Hi

 

I have a MK2 fabia, 2008, 1.4 BXW engine.

 

I'm going to be replacing my strut mounts as they are creaking and making a popping sound.

 

I've got all the parts ordered now including all replacement nuts and bolts.

 

But I can't seem to find a replacement top strut mount nut.

 

Does anyone know the part number of size details of the nut?

 

Also has anyone reused this nut?

 

Thanks for any help 

Franky 

People are generally replacing shocks and/or springs if they go into that area on cars of this age (unless previously replaced) and the new non-genuine shocks generally come with nuts, but I guess you are meaning item 5 here?:

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2008-608/4/411-411000/ 

N  10401801

 

I'm sure lots of people do re-use them without disaster following, but it's not recommended.

Thanks wino that a great help.

 

I picked the mounts up this morning from euro car parts but there was no nut with it. I'll have a look on eBay for a nut I've found the bottom bolt and nut and the 3 fixing nuts for the mount but struggled finding the nut.

 

It's a handy website is that for finding part numbers and stuff.

 

If It came down to it I probably would have reused it but if I can get a new nut I might as well replace it.

 

I can't wait to swap the mounts over it creaks like mad haha 

 

Thanks

Again 

Yeah, the mounts don't come with nuts, it's new shocks that tend to. 

1 hour ago, Wino said:

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2008-608/4/411-411000/ 

N  10401801

 

That nut uses an M14x1.5 thread. That is the same thread that Fabia wheel bolts use.

 

If you take a look at the wikipedia entry on ISO metric screw threads, you will see that the 1.5mm thread pitch is a fine thread for an M14 diameter. You will also see on the wikipedia entry, that M14 threads take a 21mm spanner if the nut or bolt with that thread is made to the ISO specification.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread

 

wheel bolt

M14X1,5X27

 

http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/FAB/year/2008/drive_standart/453/hg_ug/601/subcategory/601010/part_id/2543667/lang/e

 

Edited 24 September, 20205 yr by Carlston

I seem to remember genuine nuts of that part number take a 22 mm spanner, but most aftermarket ones supplied with shocks tend to be 21mm (or it might be the other way round!).  @Franky89 have you done this job before? Do you know the shocks to be in good condition or recent? Checked the springs for missing bits at top or bottom? 

 

Edited 24 September, 20205 yr by Wino

I've ordered some from eBay they say they are genuine OE but weather they are or not I'll see. I've tried a spark plug socket on it and that fits so I might try that with a long Allen key socket but I've got some swan neck spanners if not.

 

I changed the spring on my girlfriends fiesta a couple last year but I know each car is different. I've got the work shop manual section printed off ready. Everything else looks fine the springs were new on the car when I got it (I'm guessing that's what the previous owner thought it was) the shocks seem fine just surface rust on the frame and the bumper and dust covers all seem good.  

Maybe make sure that you are prepared to remove the RHS drive shaft nut as that side's lower arm can not usually get forced down far enough to get the strut out of its socket in the hub carrier, sometimes the locking element  breaks when you remove this nut, and sometimes it doesn't, so safer to buy in a new nut for that.

19 hours ago, Franky89 said:

I've ordered some from eBay they say they are genuine OE but weather they are or not I'll see. I've tried a spark plug socket on it and that fits so I might try that with a long Allen key socket but I've got some swan neck spanners if not.

 

I changed the spring on my girlfriends fiesta a couple last year but I know each car is different. I've got the work shop manual section printed off ready. Everything else looks fine the springs were new on the car when I got it (I'm guessing that's what the previous owner thought it was) the shocks seem fine just surface rust on the frame and the bumper and dust covers all seem good.  

 

21mm swan neck nd the nut is reusable.

 

13 hours ago, rum4mo said:

Maybe make sure that you are prepared to remove the RHS drive shaft nut as that side's lower arm can not usually get forced down far enough to get the strut out of its socket in the hub carrier, sometimes the locking element  breaks when you remove this nut, and sometimes it doesn't, so safer to buy in a new nut for that.

 

 

Not sure how similar his is to my mk2 in terms of drive shaft and the also mk1, You can squeeze the strut out without touching the drive shaft if you have a spare jack handy.

Any cars with sports suspension probably get away without removing the RHS drive shaft as the springs will be shorter. A car with a BXW engine would normally have normal suspension.

 

Though I don't mind being wrong as that would mean when I need to work on the front suspension of my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, I would need to bother about doing that part of the job, from memory, I probably just dived in and removed the RHS drive shaft from the late 2009 Ibiza with the BXW because I needed to do that on my wife's old 2002 Polo with the BBY engine.

 

I'd think that if you had and used very slim/compact/expensive spring compressors, you could shorten the spring enough before taking the strut off and out of the hub carrier.

 

I seem to remember that the (factory fitted) top nut is just a "crushed" nut, so a bit of repeat crushing it would turn it back into a lock nut again.

Edited 25 September, 20205 yr by rum4mo
added (factory fitted)

Looking at my manual it's showing that you have to separate the drive shaft to get the strut out.

 

I've ordered 2 new hub nuts from eBay.

 

I was hoping I wouldn't of had too but then again it might be easier to strip the steering knuckle apart from the strut and then undo the 3 bolts at the top and take it out attached to the knuckle.

 

It's really rusted at the bottom so it will probably save some time but while it's out I can give it a good scrub with a wire brush and change the lower nut and bolt and coat it on grease so it will be easier next time in case I ever need to change the strut it's self.

 

Hopefully I will get a day next week where it doesn't rain

You should not have to remove the drive shaft on the LHS as that is the side that the gearbox is on and that shaft is shorter and so does not limit the downwards movement of the lower wishbone so much, ie the strut should be out of the hub carrier before the downward movement of the lower wishbone gets limited.

 

Something to make life a bit easier in the future if you think that you might revisit this area is, a tool to expand the hub carrier strut "socket", messing around with small chisels/re-shaped hex keys etc just made expanding the hub carrier "socket" a messy job, before I did the second side, I made sure that I had bought a hub (carrier) expander tool.

Thanks I decided to strip the whole area out on both sides and give it a good service in that area.

 

Now I've ran into a another issue. I originally had a creaking noise when I turn the wheel which I assumed was the strut mounts. Only to find out the creaking was still there after I changed them along with new shocks. I reused the same spring and ive just got to the bottom of the creak it was the spring rubbing against the inner arch so I'm guessing the previous owner had the wrong spring fitted and now it's all fitted back on my car :s 

Edited 11 October, 20205 yr by Franky89

As you took everything off both sides, did you not check and compare the springs, especially the top and bottom coils, if you had it might have saved you some problems later on. You might have a broken spring.

When I got the car last year it had brand new springs on so I only replaced the shock and mount and moved the spring over, I put it on the same way as I took it off the old shock, I checked the ends and they was still coated in paint so there was no broken ends. It did look abit odd shaped when I put them and the same when I was taking them off. I noticed the flattest end of the spring was at the top so I was assuming it was the right way up. It's either upside down or the wrong spring for the car, I guess I'll live and learn. This it what it looked like on the old shock 

And it was the same spring on the new shock. It definitely looks odd. I thought it might have balanced itself when when it's got weight on it but nope.

Yes, the spring looks canted over in both pictures, I've forgotten what the underside of the top bearing looks like on that version of strut, ie how it centralises the top coil of the spring wrt the damper axis.

 

Edit:- from memory the lower face of the top bearing has a reduced diameter that fits inside the top coil, maybe the lower coil has a bit missing, just a guess, if you look up a spring supplier's website there will be a diagram of how these springs are shaped especially at both ends and how the end of the top coil "sits" relative the the same part on the bottom coil - which should be located within the damper lower spring seat and maybe even a separate guide lug.

Edited 11 October, 20205 yr by rum4mo

Yeah it's definitely off centre. I've seen photos on eBay of the full struts from the scrap yards and the spring looks to be sat a lot more comfy than this one.

 

I've just seen some Monroe springs for £29 each hopefully luckily it will be sorted then.

Good, it will be interesting to see what these Monroe springs look like when compared to what you have fitted.

Yeah hopefully they will be sat well