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2011 L&K buying tips?


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Hi all,

 

It's time I got myself a new(er) car, so I'm going to be looking at an Octavia 1.8 Laurin & Klement hatch this week, 2011 model. I'm busy trawling my way through the forum posts looking for common problems etc, is there any recommended reading and things to look out for when buying an Octavia of this age?

 

Thanks,

 

Chris.

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Thanks for replying. I've been having a good read of the sticky threads, is the 1.8 considered to be more reliable than the 2.0? Seem to be a few less failures on the 1.8?

 

Should I be put off getting a TSI, is the failure rate that high or is it a relatively small number of ruined engines in the grand scheme of the number of cars sold?

 

I've been rather spoiled by years of trouble free motoring from my bullet proof, if somewhat "agricultural" Rover 45 diesel :D

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Picked up a low mileage1.8tsi dsg last year and I think it's one of the best cars I've ever had. Smooth and quiet, yet marches on when required.  I knew about potential issues before buying so made sure I got a long warranty. I keep the oil at max and will change it every year or 6k. I listen carefully every time I start it too. Luckily I just use this as a long distance driver. Had a Mondeo TDCI before this and it took me a while to get used to the noise - lack of!

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I myself have a 1.8TSi L&K, had it since late feb/march and am very impressed (although had an 07 plate 2.0 pd tdi elagance before,) when doing an oil change change from 5w30 fully synthetic to 5w40 fully synthetic, the oil consumption is a lot less. the 5w30 is only for long life or veriable service regime.

 

I recently had a holiday in north norfolk and had 5 adults in the car (including myself) and six people's luggage (one of my family went up on his honda CBR600,) the trip from my house is 142 miles and the MPG was around 47-48mpg at a steady 75-80mph cruise, with the climate control on all the way.

 

The 1.8 TSi is a wolf in sheep's clothing, it can amble along at low rev's but drop a gear and floor the throttle and it's a stonker of an  engine with a very gutsy torque curve and bags of power, the turbo spools up very quickly, but for my taste the engine needs a little bit more sound to it (and i mean just a little), very quite thing it is.

 

Try and get an L&K with the columbus head unit fitted as that has DAB and satnav, i have the bolero unit which is good, but is missing the DAB, satnav and bluetooth.

 

Avoid the light colour paints as well these cars look better in my opinion in the darker colours, Black magic pearl is the best but a bugger to keep clean.

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8 hours ago, Ju1ian1001 said:

 

Try and get an L&K with the columbus head unit fitted as that has DAB and satnav, i have the bolero unit which is good, but is missing the DAB, satnav and bluetooth.

 

 

 

Not all Columbus have DAB, and a 2011 one probably won't. Bluetooth is fitted to the car also, not included in the head unit (possible exception certain Amundsen + models).

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The ad says it has a bolero, which means very little to me at the moment :D

 

I suppose if I find the headunit lacking, in the future I can upgrade it to a newer Columbus one? Will it require coding? I'm seeing VCDS mentioned a lot on here lol.

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I've owned a 60 plate 1.8 L&K for 18 months now, mines now on 76K. My engine was swapped due to timing chain fail at 37K, (before i owned it,) so now has a late my13 engine.

Be very wary of timing chain failures for original engines in this age group of the car. 

If the timing chain gear is still original, then it may be worth getting the latest tensioners etc fitted, this is a garage job unless you are really really keen. I wouldn't attempt it personally.

If it has the original tensioners then try and negotiate the buying price to include this work.

 

Apart from that, then all the above info applies especially fully synthetic oil 5w40 and regular 6Kish changes.

 

If you do all this you will own an excellently comfortable luxurious sleeper motor ;)

 

Edited by promethian
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1 hour ago, promethian said:

I've owned a 60 plate 1.8 L&K for 18 months now, mines now on 76K. My engine was swapped due to timing chain fail at 37K, (before i owned it,) so now has a late my13 engine.

Be very wary of timing chain failures for original engines in this age group of the car. 

If the timing chain gear is still original, then it may be worth getting the latest tensioners etc fitted, this is a garage job unless you are really really keen. I wouldn't attempt it personally.

If it has the original tensioners then try and negotiate the buying price to include this work.

 

Apart from that, then all the above info applies especially fully synthetic oil 5w40 and regular 6Kish changes.

 

If you do all this you will own an excellently comfortable luxurious sleeper motor ;)

 

Luxury sleeper is what I'm after!

 

Is there any info on changing the tensioners/timing gear? I did the timing belts on my Rover twice (easy), and the clutch (hard) so I'm not averse to getting right stuck in if required :D

 

I'll definitely be having a good nose through the service history and haggling accordingly though.

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The older superseded version(s) of the tensioner are subject to unpredictable failure and my suggestion is you would really want to factor in replacement with timing chain and ancillaries for some piece of mind. Or a watertight warranty, if such a thing exists.  The tensioner is identical to the 2.0 EA888 CCZA type engines, so susceptibility is exactly the same.  Lots of detail in the sticky in terms of part detail and prices but factor £600 ballpark from an independent.

 

If anything, I would say we see more 1.8TSI with extreme oil usage past this forum than 2.0TSIs. Maybe because they are in more abundance in the Oct II than vRS models. As you can see from respondents to this thread though,  it doesn't seem to catch everyone.

 

Time and distance based oil changes THROUGHOUT vehicle lifetime, may help prevent the clogging of the oil control rings but it is a poor design which requires extensive part list and labour to rebuild and put right. Again, there is a lot of detail throughout the sticky with TPIs and replacement pistons parts and so on.

 

 

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Is there an easy way to tell if the car has had a new engine? Any identifying marks in the engine bay that would give it away?

 

I see the "telltale" (that may or may not be present) of the engine about to lunch itself a rattle on startup due to a loose chain, is there any way to tell if it's using oil without monitoring it over a longer period of time?

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23 minutes ago, chrisund123 said:

Is there an easy way to tell if the car has had a new engine? Any identifying marks in the engine bay that would give it away?

 

In my case there was no evidence in the service manual, and the dealer didn't highlight or supply any relevant information.

Its very possible for a subsequent owner to have no idea that the engine has been replaced.

 

The tell tale signs of a new engine, are lots of engine parts stamped with a later MY than the  MY of the car, for example inlet manifold plasticky bits etc.

Then of course you could always ask Skoda UK... they may tell you.

Edited by promethian
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OK, so I've seen it!

 

It's nice. Engine was warm when I got there, started up without lunching itself and no nasty noises. There was oil in the sump and no signs of smoke so hopefully that's a sign it's not using too much.

 

Aircon was cold... No MOT though so I said I'd pop back once it had passed the test (and after I've had a nose through its MOST history now I have the reg!)

 

One question though, what's going on with the bottom of the bonnet? Should it have some sound deadening or something? Looks like something has been scraped off.

IMG_20170912_170638.jpg

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30 minutes ago, chrisund123 said:

OK, so I've seen it!

 

It's nice. Engine was warm when I got there, started up without lunching itself and no nasty noises. There was oil in the sump and no signs of smoke so hopefully that's a sign it's not using too much.

 

Aircon was cold... No MOT though so I said I'd pop back once it had passed the test (and after I've had a nose through its MOST history now I have the reg!)

 

One question though, what's going on with the bottom of the bonnet? Should it have some sound deadening or something? Looks like something has been scraped off.

IMG_20170912_170638.jpg

No sound insulation fitted to the underside of my bonnet, but as said in my previous post the 1.8TSi is very quite so does not need it, there is none on the tiny engine cover either. looking at the pic u posted something has scratched that bonnet, possibly tools left on the engine and the bonnet closed on top.

 

I've a car mechanic/mot tester/ technician for about 22 years and i would not change the timing chains's and tensioner's my self, i'll let a VW master tech do it as not an easy job.

 

If you go and have a second look make sure to start it from cold as when warm they don't tend to show any problems, i viewed about 4 or 5 before buying my current one.

Edited by Ju1ian1001
Added a sentence.
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It's quite strange about the scrape marks, as lots of them are underneath the stiffening bars - no sign of any corresponding marks on the engine or anything, and no sign of dents or bulges to suggest that the bonnet had been closed on any tools or something.

 

If I'm still interested after a few days of mulling it over and due diligence reading up I'll be taking another look, and I'll make sure the engine is cold (I'll turn up unannounced!)

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Those scratches are strange, can't think of anything that'll do that apart from a cat. I fitted a bonnet insulator to mine, only £25 or so and quietens an already quiet motor. Was the oil at max and a nice golden colour? Starting from cold is a must, I'd be a little bit dubious about a car pre warmed.

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Lack of 'smoke' does not mean it won't be using oil.  Mine was using a lot before engine was replaced but I never noticed any 'smoke'. 

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11 hours ago, Longship said:

Those scratches are strange, can't think of anything that'll do that apart from a cat. I fitted a bonnet insulator to mine, only £25 or so and quietens an already quiet motor. Was the oil at max and a nice golden colour? Starting from cold is a must, I'd be a little bit dubious about a car pre warmed.

 

I'm glad everyone else is as mystified by the scratches as i am. Think it would have to be a very large, angry cat to do that sort of damage... That said, I think if I was a cut trapped under the bonnet I'd be pretty angry though :D

 

Oil was full but to be honest it looks like it could do with a change. I think it was last serviced about a year ago, so I'll be using that to haggle if I do decide to proceed. I'm not overly concerned about why the engine was warm, it had genuinely just come back from being valeted and photographed... It wasn't hot, more "been driven a couple of hours ago" slightly warm, but I'll be making sure I see it start from stone cold before i commit to anything.

 

10 hours ago, Chris B said:

Those scratches, could they be where a dent removal specialist has 'pushed' dents out of the bonnet?

 

 

Possible I suppose, but it if it is then they did a bloody good job of it. I've attached a pic of the front of the car, bonnet looks flawless on the other side.

 

2 hours ago, Sarge said:

Lack of 'smoke' does not mean it won't be using oil.  Mine was using a lot before engine was replaced but I never noticed any 'smoke'. 

 

Agreed, but in lieu of driving the car for a few weeks and seeing if the level drops I can't think of anything else to look for before buying. Any tips greatly appreciated though!!

octavia.jpg

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3 minutes ago, pikpilot said:

Those bonnet scratches. Could they have been made by someone using an engine hoist without removing the bonnet?

 

Interesting idea... Some of the marks are under the stiffener bars though so I'm not sure a hoist would do that sort of damage.

 

I did have a look at the engine and there was a sticker on the timing chain cover that said feb 2011, so it looks like the original engine. No sign of a replacement engine in the (somewhat patchy) service history either.

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6 hours ago, chrisund123 said:

 

I'm glad everyone else is as mystified by the scratches as i am. Think it would have to be a very large, angry cat to do that sort of damage... That said, I think if I was a cut trapped under the bonnet I'd be pretty angry though :D

 

Oil was full but to be honest it looks like it could do with a change. I think it was last serviced about a year ago, so I'll be using that to haggle if I do decide to proceed. I'm not overly concerned about why the engine was warm, it had genuinely just come back from being valeted and photographed... It wasn't hot, more "been driven a couple of hours ago" slightly warm, but I'll be making sure I see it start from stone cold before i commit to anything.

 

 

Possible I suppose, but it if it is then they did a bloody good job of it. I've attached a pic of the front of the car, bonnet looks flawless on the other side.

 

 

Agreed, but in lieu of driving the car for a few weeks and seeing if the level drops I can't think of anything else to look for before buying. Any tips greatly appreciated though!!

octavia.jpg

 

Nice colour... whats the asking price?

 

Edited by promethian
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Detecting the oil usage problem, unfortunately,  in advance is a very difficult task in a private sale. Only way to mitigate to some degree is to source a car from a dealer with a return / exchange policy or extended test drive over a weekend and drive 600 miles!  Next to impossible to mitigate in a private sale.

 

I wouldn't focus on the bonnet scratches instead other aspects of the car, engine. Someone else suggested dent removal levers and that would be my best guess too for the bonnet. My bonnet has a heat mark from shrinking a dent under one of the reinforcing bars.  

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