right well, just waiting for the parts to arrive, just had an email saying some parts was unfortunately out of stock so an extra 4 days, hopefully she gets me to work until its done, might need some new plugs for the time being, I'm guessing this thing as been a slow progression but got worse so what's a few more weeks of using her.

 

the nearest engine shop to me is Bromsgrove engine services, he reckons £70, and says he can get it back to me the next day if I drop it down in the morning. so.. going to go for it, they was on car S.O.S according to there website..

Car S.O.S. asked us to rebuild their engine for the restoration of a classic Mini Cooper.

 

Sounds promising... only issue is getting it there with no car.. but have to cross that bridge when I get to it

 

Car S.O.S

Series 4 episode 9 episode aired on More4 on January 11^th 2017 and can be viewed online. (sorry I cant seem to find it for free, its on disney+)

if anyones interested

Edited 25 November, 20205 yr by MinkyMike

I'm very hopeful

if this doesn't work I'm going  to have to get a another car, as I need to get to work and I've got no where to keep this one.. if its not running.. :/  

which is a damn shame its been a good car.

Edited 25 November, 20205 yr by MinkyMike

Of course it'll work, stop with the superstition already, it hasn't blown from overheating so there's no damage, the gasket just needs replacing.

28 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Of course it'll work, stop with the superstition already, it hasn't blown from overheating so there's no damage, the gasket just needs replacing.

Yeah mate just dobting my capabilities at repairing it.. but I'll do my best 

It's easy, just follow the magic footprints, don't rush and don't cut corners.

its mad I'm a computer specialist (been building gaming pc's since I was 8), but a class 1 truck driver(everyday job), not a car specialist, but I strive to repair what I can sometimes I feel like I take off more then I can chew but up to now I've always come up good.

and i  must admit the cyberpunk 2077 hype is killing me right now ;)) those days i took off to play cyberpunk.. instead i will be trying to repair my car :).. so unfair hehe

11 hours ago, MinkyMike said:

you don't know if there's a step by step guide knocking around on these forums of what to take off in what order? I don't want to take more off then I need to, I've been looking on YouTube there are a few videos on the not great quality and there all foreign as usual :))

 

like it seems unhook power, drop the coolant, remove the thermostat from the back on head, then do the injectors all come off in one? then inlet, then exhaust? then obviously head

 

You don't need to disturb the injectors, you just remove their wiring harness. You just push the manifolds back with the injectors still fitted. You can see mine here....

 

 

 

Edited 25 November, 20205 yr by TMB

I was reading through Haynes manual about the procedure and it suggests that the inlet and exhaust manifolds can be left on by disconnecting the exhaust but makes it a bit heavy and awkward to manhandle out the engine bay. Thinking about it though I think it would be easier and not much more time to just take them off.

Yeah be easier to just remove them I reckon. 

Like for doing the cam chain Haynes tells you to take all the oil pump off when you don't need to 

2 minutes ago, MinkyMike said:

Like for doing the cam chain Haynes tells you to take all the oil pump off when you don't need to 

Yeah I've just done the timing chain on my 1.4 8v and did remove the pickup and oil pump. I assumed that the cover would not come off the timing chain or the sprockets would be obstructed with it in situ. Did you leave it on when you did it?

Yeah it I left it all on, only because I saw someone doing it on a YouTube video or I would of took it off following the Haynes it makes it more work and the possibility of messing something else up .. there's just enough room to slide it all out 

2 hours ago, MinkyMike said:

Yeah it I left it all on, only because I saw someone doing it on a YouTube video or I would of took it off following the Haynes it makes it more work and the possibility of messing something else up .. there's just enough room to slide it all out 

 

You're a better technician than you think you are, the Dunning-Kruger effect works in reverse for smart people, unfortunately we get far more of the other sort on here.

It's started to make a ticking noise now, Mainly on idle, but its intermittent, or more noisy then not, I've never heard this before (it's actually quite embarrassing when pulling up next to people), It's not the timing chain, and its had a brand new water pump, It was fine for about 3 weeks no noise, so maybe its something to do with the misfire! god knowns, I'll try upload a video of it, but yeah, I'm just waiting on the parts to arrive, and my next holiday off work on the 10th of dec to get this head done, and ill get the engine rebuilders to check all the valves and springs... seems like one thing after another with this car, fix something, then something else goes, its knocking when turning as well so think the left drive shaft is on its way out! 

 

(further update, I'm hoping when the stem seals are replaced this could sort this problem?)

Edited 27 November, 20205 yr by MinkyMike

well the head gasket set and bolts as just arrived, there's no washers in with the head bolts,  did you reuse your old washers TMB? Thanks Again

 

also I've just watched this

this guy is putting copper grease on the head bolt threads. I'm guessing you don't need to do that, and I can safely skip it

heh, he also taps the holes which I wont be doing.

Edited 27 November, 20205 yr by MinkyMike

Clean the threads on the bolts and lightly oil them before reusing.

Mine is a bit rattly after doing timing chain but it's coming from the gearbox which I think is the input Shaft bearing but don't think it's bad enough to worry about at this stage. Car has only done 37k. The car is not in daily use as yet and I am tempted to do the head gasket just because have a suspicion coolant may be leaking into combustion chambers and looks like the tools needed to test are as much as the parts to change it. From what i can gather my car does not have the temac gasket so will likely go at some point if it hasnt already. Its a 2003 and from what i can gather has spent a lot of its life stood. Looks like a fairly straight forward procedure, easier than the chain I have just done.

Agreed mate although my input bearing is doing the same upon pushing the clutch in you can hear this noise disappear, but so called tappety noise is still there at idle but disappears as you rev then car and almost always comes back when it goes back to idle..

Edited 27 November, 20205 yr by MinkyMike

Yeah I bought the car for a decent price but it has had every single common fault in the book. Not expensive or difficult to work on just time consuming and frustrating at this time of year with limited daylight freezing temperatures and no garage.

3 hours ago, MinkyMike said:

did you reuse your old washers TMB?

 

Yep, you don't get washers with the new bolts. Just reuse them.

4 hours ago, MinkyMike said:

(further update, I'm hoping when the stem seals are replaced this could sort this problem?)

 

Stem seals won't make any difference to any tapping from the valves. You might have a dodgy lifter or injector.

Edited 27 November, 20205 yr by TMB

3 hours ago, MinkyMike said:

seems like one thing after another with this car, fix something, then something else goes

 

Cars are all like that unless you get something a lot newer.

3 hours ago, MinkyMike said:

this guy is putting copper grease on the head bolt threads

 

Skoda say to very lightly oil the threads. Make sure there's no liquid in any of the bolt holes so there's no risk of cracking the block.