Hi guys,

 

Viewing a 2011 Fabia VRS tomorrow (I know). I wondered if anybody know the car and if theres anything beyond the buyers guides which I have read already, to look for.

 

Its got 60k on the clock, engine replaced at 46k in 2017. Its green and the reg is AK61 OBY.

I don't think I can be desuaded from a Mk2 VRS as it suits me perfectly, but any wisdom is appreciated!

Welcome to the forum.

 

Loads of smiles per miles, it is a case of get all the knowledge you can, check check an check again then buy into the lottery.

You are going to need to be sure on not just the engine but on the DSG.

Good that the engine was changed, so was '34F7' done on the DSG?

Look at exhaust rear box, brake discs, tyres etc, & what advisories have there been at MOT's,  any bushes etc.

 

Are there receipts, has the Water Pump /Belts been changed?

 

Is the EVO Guide one of those you have read with input from members from Briskoda?

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/429231-mk2-fabia-vrs-buying-guide-in-evo-issue-235

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/426080-evo-magazine-buying-guide

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/443702-looking-to-buy-fabia-mk2-vrs-60k-miles

 

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/443195-used-fabia-vrs-mk2-buying-advice

 

That is a great post, thanks bud.

 

So, I have been told there is a lot of paperwork with the car, what that consists of, I'm not sure till i get there in the morning. How will i be able to check if the DSG has been looked at? In the instance there's no paperwork. 

All the advisories are tires over the years, so thats pretty good.

 

Will I need to check for water pump and belts if the engine has only done 14k miles?

 

I am pretty handy with cars so I'm not scared of changing bushes, brakes and alike. What does 'scare' me is internal engine ****e and transmission stuff.

 

I will read all those links too. Probably read at least one of them.

In the spare tyre well there should be a sticker beside the build sticker with '34F7' on it, a dealer stamp and date.

 

The Water pump is also the magnetic supercharger clutch and will be 9 years old if not changed when the engine was.

They used the original when fitting the Base Engine. Maybe even the old belts.

 

You should be scared very scared.  or Take someone that knows the cars and how they should be.

 

Enjoy the test drive.  Before starting the engine, dip the oil and see it is at the top of the cross hatch area when cold.

When you drive it take it easy for 5 miles minimum, and listen, and just give the throttle the occasional blip.

 

Once the oil temp indicated is above 50*oC towards 80*oC and the road is clear, floor it, really boot it while hanging onto the wheel and looking in the mirror.

Black smoke is OK it is blasting out soot.

Even the TC light flickering is OK.  A EPC or Engine (Exhaust Emissions) light is not, or any stutters or hicups.

 

After a few miles of trying the car with kickdown, manual changes,it is time to stop, wait 4-5 minutes and dip the oil.

That is if there has been no issues.

If there are walk away.  There are plenty good cars about cheap.   Even maybe members here selling one.

 

Have Fun.   

If the seller freaks at how you road test i would say tara, roottootemoot.

 

You will need to be buying Super Unleaded. i would advise Tesco Momentum 99 rather than Shell V-Power Nitro +.

Edited 31 May, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

http://evo.co.uk/skoda/fabia-vrs

 

Some information on here attributed to others is word for word from posts i made on here. 

Cheeky barstewards.

 

& only a tit would leave oil in the boot when selling a car that uses oil, 

but plenty have oil in the boot when not an oil user, i always had so i could top up others cars as too often they were run with not enough oil in and the owner had not a clue how to check the oil.  Just like many garages....

 

 

Edited 31 May, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

Ewww cheeky that. 

 

So they literally only changed the engine block and upwards? Will bear that in mind. I will try my best to do that with the test drive, but I guess that really depends on the route we take. 

 

Some really useful advice there, thank you for that. 

 

Would you be more cautious around one thats had a swap over one that hasn't though? There's a couple more I've seen in my budget. One is 60k miles and full service history and the other is 116k miles, not sure about history. Then there's this one with the swapped engine.

 

I did wonder. The replacement engines, where did they come from. Surely it was discontinued before 2017 (when it was changed).

Beware.

You are looking for a Dealership changed 'Base Engine' refurbished factory.

Not some Ringer, lifted out of anothers car.  no paperwork, Engine Numbers wrong on the V5.

But,

then Skoda never changed engine numbers, dealers lied and said they restamped and loads of guff.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/324108-replacement-engines-engine-numbers-v5-dvla-skoda-uk-what-happened

 

 

I would snap up one with a replaced engine as long as all well, serviced,. spark plugs changed etc.

 

116k is to be avoided usually.  

Unless new engine, DSG, exhaust, wheels / tyres, body, glass, interior etc etc.   Ones like that exist./...

Edited 31 May, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

Adding to George’s list, check the rear hatch surface for residual oil spots both before and after the drive. There shouldn’t be any.

 

Also ask what grade of oil is in it. 5w30 is specced, 5w40 slows oil consumption.

 

Otherwise, they are a riot to drive. Loved ours esp on the twistes. 

I only advise using 5w 40 FS to VW502 00, to stop them being oil users.   Never use Long Life crap, especially Castrol.

 

5w 30 FS III VW 507 Long Life oil and superunleaded leads to bore wash and many a dead Twincharger.  Pity VW never listened...

Supposedly it was done by Skoda and all the invoices and paperwork is there for the engine swap. It also "has service history since the engine swap".

 

I'll more than likely change the plugs and oil when I get it anyway. So I shall post about that when i am officially an owner. I am feeling good about this one, provided everything the seller has told me is true. So I am expecting to make a deal tomorrow provided everything you've mentioned is ok.

Take your time.  Do lots of looking.  It is a 9 year old car,

check the windscreen closely for tiny chips that will annoy in the sun light.

There is an annoying place for rust.  Check this bit.

Looks small, but pita.  Needs dealt with.  It should make you look for any more rust.

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/480720-rust

 

Nice one, thanks for your help. Will update tomorrow!

@AmusedMussel

OT, but tell me about your GT86 please.

I love them, tried both the GT86 & BRZ autos when they came out and was going to get one in a trade with a guy that wanted a Fabia vRS.

I found him one instead and he crashed it not long after.

 

Reason i never got the BRZ was that once in, getting out was kind of difficult. especially if drivers door was at the kerb.

Edited 31 May, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

I love it. It was my realistic dream car, if that makes sense.

 

Its not a powerful car, its not winning medals for drag racing, but on a country lane, its so fun to drive. I've had a few performance cars. A 2014 Golf GTI, a Nissan 350Z and this GT86 and it is absolutely, hands down the best handling car of all of them.

Mine is a manual, can't speak for the autos.

 

I am reluctantly getting rid of it because my partner is pregnant and its just not practical.

They have paddles, and those and MINI Autos are the only ones i have ever liked using the paddles on, never use them on the Twinchargers.

I only drive autos and had Jimny Autos, and like RWD, the GT86 / BRZ was just right i thought with the power, only issue was the Michelin Primacy and that is what my e-Corsa has on.  Launch cars had Pilot Sports on which were great with TC off, so not expecting much from the Primacy.

I have budgets on the back mate and they are great. So if you want one, I wouldn't get too stressed about the tires. They only matter if you are tracking it and wanting to put in some good times rather than enjoy the drive

I was trying them in Scotland in winter and as much as i like nipping on i also like to keep the back end on my side of the road, 

the Primacy were not up to both nipping on and doing that in Auto form.

The 86/BRZ community is not great either. Full of arse holes. 

 

Yeah, I get you on that, but I just drive carefully on icy roads. Regardless, its a fun car. Would definitely recommend if you can handle the limitations for backseats and boot space. Not horrendous on fuel either, big gains to be had for FI, but will set you back a few thousand.

A twincharger is fine in winter, as in the cold / wet / snow, just the right tyres needed.

But that applies in Summer as well.

OEM tyres are 205/40 R 17, if 215/40 R 17 are fitted no issue, or even 205/45 R 17.

 

Have fun trying the car.

Had a look at it. 

 

Its very clean inside and out, bodywork is very good given its age. No rust anywhere either.

 

It wants a service and I couldn't find the sticker you mentioned in the spare tire well. Going to check the oil level when its cooled a bit. Test drive seemed good to me. No stuttering or misfiring at all, gearbox seemed responsive to me too. 

 

I can't see anything that puts me off, but could be wrong?

Looks great. also like the green key fob👍

Oil is full and looks a good colour. Gonna go for it.

It's THE only colour imo ( but I'm biased it's the same as mine)

http://skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions

 

If '34F7' did happen to be outstanding i would leave it not done if the dsg behaves as it should.

It might have been done and not put on the system.

 

The Engine Oil level should be checked at 'Normal Operating Temperature', not when just warm. (Skoda said warm, VW,SEAT, Audi said Hot.)

Obviously you should check and know where that correct level when At normal Operating Temperature is when cooled /cold.

Then you know before setting off that their is enough oil and no drop in the level.

Edited 1 June, 20206 yr by Roottootemblowinootsoot

Talking about oil I decided to go for a blast down the A1 shake off a few cobwebs and noticed the oil temperature went up to 91c and was wondering if there is a normal working temp