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Dashcam Switched Power


John_S

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On 14/04/2018 at 07:55, solarfusion said:

Thanks that's useful. So were you able to hide the cable going up the A pillar without removing anything? Mine's a PCH so want to avoid damaging anything.

 

The lighter socket on my wife's Fabia II was always on too so I used two piggy back adapters to swap the power from a switched source instead. Must by a Skoda thing.

Well, I went to my Blade Skoda dealer, he got me a Nextbase car kit and installed it for £32. Not worth messing about as my Karoq is also PCH

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I was thinking.... as I would like mine running whilst I’m parked up and that. Could I buy a leaisure battery and run a front and rear camera off? Don’t really want to run the car battery down lol. 

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Modern VAG cars have active power management and will shutdown various functions as the battery gets lower. This is intended to protect the battery so that the car will 'always' start. Taking power off the accessory socket will mean it will be powered off when the battery needs protecting. You can get a neat hard wire from the fuse for the accessory sockets.

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  • 1 month later...
On 14/04/2018 at 22:21, John_S said:

 

Ours is PCH also so in the same boat. Don't want to damage anything and needs to be easy to remove when the car goes back. The cabling I just run along the door seal rubber, across the join at the top of the A pillar cover and then along the headlining at the top of the windscreen. No trim removal required. There's a little bit of cabling on show as it exits the fuse box but I'm not too bothered about it, see photo.

 

 

In this car I've installed a Mini0801, it's probably 3+ years old and still works, don't think they make them anymore! Just sticks to the windscreen with a sticky pad.

 

 

See photos, if you can afford a bit more time than I had you can probably install it a lot neater. As installed i doubt it would rattle or vibrate.

 

Included some more photos of the bits required for the installation.

 

IMG_20180414_123717a.jpg

IMG_20180414_123736a.jpg

IMG_20180414_123751a.jpg

IMG_20180414_160747a.jpg

IMG_20180414_161240a.jpg

Hi John. Good pictures. I'm looking to buy a piggyback fuse tap to install a dash cam the same way. Sorry if the answer is obvious but may I ask what type of fuse this is - micro, mini or something else? Thanks.

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1 hour ago, SizzlingPotato said:

Hi John. Good pictures. I'm looking to buy a piggyback fuse tap to install a dash cam the same way. Sorry if the answer is obvious but may I ask what type of fuse this is - micro, mini or something else? Thanks.

 

Cheers, pretty sure the fuse I used was a standard sized fuse, the blue 15AMP one in the photo of the fusebox.

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10 hours ago, John_S said:

 

Cheers, pretty sure the fuse I used was a standard sized fuse, the blue 15AMP one in the photo of the fusebox.

Would you mind posting a link where you bought your hardwire kit from? My dash cam uses a 'left' angled micro USB connector just like yours. Thanks!

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36 minutes ago, mattjames1980 said:

Matt, what do you then use to connect this wire to the usb cable that goes to the dash cam? I'm no electrician but John used a little transformer box with a what looks like a micro usb in his picture. I see there are kits that include the tap wire, transformer and micro usb. Are transformers needed to step down the voltage? Don't dash cams feed off 12 volts anyway when they alternatively plug into the cigarette lighter socket? Unless the ciggy plug steps down the voltage?

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Yeah used a dashcam hardwire kit...can't find the one I bought but this is similar and comes with a piggy back Dash Cam Hardwire Kit, Micro USB Port, DC 12V - 24V to 5V/2A Max Car Charger Cable kit With Fuse for Dashcam, Low Voltage Protection (Micro USB and Fuse Kit) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0791BHYBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ARjXBb0ERFWDF

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Most of these have a limit as well so will turn off if your battery is low and they're in "always live" location. If your camera has a parking mode they can come with two fuses. Just looking through pics now to find mine

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On 15/10/2018 at 14:51, mattjames1980 said:

Most of these have a limit as well so will turn off if your battery is low and they're in "always live" location. If your camera has a parking mode they can come with two fuses. Just looking through pics now to find mine

 

Matt, think I understand what I need now. Thanks a lot. Does the piggyback fuse holder slot into the fuse box a single way or is there a danger of putting it the wrong way round?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I also used the tips here from John_S, colinshead and the others that have posted and have successfully fitted a Hardware kit to my Karoq

I purchased a genuine Nextbase hardware kit from a popular online auction store, rather than a far-east equivalent as I wanted to makes sure there were no compatibility issues, etc.  The genuine kit from an approved Nextbase vendor on the auction site was half the price that a popular catalogue shop now part of a large supermarket would charge and worked really well.

The guides here were a great help and once the glove box was removed (the hardest part) the kit fitted well onto the mentioned Torq screw and fuse 47.  The cable run to the camera is quite tidy apart from the part where it goes across across the Dash at the bottom of the A-frame before going up the windscreen on the left between the glass and and trim, may tidy this up another day!

Thank-you again John_S, colinshead and everybody else who has contributed in this thread for a great guides and really clear instructions.

 

So now I have a Nextbase 312GW hard wired into my Karoq SEL :biggrin:

 

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Thank you for the guide. I will receive piggyback fuse tap soon and will try to wire my dashcam using guides from this thread. Have one question.

Did you check which side is + side (line side where 12V is) on fuse box? If you connect piggyback "wrong" way you will have 12V go dirrectly to dashcam, not via fuse.

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Personally I would want to know how the piggyback fuse works so belled it out, is pretty simple but came with no instructions.

 

It's not possible to have it so your dash cam isn't fused. You could however have the 2 fuses the wrong way round (not a good idea), Or have the piggy back tapped on the fused side of the original fuse (just means if the original fuse blows then there'd be no power to the dash cam).

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Are you sure? if you connect piggyback fuse side where wire comes out for dashcam on 12V side on fusebox, you will bypass fuse even if there is one in piggyback fuse adapter. Fuses are basically simple wire, which will burn if there is more current going on. There are no sides for fuses. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong.

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1 hour ago, Navip said:

Are you sure? 

 

Yes.

 

You cannot "bypass" any fuses with the piggy back fuse adaptors. See the attached photo for the circuit, apologies I scribbled it on my phone. Hopefully should make sense.

IMG_20181111_141915.jpg

 

EDIT: I see what you might mean, when I said the fuses the wrong way around I meant having the original fuse swapped with the piggy back fuse. So in my case I would have replaced the rear wiper fuse 15 amp with my dash cam fuse 1 amp. On the photo the original fuse would go in the lower slot and the dash cam fuse in the upper slot.

Edited by John_S
My bad english
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  • 1 month later...

Is this circuit gonna work ?

 

What i want is 2 things

 

1.Power the Cam When the Ignition switch is on

2.Whetever i need car park mode , switch ON manually. 

 

The only thing i dont know is what will happen if i swtich on the constant power with the ignition on . 

BOTH ON 

 

if there is a problem , i have to USE just a DPDT switch without the DIODES

 

18-12-2018 1-04-23 μμ.png

Edited by Tezaman
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