As my boredom due to the current situation is at its peak, there is yet another retrofit which I will attempt over next couple of days or maybe bit longer.

 

The money so called authorised dealers and other VAG specialist are asking to do that are insane. So, this a cheap alternative which costed me so far around 150EUR. There will be a lot of cuts on my forearms and a lot of cursing involved but it should be doable.

 

The biggest issue will be running One wire, which is from BCM unit to ECU in the engine compartment.

 

Wish me luck and stay tuned for updates.

 

It's already been done before. On 'sister' forum for VW up!  VW Polo.

 

Looking forward to seeing how this works out

After hard day kneeling and bending my back, all the wires from the kit supplied are in place.

 

the good news is, multifunction display on the speedometer came to life. informations displayed are current speed/average speed/average consumption/range/coolant temp/trip duration/and of course time and outside temperature. you can scroll between the information using buttons on your right hand/wiper stalk.

 

the biggest problem, as predicted, was to run the cable from BCM to ECU. on UK cars, the easiest way is to gain access to a gromet on the bulkhead trough which the main wiring loom is being fed. in order to do so, you need to take off plastic inserts at the bottom of the windscreen, remove wiper arms and wiper motor. strip the insulation tape of the wiring loom and gently insert some sort of stiff wire. for that purpose I've used a wire coat hanger. Once you manage to go to inside of the cab, just attach the right cable for the ecu to the end of the coat hanger and pull it inside the engine compartment.

 

another problem is, ecu mounting screws. these unfortunately had to be grinded off as its one of those undoable types. Once they're being tightened to right torque their heads just snap. Once you manage to undo these to little brats - the last challenge is to open the ecu connector. I did manage to open it, but unfortunately I did slightly damaged the plugs - neverthless, a lot of patience is required.

 

Once you've endured all the above, its time to do some coding under VCDS...

 

and sadly,this is not the result I was after the whole day of me tal and physical torment...

 

Address 01: Engine (J623-CHYA)       Labels:. 04C-906-020-CHY.clb

   Part No SW: 04C 906 020 AP    HW: 04C 907 309 P

   Component: 1.0l R3 MPI   H23 6703 

   Revision: UNH23---   

   Coding: 00110012022401000000

   Shop #: WSC 31414 790 00001

   ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM10MPI01104C906020AP 001007

   ROD: EV_ECM10MPI01104C906020AP.rod

   VCID: 69D90BA58879E50262-803C

 

1 Fault Found:

4482 - Function Restriction due to Implausible Message(s)

          U1112 00 [039] - -

          Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

             Freeze Frame:

                    Fault Status: 00000001

                    Fault Priority: 2

                    Fault Frequency: 1

                    Mileage: 86446 km

                    Date: 2020.05.27

                    Time: 00:31:50

 

                    Engine speed: 0.00 /min

                    Normed load value: 0.0 %

                    Vehicle speed: 0 km/h

                    Coolant temperature: 30 °C

                    Intake air temperature: 30 °C

                    Ambient air pressure: 1030 mbar

                    Voltage terminal 30: 11.991 V

                    Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

                    Cruise Control System (CCS): status-Bits 0-7: 8

                    Cruise Control System: specified speed: 0.00 km/h

                    Cruise control switch-off: irreversible w. brake intervention-Bits 0-7: 0

                    Cruise control switch-off: reversible-Bits 0-7: 255

                    Cruise control switch-off: irreversible-Bits 0-7: 255

                    Acceleration: 0.000 m/s²

 

Readiness: 1110 0001

---------------------------------

 

there will be few pics to follow shortly and also a possible solution as well will be posted here.

I have contacted the kit manufacturer in regards of this issue and also I have got in touch with my spiritual guru @danikd

the weirdest thing just happened. I had to go out to sort couple of things, so I took the car. despite of having beforementioned fault coming up in VCDS, regardless how many times I would erase it would reappear. so, I was expecting, that CCS is not working... I could not be more wrong. I've pressed res/+ on the stalk while I was driving and the little green icon appeared on my speedometer wow once I've got back home, I've tried one more time to do auto-scan in VCDS, yet again - cleared the fault codes, en voilà - no more fault codes! I have a fully functional CCS.

As mentioned earlier, here it is a write up on how-to add CCS to your Citigo.

 

Before you start your retrofit, You need to establish if you want to also add a stalk for your vehicle mutlifunction display. Its only 4 additional wires running indepentedly from Your replacement wiper/multifunction stalk to Your instrument cluster. If You will decide to add a full multifunction steering wheel buttons - you dont need those extra wires as it will be covered by the controls on the steeringf wheel. As mentioned in one of the previous post it will display additional information on your Speedometer such as current speed/average speed/current fuel consupmption/average consumption etc.

 

At this point it would be handy, to double check if Your Speedometer is supporrting additional information to be displayed. In order to do so, You will need a VCDS. You can check it simply by going to Your Instrument Panel and running your display test. It is not required to upgrade to maxi-dot display (white-on-black). You should get something similar after running the display test.

 

Once You established what You want to achieve from Your installation below You will find major steps which needs to be performed in order to achieve fully operational CCS/MFA.

 

Once Your kit arrived, You need to start from removing Your airbag and steering wheel. There is plenty of Youtube tutorials on howo to remove the airbag, so I will post only brief description.

 

Once the airbag had been removed, you should be looking at something similar to this:

 

Undo the main steering wheel bolt and steering wheel will come off quite easily. Remember to mark the position of Your steering wheel so You can fit it exactly in the same position as before.

When You have steering wheel of, You will be looking at this.

 

Steering column trim cover is only held by one screw underneath on the bottom of the trim. Once the screw is out there is no other bolts. Gently remove part 1 on the below image. You will need some sort of wedge tool to detach the top trim (part 2). and the part 3 should come off.

 

Undo all the plugs attached to the steering column. Gently remove the slip ring and remember the connector needs to be on the 12o'clock position when reinstalling. Stalks are being held by one locator screw. circled on the image below. If You dont remove this screw and You will try to remove stalks you will most likely brake something lol

As mentioned at the beginning, there is a possibilty to attach only CCS/Indicator stalk by undoing to little screws holding the stalks to the centre part. However I will focus on a full swap as it is what i did on mine.

Connecting MFA is a straight forward as mentioned earlier the wiring loom consist of 4 wires and it is a separate connection between right stalk (T10 Connector) and Speedometer (T32 Connector).
Pins are numbered on the plug but just in case I have arrowed pin 1. This information is only applicable for vehicles manufactured after 11/2013. For older use T41, grey'ish L shape connector.

 

Now You have to remove Your speedometer. Once the steering wheel is of, Your IC is only held by 2 screws. Undo those screws and pull out the clocks and undo the T32 connector from the back of the cluster.

 

Again, pins are numbered, so You shouldnt have any issues locating the right ones.

 

Last thing to do here, is to attach the actual CCS wires to large connector on the left hand side of the steering column. Connector is referenced as T16d. Please note: that the connector pictured below is applicable ONLY for vehicles made after 11/2013. Vehicles manufactured before that date will have grey'ish L shape connector T41.

Just tie up the wiring and top end is pretty much done.

Now, not so easy part begins. Getting access to Your BCM. You need to make sure that Your vehicle is equipeed with BCM that will support CCS installation. There is plenty of information on this subject so I will ommit that here.

Remove Your A-pilar trim (simple, right?)

 

loosen 2 screws holding your fuse box, pull the OBD connector out. Undo Your throttle pedal (You will need 10mm socket to do that), unplug the connector for the throttle pedal. Yes, You have to do that, in order to create more working space for Yourself.

 

Once You've done that, there is one more trim panel you have to slacken.

 

This will create enough working space, at least it was just about enough for me.

 

Release 2 plugs from the back of the BCM and pull the BCM out of its holder on the back of the relay rack.

 

The best way and the only way to remove the bcm is to push it up and forward and it should fall down sometimes a bit of force maybe be required to pull the BCM completely.

 

once the bcm is removed, feed the bcm connectors to the top left corner of the relay carrier. Just do ONE plug at the time. The result should be as per picture below

This image shows BCM plug with its cover removed. I will try to provide You with a brief tutorial how to dismantle this plug bit later. Taking into consideration a limited amount of working space available, this was one of the issues I had when adding MFSW as well as CCS.

 

Before You will start tidying up everyhting, You need to feed CCS wire, which will run from BCM to the ECU. In the manual provided with the kit as well as on VW Up! forum, there was something mentioned about running it paralely to vehicle bonnet release cable (I have no clue how that was achieved) and another rumor is that by removing N/S wheel arch liner You could get access to the cable and to the battery tray - very interesting but on Citigo at least on my one it was not the case.

So, remove the wiper arms, make sure to mark their alingment on the windscreen. You will need a 13mm socket. Take the arms of (You dont need a arm puller to do that). Remove both plastic infill panels. Be very carefull as You take them out so You will not brake the clips in the corner. Those clips are located on the plastics itself where wheel arch panel meets with windscreen.

 

Remove the OE insulation tape from the grommet. Not all of, just to gain access to the grommet. Use some sort of fairly stiff but yet flexible piece of wire. I've used a metal wire coat hanger. Make sure to secure the end of it with some insulation tape. apply a bit of vaseline or washing liquid and keep pushing the wire into the rubber groomet. YOU NEED TO BE VERY CAREFULL AS YOU ARE PUSHING THIS COAT HANGER AGAINST YOUR MAIN WIRING LOOM AND YOU DONT WANT TO DAMAGE ANY WIRES ALREADY RUNNING THERE. Its good to have somebody to help You out on this step. with a bit of fiddling and right aiming the wire should come inside the cabin just on the top left corner of Your relay carrier.

 

Attach the intended for ECU wire to the other end and pull it inside the engine compartment. Again, join them wisely and carefully feed it back to the engine compartment. Make sure to secure the grommet back again with the insulation tape. ****, Ive runned out of black tape...

 

Run the BCM-ECU alongside the main wiring loom and secure it accordinly

Use the same techique as with the bulkhead grommet to insert the BCM-ECU wire

 

If You think, that You went trough hell, You are wrong. This is the worst part of the challenge so far. You need to remove battery and the battery tray in order to get access to the ECU unit. The green arrows on the image indicate 2 horrible sheer bolts which HAVE to be removed. You will find Yourself lucky if Your vehicle had any work done to theh gearbox or clutch as there is a possibility, that these bolts were replaced with something decent. If not - a lot of grinding and chiselling will be required.

 

Once You managed to get access to the ECU unit. undo the ECU plug nearest to the wheel.

Remove the purple insert inside the connector. It is a sort of pin locking/securing mechanism. There will be quite few vaccant pins with black blanking pin. Simply remove the desired blanking plug and insert the BCM-ECU wire. At this point it will be so much easier to dissasemble the plug, to clearly see the numbers on the pins. Dont ask me how I've managed to do so, I was in DIY frenzy, on the limits of my patience, and sadly I have damaged the plug but I did opened it.

On the connector, look for the pin number 25 and count from there.

put everything back together, couple of Hail Mary's and uncertainity if You have connected everything correctly. Bit of coding in VCDS and You are all set up.

I hope, You will find this guide helpfull.

 

NOTE: The wiring for this kit is covered in the instruction provided with it. so I will not cover it here. Also, there are 2 different kits out there. One is recommending connection of one wire directly to fuse no.5 where the other one comes with lovely splice wire for connection directly to Your BCM. Always, before You purchase Your kit, plaese provide Your VIN number to the kit manufacturer so he can supply You with the right stalks.

Its a whole day challenge. it took me around 5-6hours to have it fitted, thats excluding numerous energy drinks breaks, consultations and un-productive and unrelated to the subject chit-chats with neigbours.

Edited 29 May, 20206 yr by P3P5I
Typos and more typos

Fantastic write up!  Thanks a lot.  It's the best guide I've seen so much appreciated.

 

I've bought the steering combination switches from a breaker and just waiting for the cables from Germany that you used (Cum Cartec unfortunate name!) to arrive then I'll be giving it a go.  I'll only add the MFA control and also the multi-function controls to the steering wheel but will lay the cables for the cruise control so i don't have to take everything apart again when I attempt it.  If I can get those 2 to work then I'll attempt to finish the cruise control cable routing.  Looking at your guide I'm already anticipating a difficult day ahead!

Many thanks for Your kind words.

 

If You need any advice or moral support feel free to drop me a message.

Awesome dedication and well-written guide!

 

Can't imagine CCS on my Citigo - I have often changed to 3rd to maintain decent speed on some motorway and dual carriageway sections! CCS would be OK for me in long roadworks though....  But then not much worry with that down here in Penzance!

 

@P3P5I Amazing thank you, that's very kind of you!  I'm certain I will have to send you a message or 2 for help!  Just looking through the guide supplied by the cable manufacturer and all the pictures are of a different car haha!  So even more grateful for your guide!

 

@freemansteve You raise a great point, having driven from London to St. Ives it's quite a lot hills on the various A roads and motorways.  More than any car I've previously owned it's a lot of changing up and down the gears!  Foot to the floor in 5th really doesn't do much, so down to 4th and sometimes even 3rd!  I really wonder how the cruise control will handle it. 

@maxychat & @freemansteve My Citigo is a 60BHP variant, so there isnt much power coming out from this little car. My daily commute is a 70 miles round trip. With a CCS set to true 52MPH (54 on car's speedometer) the average fuel consupmtion is approx 75-78MPG. I can push up to 430-450 miles between fill-ups.

Adding CCS had greatly improved my MPG's. Silly me, even if I drive localy I would still use CCS 😎

 

IMHO this mod is the best thing I could've add to my car!

@P3P5I Wow I'm very impressed!  I honestly don't think I could do that commute in the Citigo so the cruse control retrofit you've done sounds like an amazing quality of life upgrade.  I've struggled a bit on the long runs so I look forward to trying to install mine soon!   Also it's great that it's improved the mpg!  Fantastic added bonus.

For further life improvements I can also recommend an arm rest. Goes nicely with CCS, so we can relax while driving 😉

Great shout!  That was the first thing I added ha!  Best £139 I've spent on the car,  really great quality of life upgrade, cant imagine driving without it now.  I'm even now looking into an if a mk3 Fabia seat would plug n play fit into the car for even extra comfort. 

 

 

@maxychatmy one costed me £49 and does the same job. And there was no need to chop the original center part in order to fit it. Its not as sturdy as the OEM armrest although it's supporting my arm quite well as I'm not a big bloke. 😂

Dear group members, I have a VW UP! 2017 model and I am going to install cruise control. I don't have a multifunction steering wheel, so all the functions for the board computer, the wiper sensor and the new added cruise control will be controlled by the stalks. The hardware installation is straightforward to me thanks to the great instructions from @P3P5I. However the programming to enable cruise control is a gray area.

I have found the following coding instructions using VCDS or OBDeleven Pro:

 

Engine 1: byte 5 from 04 hex to 24 hex

Instruments 17: byte 1 from 42 hex to 4A hex

Body control (BCM / centr electric) 09: byte 17 from 40 hex to C0 hex

 

Are these three coding steps correct? Am I missing something?

 

Do I need any access code in order to code these modules?

 

I have also seen this in various websites for cruise control activation in other VW models: coding ii (or security access): 11463. What is this? Does it apply for VW UP!?

 

Some more questions to @P3P5I:

 

- I saw that you sourced the cc kit from Cumcartec. Did you receive anything else besides the stalks and the loom from them? Was there any activation code of shorts in the kit? I am thinking to order the stalks and the cable pins separately and crimp them on the cables, as a cheaper option. So is there any other benefit to order the kit from a supplier like Cumcartec?

 

- On your pictures, you did not remove the lower dashboard trim completely. Instead you left it hanging from one side from the middle of the dashboard. Was there enough room to work on the BCM connectors this way? I understand that you have to switch to an ackward position to reach the BCM, so probably, removing the lower trim completely would make it a lot easier.

 

Thank you in advance for your support.

@Haribest as mentioned in PM, here it is - an anwer to Your questions.

 

Quote

Engine 1: byte 5 from 04 hex to 24 hex

Instruments 17: byte 1 from 42 hex to 4A hex

Body control (BCM / centr electric) 09: byte 17 from 40 hex to C0 hex

Yes, These are correct values, which need to be updated using VCDS or similar software. However, Im not sure if INstruments -17 is relevant to CCS functionality as this is to activate MFA. On the  wiper stalk, You will get extra buttons which will allow You to scroll trough some additional informations on Your clock/speedometer i.e. average consumption, average speed, current speed, trip time etc.

There is no need for any sort of security access on our cars.

 

Quote

I saw that you sourced the cc kit from Cumcartec. Did you receive anything else besides the stalks and the loom from them? Was there any activation code of shorts in the kit? I am thinking to order the stalks and the cable pins separately and crimp them on the cables, as a cheaper option. So is there any other benefit to order the kit from a supplier like Cumcartec?

KIt contained all the neccessary items to complete the instalation. To be fairly honest, buying the complete kit saves You hassle of crimping the wires Yourself. I know, it is a lazy option. All the wires in the kit are colour coded and You cant go wrong.

 

Quote

you did not remove the lower dashboard trim completely

in order to remove that particular section, I would have to strip the WHOLE BOTTOM of the centre console. Including removal of the Radio. As per trim removal procedures described in the Skoda Workshop Manual. Im not saying there is plenty of room to work with, but I found it being just enough. It did create an opening large enough to work with it. It was stil better, than working directly behind the BCM unit.

 

The BIGGEST issue I had during this installation was accessing the engine ECU. ECU mounting plate is held on by 2 security screws to the battery tray. You will need a grinder to get rid of them. Another tricky part, was feeding BCM-ECU wire. It is handy to have somebody to help you with that task. Your job should be easier, as You have a LHD vehicle and You dont have to run the wire all the way from right side to the left side. Your case would be just to feed the trough the bulkhead.

 

If You would need any further support, please do let me know.

Hi,

 

I am about to install cruise control too ..the first attempt , although I removed the 2 connectors (black/white) and their covers, was not successful as I could not plug in the pins from the cum cartec retrofit wire kit, due to lack of space...

 

P3P5I, how did you remove the obd plug? Did you just pull it downwards or press it upwards? Is Also what about bcm...do you just force it upwards and towards firewall? Because I tried but it didn't move...I could have used more force but was afraid of breaking anything...

Thank you P3P5I!! You are to the point.

 

3 hours ago, P3P5I said:

Quote

Engine 1: byte 5 from 04 hex to 24 hex

Instruments 17: byte 1 from 42 hex to 4A hex

Body control (BCM / centr electric) 09: byte 17 from 40 hex to C0 hex

Yes, These are correct values, which need to be updated using VCDS or similar software. However, Im not sure if INstruments -17 is relevant to CCS functionality as this is to activate MFA. On the  wiper stalk, You will get extra buttons which will allow You to scroll trough some additional informations on Your clock/speedometer i.e. average consumption, average speed, current speed, trip time etc.

There is no need for any sort of security access on our cars

 

I already have the MFA and the extra buttons on the wiper stalk. I am missing the CC that I am planning to install. So I am curious to see what are the current settings on those three modules, once my OBDeleven pro arrives.

 

3 hours ago, P3P5I said:

Quote

you did not remove the lower dashboard trim completely

in order to remove that particular section, I would have to strip the WHOLE BOTTOM of the centre console. Including removal of the Radio. As per trim removal procedures described in the Skoda Workshop Manual. Im not saying there is plenty of room to work with, but I found it being just enough. It did create an opening large enough to work with it. It was stil better, than working directly behind the BCM unit.

 

The VW Up interior workshop manual states that you can remove the trim underneath the radio unit. This is attached with clips on the dashboard and you need a flat tool to pry the edges. Once this is removed, the screws that hold the drivers lower dashboard trim, are revealed. Anyway, I will start with the partial removal of the driver's trim, as you did and see how it goes.

 

3 hours ago, P3P5I said:

The BIGGEST issue I had during this installation was accessing the engine ECU. ECU mounting plate is held on by 2 security screws to the battery tray. You will need a grinder to get rid of them.

 

Thank you for the heads up on this. I saw it an your detailed description too. I am planning to cut a slot on each screw with my dremel and use a big flathead screwdriver to undo them. Then I will use two  standard M6x16 bolts to fix the ECU back in place.

My car's warranty has expired long ago so I am not worried about this ;) 

 

Thanks again for your reply. I really appreciate it!!!

Dear @Haribest 

 

Quote

The VW Up interior workshop manual states that you can remove the trim underneath the radio unit. This is attached with clips on the dashboard and you need a flat tool to pry the edges. Once this is removed, the screws that hold the drivers lower dashboard trim, are revealed.

Same applies to Skoda's and Seat's. However I could not be bothered to go trough all this... Just being bit lazy. Depending on how big are Your hands, You should be able to get around it just by loosing up the bottom trim just as I did.

 

Quote

I already have the MFA and the extra buttons on the wiper stalk. I am missing the CC that I am planning to install. So I am curious to see what are the current settings on those three modules

In your case, Instruments - 17 should be already checked/selected. Otherwise, it would not work. In your situation, You only have to add settings in Engine and Central Electr. and You are sorted.

 

Quote

how did you remove the obd plug?

@stavkon its being attahed to the bottom of the fuse box by two screws. Undo the screws and slide it out from its location.

 

Quote

what about bcm...do you just force it upwards and towards firewall?

Right, after going trough hell, and having my wrists slashed and scratched by various body parts while adding MFSW, MFA and CCS wiring. I came to a conclusion, by trials and errors, that removal of BCM unit is NOT necessary to add wires to white and black connectors (T73a and T73b). I found a way around it, as even if you manage to remove BCM (which I will tell further down in the text) there is not enough space behind the fusebox to work on the connectors. Hence, I came with an idea, to pull the plugs towards the top of the fuse box - slightly to the right of the steering column and above fuse box. By droping the bottom trim You should be able to have just enough room to work there. There is enough free play on those looms, that You can quite confidently give them bit of a tug. Just my suggestion, try feeding the BCM-ECU wire first. As if You fail to have that done, Your efforts with the BCM will be wasted.

 

If You want to remove BCM unit, push it forward towards the bulkhead, it will unclip the bottom catches and now You just have to pull BCM module downwards. It is easier, if You remove accelerator/gas pedal

 

Im happy to give you as much support as I can! So in case of any other question - let me know.

Quote

I came with an idea, to pull the plugs towards the top of the fuse box - slightly to the right of the steering column and above fuse box.

Sorry, in case of LHD cars, it would be on the left hand side of the steering rack...

That's what I did but trying to force the pins in , I bent and broke them...

I just (literally a few mins ago) received a white bcm connector from salvage to study it ...after you remove the white cover, the black part inside which holds the pins can be splitted in two...you have to split it in order to install the pin because as one part slide into the other they "lock" the pins in place...

I will make a video tutorial when I find time to help others ..

Here it is ....

 

https://youtu.be/sDPie9hL0hg

Quote

That's what I did but trying to force the pins in , I bent and broke them...

I just (literally a few mins ago) received a white bcm connector from salvage to study it ...after you remove the white cover, the black part inside which holds the pins can be splitted in two...you have to split it in order to install the pin because as one part slide into the other they "lock" the pins in place...

@stavkon it is not entirely the truth. You can quite easily add pins without splitting the halves. Altough You do need to split it open if You want to remove/extract existing pins, as the locking tab for the individual pins is only revealed when You split it open.

 

It is handy to have a spare connector as You can utilise the old pins for future retrofits simply by soldering the new wiring to the old cables with pins. Remember, the pins can go in to the connectors only one way! so make sure You push them in right way.

 

and, a handy tip HERE on how to remove the cover.

Unfortunately in my case the pins could go in, no matter what, unless I split the 2 parts as I showed in video...I broke 2 by pushing them in...

33 minutes ago, stavkon said:

Unfortunately in my case the pins could go in, no matter what, unless I split the 2 parts as I showed in video...I broke 2 by pushing them in...

You are right, the original VAG pins, have one side taller hence You cannot insert them without splitting the connector. However, if You would use a similar specification pins (OEM by AliExpress), they are perfectly square when looked from the front. Just checked lol