Legend, thank you 👍

Quick update: Started with the front door midbass replacement.

 

I guess when having Canton, the middriver is just hooked up in same wiring as the midbass driver (but with a high pass /low pass filter on it).

1. remove handle gentile starting at bottom with a wig, work upwards, dont be too afraid using force

2. turn at the bottom of the panel the hexagon head

3. remove screw behind small plastic clip at side of panel

4. remove the 2 bolts behind door handle

5. work with a wig unclipping the white clips (some will stay on the door, you have to remove the later and put back on panel before mounting again).

6. when all clips are loose, use gentile force to move panel upwards

7. undo all cable connectors, can be some work

8. dismantle the doorhandle cable

Finish

• before applying sound deadening, degrease the panel work VERY well, at bottom they use Vaseline against corrosion protection, avoid rubbing it out
• Apply sound deadening (for now I did not take out the complete plastic panel with the window mechanism, the doors already are having great structure).
• Apply foam deadening behind speaker
• mounted the speaker adapters for 16.5cm midbass drivers
• mounted the speakers and added foam arround the speaker
• Apply sound deadening at the panel (all kinds can be used, but I prefer to first listen to rattles and hear what I should add and where.
• I blocked off the original midrange places with sound deadener to avoid it having it work as a leakage
• Put back the panel

Rear panels:

 

1. remove handle gentile starting at bottom with a wig, work upwards, dont be too afraid using force

2. turn at the bottom of the panel the hexagon head

3. remove the 2 bolts behind door handle

4. If possible (can be done later), remove the electrical window panel, remove the switch from it

5. work with a wig unclipping the white clips (some will stay on the door, you have to remove the later and put back on panel before mounting again).

6. when all clips are loose, use gentile force to move panel upwards

7. undo all cable connectors, can be some work

8. dismantle the door handle cable

9. take of panel

 

• before applying sound deadening, degrease the panel work VERY well, at bottom they use Vaseline against corrosion protection, avoid rubbing it out
• Apply sound deadening (for now I did not take out the complete plastic panel with the window mechanism, the doors already are having great structure).
• Apply foam deadening behind speaker
• mounted the speaker adapters for 16.5cm midbass drivers
• mounted the speakers and added foam arround the speaker
• Apply sound deadening at the panel (all kinds can be used, but I prefer to first listen to rattles and hear what I should add and where.
• Remove the original tweeters by drilling the 3 glued joints
• Glue in the new tweeter
• Place and wire the passive filter
• Put back the panel

 

 

 

 

I want to add that in the standard sound system there is 1 dashspeaker.

I took it out yesterday as it messes up the sound imaging.

However, it immidiately gives SOS errror as this speaker is linked to that functionalilty.

I have now sound deadened the panel, so you can not year that speaker so much anymore, but will try to replace the speaker with a resistor and lets see if it tricks the system.

Very cool, thanks!

 

So if stock wiring is to be used, there`s no need of 9 channel DSP amp as the tweeter and mid would share the same channel. And the mid is mounted so much to the rear and out of axis to the T-W...No wonder the Canton has disappointed enough people. I think for this car a classic active 2-way would be the better go.

 

On the center channel, you can also put a small cap, 0.1uF would be enough, to tame it. It will act like a first order electrical crossover at a high enough frequency. A resistor is also an option but has to be a 50W one and car may notice no inductive load (no idea how the failure check works) and consider it a short.

12 hours ago, MP1983 said:

Very cool, thanks!

 

So if stock wiring is to be used, there`s no need of 9 channel DSP amp as the tweeter and mid would share the same channel. And the mid is mounted so much to the rear and out of axis to the T-W...No wonder the Canton has disappointed enough people. I think for this car a classic active 2-way would be the better go.

 

On the center channel, you can also put a small cap, 0.1uF would be enough, to tame it. It will act like a first order electrical crossover at a high enough frequency. A resistor is also an option but has to be a 50W one and car may notice no inductive load (no idea how the failure check works) and consider it a short.

Luckily you can catch the tweeter cabling at the amplifier location. So that can be used👌🏻

 

For the center, i will try a 22ohm 10W resistor. Lets see if it works😄

 

Ps. I will place my new tweeters still off axis. I dont want to put them too much in my field on the road. 

11 hours ago, DutchVRS said:

Luckily you can catch the tweeter cabling at the amplifier location. So that can be used👌🏻

 

For the center, i will try a 22ohm 10W resistor. Lets see if it works😄

 

Ps. I will place my new tweeters still off axis. I dont want to put them too much in my field on the road. 

Yes but its a single wire for a mid that is placed in the mid x-axis of the door, pretty useless in my opinion.

 

For the center, the fault detection circuit should be some current sensing - if it doesn`t work with the 22R you may need to get close to original voice coil DCR. As the current across the resistor will increase, a heatsinked 50W one could work. The most bizzare approach would be to cut the cone and leave the coil there

 

Are you putting them in the A-pilar? I saw a few cars in a mall (new Octavia seems popular here) and all had mesh grille on the A-pillar, as well as next to the mirror. Weird design.

I think the only reason Canton has been disappointing people is the lack of deep bass. That's all anyone seems to care about in car audio these days. But of course the audio could be improved in the same budget, if the engineers cared about it. The woofers in the doors should have been 6.5 inch and the sub could easily fit in a huge box on the side of the boot, enough space for a 8-10 inch without having to sit in the wheel. 

Edited 9 January, 20224 yr by zetzet

2 hours ago, zetzet said:

The woofers in the doors should have been 6.5 inch and the sub could easily fit in a huge box on the side of the boot, enough space for a 8-10 inch without having to sit in the wheel. 

In my experience putting large drives in the doors solves one problem and creates another, bigger problem. 6.5" have a lot of energy and that will make your doors and especially door panels rattle. The rattling will make the impedance of the driver look hell to the amplifier changing the frequency response, crossover and etc. all the time. Moreover the door panel vibration will have a sound of its own. I believe this led the sound engineers working on BMW and Mercedes cars to go for 4" in the doors and put the subs under the seats. Larger drivers also beam more and if they`re in your feet, not the best approach as a typical 6.5" starts to beam at around 2Khz and I see tons of crossovers of ready made 2-way compos at 4-5Khz...

3 hours ago, MP1983 said:

In my experience putting large drives in the doors solves one problem and creates another, bigger problem. 6.5" have a lot of energy and that will make your doors and especially door panels rattle. The rattling will make the impedance of the driver look hell to the amplifier changing the frequency response, crossover and etc. all the time. Moreover the door panel vibration will have a sound of its own. I believe this led the sound engineers working on BMW and Mercedes cars to go for 4" in the doors and put the subs under the seats. Larger drivers also beam more and if they`re in your feet, not the best approach as a typical 6.5" starts to beam at around 2Khz and I see tons of crossovers of ready made 2-way compos at 4-5Khz...

Okay, then keep the smaller drivers in the doors, but the bigger subwoofer would definitely work and fit in the boot, the spare wheel one only exists because it can be the same one in 80% of VAG cars that way. Cost cutting.

 

6 hours ago, zetzet said:

Okay, then keep the smaller drivers in the doors, but the bigger subwoofer would definitely work and fit in the boot, the spare wheel one only exists because it can be the same one in 80% of VAG cars that way. Cost cutting.

 

Its not all about the size. Mk7.5 Golf has 5.25" subwoofer in the trunk. Its much punchier than what Octavia has, even if its the same size. 

I'm glad that even in hybrid models they still managed to squeeze the subwoofer in. Earlier models could no have better audio since batteries etc take too much space. For most of our needs. perhaps a 6.5" sub would be nice on the side of trunk. Bigger ones could easily start to make no sense in Octavia

Problem is, when you have smaller drivers in the doors the crossover to the subwoofer has to be higher so the sub fills in where the smaller drivers would struggle. Our brain can become a big issue in this as the higher the crossover point the greater its sensing would be that the sound is coming from somewhere else and not the door. Indeed, for drivers placed just 80cm away of each other a max frequency of 90Hz is somewhere at the maximum you could do - imagine a sub 2m behind...This is why BMW go their subs under the seats - solves a ton of issues but requires a very specific driver to work in this tiny sealed enclosure and lots of DSP support.

 

If you`re unhappy with the stock 6.5" - you can try a Tang Band W6-1139SIF - it can work well in a very small sealed enclosure and will very likely outperform the stock sub by a large margin. Its sensitive around 86db at 2.83V so may need some boost.

Quick update.

Need to do some minor adjustments and allignment but almost ready with the top panel for carbon 👌🏻

hi @DutchVRS, can you please tell up how you connected the amplifier and the DSP to HU ? did you kept original canton amplifier under the seat and connect to it ? or used the special quad lock to connect directly to HU ? if so, did you get any errors? removing the original canton amplifier under the driver seat gives no error messages? thanks!

On 16/01/2022 at 15:59, DutchVRS said:

Quick update.

Need to do some minor adjustments and allignment but almost ready with the top panel for carbon 👌🏻

Hi! Can i please ask where you did pull the cables through to the firewall to the battery?

Also a question - how big of a midrange do you think can fit in the factory location (the grille next to the door handle) - as diameter and depth, roughly? Many thanks!

 

PS: I finally understood what it was like during communism - father paid for a Lada Samara and waited years (however he never got it :D).

Edited 22 January, 20224 yr by MP1983

On 06/03/2021 at 22:37, The Big Mac said:

Its very strange because my new cars emissions are higher then the old one yet the road tax is less.. €390 on old car new car is €280...the new vrs is a complete different animal...with the mk3.5 i felt like i needed to trash it all the time ...mk4 feel like I want to cruise now the boys in work said it because I'm getting older...they maybe right !!!...I liked my red 2017 vrs but I'm start to really love the 2021 need more time with it to give true impression cheers !!!

Hi

im picking up my new RS on Friday in Dublin and I was told if I specced it wit the RS interior pack it comes with the canton stereo and electric tailgate as well as the electric massage seats ?

What extras did you add to yours. Looks mint btw

2 minutes ago, RsDub said:

Hi

im picking up my new RS on Friday in Dublin and I was told if I specced it wit the RS interior pack it comes with the canton stereo and electric tailgate as well as the electric massage seats ?

What extras did you add to yours. Looks mint btw

Sure you can't wait for new car...I always spec canton in my cars but it was not an option also electric tailgate was not possible to select...I did spec dynamic chassis control...electric alcantara seats...phone wireless charger....front and rear parking sensors...just have software updates done all seams better...getting new boot bump stops fitted tomorrow boot rattled from day 1...despite the glitches i love the car...best of luck with yours cheers

Same as I added, dealer must have been telling me porkies on the canton and electric tailgate.. will have to negotiate a big discount if they ain’t on it 😉😉

58 minutes ago, RsDub said:

Same as I added, dealer must have been telling me porkies on the canton and electric tailgate.. will have to negotiate a big discount if they ain’t on it 😉😉

They were both standard or options all over Europe and GB but because of emissions in ireland and the extra drain on the battery they were not available in ireland but that might have changed since I got mine...are you purchasing from a skoda dealer they are normally well informed...as you can see i changed mine a little since getting it ...maxton kit and a few badges added 👌 

Looks great in the blue, how are you finding it? It’s my first Skoda RS, test drove a few A4s and 320d but after having the RS for a few days there was no comparison.

29 minutes ago, RsDub said:

Looks great in the blue, how are you finding it? It’s my first Skoda RS, test drove a few A4s and 320d but after having the RS for a few days there was no comparison.

Its my 4th VRS best value on the market...I've had each Mk and they just get better with each new model 👍

Ah that’s great news, was so impressed the few days I had the demo…

 

On 21/01/2022 at 15:04, mats1969 said:

Hi! Can i please ask where you did pull the cables through to the firewall to the battery?

Its behind the breaking peddle, but its best to remove battery, to have easy access from engine comparment.