26 minutes ago, TadyTheFish said:

Whell... No compression.. 13bar,14bar,12.5 bar, 13bar. Tripple checked the timing and it is spot on

Leave it overnight and try again, I think maybe the hydraulic tappets may have expanded out whilst removed. Very very low compression on all 4, I’ve seen this happen before.

It was assembled yesterday.. No luck today.. Checked the riming again ad it is good 🤷‍♂️ a friend also pointed out the tappets. He suggested to take them out and squezze them. I don't know. The only mistake that I made is that I didn't check the gap on the new rings. A friend works at the autopart shop an he checked tje order and they should fit 

I’m only guessing from far away, but, all 4 compressions very low and timing definitely ok, then it has to be something equally affecting every cylinder. 
You would have to do something badly wrong with cylinders, pistons or rings to get the compression so low. Or the cylinder head would have to be not sealed.
You say you didn’t check the piston ring gaps, but did you space the gaps correctly so they aren’t in line (usually 90 degrees apart, depends on number of rings and manufacturer instructions) ?

Other than that my money is on the tappets. Possibly they expanded and the valves were not properly closed and possibly cranking the engine may have bent them very slightly.

What you need is a cylinder leakage test where high pressure air is pumped in and you can listen for where it escapes.

Put some oil down the bores and check the compressions, if they go up it suggests piston/ring/cylinders.

 

 

Edited 18 March, 20233 yr by classic

I have spaced them 120degrees appart.. Oiled everything and put them in the way they were. I assembled the head without the camshafts and rotated the crank 90 degrees so all pistons are in line. Then I assembled the camshaft module. Then I carfully put the crank, cam and pump on the marks and assembled the belt. Then I handturned the engine 3 or 4 rotations carfully paying attetntion for piston-valve contact... Everything went smooth. 

I don't know how is the head. My frient rebuilt it. Removed the valves, changed the seals, and reseated the cleaned valves 🤷‍♂️

4 minutes ago, TadyTheFish said:

I have spaced them 120degrees appart.. Oiled everything and put them in the way they were. I assembled the head without the camshafts and rotated the crank 90 degrees so all pistons are in line. Then I assembled the camshaft module. Then I carfully put the crank, cam and pump on the marks and assembled the belt. Then I handturned the engine 3 or 4 rotations carfully paying attetntion for piston-valve contact... Everything went smooth. 

I don't know how is the head. My frient rebuilt it. Removed the valves, changed the seals, and reseated the cleaned valves 🤷‍♂️

The answer is a cylinder leakage test then. Old school way was to squirt oil down the bores and do a compression check, if it was leaking past the pistons the oil would improve the results over a dry compression check. Next step, cylinder leakage test. If you have access to an air compressor you might be able to rig something up but a proper tester is the correct thing. You can then find if the air leaks out of the inlet, exhaust, cooling system, dipstick tube etc.

 

Maybe I can use the fitting for the compression test. It screws in the glow plug... Any advice on how to do that? I assume fit a gauge an a valve to shut off the air supply? What about the position of the tested cylinder bottom dead center I presume? Never done that but I am quite handy 

TDC with the valves closed so TDC of compression stroke.

You just keep pumping air in. If the cylinder tested is good it won’t let much in, but your compression is low so air will flow through it out of wherever the fault is. I’ve only ever used a proper tester but it is basically adapters to connect an air line to a glow plug, injector or spark plug fitting.

Edited 18 March, 20233 yr by classic

Ok TDC of compression stike.. I presume that this is when the CAM sprocket is 180 degrees out of the locking position? 

If talking about the first cylinder😁

Edited 18 March, 20233 yr by TadyTheFish

Well for number 1 cylinder if you time everything up crank, cam marks etc, that should be number 1 at TDC of compression stroke. At this point number 4 will be TDC of exhaust stroke. So a full turn from number 1 TDC should put number 4 at TDC of compression. Half a turn from number 1 TDC should put numbers 2 and 3 at TDC and check the position of the cams to see which has both valves closed. But if firing order is 1 3 4 2 then number 3 should be next.

Hope I remember this right !

The cylinder leak test would show it but is there any chance injector seals are missing or not fitted correctly, did you fit them or your friend when they do the cylinder head ?

Edit : by full turn I mean 360 degree rotation of crank, half a turn 180 degrees 

Edited 18 March, 20233 yr by classic

Injector seals are new.. I even took out the injectors and tested if they spray right hillbily stlye 🙈

My friend only did the head, even the tappets and rollers were numbered so they are not mixed up, the cam module was fitted by me 

It is a guessing game for me. Cylinder leakage test will find it. You may have to buy, borrow or hire a proper one.
I hate to say it  but All 4 low compression does point at timing, my route of cylinder leak test is presuming the timing is definitely correct. 😬

In fact if you do a leak test and for example it was leaking through the inlet that could still be because of incorrect timing holding a valve slightly open…

 

Edit : Timing being correct is the inlet and exhaust cams being timed correctly together first before timing to the crank when fitting the belt. You wouldn’t need to be more than a tooth or so out to lose compression. I haven’t worked on one of these so don’t know how both cams are checked or locked. 

Edited 18 March, 20233 yr by classic

On thin engine you don't have an exhaus and intake cam but a mix.. One came has 4 intake and 4 exhaust lobes. One cam is driven with the belt and on the other side you have two gears that drive the other cam. The cams can't be taoen out but you rather change the whole module. I didn't dismantle the gears so cam to cam timing has to be correct.. 

5 minutes ago, TadyTheFish said:

On thin engine you don't have an exhaus and intake cam but a mix.. One came has 4 intake and 4 exhaust lobes. One cam is driven with the belt and on the other side you have two gears that drive the other cam. The cams can't be taoen out but you rather change the whole module. I didn't dismantle the gears so cam to cam timing has to be correct.. 

It’s out of my league then !

Do you use locking tools to fix cam and crank in place ?

No I dont have the tools. I locked the cam and pump with 6mm pins. The crank was set with the AC pulley on. The pulley has a marking that aligns with the marking on the plastic cover. Its marked OT i think and if I put a screw driver in the injector hole it seems like TDC

18 minutes ago, TadyTheFish said:

No I dont have the tools. I locked the cam and pump with 6mm pins. The crank was set with the AC pulley on. The pulley has a marking that aligns with the marking on the plastic cover. Its marked OT i think and if I put a screw driver in the injector hole it seems like TDC

I don’t know that engine but I wouldn’t do it without the tools.

Can the cam be 180 degrees out ? Also you want the crank locked in exactly the right place.

The fact you’ve got more or less no compression suggests an issue here.

I will investigate ofcourse.. No i don't think that it could be off by 180 degrees.. I will first do a leak test and remove the cam cover to see where I'm at. I'm just scared sh*tless that there is an issue with the rings because I didn't gap them. I'm 100% certiain that they are inserted correctly and in the right order

Here is something I can try.. To see if the phase is correct.. The signals should be similar

CLICK

3 hours ago, TadyTheFish said:

I will investigate ofcourse.. No i don't think that it could be off by 180 degrees.. I will first do a leak test and remove the cam cover to see where I'm at. I'm just scared sh*tless that there is an issue with the rings because I didn't gap them. I'm 100% certiain that they are inserted correctly and in the right order

If there is a problem with the rings after you’ve had it apart then I guess your engine is dead as it means reboring it, oversized pistons etc. So I would assume your work is good and test for other reasons for the no start. Timing you are happy with so go back to absolute basics. - scan for fault codes, is it getting air into the engine, does it inject fuel.

An engine that has been apart takes a bit of starting anyway due to air locks etc.

36 minutes ago, TadyTheFish said:

Here is something I can try.. To see if the phase is correct.. The signals should be similar

CLICK

Give it a try. One clue the diagnosedan video shows is that a faulty variable valve timing thing losing pressure overnight alters the valve timing enough to make a very difficult cold start. This is how exact the timing must be. If your engine is slightly out of time it won’t like it.

Mine does not have the VVT... Just a blanking plate.. But it shpuld bi something simmilar. At least i can see if the timing is ok I can check of the crank sensor wheel and timing belt

So here is an update. On friday evening we gave up and put the battery on the charger and we let it be. This morning my friemt went to his garage and gave it a go. He cranked it over and the car started and ran for 30 seconds then he shut it off. In the evening I came over and we started it again this time we left it running for about 3 min then I gave it some gas and it climbed to 1500. When I let go of the gas it idled but the RPM started to fluctuate and then I tapped the gas once more it died and it refuses to start. So thinking there could be some air left in the system we uncrewd the injector fittings and I used VCDS to start the low pressure fuel pump. Fuel came out from the nuts and then we cranked it with the nuts undone. We tightened the nuts and gave it a go. Some help from the starting spray and it started again. And it idled for 30 seconds and died again. Now we could not start it back up. Even after bleeding the system again and running the pump for 3 minutes. We rechecked the compression and it went up to 16 bar on all cylinders. Now we don't know what to check or do 🤷‍♂️

Oh and I measured the fuel pressure during cranking it jumps around 380-440 bar

Scan it for fault codes ?

One fault that says Databus error. I searched google and it should say there is an error on another module. I have error lamps for ABS and ESP. These should clear once I drive the car, VCDS can't clear them 🤷‍♂️. I eill rescan the whole system and record the waveforms