You should be really careful doing this. In this case it was helpful and identified the problem, but doubling the fuse rating could easily have meant that a wire burned instead. Even with a dead short somewhere, the wire might be too thin to immediately blow a 10A fuse, and instead would heat up the wire and never blow the fuse, just melt or worse. And yes, I have seen it happen!

2 hours ago, lowedb said:

but doubling the fuse rating could easily have meant that a wire burned instead

 

I second this, I know of several cars which literally burned with this being the issue, by the naive owners "solving" the simple issue of the fuse inexplicably blowing by putting a 2-3 times stronger fuse .... the electrical part of the car is designed with currents and various max loads in mind, and if it says 5 A, you don't put even a 7.5 A, because you could actually start a chain reaction and the extra load will go somewhere else, instead of the fuse, making that much more damage than intended ...

Sorry.... One last note on this topic....

 

After I blew up the air quality sensor (which allowed everything else to function properly again) - I decided to check the resistance on the load-side of the fuse and it has gone from 5 ohms up to 800-900 ohms ! Which looks better to me ! That seems much more like what I'd expect.

So with that in mind, I replaced the fuse with a 5 amp as it was originally, and all is well !

 

Steve

Sorry (again !) - just discovered that there was a second page to these posts !

 

I HAVE TO EMPHASIZE FURTHER THE IMPORTANCE OF WHAT lowedb and vborovic said earlier. FUSES ARE THERE FOR A REASON, AND THAT IS USUALLY TO PROTECT THE WIRING NOT NECESSARILY THE DEVICE ON THE END OF IT.

That is why I replaced the fuse with its original 5 amp rating.

 

They are absolutely 100% correct in pointing out that you should NEVER simply increase a fuse rating because the original blows. 

I am a qualified industrial electrician and was indeed anticipating seeing the magic smoke released from some part of the car (and was prepared with fire extinguishers if it came to the worst !) 

I had the fuse in place for about 1 second and I was lucky... it highlighted my problem without causing other catastrophes ! I do NOT condone increasing the fuse rating (in ANYTHING !) it never ends well !

What I did could have led to a disastrous melting of cables buried deep inside the loom, could have led to shorting other more powerful cables to ground and indeed a fire or battery explosion !

So "DONT TRY THIS AT HOME KIDS !"

 

I was lucky - and am grateful to everyone for their input.

Regards,

Steve 

Steve / all

 

I took a look at my air quality sensor (correct part number is 1K0907659, Steve you had a 9 missing in your earlier post)  earlier and not totally convinced it is or has been shorting. It looked a bit messy and had a sticky substance on it but I don't think melted or burnt. My mechanic said there were no errors showing after he did his stuff so I'm not sure if I have a dodgy one or not, but may replace anyway especially as my alarm siren is not working and the wiring are wrapped together! (I have another thread on that  ) And if replaced I can then change my fuse back down again

 

Anyway, the plastic cover over the airbox where the air quality sensor is seems to of been lost by my mechanic so I want to replace, struggling to confirm the part number to a picture and can only come up with  the below, can anyone confirm these are the correct parts numbers please?

 

3T2815159 - cover (multiple ending letters, mine is 2011, so guessing I need D, or has F superseded all of them??)

N 90732103 - Hex bolts (x2 required)

 

Thanks

Andy, try leaving the air quality sensor disconnected, and see if it now tolerates a 5A fuse instead of a 7.5A?

I think you want the suffix D part for the cover according to the date ranges here for item 38 rhd. But that has been superseded to suffix E see: https://oemwolf.com/oem-parts/3t2815159d.html#replacements

Which doesn't seem to supersede to anything else; so I suspect the suffix F may not fit your car.

 

Hi Wino, cheers for that and good point, I'll give it a try with the sensor disconnected

 

That is a little more informative with the superseded part number, I was using http://www.realoem.me/Skoda/CZ/SUP/2011/632/R/8/823/823010 this site which just lists all the possible part numbers and doesn't always show which has been replaced etc....

 

Many thanks

 

 

Hi guys !

Andy - if you have a mechanic with relevant diagnostic software telling you that all is OK then it probably is... After I blew up my sensor and reconnected everything that I had disconnected, the only fault which returns all the time is "air quality sensor open circuit" - so I guess if yours was trashed you would probably be getting a similar error.

Yup - apologies for any confusion - you were correct in pointing out that I missed a 9 from the part number -I've ordered myself a second hand one from ebay just to try and keep the fault codes away (I don't think the air quality sensor works very well anyway !). So I don't really care if it works as long as it doesn't fault or set my car on fire !  (at least now if my Fuse #4 blows I know the FIRST place I will be looking !)

 

Sorry I cant help with the black cover part number - but I would heartily recommend you have one (or at least SOMETHING to help prevent water ingress - even if its a load of black gaffa tape !)

 

 

 

Edited 13 August, 20187 yr by steveja2

Hi I'm new to the forum and just seen this thread, I have a 2015 superb 2.0tdi estate and the fuse set up is exactly the same as in your image. My A/C isn't working and the manual says check the fuse first which according to the fuse assignment is No 16 but as in the photo there is no fuse in position 16 can anyone help with this Thanks