would seem that the car manufacturers might have committed the perfect crime, aided and abetted by an aftermarket of sub standard testers.

 

Might have one last push at getting the device I bought that said it would read all fault codes to actually read any fault codes, and risk popping a cheap relay if I can find one locally, unless I might be allowed to test a new one for a working diode before purchase.  If a new one returned the same result as mine there would be no point in the purchase as no credible reason to suspect existing relay.

 

Thanks for sticking with it/me for this long, I'm just not sure how much longer I'm going to stick with it.

 

Best wishes,   Neil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the codes read and then cleared, then re-read with engine running today.  Four beginning 16... fairly certainly caused by mucking about with injector wiring, then another five the mechanic put down probably to the engine running on after the ignition had been turned off as they all begin "data bus powertrain missing message from...." - things like air con, air bag, abs. This has to be the engine running on after ignition turned off and key removed. The interesting codes are as follows:

 

17909 "fuel pump relay circuit, short to ground" (now cleared and hasn't recurred).   This sounds as if it could be a possible contendor for spiking the relay and short circuiting its diode, if that has actually happened.  We should have a replacement coming Wed or Thur, but I now have confirmed by the mechanic what my electronic engineer brother said would not be the case, that he reckons to have experienced test meter current passing both ways through such diodes, which functioned properly under normal load conditions.  He spoke of it passing a small current both ways.  Who is right I have no idea.  It would not make my jaw drop to see apparent closed circuit on the multimeter diode test of the new relay when it comes.  Stay tuned for next weeks thrilling episode of this whatdunnit.  Anyway, we need to do a very serious visual inspection of the wiring associated with the fuel pump circuit if we are to solve this murder mystery.

 

65535 internal control module memory error   This code only appeared after the others had been cleared.  Mechanic speculated that the ECU had run out of memory space to store any more codes, LOL!  I have an old NOKIA phone like that.

 

But we solved the uneven tickover and sluggish return to tickover from revving and general 'hunting'.   You might want to pour yourself a strong drink for this bit.  The mechanic found that the brake servo pipe from the engine to the servo, which has a one way valve in the middle of it and therefore there are 4 pipe unions in total - all the pipes were split where they join!  Clearly this can only be down to defective material in manufacture.  He was really shocked, and said quite rightly that this should have been subject to a recall.  Well, not only hasn't it been according to the gvt web site, the fact that it needs to be is confirmed from the fact that other models have been recalled for exactly this fault on the equivalent pipe!  From the gvt web site listing recalls:

 

Octavia  Sept 98 to June 99  "Tension cracks may occur in the vacuum pipe to the brake servo in the area of the pipe connections due to a manufacturing fault.  If a vacuum pipe leaks, the brake servo loses its function. Without servo assistance a lot more force must be used on the pedal.  But this will not lead to total failure of the brake system."

 

Same recall about that time for same fault on the Bora and Golf, and 5 models of SEAT including the Ibiza.  But nothing for Fabia from any date despite it clearly being exactly the same problem of material failure of the plastic at all four pipe unions on this pipe (there is a central one way valve in the line).  Clearly there should be a recall error covering the 2005 Fabia at least, and we will attempt to discover why there isn't and get one issued.   Meanwhile can someone advise me whether I just need to start a new thread, or start one in a different place to warn owners of this potential problem ahead of any such official notice?  This has shocked my daughter's mother somewhat that she could have suffered a complete loss of servo through defective manufacture.  The indifference in the understatement  in the above quote about the brakes needing more pressure should be apparent to anyone who has ever tried to brake a car with the engine off. The difference is massive, and unassisted braking potential negligible unless you are Jeff Capes. The statement itself we found shocking.  The first time I ever experienced this combined with the loss of steering servo, was a feeling like vertigo and panic at the ground opening up underneath my feet!  What is really shocking is that the same potentially lethal fault found on 98 to 99 models in 2005, has apparently been inadequately investigated to catch the same fault in a 2005 model, suggesting that these defective pipes quite probably have been fitted in the intervening 7 year period!

 

Our mechanic taped the thing up, not as a repair obviously, but to check the effect of the idle lumpiness and running and it cured it.  The fault could have been exacerbated by our hands investigating looking for sensors in the vicinity, and might explain the Q why now, but the pipe had clearly lost integrity for splits to be present at all four unions, we were not that cack handed.

 

Check your servo pipes guys!  Our mechanic was straight off round to another of his clients with a same age Fabia to check hers after he left us.

 

Jeez!

 

Neil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.