11 hours ago, facet edge said:

I hope that's just the remains of polish behind the back door.

 

not sure exactly wat ur referring to, but there is no polish anywhere as i've never used polish.  don't have any infact.

 

if anything, the "blemish" or "remains" r simply reflections of objects in my garage.

8 hours ago, JR RS said:

 

not sure exactly wat ur referring to, but there is no polish anywhere as i've never used polish.  don't have any infact.

 

if anything, the "blemish" or "remains" r simply reflections of objects in my garage.

Sorry, looking closer I can now see it's a reflection.

Looks like a naked BMW to me...

Today I changed the oil and filter in the DSG gearbox. First time! Not that difficult. Access to the gearbox filter only required removing the big hose from airbox to manifold, none of the other stuff such as airbox or battery.

 

You do need a means to measure gearbox oil temperature (VCDS) but otherwise no special tools. I just used some silicone pipe of the right diameter pushed up the level pipe and a small Draper oil pump to fill it with the fresh oil.

 

Hardest bit was probably raising the car enough to get underneath it whilst keeping it level.

 

Oil and filter cost about £120 so not that much cheaper than the garage doing it, but at least I know it’s been done properly!

Edited 12 September, 20196 yr by nicknorman

20 hours ago, nicknorman said:

Today I changed the oil and filter in the DSG gearbox. First time! Not that difficult. Access to the gearbox filter only required removing the big hose from airbox to manifold, none of the other stuff such as airbox or battery.

 

You do need a means to measure gearbox oil temperature (VCDS) but otherwise no special tools. I just used some silicone pipe of the right diameter pushed up the level pipe and a small Draper oil pump to fill it with the fresh oil.

 

Hardest bit was probably raising the car enough to get underneath it whilst keeping it level.

 

Oil and filter cost about £120 so not that much cheaper than the garage doing it, but at least I know it’s been done properly!

 

Top work Nick! Well done sir.

My original Vega 19" alloys have been kerbed a few times (mainly by my dear wife), which I was able to get repaired under my alloy wheel insurance policy. However, on the last occasion, I sent them off for repair, and there wasn't enough metal left to diamond cut them again. They said they could either attempt to re-cut them and fill and paint the bits that were too thin around the edges, or chemically strip them to get rid of the diamond cut finish and repaint them any colour I wanted, which would allow me to have a standard Smart repair at home next time, rather than have to send them off to be re-cut. I chose this option, and went for a gloss black finish. Just put them back on tonight (had my winters on for a couple of weeks temporarily), and here is the result. I'm pretty pleased with them, and actually prefer them to the original diamond cut finish. I will never willingly buy diamond cut wheels again - such a pain to repair! Refurb done by Automotive Repair Systems in Kent (UK).

20 minutes ago, plantpowered said:

My original Vega 19" alloys have been kerbed a few times (mainly by my dear wife), which I was able to get repaired under my alloy wheel insurance policy. However, on the last occasion, I sent them off for repair, and there wasn't enough metal left to diamond cut them again. They said they could either attempt to re-cut them and fill and paint the bits that were too thin around the edges, or chemically strip them to get rid of the diamond cut finish and repaint them any colour I wanted, which would allow me to have a standard Smart repair at home next time, rather than have to send them off to be re-cut. I chose this option, and went for a gloss black finish. Just put them back on tonight (had my winters on for a couple of weeks temporarily), and here is the result. I'm pretty pleased with them, and actually prefer them to the original diamond cut finish. I will never willingly buy diamond cut wheels again - such a pain to repair! Refurb done by Automotive Repair Systems in Kent (UK).

 And a side by side comparison. A bit grubby, but you get the idea.

Know what you mean about the diamond cut I actually prefer my 18" winter wheels finish (Gun Metal Grey) to my 19" alloys on my Vrs245.

@plantpowered They look fantastic! I had diamond cut alloys on a Golf gti and they made me very nervous. Especially when I smacked a kerb at 40mph with one 🤣 That was an expensive day....

 

I think they look great against the dragon skin and black trim of the Sportline 😎

Went to my local Skoda dealer where I was informed that they had a face lift L&K in business grey, exactly the same as mine. Loved the small mods, lights,grill,virtual cockpit even the big Skoda letters on the rear look better in the flesh.

To cut a long story short should be collecting it next week.

3 minutes ago, panmat said:

Went to my local Skoda dealer where I was informed that they had a face lift L&K in business grey, exactly the same as mine. Loved the small mods, lights,grill,virtual cockpit even the big Skoda letters on the rear look better in the flesh.

To cut a long story short should be collecting it next week.

What engine has your new car got and congrats it looks great?

I Had the 220tsi lovely engine, not available anymore. The new one is the 190tsi

Edited 14 September, 20196 yr by panmat

Decided to change the Haldex oil today. Car history is that at 2 years / 20,000 miles the Haldex clutch pump failed and was replaced under warranty. I presumed that at that point, the Haldex oil was changed as well. So I’ve left it until car has reached 3.5 years and 40,000 miles to change it again, ie just 20,000 miles and 1.5 years since it was last done.

 

Rule 1 is to always check you can get the filler bolt out, before opening the drain bolt! Filler is round aluminium with a rather small (5mm) hex socket which is easily rounded. Sure enough... A trip to TPS got me a new one for a few quid. I then tackled the old one with chisel and hammer! Got the little B***** out eventually.

 

I wanted to remove the pump to clean the integral gauze strainer and had previously bought new O rings that seal it. To remove the pump one first has to get enough slack on the wire and I came to the conclusion that to do that, it was easiest to undo the 2 8mm bolts that hold the electronic controller on. One could of course undo the connector but it is at the back so you can’t see it and unless you know exactly how it comes undone, it’s impossible. Anyway, easy to de-mount the electronic box. The wire is attached over the top of the Haldex by two plastic pegs that are easily pulled out.

 

With the wire free, the two 8mm bolts that hold the pump on, can be removed and pump extracted. Wow, what a lot of gloop on the gauze! And second point, hmmmm, not much oil coming out so maybe I was wrong to presume that the oil was changed when the pump was replaced (even though the dealer’s “service advisor” said it was).

 

 

Gauze filter can easily be removed. This is what it looks like when it’s clean:

 

 

Drain plug was then removed and the majority of the oil flowed out. Well really, it glooped out in lumps. An amazing amount of gloop which presumably is fibrous material from the clutch. I collected a small proportion in a glass. Lovely and yummy!

 

 

And having poured the oil out quickly, these lumpy bits remained in the glass, just a tiny proportion of the total gloop:

 

 

No idea how the Haldex was still working with all that rubbish in it! So I think the moral is, don’t neglect Haldex servicing if your car is a keeper. Not difficult to do (access underneath being the main issue for an amateur without a lift), haldex fluid was expensive at £40 but not significant in the great scheme of things. If you take it to a dealer, they won’t take out the pump and clean the pump gauze. As always, if you want it done properly, do it yourself!

 

Well that is the story so far. Timed out and now had a couple of G&Ts, pump refitting and oil fill will have to wait until tomorrow morning...

Edited 18 September, 20196 yr by nicknorman

12 hours ago, nicknorman said:

Decided to change the Haldex oil today...

Very interesting, thank you. I took my wife's SEAT Ateca 4-drive for its second service yesterday. It's at 2 years / 37000 miles so I asked for the Haldex oil change to be done. The dealer called me to say they didn't have the tools to do it and recommended leaving it until 80000 miles!

55 minutes ago, D402 said:

Very interesting, thank you. I took my wife's SEAT Ateca 4-drive for its second service yesterday. It's at 2 years / 37000 miles so I asked for the Haldex oil change to be done. The dealer called me to say they didn't have the tools to do it and recommended leaving it until 80000 miles!

 

You might be better taking it to a specialist independent (non-dealer), who might know to take out the pump to clean the gauze. Or even know how to do it at all (no special tools are needed). This presumes your wife's car in Gen 5 Haldex? Gen 4 had a separate filter.

 

There is some pretty good information about gen 5 haldex (and gen 4 too) here:

 

https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/generation-5-haldex-fault-finding-repair-guide/

 

 

Edited 19 September, 20196 yr by nicknorman

Just to finish off then, everything cleaned up and put back together after blowing some compressed air through the filler hole. Oil filled to overflowing. I then ran the procedure detailed in the link in my previous post to run the pump (it transpires that the engine has to be actually running for this to work) then topped up the oil again - it took quite a bit more since presumably the oil had filled the pump body. Filler bolt secured and that’s it, job done.

 

It will be interesting to see when I do it again in 20,000 miles or so, whether there is the same amount of black gloop in the oil.

Edited 19 September, 20196 yr by nicknorman

Fitted pedal covers and LED boot lights from Superskoda.

Boot lights were a straight swap out, no modifications needed and make a huge difference over the originals.

Can actually find things in the boot at night now 😁

Brake pedal cover was an easy fit, accelerator a bit more tricky, but softened in boiling water it went on without too much trouble.

Then gave it a good wash and mini detail 😎

Edited 21 September, 20196 yr by AidanF

I’ve done the led lights myself and agree, massive improvement from standard. 
 

Pedals look good. Did you have to drill to fit them or do they clip on?

17 minutes ago, Kamikazekid said:

I’ve done the led lights myself and agree, massive improvement from standard. 
 

Pedals look good. Did you have to drill to fit them or do they clip on?

 

No drilling needed, they have a rubber lip that fits over the edge of the pedal.

As I say, the accelerator is a bit tricky but soaked in boiling water to soften the rubber lip it goes on ok with a bit of jiggling.

Did the first stage of preparing it for winter, protecting the bodywork. Isn't  it depressing how quickly September comes around each year?

 

Started yesterday by washing and stripping the old protection off (Farecla G3 shampoo for the wash and Bilt Hamber Paint Cleanser to finish removing any old wax), full decontamination using Korosol and Oblitarate, clay (G3 clay mitt - not as good as a clay bar, but much quicker when you have a barge like the Superb to get around and time isn't on your side). One stage "correction" by hand using Meguiar's Ultimate compound and a Lake County crimson pad (I suspect it didn't actually do any real correction, but it did give me a very glassy finish to start from. I then gave it two coats of (excellent) Fusso Dark to give the base protection layer. Today I added a coat of Poorboys Black Hole Glaze to give it extra shine and locked it all in with a coat of Meguiar's Ultimate wax. Total time taken roughly 8 hours over the two days. It should now be ready for anything the weather has to throw at it over the next six months .

 

Next stage in a fortnight is the wheels. I hate that job...

 

No pics I'm afraid as by the time I was finished I was too knackered to take any!

Edited 22 September, 20196 yr by BriskodaJeff
Forgot a bit.

On 21/09/2019 at 16:46, AidanF said:

Fitted pedal covers and LED boot lights from Superskoda.

Boot lights were a straight swap out, no modifications needed and make a huge difference over the originals.

Can actually find things in the boot at night now 😁

Brake pedal cover was an easy fit, accelerator a bit more tricky, but softened in boiling water it went on without too much trouble.

Then gave it a good wash and mini detail 😎

where did you get the LEDs from for the Boot ?

23 minutes ago, jstallan said:

where did you get the LEDs from for the Boot ?

Probably superskoda mate, £34.99 but they do have 20% off until Monday 👍 http://www.superskoda.com/Skoda/SUPERB-II/Superb-III-MEGA-POWER-LED-cargo-trunk-light-KI-R

42 minutes ago, jstallan said:

where did you get the LEDs from for the Boot ?

 

As SeeJ suggested above, from Superskoda 👍

14 hours ago, SeeJ said:

Probably superskoda mate, £34.99 but they do have 20% off until Monday

they aren't diff than 7€ set from Ali
suggesting order two sets, to install extra twos in boot lid
-> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/393511-what-bulbs-are-fitted-to-the-s3-upgraded-bulb-recommendations/?do=findComment&comment=4893173

 

Replaced the wing mirror indicators with sequential ones 😊

 

They do look and feel much better than I expected.
The packaging was awesome, and it even included the necessary tools (mirror/trim remover + allen key) to do the job.
The actual job requires u to basically strip the wing mirror down to the bare arm, before u can unclip the indicator.  
I was hoping it wouldn't involve removing much, but it does!!
Steps:-
1. Remove mirror
2. Disconnect 3 sets of wires from the back of the mirror
3. Remove top back cover
4. Remove mirror motor
5. Remove centre frame/cover
6. Remove bottom cover
7. Remove puddle light
8. Unclip indicator
9. Put new indicator in.
10. Reverse the steps above.